How to make a chimney for a sauna stove. Do-it-yourself chimney for a bath: we make a chimney from a pipe

Before proceeding with the installation, learn how to properly install the chimney pipe in the bath with your own hands. The process largely depends on how competently you can choose the design, based on the parameters of the furnace and the volume of the steam room.

In addition, it is necessary to consciously approach the choice of material, set of elements and installation method. And also in this article we will talk about the main design features of chimney systems, and the problems that may arise with improper installation.

Design features of a chimney for a steam room

1. The chimney is a vertical structure mounted inside the bathhouse or on the facade of the building. Its main task is to remove the combustion products of the fuel at a speed sufficient to maintain natural draft in the furnace.
2. Properly designed design provides quick heating of the bath, maintaining the necessary microclimate in the steam room and economical fuel consumption.
3. The most common flue duct problems are: Extremely strong draft, which will cause the fuel to burn out quickly without proper heating of the steam room. Too weak traction. An inadequate amount of oxygen enters the furnace, as a result of which the combustion process is interrupted and the thermal conductivity of the furnace decreases.
4. Proper installation of the chimney is the guarantor of your own safety and the longest possible service life.

The choice of material for the chimney in the bath

A wide range of raw materials for the production of smoke exhaust structures is presented on the market, we will briefly name each of them.

It has a low cost and ease of installation, however, due to the porous structure, it can accumulate condensate.

Black metal:

It conducts heat very well and heats up quickly, but it does not resist corrosion. It has a large mass, which complicates the installation process and requires the construction of a foundation.

brick chimney:

The model is quite expensive and difficult to install, although its appearance is very pleasant. If not sleeved inside, the structure becomes clogged with soot, succumbs to condensation, becomes damp, and subsequently cracks and leaks carbon monoxide.

Ceramic chimneys:

Due to its strength, ceramics withstand high temperatures, are durable and can be used with any type of boiler. However, the installation of such a chimney is very expensive, and the design itself is of low maintainability. Therefore, only a qualified master should be engaged in the installation, and the owners will have to take care of this ventilation system.

Stainless steel:

Most bath complexes - home or commercial - use this option. This is due to the excellent resistance to atmospheric phenomena, soot does not actually accumulate, and the installation will last for many years. The appearance is well suited for any exterior of the bath, the shiny surface is pleasing to the eye. In addition, this design is quite easy to maintain.

A glass smoke channel is a good choice, as this material has minimal inertness, is resistant to moisture and corrosion. The constant increase in the cost of installation of this design is due to the complexity of the process and the high cost of refractory glass in general. Therefore, such chimneys are the most expensive systems today, although the cost is fully justified by the merits of this option.

What pipes are used

You need to know that the probability of using the bathhouse without a threat to your health depends on how the chimney of the sauna stove is installed.

The chimney installation scheme comes in two configurations: internal and external. Depending on this, the elements of the chimney are selected.

Mounting types

Installation can take place on brackets through the wall or in a straight line through the roof.

In the first case, the entire system is carried out into the wall, and then rises, adjoining the bath, but not passing through it. It looks more aesthetically pleasing, while there are the following advantages:

• the free space of the steam room is not used;
• there is no risk of getting burned on steel or stone;
• less chance of a fire;
• easier - no need to make a hole through the entire attic.
• cases of smoke are easier to detect, as well as track the general condition.

But at the same time:

• heat losses increase, since in fact immediately the steam gets outside;
• the installation itself is more difficult due to the need to comply with the dimensions of the docking of the hole in the wall and parts of the product;
• heating of the pipe is greater due to the fact that gases escape in a horizontal direction. With this arrangement, the resistance of flue gases increases when moving along the channel;
• in terms of the number of elements, this option is 10% more expensive than the usual one.

When installing flue systems in a straight line through the roof, the chimney is straight, without bends, it departs from the boiler and goes up, where it crosses the ceiling and exits from the back of the roof. The advantages of such a connection:

1. Stable draft due to the location of the chimney closer to the roof ridge.
2. The condensate collector is kept warm so that its cleaning pocket is dry and clean. This extends the service life.
3. Cold bridges are not formed in the walls, thermal insulation is not disturbed.
4. The stability of the chimney channel is higher due to fastenings to the roof. The fasteners themselves can be chosen cheaper than for the option on the facade.
5. The aesthetics of the structure is not spoiled by side smoke outlets.
6. On the street there is only a small part of the structure, which deteriorates over time from snow and rain. You can inspect and clean most of it without leaving the building.
7. You can use non-insulated parts of the chimney that are inside the bath.
8. This option is easier and cheaper to install by 10% than when outputting through the wall.
9. Flue gases go up, there is no obstacle for their exit. Heating is less than with a horizontal connection, since the resistance to smoke flows is minimal.

At the same time, there are also weaknesses:

1. The probability of "missing" the occurrence of a fire is higher, since smoke occurs in the ceilings that are located in the attic and on the roof, and they are simply not visible until the fire appears.
2. Heat loss through the roof. Tightness is restored during the arrangement of waterproofing before coating.
3. Reducing the usable area, since, according to safety requirements, there should be nothing around the chimney for the bath.
4. An increase in the cost of changing the roof and ceiling of the steam room, in particular, after finishing the fine finish.
5. If the integrity of the smoke exhaust structure is damaged, the bath smokes.
6. Condensation drips and accumulated soot spoil the appearance of the roof.
7. Possible burns from heated parts in emergency situations.

When deciding on the installation method, the following nuances must be taken into account:

• the dimensions of the building - if very small, then it is logical to make a remote structure;
• a steam room is being built from scratch or in an old room - in the first case, you can immediately think about the issue of insulation;
• Do you need to heat adjacent rooms?

External placement

The external device of the smoke channel is more expensive and difficult to install. This is due to the increased requirements for compliance with the dimensions of the docking of the hole in the wall and parts of the product. For outdoor installation, double-walled chimneys are required to prevent condensation and fire. It is the external structures that are the least flammable, since the smoke is instantly directed outside, and does not circulate through the pipe located in the building. The advantage of such a system is the absence of the need to make a hole in the ceiling and roof and save internal space. This minimizes the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Internal placement

The main advantage of the internal location of the chimney is the easy provision of draft in the chimney structure, which is achieved by the vertical direction of the flue gases. In this design, the main part will be located in the inner part of the building, which allows the bath room to heat up much faster. However, from the point of view of fire safety, this design is more dangerous, since it is much more difficult to notice smoke in the ceiling or in the attic.

Is it possible to install a sandwich chimney in the bath with your own hands

The use of this design allows you to prevent and protect the room from possible fires. Thanks to the insulation, the heating temperature of the pipe usually does not go out.

There is a certain sequence that accompanies the correct self-assembly. Strict observance of the rules and recommendations of the manufacturer, a guarantee of uninterrupted operation of the chimney system.

What to pay attention to when installing a chimney in a bath

Below are guidelines on what to focus on first.

How to choose the size and shape of the chimney

The small size of the section will prevent the removal of fuel products in the right amount. The volumetric section, on the contrary, contributes to the movement of smoke too quickly, which will not allow the bath room to be warmed up properly. This, in turn, will increase fuel costs. You should take this point responsibly, since the result will depend on it.

Deciding on the form is simple, given the basic principle of its operation. Chimneys tend to heat up unevenly, as a result of which the smoke exits the roof surface along the central axis. It follows that the correct shape is a circle. Cylindrical structures heat the room much faster and do not require excessive financial costs.

A chimney with a rectangular cross section provokes turbulence that prevents the necessary draft. A rectangular configuration is only permissible when it comes to heaters that do not require powerful traction.

Pipe diameter

The scale is determined by the degree of power draft of the sauna stove and is located in the intermediate range from 115 to 270 (mm). Nevertheless, in order to accurately determine the diameter, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the instructions specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. If you do not have a scheme for installing a chimney for a bath with your own hands, then it will be enough to know the ratio of the cross-sectional diameters of different shapes. It looks like this:

• cylindrical - 1 to 10;
• rectangular - 1 to 1.5.

For brick chimneys, the minimum section diameter should be 140x140 mm.

The successful operation of a chimney system primarily depends on how precisely the size of the pipe is determined.

Chimney height

According to the standard, its height should be at least 5 meters. The calculation of the height of the chimney is carried out in accordance with the main technical characteristics of the materials.

The channel should be located at least half a meter above the roof ridge and in no way below its level. In this case, it is worth considering the thickness of the roofing and the angle of inclination of the roof slope. The height is selected without taking into account the chimney "umbrella".

It is necessary to study in as much detail as possible the information on how to properly make a chimney pipe in a bathhouse and all the details related to its installation, because reliability, service life, performance and, above all, your safety will depend on its quality. Any seemingly insignificant mistake can provoke irreversible consequences.

First you need to familiarize yourself with the main instructions of specialists and instructions (if available).

Preparatory stage

It is necessary to pre-protect the sections of the passage of the smoke channel through the ceilings. A step-by-step guide for this stage of installing a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands is as follows:

• Pipe preparation. It is required to fill its appearance with basalt wool.
• Next, you need to insulate the inside of the node - decide on the mounting point on the ceiling and prepare a hole of the desired shape.
• Distribute another heat-insulating layer at the interface with the ceiling and then proceed to the cutting device.
• Be sure to leave a small gap between the pass-through node and the smoke channel.

Roof work

Start this step by dismantling the roof:

• It is necessary to determine the dimensions from both the internal and external areas of the roof, taking into account the roof slope (slope).
• Cut a hole inside the roof. To do this, sheathe the openings with metal sheets from two edges, the thickness of which should be 0.5 (mm). It is necessary to make 4 holes with a size of 450 by 450 (mm), using the square section method. The scale depends largely on the adapter.
• for the passage of the chimney through the roof, a roof cutting or a master flash is used. Their main task is to seal the passage, protect against moisture ingress.

Please note: the master flash must be led under the top edge of the roof to prevent leakage. Also, pass the joint with the pipe with sealant and fix everything with roofing screws.

Passage through the wall

We invite you to familiarize yourself in more detail with two installation schemes with a detailed description.

In the case of installation of a do-it-yourself chimney for a bathhouse with a side outlet, the process is as follows:

1 mounting option

Passage through the wall, outside the bath. When choosing a chimney for a wood-burning stove in a bathhouse, it is necessary to stop at a stainless steel pipe 0.8 mm thick. We install an adapter on the furnace branch pipe (if you have a metal one) (it is the starting element when assembling for condensate), then a single-wall pipe of at least 0.5 m or a pipe heat exchanger (if you plan to have hot water in the wash room). We put a damper on the heat exchanger. We will talk about the need for a gate in a separate article.

An important point: for the passage of walls and ceilings, it is imperative to use a sandwich.

The passage section of the wall (as well as the ceiling) is the most fire hazardous in the bath, so it is necessary to seriously approach the equipment of this unit. We suggest installing a PPU (ceiling-through unit) inside the steam room, from the outside the opening is closed with a screen (stainless steel sheet). If your wall is wide, then you will need a second PPU for installation outside. Ferrum's product range includes polyurethane foam of various configurations. We will go into more detail in a separate article on this element.

It is necessary to loosely lay kaolin wool or sheets of technical mineral wool in a 5-7 cm layer in the passage unit in order to remove “excess” heat. It is not necessary to lay more cotton wool, as this can lead to overheating of the sandwich. Next, outside the bath, we attach a sandwich tee to the pipe. We install a condensate drain at the bottom of the tee. From above to the tee we fix a sandwich pipe 1.0 m in the amount of 3 pieces or more, depending on the height of the bath.

Due to the weight of double-walled chimneys, you will need to install a mounting platform and a console from below to strengthen the kit. For stability from above to the wall of the bath, we fasten the chimney with a wall clamp. The final element of the main pipe will be the head.

The next stage of work will be connecting a 75 l water tank to the heat exchanger, but we will talk about this separately.

Special instructions:

• After you have checked that all the elements of the chimney are in place, fit well on top of each other, we recommend that the joints be smeared with 150 ° silicone sealant before installation.
• During installation, all modules are mounted inside the previous element with a narrow end (through condensate).
• Do not forget that all joints of the sandwich pipe, elbow, tee and adapter must be fastened with clamps. All these elements are available in a wide range in the Ferrum line, which can be found on the website.
• The lengths of the chimney elements must be selected so that the connection does not end up inside the ceilings.
• If there is a tee in the chimney, then it must be placed on the mounting platform with fastening. The distance between the sites should be at least 5.0 m from each other.
• To pass through the ceilings, it is necessary to use the ceiling-through node.

2 mounting option

Internal localization of the chimney. In terms of the set of elements, this variant almost does not differ from the first one. Be sure to use a sandwich pipe to pass the ceiling.

An additional element for installation inside the bath is the roof cut.

Do-it-yourself manufacturing and installation of a protective (pass-through) box

1. Make 4 metal sheets in a scale of 50 by 50 (cm) with holes cut out (in the middle) according to the size of the pipe.
2. By means of a welding machine, connect existing sheets to each other or fasten them with self-tapping screws.
3. Insulate the resulting metal box with basalt wool, after which, on top of the previous layer, make a foil coating.
4. Upon completion, a pipe is inserted into the box. The box is installed in the ceiling transitions, after which it is fixed with screws.
5. Then fasten a steel sheet with a pre-cut hole for the chimney to the roof surface.

Assembly of the chimney structure

In the case when the stove is not located clearly under the ceiling opening, a knee (bend) is used. But do not abuse its quantity, because soot and fumes can accumulate inside.

A head is attached on top, which you can independently build in a simple way. But it is still recommended to purchase a ready-made version.

The outer tube is constructed as follows:

1. First, the knee is attached to the wall, and only then the main device.
2. A ready-made protective box filled with expanded clay is attached to the wall, from which the main part rises outward.
3. Then, from the outside of the room, a tee is attached to it. Each of the parts is connected in turn.

Fixing: how to properly install the chimney pipe in the bath

Upon completion of the chimney assembly, fix the tee to the mounting site and tightly compress all existing joints with clamps. A cone is put on the last pipe (sandwich), an umbrella or a deflector is put on the cone to prevent atmospheric precipitation and wind blocking of the smoke channel.

The pipe above the roof by more than 1.5 meters is reinforced with a crimp clamp for stretching.

Installation of a chimney

A window of at least 50x50 cm in size is cut through the ceiling or wall covering. In this hole, a pass-through assembly is mounted with a hole equal to the diameter of the pipe plus 3-5 mm, for free installation, which must be fixed with special metal fasteners in pre-made holes, and then fastened to the wall. Then a pipe is inserted into the protective box. From the side of the attic, fill the metal box with expanded clay. As a decorative element following the installation, you can use a stainless steel protective screen, which in turn increases fire safety

Completion of installation work

Errors when installing a chimney in a bath

• assembly by smoke, not by condensate. The most common and common mistake, which very quickly disables the pipe.
• the location of wooden floors close to the pipe in the ceiling and walls. Savings on PPU.
• the use of materials that are strictly contraindicated for use as a chimney), as some of them can cause a fire.
• insufficient height of the chimney;
• grouping several chimney structures at once into one;
• arbitrary calculation of the scale and diameter of materials.

Installing a chimney is a very serious process that requires the necessary skills, care, patience, and a responsible approach to studying information about all kinds of installation methods. If you follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly or the tips in this article, you will definitely not make mistakes in the process.

Remember that chimney repairs are often much more expensive than just installation services. It is for this reason that it is better to follow all the rules and recommendations at the design stage of the bath.

The chimney is the soul of the bath. The chimney can be safely called the "soul and heart of the bath" and this will not be an exaggeration. The quality of your future rest in the bath will largely depend on how competently and efficiently you equip it.

A well and smoothly functioning chimney is, firstly, an excellent park, and secondly, a guarantee of fire safety. The correct flue for 99 percent excludes a possibility of a smoke and pollution of the room.

Features of the construction of the chimney

Chimney types

Currently, several types of chimneys are in operation, which, in fact, are divided into two categories: root and mounted. Mounted chimneys are called chimneys, which are mounted directly on the furnace, indigenous - on the side of it. The choice of the chimney pipe will largely depend on what type of stove you are going to use when heating the bath. There is an option in which one chimney serves several stoves, but in this case the entire system must be equipped in such a way that the connecting links from the stoves to the chimney are cut at different heights at intervals of at least one meter from each other. In this case, the diameter of the chimney must correspond to the total power of all furnaces. The diameter is calculated in such a way that the smoke emitted by the operating furnace is fully ensured.

The height of the chimney mainly depends on the height of the building itself. We recommend that you immediately make sure that the gap between the roof ridge and the chimney pipe horizontally is at least one and a half meters (or more). If this distance is less, care must be taken to ensure that the level of the chimney is 50 centimeters higher than the level of the ridge. If the chimney is further from the ridge, they must be aligned vertically.

The internal chimney has a number of undeniable advantages and therefore is the most popular and sought-after option for arranging a Russian bath.

Advantages of an internal chimney

1. Convenience during work (work is carried out in an already rebuilt building).
2. Simplicity and convenience in service.
3. Sufficiently powerful traction, which is provided, in many respects, due to the verticality of the pipe.

Ideally, the chimney pipe should be vertically oriented. However, it often happens that for some reason (or a number of reasons) it is impossible to make the structure completely vertical. In this case, it is recommended to create a chimney project in such a way that the length of each of its non-vertical (diagonal) sections does not exceed one meter. Without this, it will be very difficult for you to get normal draft and prevent soot from depositing on the surfaces of the chimney - after all, hot air will rise vertically. Ideally, the use of horizontal pipe sections should be completely abandoned.

What and how to make a chimney?

Most often, Russian baths are equipped with stoves-heaters. The main options for a chimney for such a furnace are metal pipes. During the operation of such pipes, sooner or later, we are faced with their significant drawback - condensate that settles on the surfaces during cooling and flows down. As a result, the speed of kindling the furnace is reduced, in addition, a rather unpleasant odor is formed. To avoid the above situation, place the pipe in a fireproof case of thermal insulation or overlay it with bricks. The second option can be considered more preferable due to the simplicity of the work process itself, for which, by the way, you can use an inexpensive brick.

There should be no extra holes in the walls of the chimney, any hole is a guaranteed penetration of cold air from outside, cooling the smoke. It is not recommended to use large diameter pipes - this can also lead to cooling of the smoke and a decrease in its speed, the consequence of which is the formation of condensate. The thickness of the brick walls of the chimney must be at least 120 millimeters when inside the bath and at least 38 centimeters if it is located in the outer wall of the building.

It is desirable to make the inner surface of the chimney as smooth as possible. The more scratches and roughness, the worse the draft will be and the more soot can accumulate inside the chimney. Therefore, it is initially worth whitewashing the pipe and grouting it for the timely identification and elimination of possible defects.

Another popular option for arranging a chimney in a bath is a sandwich pipe. For its operation, you do not need brickwork or a case (case) made of thermal insulation, which will greatly facilitate the installation of the structure.

Fire safety

Fire safety is paramount! Arranging a chimney in the bath, do not forget about fire safety measures. It is important that there are as few docking points as possible in the pipe, and in areas where they pass through the roof and ceiling, they should not be categorically. Branch pipes should be installed in the passages between the ceilings, and a layer of non-combustible materials should be created between the chimney pipe and the ceiling (make a pipe cut). The thickness of such cutting should exceed the thickness of the ceiling. A similar layer (from thermal insulation) must also be created at the place where the pipe passes through the roof. The chimney must be located at a distance of at least 250 millimeters from unprotected rafters, battens and, in general, from combustible roofing materials. Any non-combustible layer must have a thickness of at least 120 millimeters.

From above, the chimney must be equipped with special protective equipment, in particular, a protective cap (mushroom) and a spark arrester, as well as a roof cut, which provides sealing when the pipe passes through the roof.

water tank

An important stage in the process of installing a chimney is installation of a heating water tank. There are various mounting options. For example, a tank can be attached to the wall of a pipe, in another embodiment, the pipe will pass directly through it (in this embodiment, water heating will be more efficient). The main criterion when choosing a tank is the size of your stove (direct proportionality). The best option is a stainless steel tank. When choosing a tank, it is necessary to take into account the size and diameter of the chimney pipes to ensure a tight connection between the components (good draft and optimal water temperature).

Let the bath bring you health, pleasure and good mood!

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With this material they read the same:

A comfortable microclimate in the bathhouse depends on how correctly the chimney is installed. After all, a pipe for a bath is not only the removal of carbon monoxide, but also fire safety, the health of people in the room.

The device itself can be installed with your own hands, there is nothing complicated in the process. The main thing is to prepare properly: choose the right material and follow all installation recommendations.

The choice of material for the chimney

The chimney in the steam room can be made of various materials, but it is most advisable to opt for stainless steel products. Important characteristics that allowed stainless steel chimneys to become widespread:

• High temperature resistant;
• The structural elements are lightweight, which simplifies do-it-yourself installation;
• Resistance to formation of condensate;
• Resistance to aggressive environments (various acids that make up carbon monoxide);
• Good traction due to perfectly round section;
• Absence of soot accumulations on the inner walls of the chimney;
• Easy to operate;
• Affordable cost.

Installation of asbestos-cement pipes is undesirable, as they do not comply with fire safety standards for a bath. Under the influence of high temperature, they can collapse and thereby provoke a fire in the room. It turns out dubious savings with health risks.

A ceramic chimney is a reliable and durable design that can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees, but it is not suitable for a bath. This is due to the too large weight of the device, which only a capital building can withstand.

Stainless steel is the best choice of material for a bath chimney. Reliability, durability, ease of installation with your own hands - these are its main trump cards.

Perform device isolation

Installing a stainless steel chimney with your own hands is very simple - you just have to sequentially connect the elements from the bottom up. Manufacturers of stainless steel modular systems provide a bell at the end of all component parts. It is also necessary to ensure that all elements that go outside have high-quality thermal insulation. The easiest way is to choose ready-made sandwich elements for installation outdoors, as well as in the places of passage through the roof or through the wall.

You can make insulation with your own hands. To do this, the chimney must be wrapped with a layer of basalt wool, and an outer contour made of any metal should be installed on top, the cheapest option is galvanization. Essentially, you need to make a homemade sandwich.

Properly executed thermal insulation is necessary for such purposes:

• Reducing the temperature of the outer pipe;
• Reduced risk of condensation;
• Acceleration of the process of heating the pipe;
• Increase in traction.

Organization of the passage through the roof

The most critical stage of installation is the passage through the roof. After all, cutting a hole on the roof of the steam room can disrupt the hydro and thermal insulation of the roofing pie, resulting in leaks and destruction of the rafters of the building. Properly making a passage through the roof will help following these recommendations:

1. The opening on the roof must be designed in such a way that the distance between its walls and the pipe is about 10-13 cm.
2. Make a wooden box on the roof in the place where the chimney is planned to be installed.
3. Fill the entire space that separates the chimney from the inner duct with non-combustible material. In this case, stone wool is suitable.
4. Press the waterproofing layer with crate bars.

For proper waterproofing, small gaps in the roof can be sealed with a silicone-based sealant. Larger gaps will help to close up the installation of a special element - a passage that is placed at the exit point through the roof.

The roof passage is an apron-cap, which consists of a steel base and a rubber tip.

The passage is put on the pipe and securely fixed to the roof. Too much effort when shrinking the apron on the pipe is not required, they can break the tightness of the connection and cause the roof to leak.

Not so long ago, baths were built with heating "in a black way". This means that the smoke from the stove, which heated the entire room, was removed through a small window above the entrance. The slightest malfunction, or just a forgotten window, and smoke immediately filled the entire room. In modern heating systems, a chimney for a bath is provided, which is made of brick, metal or ceramic. The products of combustion are effectively discharged outside the building, without even passing directly into the heated room. Also, when heating “on white” in the furnace, heat lasts longer, fuel materials are used more economically, and ventilation of the room improves.

The chimney is an integral part of the heating system, which works by burning fuel. Source kamin-expert.ru

Design features

Chimneys for a sauna stove are constantly being improved, a variety of materials are used in their manufacture, new technologies are emerging. Knowledge of the features of various modifications allows you to properly mount them, provide the required fire safety measures, ensure regular cleaning and replacement of component parts.

According to the configuration, chimneys are internal or external. Internal, through the wall are brought out, by means of adapters. The design allows you to save useful space in the room, eliminates the possibility of burns or ignition of internal equipment. But there is also a minus - low efficiency - a large proportion of the heat simply "leaves" into the atmosphere.

External chimneys are led directly from the stove to the outside through the ceiling and roof. The necessary shape and direction is given through a variety of fittings, and safety is ensured by the correct selection of insulation in accordance with the norms of SNiP 41-01-2003.

Single-circuit steel chimneys

For a number of reasons (the likelihood of condensation, thermal expansion), such devices are practically not used on their own, but are installed in the form of sleeves for brick pipes. The material is designed for temperatures up to 1100 degrees, it has high heat retention parameters. Chimneys are made of stainless, alloy painted or galvanized steel. Some parts are made of brass.

Source strojdvor.ru

The benefits include:

Ease of installation.

Affordable price.

Replaceable parts of the smoke extraction unit.

Slight pollution that does not require frequent cleaning of the structure.

Possibility of operation in various climatic regions.

The disadvantages include the appearance of soot on the walls, the formation of corrosive processes. The optimal material for pipes is steel, which contains at least 17% chromium with a wall thickness of up to 1.5 mm.

Double-walled stainless steel chimneys

The correct arrangement of the chimney in the bath for a wood-burning stove involves installation strictly according to specific instructions. Otherwise, the wall insulation contained inside the pipe will absorb moisture, which is fraught with negative consequences. Compared to the classic steel counterpart, the sandwich is more reliable and durable.

When buying, it is necessary to carefully measure the diameter of the working pipe so that it fits the outlet element of the furnace. An important factor is not only the steel grade, but also the type of insulation used. The best option is stone wool. Desirable density - 120 kg/cu.m. with an insulating layer thickness of at least 40 mm. Pay attention to assembly. For indoor models, it is carried out “by condensate”, and for outdoor models, taking into account the smoke output.

Source aliansgk.ru

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

It is forbidden to lay a horizontal part of the chimney with a length of more than one meter. The total height of the discharge channel should be more than five meters, which will ensure stable and good traction.

It is forbidden to work with a tool that does not have rubberized insulating surfaces. The location scheme of the structure is worked out in advance. When installing chimneys for a stove in a bath, several important rules are observed:

It is not allowed to contact the pipe with furniture, wallpaper, electrical wiring and other communications.

In the place between the ceiling and the crate, an empty space is left (more than 30 cm for uninsulated pipes and at least 15 cm if there is insulation).

Contact of the chimney and wood with the outlet channel is not allowed.

If the pipe is laid through an unheated attic space, thermal insulation is used to prevent condensation.

Do not place the chimney near combustible and flammable materials.

When planning the discharge system, the number of components is taken into account, depending on the height of the device.

Source rinnipool.ru

Installation nuances

After preparing the tool, unpacking the elements of the chimney with their calculation, the specialists proceed to the installation of the product.

All work is divided into several stages:

Perform markup with determination of the distance from the bottom of the furnace to the center of the discharge channel. This parameter is marked on the wall at the location of the firebox.

display stove width and outlet pipe axis in relation to the resulting size.

Designated contours, according to which the wall or ceiling will be disassembled, taking into account fire safety standards (a square is drawn using a tape measure, a building level and a pencil.

Disassemble designated part of the wall partition. Holes are made in the wooden crate in the corners and in the center. Sawing with an electric jigsaw according to the existing markings.

isolation cut with a special knife, removed from the wall.

wooden part protect non-combustible plates, from 30 mm thick. Cut out a round hole for the pipe outlet. A suitable flange is used as a template.

Security element fastened self-tapping screws, under which four sockets are pre-drilled. Bushings are placed between the wall and the sheet for inserting screws.

Placed on the floor screen protection, preventing sparks, heat and coals from entering.

Source banya-ili-sauna.ru

outdoor work

From the outside of the bath, the fragment to be removed is marked. Insulation is mounted at the point of passage of the pipe through the wall, taking into account the required amount of material.

The walls are measured in thickness, strips of basalt wool with foil are cut. They are installed along the prepared contour with a shiny surface inside. When laying mineral wool, a minimum of gaps between parts of the insulation is observed. The process continues until there is a hole similar to the diameter of the outlet pipe.

Video description

What are the errors when installing stoves, see the video:

Assembly

The chimney structure is assembled in parts. First, bracket fasteners, a tee and a horizontal element laid from the stove are connected. Parts are mounted in series, corrugated clamps are directed downwards. Connection points are treated with a sealant that is resistant to increased thermal stress.

Remove the drip plug, install on the bottom of the tee, fasten with a clamp, do not use sealant. The further assembly procedure consists of the following steps:

The straight part of the chimney is fixed to the tee; it will be laid through the wall ceiling.

A square flange is installed on a horizontal tube, the structure is placed in a hole on the wall.

By means of the building level, the verticality and degree of tightening of the fasteners are controlled, self-tapping screws are tightened in the sockets of the triangle brackets.

Source 36doors.ru

The flange is fixed with self-tapping screws.

They build up the structure upwards, connecting the component parts to each other with clamps and sealant.

All nuts are securely tightened as the chimney is constantly exposed to the wind.

The fold is mounted on the roof overhang using a pair of knees with a bend angle of 135 degrees.

Collect three elements, install them on the straight part, fix the upper knee with a clamp.

After mounting the straight part, a deflector and a cone are installed.

The next step is done indoors.

Mount a single-level pipe with a valve (gate). The outlet pipe of the furnace is connected to it.

Source banya-expert.com

Installation of an internal chimney

The internal chimney is similar to the external counterpart. All connections are made with clamps and sealant. Mounting differences include:

The insulation sheet is laid in its place immediately, a furnace is placed on it. A pipe with one wall or an economizer is connected to the nozzle

A gate, a water-heating tank, a smoke damper, a heater mesh are connected to the direct element.

The parts are mounted with the corrugated side down so that the inner element overlaps the wall of the lower compartment. This will protect the insulation from the ingress of drops of condensate.

An important stage in the installation of the chimney is the correct arrangement of passages through the floors and the roof.

Main stages of work

The sequence of installation of the internal chimney:

A diagram of the future chimney is marked on the ceiling.

The passage is being arranged in accordance with the standards and requirements of SNiP.

A square hole is made.

A special dividing box is put on the straight part.

About 20 millimeters of free space is left between the vertical walls and the sawn nest.

The chimney is built up with an additional vertical segment.

The box is applied to the ceiling sheathing and fixed.

In the attic around the dividing part, basalt cardboard is covered, and in the inner part - expanded clay or mineral wool.

Source uteplovdome.ru

Commissioning

The chimney must be inspected, special attention should be paid to the quality and density of the joints. Inside the structure is cleaned with a dry cloth. All unnecessary items from the pipe and firebox are removed. Trial ignition is carried out using a small amount of fuel. At this stage, the effectiveness of traction, the presence of smoke at the joints, and its retraction into the room are determined.

After testing, after a few hours, the furnace is fully heated. You should not push combustible materials used “to the eyeballs” into the furnace, this can lead to failure of the chimney and a fire. All combustible elements and partitions near the pipes must be insulated, the distance between them and the exhaust structure is at least half a meter. Visual inspection and preventive cleaning is carried out once every six months.

Video description

About the installation of a fire "fluff" in the following video:

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service installation of stoves and fireplaces. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Conclusion

A properly selected and installed chimney is a guarantee of high-quality operation of the stove in your bath. Installation is strongly recommended by professionals who will do everything quickly, and most importantly, with high quality, and will give a written guarantee for their work.

A properly arranged chimney for a sauna stove ensures comfortable use of the sauna for a long time. But the main criterion in the selection of design and materials remains safety. Therefore, the choice and installation of the chimney should be given special attention, not forgetting to consult with specialists.

Basic requirements for sauna stoves

The chimney for a sauna boiler not only removes combustion products from the room, but also ensures optimal use of fuel in the heating unit. At the same time, a properly arranged channel for the removal of furnace gases should serve as a guarantee for the safe operation of the heater. This factor is ensured not only by the correct selection of materials and the design of the chimney, but also by the organization of the infrastructure of the boiler room. It must have sufficient supply and exhaust ventilation to ensure the supply of oxygen for the combustion of the furnace and the removal of combustion products or the gas itself that has entered the room.

To remove flue gases from the bath, an external wall-mounted chimney is often built, since it does not take up space in the room and provides better fire safety

Gas boilers are the safest and cheapest in comparison with other types of thermal units. They do not give off the smell of burnt fuel and do not leave debris in the form of ash or slag.

Gas boilers are more economical and safer than thermal units using other types of fuel.

When using a gas boiler in a bath, you need to follow some recommendations:

1. If there is no gas supply from the central line, you can use fuel from cylinders. They must be placed outdoors in a specially equipped cabinet.
2. For the safe operation of the gas unit, you must use an automatic control system that will control the heating mode, as well as a gas analyzer in case of leakage.
3. The base of refractory materials for the furnace must be at least 10 centimeters larger than its external dimensions.
4. For the installation of a gas pipeline, only steel or copper pipes should be used.

How to choose a chimney for a bath

Chimneys used in heating systems can be divided into two main types according to the installation site:

1. Outdoor or wall. When using them, the pipe from the outlet pipe of the furnace is led out through the wall, and the vertical part runs along the outer main wall and is attached to it with brackets.
2. Internal. The vertical part of the chimney is removed inside the building with the intersection of the ceiling and roof. In places of passage, fireproof inserts are made, which will be discussed below.

Each of the designs has its own advantages and disadvantages.

What are chimneys

Structurally, chimneys can be divided into the following main types.

brick chimneys

These are the most ancient types of chimneys that have not lost their relevance to the present. They are laid out of ceramic bricks, the cross section can be different in size, but the shape is always square or rectangular. This is the main disadvantage of brick pipes. The combustion products move along the helix of the smoke channel, and the cross-sectional angles are stagnant zones. In them, furnace gases move at a low speed, which contributes to the settling of solid particles with the formation of soot. Features of brick chimneys:

1. The inner surface of the brick pipe is rough, and this also contributes to the formation of soot.
2. The outer part of the chimney, if there is no insulating layer on it, is exposed to moisture and wind, which leads to its destruction. Experts estimate the service life of a brick chimney at 17–20 years.
3. To improve the working conditions of a brick chimney, its sleeve is practiced with the installation of a metal or plastic pipe into the internal channel.
4. The construction of a brick pipe requires certain skills of a bricklayer, not everyone can do this work correctly with their own hands.

The construction of a brick chimney has a significant weight, so a reliable foundation is required for its installation.

The outer part of the brick chimney is exposed to moisture, sunlight and large temperature fluctuations, so it is desirable to protect it with finishing materials

Metal chimneys

For the manufacture of metal chimneys, single-layer or double-layer pipes are used. Black, galvanized or stainless steel sheet 0.4–1.2 mm thick can be used. The first of them quickly burns out, since sulfur dioxide is always present in the flue gases. Together with moisture, which is always present in the combustion products, during condensation, an aggressive substance based on sulfuric acid is formed, which destroys the pipe walls. A similar story is obtained with a galvanized pipe, because the protective layer of zinc is quickly damaged by condensate, and then everything happens in the same way as with a regular black steel pipe. The best material for a chimney is an austenitic grade stainless steel product. It is easy to distinguish when buying, using a magnet - it will not be attracted to it. If you are offered a stainless chimney, and its material reacts to a magnet, there may be no guile in this. It's just a stainless steel of a ferritic or semi-ferritic class, which is not sufficiently resistant to aggressive environments.

A high-quality stainless steel pipe has a mirror surface, along which condensate flows down, against the flow of furnace gases. At the bottom of such a channel, it is necessary to arrange a condensate collector with a tap. It needs to be cleaned periodically. The accumulation of soot on the walls of a stainless chimney is much slower.

The stainless steel chimney has smooth round walls, so soot builds up in it much more slowly.

Ceramic chimneys

Ceramic pipes are made of refractory clay in pieces of 50 centimeters. The ends of each segment are formed for a tongue-and-groove connection.

Ceramic pipes serve for a very long time, because they practically do not react to the impact of aggressive chemical elements contained in the combustion products of heating oil

Ceramic pipes are mounted inside special expanded clay concrete blocks. A hole for installing a chimney is made along their axis. The diameter of the hole in the block is 50–70 millimeters larger than the outer size of the pipe - a non-combustible heat insulator is placed in this gap, which is used as mineral or basalt wool. At the corners in the blocks there are holes for installing reinforcing bars, which strengthen the structure.

Expanded clay blocks have holes for installing chimney pipes, ventilation and reinforcement

A distinctive feature of ceramics is the high quality inner surface, which also prevents the rapid accumulation of large amounts of condensate and soot. The material is chemically passive.

The disadvantages of such chimneys include their significant weight, which implies the manufacture of a foundation and the need for a strictly vertical installation.

In some cases, asbestos-cement pipes are used for chimneys. They attract attention with their low price and manufacturability of the installation. But it is hardly possible to recommend them for a bath. At temperatures above 300 o C they are destroyed, and this process is explosive. In addition, there is evidence that the material releases asbestos fibers into the air, and this is unsafe for humans. In any case, in Europe, such pipes for chimneys are not used.

The coaxial chimney is a pipe-in-pipe design. In this case, the inner part is designed to remove flue gases, and the outer part is to supply air to the furnace furnace. The inner tube is attached to the outer tube with three longitudinal ribs. Hot flue gases move along the chimney, creating a vacuum in the furnace. Due to this, air is sucked into the furnace through the outer pipe. At the same time, it heats up, activating the combustion of gas in the boiler furnace. . Obviously, such a chimney device is only possible in closed-type gas heaters.. Thus, the boiler furnace is in no way connected with the room and the air in it always remains clean. As a result, ventilation requirements and costs are reduced.

The coaxial chimney is very convenient and easy to install, but it can only be used with closed-type boilers

Given the above data, it is obvious that stainless steel pipes will be the best choice for a chimney for a bath, especially since they are produced specifically for this purpose and are equipped with all the necessary additional elements.

On sale you can find a wide range of different adapters, elbows, diverters and fasteners for the manufacture of a stainless steel chimney in any configuration

Installing a chimney in a bath

Before proceeding with the installation of a flue duct from a gas sauna stove, you need to draw up a project and coordinate it with a qualified specialist. All comments made must be taken into account before purchasing materials.

Installation of a chimney made of stainless pipes in a bath

It begins with the installation of a furnace or boiler at its permanent location. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of fire safety regulations. Next you need:

1. Install the adapter from the boiler to the chimney. It can be vertical or horizontal, depending on the design of the heating unit.
2. Mount and fix a flat damper or an internal damper on the pipe to adjust the draft in the chimney.

   A rotary damper is usually installed at the very beginning of the chimney channel and allows you to adjust the draft during the combustion process

3. Connect the pipe of the hot water tank to the chimney pipe from the bottom and top sides. The heated gases pass through the pipe in the tank and heat the water needed for internal consumption in the bath. The water tank is attached to the building structure in accordance with the project.
4. Mount the chimney section from the upper outlet of the tank to the ceiling. In it, you need to cut an opening three times the diameter of the pipe. A sheet of asbestos 6–20 millimeters thick is attached to the ceiling of the room with the stove, and a sheet of stainless steel of the same size is mounted on top of it. The choice of material is due to the low thermal conductivity of stainless steel. The sheet must be fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 8-10 centimeters. The void in the opening from the attic is filled with insulation - basalt wool and closed from the side of the attic with the same stainless steel sheet, as well as from below, with an asbestos sheet gasket.

   An opening is cut out in the ceiling 3 times the diameter of the pipe, filled with non-combustible insulation and closed on both sides with asbestos and stainless steel plugs

5. Extend the chimney in successive sections (they are 50 and 100 centimeters long) until they reach the roofing pie. Connection of pipes to each other inside the transition through the ceilings is not allowed.
6. In the same way, you need to cut an opening in the roofing pie and the roof finish, and then bring the pipe out.
7. The height of the pipe from the burner to the upper end must be at least five meters. Its position relative to the skate is given by the following rules:
   • the excess above the roof ridge is 50 cm if the pipe is located at a distance of up to 1.5 m from it;
   • when the pipe exits at a distance of 1.5–3 m from the ridge, its upper part should be at the level of the highest point of the roof;
   • if the pipe is located at a distance of more than three meters from the junction of the slopes, its upper end should be located at the level of an imaginary line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10 o to the horizontal.

   In order for the chimney to create good traction, its head must be at a certain height, which depends on the distance to the ridge

8. The opening in the roofing cake from the outside on the pitched roof must be protected with a special apron. Its design depends on the angle of inclination of the slope and the material of the roofing.

   To eliminate the possibility of leakage, a special apron is installed at the intersection of the chimney with the roofing cake

9. Mount a protective cap or deflector on the upper end of the pipe.
10. If the roof part of the chimney has a length of more than 1 m, it must be reinforced with braces using a special clamp with three brackets.

When the pipe passes through the room where the boiler is installed, single-wall pipes of the selected design are used; insulated double-layer pipes must be installed in the attic room and on the outside or thermal insulation of single-layer pipes must be performed. To switch from single-walled pipes to double-walled (sandwich pipes), there is a special adapter.

Video: how to arrange an internal stainless steel chimney in a bath

If it is decided to arrange an external chimney, the pipe is led out through the wall of the bath, for which a hole is cut in it. The rules for fire sealing are the same as when passing through the floor. It should be borne in mind that the length of the horizontal part of the pipe should not be more than one meter. If it is possible to arrange the output at an angle of 45 degrees, this solution should be preferred.

The next steps are:

1. Install a tee, the upper branch pipe of which is the place for connecting the vertical part of the chimney, and the condensate collector is connected to the lower one.

   A tee with a condensate collector and a wall bracket are installed at the exit point of the chimney from the wall, which takes on the load of the vertical section of the structure.

2. Assemble the vertical section of the chimney to the required level. As the height of the chimney increases, brackets are attached to the wall along which it is installed and the pipe is fixed on them.

   It is advisable to install the brackets for attaching the chimney to the wall at the junction of pipe sections

3. Install a cap or deflector at the upper end of the pipe.
   

For the device of the chimney inside the boiler room, single-walled pipes are used; for output through the wall, using an adapter, double-walled sections are connected. The length of the sections is 50 and 100 cm.

Docking of individual sections of pipes is carried out "by smoke", that is, from the bottom up to specially made seats. Joints can be sealed with a special high-temperature sealant.

Video: stainless steel wall-mounted chimney in the bath

Installation of a coaxial chimney is very simple. It is necessary to punch a hole in the wall, remove and fix the pipe, and then close the opening.

Chimney insulation

The main adverse factor in the use of heating is the clogging of the chimney with soot. As a result, its cross section decreases and thrust decreases. But the main danger of soot lies in its ability to ignite and burn with the release of a very large amount of heat. At the same time, building structures of the house often light up.

Over time, a thick layer of soot forms on the walls of the chimney, due to which the passage section of the channel narrows and the draft decreases noticeably

The reason for the formation of soot is condensation on the inner walls of chimneys, where solid combustion products are deposited, which are always contained in furnace gases. Condensation is formed due to the temperature difference between the inner surface of the chimney and its outer part. Therefore, chimneys must be insulated regardless of the type of material from which they are made. Warming can be done in the following way.

1. Shelter of the chimney with a layer of rolled or slab insulation on the outer surface.

   To insulate the chimney, it can be wrapped with heat-insulating material and protected with an outer pipe of a larger diameter - you get a home-made sandwich chimney

2. Installation of a protective coating for insulation made of foil or durable foil film. On the outer part of the pipe, the coating is installed from the bottom up in layers, fastening is done with a metal tape or construction clamps.
3. Applying plaster on a brick chimney with the addition of reinforcing elements in the form of fiber shavings to the solution.

   The easiest way to insulate a brick chimney is to plaster it

4. There is no need for additional insulation of ceramic chimneys, since their installation is carried out using a casing made of expanded clay concrete and an insulating layer of basalt wool inside the block.

Features of the operation of a bath chimney

The use of gas thermal units for heating baths is the best option in terms of chimney maintenance. There are several reasons for this:

1. The temperature of the furnace gases in the chimney does not exceed 150 o C. With normal thermal insulation, especially in the case of using double-walled sandwich pipes, the temperature difference will be insignificant. The dew point (condensing temperature) is above the end of the chimney. In this case, the amount of condensate inside the pipe is reduced to a minimum.
2. There are very few particulate matter in the composition of smoke from the combustion of gaseous fuels, therefore, little soot is formed.
3. The level of automation of modern heating units allows you to set the optimal mode of fuel combustion, in which the most complete combustion occurs.
4. Sauna stoves are switched on periodically, as a rule, no more than once a week, which increases the overhaul periods.

Therefore, the main chimney maintenance operations are the timely draining of condensate from the storage tank and periodic checks of the chimney condition twice a year - before the start of the heating season and after it ends. Cleaning the chimney from soot is carried out as necessary and not after each inspection.

Wire brush - a reliable tool that allows you to clean the chimney efficiently

How to check the draft in the chimney of a sauna stove

The presence of draft in the chimney can be checked in the simplest way - by deflecting the flame of a candle or match brought to the air intake window of a gas column or stove. With normal draft, it is directed inside the unit. Before checking, the gate or damper must be fully opened.

Thrust is checked by the deflection of the flame of a match or candle.

A tissue or toilet paper strip is also good for checking the presence and direction of the thrust by the degree of its deviation from the vertical. This method can be recommended when monitoring a gas unit, it is safe even if there is gas inside the device. Draft in coaxial chimneys is not controlled, as it occurs only when the fuel is burning, and its strength depends on the intensity of combustion.

Draft adjustment in a gas oven

Signs of abnormal draft in the furnace are a change in the color of the flame and some other signs:

1. The appearance of a smell of burning or unburned gas indicates a tipping of the draft and the occurrence of a reverse movement of air in the chimney.
2. A color change to red indicates incomplete combustion of the fuel due to lack of oxygen in the air. You will need to adjust the thrust in the direction of its increase.
3. The white flame of the burner and the buzzing of air in the chimney indicate excessive draft in the chimney, which must be reduced by the position of the damper or by turning the damper of the internal regulator.

The reason for the change in draft in the chimney may be weather conditions, in particular, changes in the strength and direction of the wind. In this case, the chimney is simply clamped by the force of the wind. You can eliminate such phenomena by installing a weather vane-deflector on the head of the chimney, which rotates in the wind and, by virtue of its design, creates a rarefaction above the pipe, improving traction.

Draft can be radically increased by special electrically driven devices installed on the chimney and forcibly creating a vacuum.

Photo gallery: ways to adjust the draft in the chimney of a sauna stove

You can adjust the draft using a homemade damper The torsion stabilizer automatically adjusts the section of the chimney channel depending on the draft force Draft stabilizers can have different designsDevice for automatic draft control Automatic devices adjust traction depending on the readings of special sensors

How to clean soot from a chimney

Cleaning the layers inside the pipe is the most unpleasant, but, unfortunately, inevitable moment in the operation of heating units. For certain types of furnaces, it is produced more or less often. The least frequent cleaning is the stainless chimneys of gas stoves, but this work is done with special tools using cleaners that soften the soot layer. Cleaning agents for such chimneys must be gentle on the mirror-like inner surface of the pipes in order to preserve their most important quality - the minimum retention of condensate inside the pipes.

The chimney can be cleaned in two ways:

1. From above - in this case, ruffs or hedgehogs with a load are used. They are moved down and up the chimney, achieving complete removal of carbon deposits. In this case, the stove must be carefully covered with a wet cloth so that soot does not enter the room.
2. From below - they penetrate to the pipe through the furnace, the tool is fixed on a flexible shaft. With this method, the brushes are given rotation. Often this is done using a drive, such as an electric drill.

Cleaning is carried out mechanically from top to bottom with a soft spherical brush. If the walls of the wall pipes are heavily clogged with soot, you can dismantle them and clean each section separately.

Photo gallery: means for cleaning the chimney from soot

Do not clean stainless steel pipes with a wire brush Plastic brush cleans the chimney without damaging its surface Homemade tool from improvised materials allows you to quickly clean the chimney For independent work, you can buy a ready-made set of tools for cleaning chimneys of any shape

Video: cleaning the chimney of a bath stove from soot