The chimney is the central element of the chimney system in any private house where there is heating equipment that runs on solid or liquid fuels. For its effective operation, it is required not only to comply with the installation technology, but also to install a full-fledged heat-insulating layer, which will be located outside the chimney.
During operation, a large amount of combustion products and hot air are transported through the smoke channel. All this reduces the service life of the chimney by accelerating the processes of corrosion and oxidation of the inner walls of the outlet channel.
Among the most common problems that lead to damage to the chimney are:
Insulation of the chimney using modern heat-insulating materials reduces the risk of damage and reduces the rate of corrosion processes. For example, the insulation of steel chimneys extends the service life of the product by 2 or more times.
Timely thermal insulation of the chimney reduces the risk of exposure to factors that lead to the formation of damage in metal, brick or ceramics. With the right thickness of the insulation, the problem with condensate is solved almost completely - the dew point shifts to the pipe section located above the roof level. This significantly increases the resource of the smoke channel and the life of the flue system as a whole.
Insulation of the chimney increases its service life several times
Other benefits of an insulated chimney include:
Modern heaters increase the frost resistance of the smoke exhaust system. If the insulation technology is followed, it is possible to reduce or completely eliminate the effect of high temperature in the area where the pipe exits through the roof.
To insulate the stove chimney, materials are used that provide a high degree of insulation, coupled with low thermal conductivity. This eliminates the risk of cold bridges, icing and condensation.
Among the most effective and popular materials for insulation are the following:
Chimney insulation with heat-resistant plaster requires unreasonably large labor costs
Screened slag densely fills the installation gap and provides a high degree of thermal insulation of the chimney
In fact, all the methods described above have some similarities - the insulation is applied or fixed on the outer surface of the chimney. After that, the heat-insulating material is protected by a steel casing.
In order to save money, the outer steel pipe can be replaced with wooden or cinder-concrete slabs. For example, a rectangular frame can be fixed around the chimney using wooden shields at hand, and the space between the pipe and the shields can be filled with any heat-insulating material.
The first thing to remember when choosing a material for chimney insulation is that the insulation must be made of non-combustible components. During the operation of the chimney, the insulation will heat up to 100–150 ° C, and at the point where the pipe exits through the ceiling, the temperature may be even higher.
If the installation of the insulation will be carried out by one person, then it is better to choose the lightest and most solid material. Otherwise, during the warming, problems will certainly arise, which will ultimately affect the quality of the work carried out.
For self-insulation of the chimney, it is better to use basalt thermal insulation. The shape and thickness of the product is selected taking into account the existing design of the chimney.
The basalt cylinder can be matched exactly to the size of the chimney pipe
The advantages of heaters based on basalt wool include:
Before using ready-made thermal insulation from the manufacturer, you should carefully study the technology of its installation. As a rule, high-quality products are completed with a paper insert or instructions that describe in detail how they are cut and installed.
The insulated chimney is a "pipe-in-pipe" design, similar to a sandwich pipe, which is also used for the construction of smoke channels. Usually, a wooden box lined with asbestos boards or a large diameter steel pipe acts as an outer pipe.
Any insulated chimney consists of a smoke exhaust channel, an outer shell and a layer of insulation between them.
Between the outer shell and the chimney there is a non-combustible heat-insulating material, fixed mechanically or glued to a heat-resistant adhesive or sealant. The inside of an insulated chimney is nothing more than a chimney .
The layer of material used as a heater acts as a thermal insulation barrier. On the one hand, it does not allow the elements in direct contact with the chimney to heat up. On the other hand, cold air does not cool the chimney and thus does not create a sharp difference between the temperature of the outgoing combustion products and the inner surface of the chimney.
Before purchasing insulation and materials needed to assemble the frame around the chimney structure, you will need to calculate them. This will save money, especially if specialized expensive products are used for insulation.
Before making calculations, you will need to measure:
The data obtained allow us to calculate the required amount of heat-insulating material and accessories. As an example, we calculate the materials for insulating a steel chimney with a cross section of 200 mm and a height of 5 m.
For thermal insulation of round chimneys, ready-made cylindrical fragments of heaters are produced
When using a basalt "shell", products with a total length of 5 linear meters with an internal cylinder diameter of 210 mm will be required. The density of the insulation is 120–150 kg / m 3. The thickness of the heat insulator is selected taking into account the temperature regime in the region. For operation in the conditions of the Russian winter, cylinders with a thickness of 70–100 mm are sufficient. As an external pipe, a galvanized steel product with a cross section of 280–310 mm with a total length of 5 m is required.
To insulate square chimneys, it is convenient to use basalt wool in slabs
To insulate square or rectangular chimneys, you will need to know their dimensions. For example, a square chimney with a side of 0.3 m will require (0.3 * 5) * 4 = 6 m 2 of insulation. The length of the chimney is still considered to be 5 m.
If you buy high-quality insulation, then usually in one package there is a roll with a total area of 5 m 2. So, for our example, we need two packs of basalt wool in rolls. Roll parameters - 5000x1000x50 mm. To assemble the frame around a square chimney, you can use a 50 × 50 mm bar. An asbestos slab 3000x1500x12 is better suited as an outer skin.
In addition to insulation, additional consumables are needed for thermal insulation work. To assemble the wooden frame and its sheathing, galvanized self-tapping screws 30 mm long are used. To fix the heat insulator, a refractory sealant is used - Penosil High Temp, PENOSIL Premium 1500 or MAKROFLEX HA147.
A heat-resistant sealant is used to fix the insulation to the surface of the chimney
To insulate chimneys made of steel or ceramics, you will need:
To plaster the chimney, it is necessary to prepare a container for plaster, a plastering trowel, a wooden rectangular trowel, a triangular trowel, a rule and a long-haired paint brush.
Before carrying out thermal insulation work, you should check the reliability and strength of the foundation, which was erected under the stove or other heating equipment.
If there is no foundation, then before insulating the chimney, you will need to assemble the supporting structure under the outer casing. This can be either a support bracket, which can be purchased at the store, or a welded frame made from a steel angle. Usually, ready-made support brackets are used for steel chimneys, and in the case of a brick chimney, the foundation design is already designed for current loads.
After that, you should carefully examine the place where the chimney exits through the ceilings and roof. The exit point through the ceiling must be protected by a steel box. The minimum distance from the chimney to the walls of the box is at least 20 cm. When exiting through the roof, the chimney must not come into contact with the roof structures. To do this, provide appropriate spacers or a special cap, which is mounted outside the building.
The place where the chimney exits through the ceiling must be protected by a metal box.
Before proceeding with the insulation, the outer surface of the chimney should be cleaned of dust and dirt. To do this, use a regular brush with a hard bristle and a broom. When cleaning a brick chimney, remove excess dust and loose cement. This can be done with a paint brush and water.
Insulation of a brick chimney can be done using different materials. The most time-consuming and inefficient method is plastering, but many still use it, since it does not require large expenditures. On average, after work, heat loss is reduced by 20-25%.
The sequence of actions for plastering is as follows:
For the preparation of plaster, it is necessary to knead a solution of cement, lime and slag
Brick chimneys are sometimes insulated with heat-resistant plaster, although this is considered the least effective way.
After drying, the plaster is bleached with a solution of lime and chalk. If necessary, it is applied in 2-3 layers. Instead of a cement-slag mixture, heat-resistant plaster with fire resistance up to 600 ° C can be used.
The technology described below can be used to insulate any round chimney, but is most often used for thermal insulation of steel structures. The sequence of work will depend on the type of external pipe. We recommend using the manufacturer's telescopic tube.
Thermal insulation work is carried out in the following order:
In the process of work, you should carefully monitor the docking of the elements. The joint between the upper and lower pipes must be without visible gap. When using pipes without a welded seam, the connecting joint is also treated with a sealant.
This technology is most often used for brick chimney insulation. But if necessary, this method can be used to insulate the chimney from one or more asbestos pipes.
Warming is carried out in the following sequence:
After installation, the seam between the asbestos plates at the corners of the frame is filled with heat-resistant plaster. From the side of the outlet from the chimney, the surface is also rubbed with heat-resistant plaster.
After performing thermal insulation work, a test furnace or boiler furnace should be carried out. The maximum power is not more than 60% of the nominal value. To diagnose and check the quality of insulation, you will need to purchase or rent a hand-held thermal imager. During the diagnostic process, you should find out how tight the outer casing of the insulated chimney is. If everything is in order, then neither the walls of the structure nor the connecting seams will let heat through. This will be clearly visible on the equipment screen.
Loss of tightness is the most common problem that leads to burnout of the chimney and overheating of the insulation. If such a problem is present, then it will be necessary to remove the outer pipe or casing and reinstall it in accordance with the technology.
Burnout of an insulated chimney can occur due to loss of tightness or due to improperly selected thickness of the heat insulator
If, after the chimney has been insulated, condensate still continues to accumulate, then, most likely, the thickness of the thermal insulation was chosen incorrectly. The minimum thickness of the insulation should not be less than 4 cm. For insulation of steel and asbestos pipes with a height of more than 6 m, it is recommended to use a heater with a thickness of 10 cm. When insulating brick chimneys, it is better to use heat-insulating boards with a total thickness of 8 cm or more.
Chimney insulation is a mandatory work that must be carried out immediately after the construction of the chimney system and ventilation. It is optimal if, already at the stage of arranging the chimney, modern heat-insulating materials or finished products with a heat-insulating layer are used. This will allow you to assemble a chimney that will last the entire declared period without forced downtime for periods of repair.
Having built a bath, you need to take care of the safety of your loved ones. The main danger is live fire. If you do not perform high-quality insulation of the chimney, stove, ceiling and walls, then the ceiling may catch fire. According to the statistics of firefighters, in 2014, 70% of bathhouse fires occurred due to improper pipe insulation. We care about our readers and will tell you how to insulate a pipe in a bath with your own hands, what materials exist to protect wooden structures from fire.
The pipe in the bath must be safe and hold heat well.
The chimney and stove heat up quickly. Traditionally, bathhouses are made of wood and they ignite easily. In the old days, a layer of clay, asbestos and other available materials was used to insulate walls, ceilings, chimneys and stoves. The main thing is that the material is a poor conductor of heat and does not ignite at high temperatures. Protecting the chimney is necessary not only for fire safety purposes. Condensation will not form inside the insulated structure, the chimney will cool down more slowly and will serve the owners longer.
Some people think that it is enough to upholster the ceiling around the chimney with metal sheets, and the bathhouse is completely isolated from fire. The metal heats up in the same way, it will not save from fire. As a heat insulator for the chimney, it is also not suitable.
You can overlay the pipe with red brick, but not every bath provides for a similar design in design and size.
Modern manufacturers offer several material options for insulating a chimney in a bath:
Let's briefly look at each type.
Thermal insulation is a relatively new material. You can do the insulation with your own hands. Made from polyethylene foam, which is hidden between two sheets of foil.
Manufacturers offer Teploizol with a thickness of 2 to 10 mm. The thicker the material, the higher the temperature can withstand. For an easier presentation, consider the table:
The top foil layer will protect the chimney from strong heat. The material is easy to work with. It is wrapped around the chimney, secured with special metallized tape or wire.
Folgoizol consists of two layers: foil and heat insulator. The foil plays a reflective role and retains 90% of the heat in the bath. In terms of environmental friendliness, the material ranks first among similar ones, since thick food foil is used for manufacturing. The material is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures from -65 to +175 °C. It is a good insulator.
Often foil isol cover not only the chimney, but also the walls, the ceiling of the steam room. It is an excellent insulation, steam and water insulator for a sauna or bath.
The sauna, finished inside with foil-insulation, resembles a thermos in design. The heat does not come out, the bath warms up quickly and cools down for a long time.
Modern manufacturers offer to install a safe sandwich pipe in a bath or sauna. By choosing a sandwich chimney, you don't have to worry about insulation. The chimney consists of several sections that are easily inserted into each other. It will be easy to assemble the structure with your own hands. A sandwich pipe is suitable for a bath or sauna with an iron stove.
Sandwich pipe immediately has built-in insulation and insulation.The design of the sandwich pipe resembles a multi-layered pie. From the inside, a layer of stainless steel, then a heater (basalt or mineral wool) is laid, outside galvanized steel. The design is a modern method of built-in prefabricated chimney insulation. The design is intended to perform two functions at once: soot does not accumulate inside, it does not overheat outside.
But the iron stove to which the sandwich pipe is intended is mainly used in the sauna. What to do if you have a traditional Russian bath with a brick stove, how to make insulation? We'll talk about this below.
For the construction of a pipe in a bath with a stone stove, red brick is used. He is not afraid of high temperatures, keeps heat for a long time.
The design of the brick pipe must be correctly folded. How long the structure will last will depend on the quality of the masonry. When making a pipe for your bath, you should not save money, as repairs can be more expensive.
The pipe at the intersection with the roof, ceiling and other parts of the roof structure must be insulated with metal sheets.The outlet of the pipe on the ceiling and through the roof must be isolated from high temperatures using asbestos sheets. And the walls near the inside of the pipe are upholstered with galvanized metal sheets. Do not use simple iron sheets, as they are susceptible to corrosion. Around the pipe in places where it passes through the ceiling, you can make a box and fill it with expanded clay inside. It will additionally contain heat and protect wooden floors from fire.
Properly insulating the pipe is only half the battle. It is also necessary to take care of the stove, ceiling and walls of the bath.
Modern metal furnaces are simply installed on the foundation, the walls are sheathed with metal sheets from the back and side. A do-it-yourself stove made of metal looks unsightly, it can be overlaid with red brick. It will be an additional insulator and help keep the heat in the bath.
Previously, the stove was insulated with asbestos sheets, but at high temperatures it releases harmful substances. Therefore, we do not recommend using asbestos in the steam room.
It is more environmentally friendly to insulate the stove with natural felt. The material is expensive, but is a good insulator. The felt will not burn, and when a spark hits, it will begin to smolder. The smell during smoldering is specific, it is difficult not to notice such.
When installing the stove directly on a wooden floor, we recommend that you first lay the felt in two layers, then make a brick pillow in three rows. The walls and floor around are insulated with metal sheets 50–70 cm high.
Proper insulation of the chimney or stove will extend the life of the chimney and heat generator, as well as protect the wooden structure from fire. And after reading the article there will be no questions about how to isolate the pipe in the bath.
When the house is built, the stove is equipped and the chimney pipe is brought out, it's time to think about protecting the roof from fire and moisture. For this, insulation is used. If this issue is worked out at the stage of designing a house, then the solution of the technological difficulties that arise during the insulation process will already be provided and there should not be any particular difficulties. Otherwise, more serious efforts may be required. Let's figure out how to do-it-yourself chimney insulation and what kind of chimney sealant you may need.
Chimney insulation in the ceiling with mineral wool
In the absence of a chimney waterproofing, it can fail very quickly. The reason for this may be:
Thermal insulation of chimneys will help to combat both of these phenomena.
Chimney insulation in a bathhouse, sauna or private house can significantly extend the life of the chimney. This happens due to the influence of the following factors:
Non-combustible insulation of the chimney from wood is carried out in order to achieve two main effects. In this regard, the following types of isolation are distinguished:
It is best to immediately perform a comprehensive insulation, including both of these types of insulation.
The easiest way to create a do-it-yourself chimney thermal insulation is to install a sandwich chimney. In such structures, a layer of insulation has already been laid between the inner and outer pipes, thus solving the problem. Almost any master can handle the installation of such a unit, as they are equipped with structures for fixing, inspection and maintenance. The main thing in this case is to strictly adhere to the manufacturer's recommendations.
Another way to provide fire protection for air ducts is to build them out of brick. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the brick, the chimney does not heat up to excessively high temperature values. Due to this, additional fire-retardant treatment of air ducts will not be required.
Advice. Sometimes homeowners prefer to lighten the load on the roof by complementing the brick chimney with a metal pipe. In this case, the methods for isolating the chimney in the bathhouse and other rooms are similar to those used for insulating a metal duct.
Methods for insulating chimney pipes differ depending on the materials used in their installation.
Brick chimneys can be insulated as follows.
To isolate the chimney from stainless steel or other metal, other methods are used.
The simplest is the use of insulation coated with plaster on top. As a non-combustible thermal insulation for steel chimneys, you can choose basalt wool 5 cm thick. We wrap the pipe with it, fixing it with wire on top. Then the pipe is reinforced and covered with a layer of plaster. It is possible to replace the plaster with a stainless steel sheet. In this way, a heat-resistant structure is obtained, which significantly reduces the likelihood of a fire. Fire-retardant coating of air ducts with the help of special compounds will further increase the resistance to fire.
One of the most critical areas where chimney insulation is needed is the passage through the roof. To do this, install a special box as follows. In all structures through which the chimney pipe passes, a hole is cut out, approximately 25-35 cm larger than its diameter. Asbestos or metal sheets are installed along the edges of the hole. All the space remaining before the pipe is filled with insulation. The design will be even more reliable if it is supplemented with a heat-resistant sealant for the chimney.
Attention! Even if you have correctly completed the fire-retardant treatment of air ducts, you are not relieved of the need to regularly take measures to clean them from burning, ash and other combustion products. Only all these measures in the complex are able to ensure the fire safety of a house, bath or sauna.
Waterproofing refers to the sealing of the chimney at the point of its passage through the roof. It is here that moisture can penetrate inside the house, which can lead to the processes of decay and destruction of structures, both ceilings and the chimney itself. Therefore, sealing the chimney using silicone or silicate compounds is a very important condition for its normal functioning for a long time.
Chimney waterproofing is not possible with any sealant. It must contain a flame retardant for air ducts that can withstand the temperature of hot gases. Such sealants are divided into two groups.
They can treat places with the highest temperatures, including the boiler outlet. If a high-temperature pipe sealant is marked "fire-resistant", then it will not lose its properties even when it comes into contact with an open flame.
The answer to the question of which composition to choose depends on the material from which the chimney is made.
Heat-resistant silicone sealants vary in their properties depending on the components included in them. These data are indicated on the packaging. Divided into acidic and neutral. The first, drying, release acetic acid. In this regard, their use with materials that are not resistant to corrosion is contraindicated. Neutral thermal sealants have been developed for such materials.
Heat-resistant silicone sealants have the following qualities. They are resistant to UV radiation, and therefore they can be used outside the building. They have good adhesive properties, which allows them to be used with various materials. Even after drying, they retain some plasticity. They harden within hours or even days. This time is indicated in the instructions for silicone sealant and depends on external conditions.
Advice! Despite the fact that silicone has good adhesion to a smooth surface, it is still recommended to go over it with sandpaper or other abrasive to improve adhesion, followed by degreasing the surface.
Heat resistant sealants. Made on a silicate basis, they are able to withstand very high temperatures. With their help, pipe joints are processed. The downside is the poor ability to stay on smooth surfaces and the inability to use in the cold season.
If in the future it is planned to dismantle the chimney, it is advisable to use heat-resistant mounting foam for chimneys only for processing seams and joints. If the pipe is completely processed inside, it will be impossible to disassemble it, since the use of sealant leads to the fact that the surface becomes monolithic.
Due to the unpredictability of the need to disassemble a stainless steel chimney with sealant, experts still do not recommend using it in too large quantities.
Today, there are many ways to insulate a chimney. Knowing the features of the technologies and materials used, it is not difficult to do all the work with your own hands. This will help to ensure reliable operation of the chimney for a long time and reduce the likelihood of a fire or rotting structures.
The stove is folded, and the chimney proudly rises above the roof of the house. Do you think the work is done? Not at all - it's time to think about how to insulate the chimney pipe and protect the house from fire, and the roof from leaks. Well, if you thought about this issue even in the process of designing the furnace - in this case, the insulation of the chimney will be reliable and safe. It is more difficult to isolate an already built chimney, sometimes this work entails a change in the design of floors and roofs. However, the costs will be compensated by a sense of security and comfort.
It is necessary to isolate the chimney from two negative destructive factors: from overheating of the structures and from leakage at the joints. Therefore, in the article we will consider two types of chimney insulation:
It is recommended to immediately carry out complex insulation, solving not only the main problems, but also improving the operating conditions of the furnace. For example, insulating a pipe running through an unheated attic reduces the risk of overheating wood roofing and reduces the risk of condensation that can lead to excessive soot, corrosion, or pipe failure. Waterproofing the pipe will help to avoid rotting of the truss system and ceilings, as well as the destruction of the pipe if it gets wet.
The easiest and most reliable, but not always the cheapest way is to install a ceramic or metal sandwich chimney. In such chimneys, the inner pipe, which performs the function of removing smoke, is made of heat-resistant steel or ceramic and is thermally insulated with non-combustible heaters: mineral, stone or basalt wool. The outer layer of the sandwich chimney is made of steel or ready-made expanded clay concrete blocks.
Prefabricated ceramic chimney - a safe solution to the problem
Prefabricated chimneys are equipped with elements for fastening, revision, maintenance, as well as for connecting several heaters. Installation of such a chimney is not difficult, but requires compliance with the instructions, only then it will be completely safe.
Thermal insulation of the sandwich pipe
Another insulation method used in the construction of the furnace is a brick chimney. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the brick, its walls do not heat up to dangerously high temperatures, so no additional measures to insulate such a chimney are required, except for the correct implementation of the fire-prevention cutting of floors and roofs. To save money and facilitate construction, a brick chimney is sometimes finished with a metal or ceramic pipe. In this case, they are thermally insulated according to the technology described below.
Thermal insulation of metal and ceramic single pipes is possible using ducts made of non-combustible materials and mineral non-combustible thermal insulation - stone or basalt wool. It is possible to operate such chimneys without thermal insulation, but the implementation of fire cutting according to all the rules is mandatory in any case.
Chimney waterproofing is installed at the point of its exit to the roof. The larger the pipe and the farther from the ridge it is located, the more difficult operating conditions await it: in case of rain, more abundant water flows, in winter - increased snow load. Rain and melt water with insufficient waterproofing penetrates inside the house, leading to leaks, rotting of wood and destruction of concrete and brick structures, including the chimney itself.
The method of waterproofing depends largely on the shape of the pipe and the type of roofing. For round pipes, metal or polymer cuts are used, for rectangular pipes, metal aprons and junction strips are used. How to waterproof the pipe is described in detail in the article, and then we will talk about the technology of thermal insulation of the chimney.
Before proceeding with the insulation of the chimney pipe, it is necessary to check compliance with the requirements of SNiP 2.04.05-91 and, if necessary, correct the shortcomings:
The brick pipe does not heat up much from the outside, so it must be insulated as soon as possible in order to improve operating conditions and extend the service life. The most affordable way to insulate a brick chimney is to plaster with cement mortar or a mortar based on cement and lime. Instead of sand, you can add sifted slag chips to it.
The composition of the solution:
This method exceeds plastering in terms of heat saving by 2-2.5 times and consists in gluing asbestos-cement boards on cement-lime mortar on the outer walls of the pipe.
The disadvantages of this method include the low environmental friendliness of asbestos - it releases carcinogens, so it is impossible to use this method of isolation in living rooms. In a non-residential attic, thermal insulation of the chimney with asbestos will reduce the temperature difference between the inside and outside of the chimney and significantly reduce the formation of condensate, as well as improve its fire protection.
In addition, a brick pipe can be sewn up with sheet iron using a layer of insulation. How to do this, you can learn from the video.
The most dangerous version of the chimney in terms of fire protection is a metal pipe that is not protected by a heat insulator. The distance from such pipes to wooden and plastic structures should not be less than 0.6 meters. But even observing this distance will not protect you from burns if accidentally touched, so it is better to insulate the pipe without waiting for problems.
Uninsulated metal pipe is a common cause of fires
The easiest way to insulate a single pipe is to wrap it with a layer of non-combustible insulation, such as basalt wool, and protect it from above with metal or plaster. The melting point of this material approaches 1000 degrees, which is much higher than the temperature of the smoke.
The most critical sections of the chimney insulation are passages through the floors, so they are given special attention. It is necessary to isolate the passages when using any chimney: both a sandwich pipe, and brick, and metal in isolation.
Passes are carried out subject to the following conditions:
Insulation of passages through floors with basalt wool
Having figured out how to insulate the chimney pipe, you can easily do this work, but remember that even an insulated chimney pipe requires proper operation: clean soot at least three times a year, remove ash from the furnace in a timely manner, do not burn in it not intended for the firebox materials and objects (garbage). All this is the key to a long and safe service of the chimney.
The construction of a chimney channel in a private house involves compliance with the rules of sealing and fire safety. When constructing a chimney in a house or at the outlet of a metal chimney in a bathhouse through the roof, chimney insulation is the main indicator of the correct organization of this block of work.
The junction of the chimney with the ceiling and roofing materials remains a vulnerable area due to possible overheating and fire of the roof. To eliminate the possibility of a fire, it is important to organize the insulation and sealing of the roof in accordance with all the rules.
Pipe insulation at the joint
The release of new building materials and the development of advanced technologies are a guarantee of effective thermal insulation. The choice of materials for this purpose largely determines the shape of the chimney, the method of wrapping the pipe that removes hot gaseous substances during fuel combustion.
The main difficulty is to prevent the materials adjacent to the chimney from heating up excessively so that they do not ignite in any type of building.
Most buildings in private households have a chimney coming from:
They have different degrees of load and the level of heating to the maximum temperature, but insulation is needed in each case. A prefabricated or modular chimney, produced as a sandwich system, involves ready-made insulation of double pipes with a layer of basalt wool. It is effective both for insulation, to reduce the likelihood of condensation, and as protection against overheating of roofing materials at the exit through the roof. It remains to properly organize the tightness of this passage so that moisture does not enter the house.
Before insulating a pipe in a bathhouse or residential building, you should choose the option that is most suitable for your design. A ceramic chimney is no less efficient and durable; it is used for a fireplace or a bath. The assembly of the finished structure includes components made of fire-fighting materials. Some of them adjoin directly to the pipe or cover it, others are designed to seal the passage through the roof.
The choice of location for the chimney outlet should be such as to facilitate the insulation work. But the pipe should rise 30-40 cm above the ridge, in order to avoid reverse thrust in strong winds, so the pipe is often taken out through the ridge.
In the houses of the old design, when all the stove chimneys were made of brickwork, round pipes are led out through a square ceiling opening. The passage section in the ceiling is equipped with a special box made of wood or metal, keeping a sufficient distance to the chimney.
It is important to properly insulate this "window" so that all gaps are filled, and the materials at the junction are protected from fire. This gap is filled with mineral wool, and special fire-resistant plaster is used. Basalt and asbestos blocks are also used in a brick chimney.
The safe and secure exit of the chimney pipe through the roof opening is solved in 2 directions:
Separation of the chimney and multi-layer roofing cake (with insulation, hydro and vapor barrier) is carried out according to all modern standards:
The box for the outlet of the chimney is constructed from a transverse beam and rafters, keeping a distance of at least 15 cm from the wooden structure to the metal chimney. The gap between them is filled with basalt wool.
The fire regulations state that the temperature in the contact circle of the chimney should not exceed 50ºС. The film membranes inside the roofing pie can be made of flammable materials, so a gap and additional insulation with non-combustible mineral wool is required between them and the pipe.
The membranes of the roofing pie, cut at the exit of the pipe, must be carefully cut and wrapped. Then they are pressed with a crate and fixed along the edges of the box with nails. For complete tightness of the roof, the pipe in this place must be wrapped with a special one.
When the chimney goes through an unheated attic, and not in a residential attic, the risk of overheating of the roof elements is reduced. Complete tightness of the insulation is necessary in any case, but it is better to additionally wrap the pipe with a special tape. Proper installation of the internal waterproofing and the outer hood will ensure reliable sealing after the thermal insulation of the chimney is installed in the roof opening.
In most cases, well-organized chimney insulation on the roof counteracts the leakage of precipitation. But there are 2 types of possible leaks:
The simplest way to externally insulate a chimney is to install a ready-made insulating apron or cap.
Try to cut a similar device from a galvanized sheet yourself to fix a leak in an old roof, this will save money. With this method, no adjustment is needed - all the design features of the roof and the pipe coming out of it are taken into account.
Products of this type are also produced from different materials. It is important to choose an insulating cap (apron) that fits the width of the metal chimney pipe. Or a complete roof passage is selected, which is purchased along with a sandwich pipe.
Any building and roof gradually shrink, so rigid fastening of waterproofing is not always effective. Visually, the integrity of the roof is preserved, and signs of depressurization gradually appear at the joints. Experts recommend reinforcing the insulation at the places where the cap is attached - with an elastic heat-resistant gasket.
Among the most reliable structures for the passage of a pipe through the roof is a specially made box - like a truss system. Instead of wood, which belongs to flammable materials, it can be made of galvanized roofing, but in the same way.
The design of modular chimneys has ready-made thermal insulation, but they differ in configuration. For example, there is a double pipe with a layer of basalt wool or a special ceramic core and an outer casing made of concrete. The assembly of modular blocks is quite simple - the diagram is attached with the purchase.
It is possible to install a gasket made of asbestos, followed by sealing with asbestos mortar. Each new block of the module is attached above the previous one with the same composition of the mixture. After installation is completed, the pipe is isolated from leakage in the roof window in any way described.
Modern roofing with corrugated board has its own characteristics - here it is better to make the chimney window a little wider. All mating surfaces are also filled with materials with thermal insulating properties. The chimney, before being wrapped with basalt wool, is placed in a steel box. Carefully cut the film layers of vapor and waterproofing, fix them by the edges of the box. Between it and the pipe, it is imperative to make a heat-resistant filling.
Next, external waterproofing is carried out - a sealing cap material corresponding to the size of the chimney pipe is put on top, the edge is fastened with a clamp on glue. The lower edge is tightly fitted to the roofing material, rigidly fixed with a sealant. A steel cap is often included in the package of such a chimney. They are put on round pipes. The installation is recommended when the smoke from the solid fuel boiler at the outlet has a temperature of more than 100°C.
If you properly insulate the chimney pipe, then you will not be threatened with dampness and rotten ceiling.