How to close the pipe on the roof. How to seal a stainless steel chimney

The situation when a pipe is flowing on the roof, or there are leaks in the roof near it, requires immediate intervention. Otherwise, such damage to the roof can lead to disastrous consequences. Fortunately, fixing such a defect with your own hands is quite simple. The main thing is to decide how to close the gap between the pipe and the roof. To do this, you need to choose the right method for eliminating the cause of the leak, determining the place of the leak and preparing the required materials, which must be selected taking into account the type of pipe and roof.

Before answering the question of how and how to eliminate a leak on the roof near the pipe, it is necessary to decide what material it is made of. It is very important. This is the starting point for renovation work.

The chimney channel can be mounted from the following materials:

bricks;
metal;
asbestos.

When eliminating a leak, you need to follow a certain sequence of actions, which for each chimney material can vary significantly. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the technology for eliminating such defects for each type of pipe in detail.

Brick chimney leak repair

If a pipe on the roof made of red brick is flowing, then the following materials and tools will be required to fix the problem:

cement brand M 400 or M 500;
sand, preferably river or sea, but quarry is also suitable;
water;
Master OK.

How to close the gap between the pipe and the roof, having all of the above? You must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

cement mortar is made from prepared materials by mixing 3-4 parts of sand and one cement;
the detected leak site is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and remnants of the destroyed brick;
the prepared mixture is applied with a trowel to the damaged areas.

The pipe on the roof is best repaired in sunny, dry weather. So the cement mortar will harden much faster.

Metal chimney leak repair

If a metal chimney is leaking, then to correct the situation, you will need:

special clamps with a rubber gasket that can be fixed on the pipe at the place where the gap occurs. The diameter of the clamp should be approximately equal to the thickness of the pipe. Its width should be slightly larger than the size of the crack;
in addition, small cracks can be eliminated by cold welding, the instructions for which can be found on the packaging.

These materials for fixing a metal pipe leak can only be used as a temporary measure. As soon as possible, the damaged section of the chimney must be replaced with a new one.

Asbestos chimney leak repair

If water flows down an asbestos pipe, then you can eliminate the leak by performing a series of the following steps:

first of all, you need to stock up on cotton fabric and Red Iron paint. You can buy such materials at any hardware store;
further, the chimney, namely the damaged area, should be cleaned of dirt and dust;
paint is applied in a thick layer;
fabric is tightly wrapped over it;
then the paint is reapplied.

For the most part, such repairs are also a temporary measure, allowing you to postpone the replacement of the chimney for a certain period. It should not be delayed with the replacement of a damaged asbestos chimney.

Fixing leaks near pipes

If during the melting of snow or in the rain water flows through the chimney, then the reason for this is a violation of the tightness in the place where the pipe and the roof are connected. In the event of a roof leak near the pipe, the existing problem can be eliminated in a number of ways:

apply bituminous tape;
install rubber cuffs;
manufacture and install a metal apron.

All of the above methods allow you to close the leak, so they should be considered in more detail.

Using bituminous tape

If a chimney leaks from rain or melting snow, then the easiest and cheapest way to eliminate the leak is to make an apron from bitumen tape. To perform such work, you need to use the following materials and tools:

bituminous tape;
scissors;
metal brush;
gas burner.

The gaps are closed by carrying out the following activities:

first you need to use a metal brush, with which the roof is cleaned around the chimney and its outer lower part;
a damp cloth removes the remnants of dust and dirt;
pieces of bitumen tape are glued at the junction of the pipe and roofing material. It doesn't matter which side there are gaps. You should create a full-fledged apron around the entire pipe;
the glued tape is heated by a gas burner, which is pressed as tightly as possible to the roof and pipe;
to close the joint more reliably, the tape can be additionally fixed with a wooden block or board (this is not always possible, it all depends on the roofing material).

Bituminous tape is a versatile material. It can be used if a pipe or roof is leaking, made of any material. The tape is able to perform its functions qualitatively for 2-3 years (depending on the abundance of precipitation and other factors).

Using the rubber cuff

If the roof is leaking near the chimney, then you can fix this situation by using a rubber cuff, which you can buy at almost any hardware store. It is installed as follows:

a cut is made in the upper part of the cuff, the diameter of which is slightly less than the thickness of the pipe;
the prepared cuff is put on the outer part of the chimney channel and lowered to the level of the roof;
to avoid the possibility of repeated leakage, it is necessary to use sealant at the point of contact of the roof with the bottom of the cuff.

Some types of cuffs are not easy to stick to the roof. Individual models can be screwed to the roof with self-tapping screws, but this is only possible in cases where the roof is not made of tiles or slate.

The main disadvantage of a rubber cuff is that it cannot be installed on a square or rectangular pipe. What to do in such a situation? Use any other leak repair method described above and below.

Arrangement of a metal apron

A chimney leak at the junction of the pipe and the roof can be eliminated by installing a metal apron. This is done as follows:

an apron is made from a sheet of tin, which has a small thickness, the dimensions of which must match the dimensions of the pipe. A similar product can be purchased at a hardware store;
the upper part of the apron is attached to the pipe and crimped with a clamp. You need to carefully follow the crimping process. Gaps are not allowed;
the lower part of the apron is installed on the roof and fastened with self-tapping screws. To ensure that the damaged area of the roof does not leak, in the future the lower part of the plate should be fixed on top of the roofing material, and the upper part should be removed under the sheathing.

On this, the manufacture and installation of a metal apron can be considered completed. There will be no more problems from the patched area. For additional sealing, the metal apron can be equipped with a rubber lining, and the contact point of the cone-shaped part and the chimney channel can be covered with sealant.

The roof flowing near the chimney can be sealed in many ways. Such gaps are closed in 5-10 minutes, but it should be understood that such repairs cannot be considered high-quality. The sealed junctions of the roof and vertical elements will certainly make themselves felt in a few years. Thus, such local repairs are a temporary measure. It is designed to protect against moisture ingress into the room until the full roofing repair is completed.

Installation of a chimney in general is not difficult, however, there are some places, for example, passages through ceilings, which can cause difficulties in the absence of experience. It is important to remember that when installing a chimney, proper waterproofing should be ensured.

No matter how tightly the pipe is placed to the roof, the gap will still be present. In rainy weather, precipitation will fall into the inner layers of the roofing cake and cause irreparable damage. That is why sealing the gaps between the pipe and the roof is an important stage in the construction of the chimney, which should not be neglected.

Ways to close gaps

The easiest way to close the gap between the pipe and the roof is to install a special protective element on top - an apron. Such an element can be built independently, however, it will be necessary to foresee the junction strips on the pipe in advance. You can do it even easier - purchase a ready-made stainless steel roof passage. As a rule, the chimney passage has a circular cross section, and galvanized steel serves as the material for its production. The passage is put on the pipe, and the junction is additionally fixed with a steel clamp. The galvanized passage for the chimney is shown in the figure:

If you need to close small gaps between the pipe and the roof, a silicone-based sealant will do. To date, any hardware store has a huge selection of sealants, your choice must be stopped at a heat-resistant version.

In addition to general recommendations, there is also its own specifics for sealing gaps for various roofing materials. Therefore, the algorithm for waterproofing is different on a slate, tiled, bituminous roof, as well as a corrugated roof.

Sealing cracks in slate roofing

If necessary, an asbestos-cement mixture is used to close the gap on the slate roof. The process technology is as follows:

A round hole is cut in the steel sheet, which is used to finish the ridge.
A ring of sheet asbestos cement is put on the pipe.
For complete tightness, it is necessary to seal the joint of the pipe with the roof with a solution of cement and asbestos, which are diluted in a ratio of 1 to 2.
It is also necessary to fill the gap between the chimney pipe and the slate sheet with asbestos-cement mortar. For this purpose, you can make a temporary limiter out of cardboard.

How to fix gaps in a tile roof

The best way to seal gaps in a tile roof is to use a cement-sand mortar. It is this method of sealing the pipe that will provide reliable protection against the ingress of any type of precipitation.

In order to make waterproofing, you must:

Prepare a galvanized steel collar on the roof, and thereby create a place for filling with mortar.
Fill the gap with cement-sand mortar, make sure that it fits snugly against the roof and chimney.
Additionally, make an inclined surface on the collar to drain the liquid.

Bituminous roof waterproofing options

For waterproofing the chimney that rises above the bituminous roof, self-adhesive Wakaflex tape is used. The work steps are as follows:

Production of cutting from roofing tape Wakaflex.
Pressing the cut with a pipe case.
Sealing gaps between the connected elements with special bituminous mastic.

Sealing gaps on the roof of corrugated board

If it is necessary to remove the smoke exhaust device through the roof from the corrugated board, the finished pipe cutting Master Flash is most often used. This roofing element is very convenient to use and can be used not only for corrugated board, but also for other roof materials.

Master Flash is an apron-cap, which is a rubber or silicone apron on an aluminum base.

Silicone Master Flash has a wider operating temperature range, but most often rubber is enough, which can withstand loads from -50 to +130 degrees.

Sealing gaps on the roof of corrugated board is as follows:

Make a hole in the cap so that it is slightly smaller than the diameter of the chimney.
Put Master Flash on the pipe.
Place a gasket under the base.
Seal all joints with heat-resistant silicone-based sealant.
Attach the base to the corrugated roof with screws.

There are times when such waterproofing is not enough and water flows at the junction. The way out will be the use of a special self-adhesive tape, which is reinforced with aluminum. It is very convenient to use, because there is no need for preheating before installation.

Choosing the right waterproofing material will help protect your roof from leaking and premature failure. Following the instructions and diligent performance of the work will save you from any trouble.

The service life of a fireplace or stove largely depends on how and how the chimney is sealed from stainless steel or other materials.

Proper installation does not guarantee the absence of problems with the ingress of combustion products into the room. Over time, pipe materials undergo thermal deformation, which leads to ruptures and cracks in the structure.

This leads to a decrease in traction, as a result of which a large amount of combustible material is required to heat the house, and because of this, soot intensively settles on the inner surface of the pipe. The latter is especially dangerous, as it leads not only to the formation of condensate, but can also cause a fire in the pipe.

For this reason, for the stable functioning of a chimney made of stainless steel or any other materials, it must be regularly inspected and the shortcomings that have arisen promptly eliminated. To avoid problems in the future, it is better to seal all cracks and joints in order to avoid defects.

A wide range is presented on the construction market. All the wealth of choice is conditionally divided into heat-resistant and heat-resistant sealants, although, of course, there are much more varieties.

Types of stainless steel chimney sealant

Due to the sealing of cracks in chimneys or chimneys, combustion products will not enter the room through them. Reliable insulation makes the use of the stove, fireplace or boiler as safe as possible.

Watch the video - high temperature cleaners for stainless steel and other materials

All sealants can be divided into several types:

based on silicone or silicate;
by composition: one-component or two-component;
according to temperature characteristics: temperature-resistant sealants and heat-resistant.

As the name implies, one-component sealants consist of one component and do not require mixing of ingredients before carrying out the sealing procedure. This makes them easy to use and popular with homeowners who appreciate the ease of use of an insulation product.

Two-component However, before starting work, you need to mix, clearly observing the proportions indicated in the instructions. In this case, the finished product should be used within a few hours after mixing. This option is not very suitable for sealing joints with your own hands, usually professional builders use two-component insulation.

In addition to insulating the chimney, sealing compounds are also used to insulate the seams of the design of the heating system based on the electric boiler when eliminating pipe leaks.

Silicone sealants for stainless steel, glass and other materials

When wondering how to seal a stainless steel, glass, plastic or ceramic chimney, you should pay attention to refractory silicone. This material contributes to the tight contact of structural parts with each other and reliable insulation. The main advantages of the silicone composition:

due to elasticity, the quality of contact is maintained for a long time, even when, due to high temperatures, the structural elements are deformed and change position relative to each other;
after completion of the polymerization process, the material becomes very durable;
silicone is absolutely waterproof;
the material has a high degree of resistance to ultraviolet radiation and other weather phenomena;
silicone is characterized by high thermal and heat resistance.

There are two types of silicone sealants:

Acid. They release acetic acid during curing, which can damage the chimney or roofing. Such a tool will definitely not become an assistant in solving the problem than sealing a chimney made of stainless steel or a material of natural origin: cement, stone or concrete, as it can contribute to the formation of corrosion of metal elements, the destruction of sections of the pipe and roof in contact with it.
Neutral insulation products, unlike acidic ones, emit water and alcohols into the environment when they harden. It is a suitable sealant for stainless steel chimneys.

An additional plus of silicone-based products is that as a result of heating, the iron oxide included in it turns brown, which makes the insulation more inconspicuous against the background of a roof or brickwork.

Heat-resistant and heat-resistant sealants: what is the difference?

According to the temperature characteristics, the means for insulation are divided into heat-resistant and heat-resistant. They are used to seal the joints of different sections of the structure, as they can withstand different temperatures. If heat-resistant ones are suitable only for external surfaces, then heat-resistant ones can be used to seal the slots of a high-temperature chimney, where temperatures are especially high.

Heat-resistant adhesive for sealing: scope, characteristics

This type of insulation is suitable for working with the external walls of the fireplace, stove, as well as processing the junction of brickwork and roofing.

It should not be used for stainless steel pipes, as it has a rather low heating temperature - only 350 ° C.

Heat-resistant sealant is made on the basis of silicone. The temperature range at which the product can be used is influenced by the additional components present in the product and their percentage. The most common additional component is iron oxide, which gives the insulation a brown tint.

The main characteristics of this type are as follows:

high elasticity of the thermosealant: due to its resistance to deformation, silicone can be used for insulation on pipe sections of a rather complex shape. It will easily cope with the task and will not be covered with cracks under the influence of temperature;
the average temperature range of heat-resistant silicone ranges from +250°С to +320°С;
resistance to ultraviolet radiation: insulation can be used to seal external structural elements;
silicone does not pass moisture, which also makes it suitable for outdoor use. Rain and snow are not afraid of him;
high adhesion allows the silicone compound to adhere perfectly to a variety of types of surfaces: brick, metal or ceramics.

Silicone has few drawbacks, but still they are:

due to its low heat resistance, it is not suitable for sealing internal surfaces that directly interact with fire;
since the material is elastic, it cannot be dyed. The paint will not remain on its surface for a long time.

The curing speed of heat-resistant insulating material depends on the temperature at which the work is carried out. At low temperatures and high humidity, the composition will take longer than indicated on the package. In dry air and high temperatures, it will harden faster. Also, the insulation is better fixed on a dry surface.

Heat-resistant sealant: for which structures it is suitable, the pros and cons

A heat-resistant insulation agent is a better option than caulking metal and stainless steel chimney joints. This is explained by the fact that silicate, which is the main component in the refractory composition, perfectly withstands high temperatures up to 1200-1300°C, and even up to 1600°C under short-term load.

Watch the video - stainless steel against galvanization

The silicate composition is suitable for sealing cracks in fireplaces, stoves, where there is direct contact with fire. As a rule, high temperature insulation material is gray or black.

The main advantages of fire-resistant silicate:

the chemical inertness of the agent allows it to be used for structures made of any material, since it does not react with it;
silicate insulation is resistant to sunlight and precipitation, it can be safely used to treat outdoor chimney sections;
the top layer after drying becomes porous, making it easy to paint.

at the end of the polymerization process, the agent becomes rigid: the slightest vibration or “walking” of structural elements can lead to cracks. Therefore, it is not used for pipes made of materials prone to significant thermal deformations. Only cracks should be sealed with a silicate composition, since when processing the chimney elbow, problems may arise with its disassembly for cleaning in the future;
silicate products have rather low adhesion: the composition will not last long if the sealing site is not treated with a special composition before applying it;
The silicate-based sealant can only be applied at temperatures above 20°C and humidity not below the standard level. If these conditions are not observed, the seam will seize much longer.

Although all silicate thermal sealants are capable of withstanding high temperatures, it is best to use only flame retardant sealants marked "fire retardant" in order to seal the places that will come into contact with the flame.

It is not necessary to apply a silicate sealant in several layers to increase its wear resistance: this way it cannot dry out and becomes covered with cracks. The required width and depth of application are indicated in the instructions. The silicate agent is better fixed on a damp surface, so before starting work it is better to slightly moisten the area where it is planned to be applied.

Thermal tape and hot glue

Along with liquid sealants, there is a very convenient tool that allows you to seal pipe joints made of materials such as plastic and metal (stainless steel) - thermal tape. For a chimney, thermal tape is an excellent insulation. It is only necessary to wrap the joint with it and heat the material. Since it is a self-shrinking sealant, under the influence of temperature, the product will shrink and tightly wrap around the pipe joint.

Another way to cover up joints and cracks is with heat-resistant adhesive sealant. The adhesive composition for insulation can be made on the basis of materials such as acrylic, silicone or polyurethane. The composition allows not only to seal the seams, but also to reliably glue the surfaces of materials together. The adhesive has excellent waterproofing properties, has good adhesion to natural materials and concrete.

How to properly seal?

Most often, the heat and waterproofing of the fireplace causes difficulties, or rather, the removal of a stainless steel pipe through the roof and the covering of the seams between them. This is important not only for high-quality insulation of the pipe, but also so that the roof does not leak.

The place where the pipe connects to the roof is called the chimney outlet. This is a key part of the whole structure, which must be carefully sealed. The durability of the roof and the quality of the heating system depend on its reliability.

Most modern roofing materials have, in addition to the main elements, special parts made of non-combustible compounds, with which you can surround the chimney with a coating as tightly as possible and prevent the roof from heating from a hot chimney and possible fire. Thus, insulation also performs fire-fighting functions.

Even if the house does not have a fireplace or stove, and it is heated with a boiler, it still becomes necessary to purchase a sealant for the boiler in order to ensure good traction and stable operation of the heater.

Most sealants are packaged in cartridges or tubes with a sharp tip that must be cut at a 45° angle before starting work. It is important to make a hole of the same diameter as the future seam.

Squeeze out the sealant using a standard construction gun, evenly applying it to the desired sections of the chimney. If a collapsible stainless steel chimney is processed, then the composition is applied only to the joints, so that in the future it can be easily cleaned and disassembled for cleaning.

There are a few simple rules for working with sealants:

it is not recommended to seal pipes and other structural elements at temperatures below +5°C;
you need to work only with gloves, if the sealant gets on the skin, immediately rinse this place with running water;
the insulation composition requires at least a day to dry completely;
at the end of the work, you should light the stove or light the fireplace to check the quality of the work done.

The sealant must be used as follows:

Clean the surface where the sealant will be applied;
If the composition is heat-resistant, then it is better to treat the area with an abrasive to increase adhesion. If the surface is made of brick, you can make a few scratches on it for this purpose;
The place of application is degreased and dried (naturally or with a building hair dryer). Drying is needed only for silicone-based formulations, for applying heat-resistant ones, on the contrary, the surface needs to be moistened.

Next, cracks, crevices and joints are sealed: work must be done strictly with gloves, observing the thickness and width of the seam specified in the instructions. It is important to provide air access to the place of application of the composition: this is necessary for its high-quality hardening.

Sealing the chimney with cement

If there are silicone and silicate sealants for modern finishing materials, then in order to seal a slate roof, the method known to our grandfathers is suitable - a mixture based on asbestos and cement.

The chimney is sealed with cement as follows:

first, a mixture of cement and asbestos is prepared in a 1: 1 ratio. It is better to use fluffed asbestos, but you can also tear sheet into small pieces;
then asbestos is mixed with water and allowed to swell so that it turns into a homogeneous mass;
swollen asbestos is mixed with cement;
the resulting cement composition is coated with a gap between the pipe and the roof;
then you need to wait for the solution to dry completely, and you can heat the stove.

What factors influence the choice of sealant?

When choosing a suitable product for hydro and thermal insulation, they are guided by the conditions under which the stove, fireplace or heating boiler will be operated. It is also important to consider where exactly the product will be applied: inside the pipe, outside or at the junction of the chimney and the roof. It affects the choice of sealant and the heating temperature of the surface that is planned to be treated.

Watch video - stainless steel pipe after 2 years of operation (outer galvanized and inner stainless steel)

However, in any case, it is worth following the general recommendations that are true in all cases:

elastic means are better suited for hard-to-reach areas and joints subject to temperature deformations;
solid sealants are suitable for cracks and brickwork;
sealants containing iron oxide in their composition acquire a brown tint, which masks them well against the background of a brick;
for sealing a chimney made of metal, stainless steel or natural stone, brick, do not use acidic compounds that can damage the surface of the chimney of boilers or stove heating.

You should not save on chimney sealant, because forced regular cleanings, as well as the need to re-disassemble the structure, will bring much more costs, you won’t be able to save. In addition, a poor-quality sealant can lead to soot entering the living quarters, the formation of plaque on the walls, poisoning the residents, or even a fire.

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Do-it-yourself finishing of the chimney on the roof in 3 options

Many people think that finishing the chimney on the roof is needed only for beauty, this is partly true, but the aesthetic component is far from being in the first place here. Facing is needed, first of all, to protect the chimney, both from the inside and outside. Next, we will analyze the 3 most popular ways of arranging a chimney, plus you will find out why this is necessary and how to sheathe a pipe with your own hands.

Why trim the pipe

There are at least 3 reasons why it is necessary to finish the chimneys on the roof:

High temperatures, on the one hand, and cold air, on the other, cause condensate to settle on the inner surface of the pipe. But this is not just water, the condensate is an aggressive acidic cocktail that gradually corrodes the pipe. External insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulation and eliminates the appearance of condensate;

222222 If a solid clinker brick or stainless steel pipe was used for the construction of the chimney, then these materials are not afraid of weather troubles. While ordinary brick without external protection will begin to crumble in a couple of years, steel will rust and concrete will crack;
In addition to the strength of the chimney, there is also such an important point as the rain protection of the roof itself. If the sealing of the pipe connection sector with the roof was poorly done, then in a year the insulation will become unusable, and the wooden truss system will begin to deteriorate.

Standards and possible finishes

The chimney system, as, indeed, all furnace facilities, are important fire hazardous objects, respectively, all aspects of the arrangement are strictly regulated.

Norms and rules

All important points regarding the arrangement of heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems are described in detail in SNiP 41-01-2003. The work is quite voluminous, so I will retell only those rules that apply to chimneys:

The ignition temperature of the thermal insulation and finishing materials of the pipe should be 20 ºС higher than the maximum temperature of the chimney from the outside, but ideally it is desirable to line the chimney with non-combustible materials;
Sheathing the pipe with metal is allowed, but the metal must have an anti-corrosion coating;
The brick pipe must have walls with a thickness of 120 mm or more;
Concrete chimneys in private houses are rarely mounted, but if you decide to install such a pipe, then the concrete must be reinforced, heat-resistant and have a wall thickness of 60 mm or more;
The minimum gap between the chimney and the wooden roof sheathing is from 130 mm;
For ceramic chimneys not protected by thermal insulation, the gap between the pipe and the wooden roof structures is from 250 mm;

How to trim a chimney

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Clinker tiles. The above-mentioned clinker brick is a good thing, but expensive. Therefore, many lay out a pipe from ordinary bricks, and line it with clinker tiles on top. The material is able to withstand any vagaries of the weather, plus such tiles can be tiled not only in chimneys, but also in the stoves themselves inside the house.
	Plaster. The option is not as durable as clinker tiles, but if a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass or galvanized metal is fixed on the surface of the pipe, then the plaster will hold well. But keep in mind, not everyone is able to plaster the surface with their own hands while standing on the slope of the roof.
	Siding. For lining the chimney, you can use any type of siding, except for plastic. Both metal and cement siding work equally well for chimney liners. Moreover, this material is mounted on the crate, which means that it is possible to lay a heater under it.
	Decking. Finishing chimneys with corrugated board is now one of the most common. This option harmonizes especially well with metal tiles. But if you choose a color, then steel chimneys on roofs made of slate, ondulin or ceramic tiles will also fit into the overall design.
	bituminous tiles. Since the material is produced with the addition of bitumen, it is strictly forbidden to trim a real chimney with it. In this case, we can only talk about installing a decorative cocoon made of fire-resistant plywood around the pipe, on which bituminous tiles are stuffed. But this option is only suitable for sandwich pipes equipped with a spark arrester head.

Three options for self-arrangement of the chimney outside

There are 3 options where a person without special training can do everything with his own hands. The first option concerns brick pipes, which do not need lining, but you need to seal the joint with the roof. After that, there is a frame version and a version with ready-made factory solutions.

Option number 1: we equip a brick pipe

The waterproofing of the pipe on the roof must be carried out before laying the roofing material. If the roof is already lying, then it will have to be partially disassembled. The entire perimeter is removed by 50-70 cm around, plus you need to remove the lower part of the roof from the pipe to the edge of the slope.

Of the materials, we need a wall-mounted metal profile. It can be bent from galvanized steel with your own hands or bought ready-made. The profile consists of 4 parts, which are superimposed on each other during installation.

It is definitely better to buy an outer apron for a pipe, and it is advisable to buy it together with roofing material, it is easier to choose a color.

The so-called tie is a sheet of roofing iron with sides bent on the sides. It is laid from the bottom of the pipe to the edge of the slope and is brought under the lower section of the wall profile.

In order to hermetically connect a brick pipe with a wall profile, we need to cut a groove with a grinder on the pipe with a depth of about 20–30 mm. The bent edge of the profile is inserted into this strobe.

Next, we insert the bent edge of the profile into the strobe and fill the strobe with sealant. After that, we fix all 4 parts of the profile and a tie wound from below with self-tapping screws with press washers. Roofing material is laid on top of this entire structure.

The upper apron is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter. On the pipe, it must go at least 100 mm. The lower part of the apron is often made of soft bituminous materials. It is pressed around the corrugated roof and glued to this roof with mastic or special glue.

The scheme works something like this: the top apron removes the main amount of moisture from the pipe, but if this barrier did not cope with its task and moisture got under the roof, then the wall profile will collect it and the water will drain down the tie from the roof.

Option number 2: mounting the frame

This method is well suited for insulating and lining the chimney with corrugated board, siding and other similar materials. To begin with, the base is sheathed with a metal profile, later we will mount the corrugated board on it. The frame is best made from a wall profile for drywall, it is wider than the ceiling.

It is not difficult to work with a metal profile, but if you are not confident in your abilities, then you can build a frame from wooden bars. True, the wooden frame will need to be well impregnated with flame retardants, antiseptics and a water-repellent composition. Between the slats of the frame, to insulate the pipe, slabs of dense mineral wool are laid.

Decking or any other sheet material is screwed to the frame rails with self-tapping screws with press washers. The whole structure is crowned with an umbrella to protect against rain.

Option number 3: ready-made solutions

There are no problems with round pipes now. Special flexible aprons are produced for them. From experience, you can mount such an apron in a maximum of a couple of hours. Photo instructions for installing such an apron are given below.

Choose the pipe diameter you need and cut a hole in the soft polymer cone;
Pull the cone onto the pipe, the connection should be tight;
Compress the lower soft metal ring in the shape of the roof;
Thickly lubricate the perimeter under the ring with sealants;
Screw the ring to the roofing material with self-tapping screws with press washers.

Conclusion

It is rather problematic to talk in detail about all the methods of finishing chimneys in one publication, so I tried to pick up for you the 3 most affordable options for a home master. If after reading the article and watching the video in this article you still have questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

How can gaps be removed?
Sealing gaps between chimney and slate roof
We get rid of cracks on the roof, covered with tiles
bituminous roof waterproofing material
The process of eliminating gaps in the roof of corrugated board

The installation of a chimney is usually not a difficult process, however, in some places, for example, in transitions through floors, some difficulties may arise.

How and with what to close the gap between the pipe and the roof?

An important point is to ensure proper waterproofing. About this, and about other nuances related to how to close the chimney, we will talk in this article.

Even if the pipe on the roof is placed as tightly as possible, there will still be minor gaps. During rain, moisture will constantly get into the attic through them, which over time will lead to damage to roof structures. This is why roof pipe sealing is so important.

How can gaps be removed?

The easiest way to resolve the issue is how to close the gap between the pipe and the roof - install an apron on top. You can do it yourself, in which case you will need to provide in advance the strips for connecting to the pipe. There is an easier way - to buy a ready-made passage for a stainless steel roof. Often, round shaped passages are made for the chimney, and they are made of stainless steel. The passage is mounted on the pipe, and the junction is fixed with a steel clamp.

If you need to cover up the minor gaps formed between the pipe and the roof, then silicone sealant can be used for this purpose (read: "Which sealants for chimneys are better to use - types. characteristics"). On sale you can find a huge variety of them, but we need its heat-resistant appearance.

The process of how to close a roof around a round pipe will differ slightly depending on the type of roofing, that is, in addition to the basic recommendations, there are also algorithms that will differ somewhat.

Sealing gaps between chimney and slate roof

Sometimes the question arises of how to close the gap between the pipe and the slate.

The technology provides for the following sequence:

First, a round hole is cut in the steel sheet, which will be required to finish the ridge.
Next, a ring of sheet asbestos cement is put on the pipe.
For absolute sealing, so that in the future there will be no problems with the fact that the pipe is flowing on the roof, the joint of the pipe with the roof is sealed with asbestos-cement solution (proportion 1: 2).
In addition, the gap between the chimney and the slate sheet is filled with the same solution. To do this, for a while, you can make a limiter out of cardboard.

We get rid of cracks on the roof, covered with tiles

On a tile roof, it is best to seal the cracks with a solution of sand and cement, which will best protect the inside of the building from moisture and precipitation.

To achieve the best moisture insulation, you will need:

Install a galvanized collar on the roof, so there will be a place for pouring the solution.
Pour the cement mortar with sand, making sure that it clearly fills the entire space between the roof and the chimney.
In addition, you will need to make a surface, and place it at an angle so that excess liquid flows along it.

bituminous roof waterproofing material

Among the options for how to cover up a pipe on a roof if it rises above a bitumen roof, the most optimal is the use of Wakaflex self-adhesive tape.

Isolation can be done in this way:

First, cutting is performed from the Wakaflex tape.
At the next stage, this cutting must be pressed with a pipe case.
At the end, all remaining gaps between the parts to be joined are sealed with bituminous mastic.

The process of eliminating gaps in the roof of corrugated board

As a rule, when removing the chimney through the roof from the corrugated board, they use the ready-made pipe cutting Master Flash. Its advantage is also that it is very convenient to use such a set, it is applicable for roofing from almost any material.

In essence, Master Flash is an apron cap made of silicone or rubber, placed on an aluminum base.

As for the operating temperatures, the silicone version of the products has a much wider range - in the range from -50 to 130 ℃.

The process of sealing cracks on a profile roof includes the following manipulations:

A gap is cut in the cap, the diameter of which is slightly less than the cross section of the chimney.
The Master Flush is put on the chimney.
A gasket is laid at the base of the chimney.
The joints between the material are sealed with silicone sealant.
The base of the chimney is fixed on the profile roof with screws.

Often, the described manipulations do not provide sufficient tightness on the profile roof, so that during precipitation, water leaks into the gap. In such cases, the best option is to use a self-adhesive tape reinforced with aluminum. It is very convenient to use such material, since it does not need to be preheated before use.

Thus, the fact how well the corrugated roof will be sealed at the exit of the chimney depends largely on the choice of material and the quality of the work performed. However, we are sure that by following our instructions exactly and by working responsibly, you will be able to protect your home from any surprises associated with a roof leak.

Home Construction Leaking Roof, Roof Repair, Repair Tricks and Tips

How our joy is overshadowed when on the weekend, having crossed the threshold of our beloved dacha, hoping to enjoy the cheerful crackling of firewood in the fireplace, warm and clean air, we suddenly hear the treacherous: drip, drip, drip ...
The roof is leaking, we are horrified, rushing for a basin.
We substitute it under the drops with anguish watching what happened. The rest is spoiled, bad weather insidiously made its way into our house.
Leaking pipe on the roof

But maybe it's time to look at the problem from the other side? After all, rain, in a sense, is an indicator that signals malfunctions of the roof, which is the time to patch it up before the winter cold hit. It is he who helps to diagnose the places of leaks.

Often, before appearing on the surface, water makes a long and winding path, overcoming the sometimes complex structure of the roof.

Those who have a roof "simpler" - slate or metal with a traditional gable profile, find a crack or hole easier than owners of multi-profile tiled roofs, but in any case, attention and patience will be needed.

The most vulnerable places adjoining roofs to chimneys, bases of television antennas, as well as joints with protrusions of walls and windows.

The reason may also be a suddenly cracked tile or a hole in the slate, which appeared because the fixing nail has rusted or lifted.

When examine the roof from the attic, pay attention on any spots on the rafters and the crate - this is evidence that eloquently testifies to the place of the leak.

Remember visually or mark those places on the roof where, when the weather improves and repairs can be started, you can put your foot on without risking falling through.

After all, your own safety is no less important than the integrity of the roof.
Those who suffer from vertigo or are prone to dizziness are better off entrusting the work to professionals.

Never work on a wet or icy roof!

Put on your clothes, not constraining movements, and shoes with rubber soles.

Make sure the stairs was long enough and did not have to work on its highest step.

If on the roof ridge or rafters there are no special hooks for installing a ladder, fasten it with a special cable (a soft cable is suitable for towing a car).
Throw it over the ridge of the roof, fasten it to reliable beams and tie it with a sea knot.

In no case do not fasten the ladder and do not insure yourself by tying the cable around the chimney. It may not support the weight of your body if you fall.

Work with a partner, he will give the tools, and in which case he will insure.

If the damage is small(crack, slight displacement or hole), it is not difficult to seal them. Whatever your roof is - slate, metal, roofing felt or tiled.

Use for this, waterproof glue, resin, which are sold in specialized stores, or putty on drying oil, bought or prepared independently.

Due to the high material consumption, larger damages are usually repaired bituminous(price RUB 41.50/kg) or cement mastic (33 rubles / kg).

The last two materials, after drying, are primed and reinforced with paint on top.

For waterproofing and sealing roof joints bituminous mastic is the most popular remedy.
Alternative options are ready-made roof coverings containing bitumen, or more expensive, but more reliable strips made of stainless metals - stainless steel, aluminum, etc.

On sale there are also self-adhesive strips with aluminum foil, the reverse side of which has adhesive (adhesive) properties (roller 12.5 m long, 8 cm wide - 2557.50 rubles).
For a while, you can seal the joints with a simple putty.

at first thoroughly clean the area of damage from dirt, rust or lichen (it can be destroyed by dousing with boiling water). Only when the area to be sealed is dry, apply the chosen material.

Damage that is more extensive in area is eliminated with the help of patches from various self-adhesive materials sold in stores, and home-made ones - from metal, roofing felt, tarpaulin, or any dense waterproof fabric.

When repairing metal surfaces, patches from the same metal are applied and mastics containing bitumen are used.

To prevent corrosion, new insulation or nails used for fixing patches should be of the same metal as the old ones.

Close the edges carefully: for reliability and aesthetics, cover the patch with a waterproof coating on top. They come in a variety of colors - white, terracotta, green, gray, etc.

A "home-grown" patch of waterproof fabric is placed on putty on drying oil or paint, and after the latter has dried, it is dyed.

In any case, the patches should cover the area of the repaired area from all sides by 6-10 cm.

When you replace broken roof tiles, or slate sheet, or rusted metal strip, trying to stick to two important principles.

The first- the replacement material in size and quality must be an exact copy of the previous one.

Second- It is necessary to affect the neighboring elements of the coating as little as possible.

With deep holes in "puff" roofing roofs, the damaged layers are usually cut crosswise and the corners are turned away, after which they are cleaned, dried, primed, puttied (with bituminous mastic with the addition of sand, sawdust, etc.) and glued back.

They complete the work with one or more patches of roofing material, each of which should be approximately 10 cm larger than the previous one. They are tarred and sprinkled with sand or gravel, marble chips for strength.

By the way, getting started with ruberoid, the working side must be cleaned of the powder that covers the sheets so that they do not stick together during transportation.

Save on materials, you run the risk of discovering that a "cheap" roofing material is not worth much. After all, a solid crate is needed under it, and every year it needs to be treated with mastic.

And having spent on tile, you will get rid of the hassle for many years. And over time, it will be able to become your "road" not only in the financial sense.

Don't Forget to Take Care of Your Roof. In a word, make sure that the climate in the house is under your control.

In emergency work, not only skill is required, but also a good memory. After all what you do temporarily, then it is desirable to redo "forever"

Take your time, hearing the sound of drops on the floor, climb onto the roof. It is better to listen to the music of the rain for a while than to heal broken bones for a long, long time.

Do not neglect the technical innovations - stainless steel roofing nails, nail remover. The first will save you from problems in the future, the second will greatly facilitate the work.