Roof passage for chimney. Correct passage of the chimney through the roof: rules for arranging penetrations for different types of chimneys

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How to independently arrange the passage of a pipe through the roof in a private house or bath

In the process of building any house, there always comes a time when it is necessary to bring a chimney or ventilation pipes through the roof, there is no way without it. Some owners do not attach much importance to this process, however, mistakes made during the arrangement of the docking station can lead to serious negative consequences. In this article I will tell you how to independently bring pipes through the attic floor and different types of roofs.

What can a bad installation lead to?

In most cases, stove makers and ventilation equipment specialists are engaged exclusively in the installation of their sector. Pipe passages through the wall, interfloor overlap and roof do not touch them. People do not want to hire a professional and take on the job themselves. As a result, after a short period of time, a whole bunch of problems can “emerge”.

When you hire a specialist, it is better to immediately specify the moment of arranging transitions through structures.
Sometimes it’s easier to pay a little more to an experienced person than to puzzle over how it’s all right and beautiful to do with your own hands.

• The materials from which chimneys are made are quite hardy, they can easily withstand temperature changes, but these materials are often not designed for constant contact with moisture. For example, or an asbestos-cement pipe, having been saturated with moisture, will simply begin to crumble and after a couple of seasons it will look like it was eaten by mice;
• Again, due to high humidity, this sector from the inside will be intensively overgrown with soot. therefore, you will have to clean the chimney much more often;
• But this is not the worst. In most cases, the roof is now insulated with basalt or glass wool.. Once such a heater gets wet, it, firstly, becomes useless, and secondly, it sits down and is no longer restored. Drying cotton wool is pointless, it only needs to be changed;
• Do not forget that almost all roofs are made on the basis of a wooden frame.. Whatever you impregnate the wood with, but if the structures are constantly in a humid environment, then sooner or later, they will begin to rot. Water sharpens a stone, what can we say about a tree;

• There is one more moment I will explain it with an example. One of my acquaintances finished building a house in the fall and, since the weather had already begun to noticeably deteriorate, he patched up the passage through the roof of the chimney at random, in the hope that everything would be fixed in the spring.

Imagine his surprise when on New Year's holidays the chimney through the ceiling of which was decorated in a pompous and very expensive Baroque style, covered with red wet spots and the stucco molding began to fall off. And all this happened because the joint of the roof was not tight enough.

After the furnace was flooded, the snow around the pipe melted, water flowed through the pipe and completely spoiled the luxurious interior, the cost of which was ten times higher than the services of the most expensive roofer.

Where is the best place to run pipes?

Of course, when the house was built a long time ago and you are only repairing the roof, nothing can be changed. But at the design stage, you have the opportunity to choose the optimal location for the pipe outlet.

Any stove-maker will tell you that it is best to mount the pass-through node in the ridge. But this is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, snow or rain will never leak under the pipe, plus the chimney located above the ridge provides optimal traction. On the other hand, you will have to pretty tinker with the arrangement of the truss system, because breaking a horizontal ridge beam is a rather complicated matter.

The minimum distance from the chimney to the rafters or load-bearing beams according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003 should be 140 - 250 mm.

• It is usually recommended to slightly move the chimney to either side relative to the ridge. Moreover, if the pipe is located at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, then it should rise above it to a height of 50 cm;
• If the distance from the ridge to the passage node fluctuates around 1.5 - 3 m, then the height of the pipe can be made flush with the ridge;
• When the roof is shed or the distance from the ridge beam to the passage unit is more than 3 m, it is allowed to install the top point of the pipe along a line passing at an angle of 10º relative to the horizon along the ridge. To make it easier for you to understand, below is a diagram.

The most undesirable place for installing chimney and ventilation pipes is their location in the "valley". For those who do not know, an enodic angle is called an internal corner, which is formed by connecting two roof slopes. This does not threaten ordinary classical structures, such an arrangement can be found on multi-level roofs with a complex configuration.

If you are faced with a case where your chimney pipe passage through the roof is in the “valley”, then it is better to try to make an extra knee and move the pipe half a meter to the side.

For the so-called sandwich structures, from which most of the chimneys for boilers and bath stoves are now made, this will not be difficult. Otherwise, water will constantly attack your connecting node from three sides and sooner or later a leak will occur.

Self-installation of passages through the roof or ceiling

If earlier the roofs were mostly covered with slate, now it is increasingly being replaced by metal tiles and other modern roofing materials. Plus, in addition to the passage through the roof, you also need to take care of the transitions through the ceiling.

Elastic transition block as the easiest way out

A good half of modern chimneys and almost all ventilation outlets are now made round. It is just under such designs that elastic adapters are produced.

Such an adapter is a multi-stage funnel with a square or round base. A heat-resistant, elastic polymer is used as the main material.

Each step on the funnel corresponds to one of the running diameters of the chimney. In order for the pipe to fit snugly, you only need to cut the adapter with scissors to the level you need.

Hermetic fixation of the soft polymer base (flange) to the roof itself is carried out with metal studs and bolts. Such a flange can take any shape, so it easily bends around the complex relief of roofing.

The price for such a product is quite acceptable, plus the installation instructions, in my opinion, are more than simple. As I said, first you need to cut the cone to the desired diameter. After that, it is necessary to lubricate the place where the adapter joins the pipe and the lower, contact part of the flange with a heat-resistant sealant. Then you just have to screw the flange with metal studs through the pre-drilled holes to the lower flange ring.

Insulated sandwich chimneys are distinguished by their mirror shine. If you do not like the elastic polymer adapter, then for such cases there are metal adapters made from the same stainless steel. They differ from the polymer counterpart in the large dimensions of the apron, a given angle of inclination of the roof and a well-defined chimney diameter.

Metal adapter.

The installation of such stainless steel adapters differs from the previous version only in that, in addition to a heat-resistant sealant, a metal clamp is additionally used for the hermetic connection of the adapter and the pipe.

Arrangement of a passage through a metal tile

I want to immediately note that it’s quite difficult to correctly make the passage of a pipe through a metal tile without experience, therefore, after studying the instructions and viewing the thematic photos and videos in this article, you should think carefully about whether you are capable of such a labor feat.

The connecting unit consists of an internal main and an external decorative apron. Experienced roofers usually make the inner apron from tin or thin aluminum sheet. We have already mentioned round pipes, so further we will talk about sealing the junction of the roof with square or rectangular brick pipes.

The inner apron is installed directly on the crate even before laying the metal tile. The design consists of 4 parts, according to the number of pipe planes. Each of these parts should go under the metal tile layer by at least 250 - 300 mm. It enters the pipe by 150 - 250 mm, again from the metal tile layer.

Before installing the elements of the apron along the perimeter of the pipe at the same level, parallel to the roof, a grinder cuts a strobe with a depth of 10 - 15 mm. We will insert the upper cut of the apron into it.

Before inserting the elements of the apron into the strobe, it is cleaned, washed with water, dried and filled with a heat-resistant sealant. Only sealant should be filled right before installing the protective elements.

On the plates themselves, along the upper cut, the side is bent at 90º to the depth of the strobe. Personally, I made it easier, I immediately inserted the sheets into the strobe and, tapping with a hammer, bent them down parallel to the pipe.

We finish the installation of the apron by attaching it to the pipe with special heat-resistant dowels and soldering the joints between all four elements. But that's not all, from below on the roof substrate under the apron, the so-called tie is wound up and fastened. This is a sheet of the same tin or aluminum, the width of which must exceed the dimensions of the pipe by at least half a meter on each side.

It should go down the substrate to the edge of the roof. The tie is a kind of insurance, if somewhere the decorative lining starts to leak, water will flow down the tie under the metal tile. As a result, the roofing cake will remain dry.

When the inner apron and tie are finally fixed to the pipe and roof sheathing, you can start laying the metal tile itself. At the end, a decorative apron is mounted. Each of the metal tile manufacturers produces its own additional elements and makes them to match the color of the roof.

Such aprons, as a rule, are corrugated aluminum or lead sheet, on the back of which a self-adhesive coating is applied. From above, such an apron is equipped with a decorative strip, which is fixed on the pipe with self-tapping screws. But before fixing, it is desirable to additionally coat the joint with a heat-resistant one.

The upper bar of the decorative apron is attached just above the border of the lower main apron, after fixing it, the apron itself is carefully tapped with a rubber mallet so that the corrugated sheet fits well and sticks to the complex surface of the metal tile.

The arrangement of transitions with soft modern roofing materials is carried out in approximately the same way, with the only difference being that they often do without installing a tie.

The main mistake of amateurs is that they often neglect the installation of the main lower apron and tie, the decorative upper apron holds, of course, well, but the thin, soft aluminum corrugation barrier is not very reliable and can be easily damaged, for example, by a branch that has fallen from a tree .

How to protect a wooden base from a hot chimney

As you remember, according to the standards of SNiP 41-03-01-2003, the minimum distance from the chimney to any wooden structures starts from 140 mm. Sandwich elements are considered the most “advanced” in this regard, but even there the insulation has a maximum thickness of only 100 mm.

We conclude that all chimneys must be protected when passing through wooden roof structures or wooden floors.

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of the bath is the most striking illustration of this topic, since the baths in our great power are usually made of wood. It is also worth adding that the temperature in sauna stoves is often higher than in conventional ones.

It is believed that in order for dry wood to begin to char, it needs only 200ºС. And when the temperature reaches 300ºС, there is a real danger of self-ignition.
If we take into account that birch firewood gives temperatures up to 500ºС, and when using good coal or coke, the temperature can rise above 700ºС, then the extent of the danger becomes clear.

When arranging such transitions, you can go in two ways, buy a special transition block or do it yourself.

Now the industry produces a variety of ceiling passage units (PPU). In expensive designs of this kind, a special reinforced box is provided, which comes with insulation, filler and other fittings. But as far as I have come across, our man does not want to pay money for such amenities, and in this, I agree with him.

The fact is that the design itself is not particularly complicated and here, as is often the case with us, it is cheaper to buy everything separately. First, I will tell you what the classic instruction looks like for such an arrangement, and then I will tell you how I made the pipe pass through the ceiling of the bath with my own hands:

• In almost any construction market, you can now find special metal boxes with a hole already cut out for a certain diameter of the chimney;
• In the horizontal plate of such a box, which is also part of the ceiling, mounting holes for self-tapping screws are made around the perimeter. But you can’t immediately mount the structure on a “bare” wooden ceiling. Its edges must first be overlaid with a non-combustible heat insulator. Most often, asbestos cloth is used for these purposes;
• The dimensions of the vertical walls of the box are selected in the same way so that an asbestos sheet can be fixed between them and the through hole;

• From the inside, the vertical walls of the box are supposed to be lined with foil basalt wool 30 - 50 mm thick, of course it costs more than usual, but this is the instruction;
• Absolutely clearly, without the slightest gap, it is almost impossible to select holes in the box for the chimney, even if there is a small gap, but it will still be. Here it is supposed to be covered with heat-resistant sealant;
• Further, the space between the foiled basalt wool and the chimney is filled with expanded clay or the same wool, only soft and uncoated. This is enough for a non-residential attic floor, but if the bath is an attic type, and there is a rest room on the second floor, then the top box must be covered with a mineralite slab (a heat-resistant and safer analogue of asbestos) or the same stainless steel plate.

Now, as I promised, I will tell you about my own experience in arranging such a transition. The bath was made a long time ago, and then these convenient devices simply did not exist. Sandwich designs at that time cost fabulous money, so an ownerless cast-iron pipe was installed as a chimney.

A square hole in the wooden ceiling was cut out so that there was at least 250 mm between the chimney and the wood in all directions. I immediately stuffed an asbestos sheet onto the vertical walls of the niche.

A three-millimeter sheet of stainless steel was hemmed from below. I wanted to hem a ten-millimeter asbestos-cement slab, but I was afraid that it would burst from the temperature, although my neighbor hemmed it and is still standing.

I wrapped the pipe in the box with an asbestos sheet and caulked the gap with clay on top of it. And from above, all this economy was covered with expanded clay of medium diameter. On the second floor of the bath, I decided to make a rest room, but at that time I did not have a second similar stainless steel sheet.

Then I mixed a cement-lime mortar based on expanded clay sand and poured a thirty-millimeter screed reinforced with wire rod. Only the screed was not poured close to the cast-iron pipe, but through a gasket made of asbestos cloth, otherwise it would simply crack with temperature fluctuations.

Conclusion

As you can see, you can make a passage through the roof of the chimney with your own hands. But still, if you decide to invest in a quality coating of metal tiles or other similar materials, I recommend that you first carefully study the available methods. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to answer.

July 28, 2016

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For comfortable year-round living, a country house must have a heating system. Regardless of its type, whether it is gas or wood burning, combustion products are removed through a chimney pipe, which is led out through the roof of the house. The main purpose of the roof cut around the chimney is to protect the roof from leaks and overheating. About how to perform the whole range of work correctly and avoid gross mistakes at the same time, later in our article.

roof pipe sealing

Sealing the chimney on the roof is carried out taking into account the shape of the pipe and the relief of the roofing:

• For a rectangular and square design, a metal apron is suitable;
• For round exits, flexible rubber or polymer penetrations are often used;
• Sandwich pipes are equipped with a metal cone fixed at an angle on a steel apron;
• Slate or metal tiles are equipped with lead adjoining strips or the Master Flash system.

Places where the pipe passes through the roof

There is a pattern - the lower the pipe is placed along the slope of the roof, the more effort will be required to waterproof the joint between the chimney and the roof.

Roofs made of profiled sheets are equipped with pipes in the following areas:

• Near the skate. According to SNiP 41-01-2003, bringing the device near the ridge will reduce the likelihood of snow pockets and condensation.
• Insulation of the chimney on the slope. The passage of the chimney at a distance of 500-700 mm. from the roof ridge reduces the risk of leakage and preserves the truss structure. Elastic penetrations or additional elements of the apron will help protect the joint.

Structural elements of the junction of the roof to the chimney

When planning to make a chimney pass through the roof with your own hands, start with a wooden box.

1. Select the bars corresponding to the thickness of the floor beams (minimum 5-10 cm), and measure the length that increases the size of the pipe by 15-25 cm.
2. Connect the boards to form a square or rectangular structure (corresponding to the shape of the chimney), attach to the horizontal and vertical floor beams.
3. Prepare additional materials: top and bottom apron, tie (a long smooth sheet with a flanging to drain rainwater), sealant.
4. The junction strips forming the apron are installed on the sides, top and bottom. An internal apron is placed under the roofing material to drain water. A tie is laid under it with a length equal to the distance of the lower apron to the eaves. External junction strips perform decorative functions, and prevent moisture from entering the area where the chimney passes through the roof.
5. Basalt wool will help close the hole around the pipe and floor beams. The distance between the concrete and brick chimney, relative to the elements of the rafter system, is 13 cm, a clearance of 25 cm is left from the ceramic non-insulated pipe, and 13 cm in the presence of a heat-insulating layer.
6. The gap between the pipe and combustible material is covered with sheet metal. The tightness of the roof is provided by a special film, which is cut through with an envelope, and the edges are fixed on the outer part of the pipe, a wooden box.

Organizing the output of a round pipe, it is enough to choose an elastic sealant, eliminating the need for additional waterproofing protection around the penetration.

Cutting on a skate

A smooth metal apron and decorative embedding of slate or corrugated board will allow water to be diverted from the smoke system passing through the ridge.

1. Lay a tin sheet (tie) near the pipe, brought under the roofing.
2. Fix the bottom, then the side and top junction bar.
3. Fill the joints near the pipe with a silicone-based sealant.
4. Press the top strips of the apron.

Walking on the slope

When arranging a small penetration, fix a gutter on the roof slope.

Cutting for pipes with a width of more than 80 cm will require the creation of a slope on the roof slope to drain water coming from above to the center of the chimney.

From above, two short valleys (grooves) are formed. The lower valley plank is installed at the joints of negative angles, protecting against water ingress into the under-roof space. It is placed before laying sheets of corrugated board. The top bar is purely decorative.

Bypass truss system

A high-quality adjoining of the roof to the chimney pipe is possible if there is a rigid crate that allows you to evenly distribute the load. The chimney is usually installed before the rafter system is strengthened.

If the withdrawal is carried out later, it is important to provide a distance from the rafters of more than 20 cm, otherwise it will be necessary to dismantle the crate, weakening the overall system.

1. Install support posts under the elements of the rafter frame, cut off the ceilings and connect them to the whole rafters using horizontal jumpers.
2. Arrange a reliable frame around the chimney, firmly connected to the rafter system and roof sheathing.

The passage of the chimney through the roof of the metal tile

Waterproofing a chimney on a metal roof requires the preparation of the following tools and materials:

• construction pencil or marker;
• drill and a set of drills;
• grinder with a 2 mm disc;
• silicone sealant;
• riveter;
• aluminum tapes and collars;
• metal corners;
• roofing screws;
• long ruler or tape measure;
• pliers and hammer.

Tools and materials needed for work

Bypassing the chimney on a metal roof provides for the creation of two protective layers, which are done as follows:

1. An inner apron is assembled on the crate, covering the roof and chimney.
2. Prepare the outer decorative strips covering the roofing material and the bottom apron.

If the smoke system is located near the ridge, then the edge of the upper bar is inserted under the ridge element.

The arrangement of the internal apron begins with the bottom wall of the riser.

1. Each element covers the slope by 200 mm and rises along the vertical of the ventilation structure to a height of 150 mm.
2. The side strips go under the crest of the metal tile, cover the lower element of the apron along the entire length, go beyond the pipe by 20 cm.
3. All parts are firmly connected with self-tapping screws.
4. 15 cm are measured on the pipe, a grinder is made with a strobe 15 mm deep.
5. Next, the ditch is filled with silicone sealant, after which the lower abutment bar is fixed.

Important! The top part of the apron should fit snugly into the groove filled with sealant.

It remains to lay the roofing material and attach the upper strips to the chimney with self-tapping screws, fill the sealing line with waterproofing mastic.

Cutting for round pipes: metal penetration

The sealing of a round chimney will help to carry out a ready-made apron-cap, represented by a metal sheet with a hole, closed by an inclined truncated cone.

1. The sheet is attached to the crate, the pipe is passed through the cap, the upper part of which is pressed against the chimney with a steel clamp with a heat-resistant gasket.
2. Wanting to direct the flow of water down, a side is made along the edge of the sheet with pliers and a hammer.

Interesting to know! An apron for a round chimney is made of black steel 1-3 mm thick. They cover the metal with heat-resistant enamel that can withstand heat up to 600 degrees. It is also possible to manufacture stainless steel parts with a maximum thickness of 2 mm.

Sealing the junction of the roof and pipes with the Master Flash system

Master Flash- these are elastic penetrations made in the form of a stepped pyramid with an aluminum or soft lead base. The design withstands the operating temperature range of 50°C (+ 130°C), and is easily adjusted to the roof slope.

Installation of the elastic node of the passage through the roof is carried out in the following order:

1. Choose a seal ring with a gap of 20% less than the diameter of the ventilation system.
2. The seal is pulled along the pipe, pre-moistened with soapy water.
3. The hood is fixed with sealant and screws equipped with neoprene or rubber gaskets. Pitch - 35 mm.

Important point! Elastic penetrations with a flexible lead or aluminum ring are equipped with an adhesive layer under a protective film. To enhance fixation, use an additional adhesive composition.

Aluminum and lead tapes

An alternative to ready-made penetrations is the waterproofing of the chimney with self-adhesive aluminum / lead tape based on bitumen or modified polymers. It allows you to seal the joints of the pipe and the roof.

Pipe waterproofing with self-adhesive tape is done in several stages:

1. Clean the tape application area, then press the film firmly.
2. Paste the vertical part of the chimney with segments, covering the horizontal roofing at the same time.
3. Clamp the tape with a metal bar and fix with heat-resistant dowels.

Pipe sealing tape is a great way to save time and money

Sealing of rectangular and square pipes

To ensure the reliability of the roof in the places of valleys and junctions, a tie made of metal parts (adjacent strips) that lead under the coating by 150-200 mm will help.

The joints of the apron with the profiled sheet around the chimney are sealed with roofing sealant. Eaves are installed from below and on the sides, directing the flow of precipitation onto the roof slope.

Before laying corrugated board, it is necessary to seal the riser passage with a membrane.

1. A cross-shaped cut is made in the material, and glued to the walls of the chimney at a height of more than 5 cm.
2. A self-adhesive Wakaflex tape is attached under the upper junction bar: from below, from the side, then from above.

• Sometimes a chimney is arranged in the finished roof, cutting a hole in the corrugated board with a margin of 1.5-2 cm. To do this, the metal sheet at the junction of the rectangular pipe is bent, the waterproofing membrane is glued and the lower, then the upper crate is installed, tightly pressed against the roofing cake and chimney.

Pipe plastering

To avoid the formation of a thick layer of plaster, you should know how to properly insulate pipes:

1. To begin with, seal all existing irregularities on the pipe with cement mortar;
2. Then cover the walls with reinforcing mesh;
3. The final step is the application of plaster.

Important! Before covering the first layer, bring the solution of lime, cement and slag chips (or sand) to the density of sour cream, spray without leveling. The second coating is denser, it is applied with a trowel, rubbing until a smooth surface is obtained.

Strengthening the pipe with asbestos cement

Sheathing the chimney with asbestos cement requires the use of a cement-lime mixture applied to the surface of the slabs.

1. The chimney is reinforced with a mesh and the first layer of the solution is sprayed.
2. A new layer of the mixture is applied to the pieces of insulation and attached to the surface of the chimney.

Asbestos contains carcinogens that are dangerous to humans, so experts do not recommend using it in residential areas.

Sheet metal sheathing

When insulating a metal pipe, the distance of the chimney from combustible materials should be observed - 60 cm.

1. The structure is wrapped with mineral wool 5 cm thick with an overlap, clamped with steel wire. The top is wrapped with a metal sheet.
2. Rivets are inserted into the pre-prepared gaps, the heads of the clamps are closed with a special tool.

What is the goal

When preparing drawings, it is important to provide for a direct location of the pipe coming from the furnace.

• The maximum heating temperature of the outer wall of the chimney should not exceed 50 degrees.
• Waterproofing a brick chimney on the roof allows you to comply with established standards, and metal elements will require additional insulation to prevent condensation.

After the installation of the pipe, it is enough to carry out plastering followed by laying of millite silica, heat-insulating wool MKRR-130 or rolled felt MKRF-100.

Chimney fire protection

Today, ready-made "sandwich" panels made of steel or ceramics are on sale. Their installation is as follows:

1. To install a modular system, an asbestos gasket is carried out between the furnace and the chimney.
2. Then a layer of solution is applied on which the module is placed. Align the level, fix the subsequent blocks with a layer of mortar.
3. The places where the smoke device passes through the roof are well insulated. Fire-resistant insulation of the roof will be provided by a galvanized steel box, stapled to the rafters and cross beams at the point where the pipe passes.

Pipe waterproofing

Quick and reliable protection of the chimney from leakage is carried out by applying roll materials.

The main stages of installation work:

1. The pipe is coated with a primer, pasted over with a superdiffusion membrane. Instead of a primer, it is possible to use polymer-bitumen mastic. The membrane is glued to the roof, the edges lead to the pipe.
2. The upper and lower ties are made of metal. Bars are stuffed onto the crate and the corners are fixed.
3. The rolled material is overlapped, allowing you to achieve the correct flow of water on a soft or metal roof. The length of the bottom sheet reaches the overhang of the roof.
4. Joints are isolated with bituminous mastic. The corners are attached to the crate with dowels. Slots are treated with a heat-resistant sealant.
5. The roofing is laid, a PVC apron is placed on top, using Onduflash tape, sealing is completed.

Repairing a leak on a roof near a pipe

A pipe is flowing on the roof of the house - bitumen tape, a polymer cap or a tin apron will fix the problem.

Bitumen tape insulation takes place in 5 steps:

1. With a metal brush, clean the roof around the chimney along the outer lower part.
2. A damp cloth removes dust and dirt.
3. At the junction of the pipe and the roofing cake, pieces of bitumen tape are glued.
4. The segments are heated with a gas burner, pressed as tightly as possible to the roof and chimney.
5. Wooden bars or boards are fixed from above. The service life of the tape is 2-3 years.

Polymer cuffs reliably protect the junction of the roof with an oval pipe and do not cause any particular difficulties during installation:

1. In the upper section of the cuff, a cutout is made with a diameter less than the thickness of the chimney.
2. Put on the outer part of the riser, lowered to the level of the roof.
3. In places where the roof comes into contact with the menzhet, a protective layer of sealant is used.

Polymer pipe collars are a great and inexpensive way to protect your roof from leaks.

Creating metal bends

To protect against water, a tin apron with parameters similar to the dimensions of the pipe is put on the chimney pipe. The upper part of the coating is fixed to the vertical structure, crimped with clamps and sealed. The lower part of the apron is installed on the roof over the roof sheathing and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Special “layouts” will also help prevent the penetration of water into the ceiling - wide metal strips with a side edge that seals the gap between the top layer of the roofing cake and the pipe. Layouts are placed between the ridge and the passage of the pipe, covered from all sides.

The cost of material and work

The cost of services for the installation and repair of roof penetrations, depending on the volume or complexity of work, is 450-850 rubles / m2.

Material name	Price
Self-adhesive strip with aluminum foil 12.5 m long, 8 cm wide	2500-3000 rub.
Bituminous mastic	50 rubles/kg
cement mastic	40 rubles/kg
Apron	100 rub./m linear
Elastic penetration Master Flush for pipe termination	1500 rub.
Flange	500-800 rub.

Roof cutting of the chimney- an important stage of construction, requiring the correct selection of materials and compliance with the sequence of operations.

By waterproofing the junction of the roof to the chimney system, you should ensure maximum safety and comfort, without fires and leakage.

Installing a pipe on a roof is an operation that requires a special approach. In this article, we will consider questions about how the chimney should pass through the roof in order to comply with the norms of SNiP, as well as to protect the structure from moisture penetration and the possibility of fire.

A well-made chimney passage through the roof is a guarantee of a long service life of the stove and roof Source houseinform.ru

Chimney installation rules

If the house has a stove, then a chimney is also needed. Although instead of a furnace there may be a special tank that runs on gas. In any case, the house is somehow heated, and the products of combustion must be removed. There are several options for removing the pipe through the roof, related to determining the location. It is planned when the project of the house is being developed. The place is considered relative to the roof ridge - a horizontal rib, which is located where two slopes meet. The pipe can be mounted:

directly in the skate;

away from the skate.

The first and second options have their pros and cons. On the one hand, it is easier to install a chimney in a ridge. But this is for someone who deals with this particular issue. And for arranging the truss system, this is more difficult, because you have to make a gap in the horizontal beam. On the other hand, when the pipe is in the ridge, it guarantees good traction. And the possibility of leakage under it is minimized here. But still, most often the chimney is shifted relative to the ridge.

Chimney offset relative to the roof ridge Source katlavan.ru

In this case, you must comply with the following building codes:

If the chimney on the roof is installed at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from the ridge, then the pipe must be 0.5 m higher than it.

When it is installed at a distance of 1.5 m to 3 m from the ridge, it is done with it on the same level.

When the pipe is at a distance of more than 3 m from the ridge, it may be lower than it, but not more than 10 °.

The best option for the location of the pipe relative to the ridge is not far from it. If you make the chimney much lower, the risk of damage by falling snow increases.

To ensure good traction, it is necessary to adhere to certain standards for the placement of the chimney relative to the roof ridge Source rekvartira.ru

There is a place where it is generally not recommended to install a pipe - a valley. This is the inner corner that two slopes of a complex roof form when connected. There is always an increased load on it, since precipitation flows there and snow lingers. With such an installation, the possibility of a violation of waterproofing is very high. This means that there will be leaks.

Protecting the roof from heat coming from the pipe

When organizing the passage of a pipe through the roof, it is important to isolate the roof from it. After all, the pipe is very hot, which increases the degree of fire hazard. The roof is protected with a separate box, the beams and rafters of which are located taking into account the requirements of SNiP. The norm for the minimum distance from the chimney to the supporting beams and rafters is from 130 to 250 mm. The inside of the box is filled with some material that does not burn. For example, it can be basalt or stone wool.

The chimney must never touch the roofing directly. Source barmanlive.ru

Further organization of the output of the pipe depends on what shape it is and what it is made of. The shape of the chimney can be made either as an ordinary square or round, or in the form of a rectangle or oval. And the pipes are brick, metal, asbestos-cement or ceramic. The material from which the roof is made is also taken into account. It can be slate, metal tile, corrugated board, ondulin, roofing felt or shingles. Each case has its own characteristics.

Video description

The consequences of improper installation can be seen in the video:

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing stoves and fireplaces. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Round pipe installation

Often in construction, a round section of the chimney is used. To hold a round pipe through the roof and fix it hermetically on it, special flexible adapters are used. They are made of heat-resistant polymer with elastic properties. In appearance, such an adapter looks like a funnel, at the base of which there may be a circle or a square. The base is called an apron, it is made in the form of wide fields. Since the material is elastic, it easily takes on a variety of configurations. Therefore, it has a wide range of applications. Such adapters can be used on roofs with any coating and slope angle.

The exit of the round pipe through the onduline roof Source nashaotdelka.ru

The main thing is to choose an adapter that will fit the pipe in diameter. Although there are universal options for such products. They are made in the form of a stepped pyramid. To adjust their size along the pipe, the excess is simply cut off with scissors. Elastic adapters are attached to the roof with bolts or metal studs. They are installed in the holes on the flange, which presses the adapter to the roof. The space between the flange and the roof surface is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperature extremes.

Universal adapter for passing a round pipe through the roof Source pinterest.it

Features of the sandwich chimney

A variation of round pipes is a sandwich chimney. It consists of two pipes of different diameters, between which there is a heat-resistant thermal insulation material. They are made from stainless steel. A sandwich chimney is in great demand, as it provides stable traction, does not heat up, is easy to install and looks beautiful on the outside.

The passage through the roof of a sandwich chimney can also be made using an elastic adapter. However, it may not be in harmony with its mirror surface. In this case, a metal adapter is used, the material of which is also stainless steel. It is not flexible, so the diameter of the pipe and the angle of the roof slope must be taken into account.

Video description

The passage of the sandwich chimney through the roof is shown in the video:

A feature of the organization of the passage of a sandwich chimney is the installation of PPU - a ceiling-through unit. This device protects all wooden elements through which the chimney passes from high temperatures. It is a metal structure with a certain diameter through which a pipe must be passed. The material of its manufacture is galvanized steel or minerite. The inner surface of the node is laid out with thermal insulation.

Ceiling-through unit for a round pipe Source plamia.by

On our site you can familiarize yourself with the most. In the filters, you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.

Passage through metal roofing

The metal tile represents sheets from steel, copper or aluminum which are covered with a polymeric layer. In appearance, they resemble natural tiles, which are folded in even rows. This roofing material is very popular. If a round pipe is passed through the metal tile, flexible adapters are used, which we have already talked about. With the option of a square or quadrangular brick pipe, a different method is used. It is as follows:

A connector is being made. It consists of two aprons - internal (main) and external (decorative). The material of manufacture is a thin aluminum sheet or tin.

Before the metal tile is laid, an internal apron is installed on the crate. These are 4 strips located on 4 sides of the pipe. They simultaneously go under the metal tile (no less than 250 mm) and on the pipe (no less than 150 mm).

The elements of the apron are installed in a strobe - a groove that is cut along the perimeter of the pipe to a depth of 10 to 15 mm. The gate is cleaned and filled with fire-resistant sealant.

To install the apron, a special strobe must be made in the pipe Source experttrub.ru

The apron is attached to the pipe with heat-resistant dowels. The joints between the four planks are soldered. On the slats that are on the sides, bumpers are made, the purpose of which is to divert water down.

The lower part of the apron is mounted on the so-called tie - a sheet of metal with sides. This ensures that water is drained from the chimney to the bottom of the roof. The width of the tie must be greater than that of the pipe by at least 0.5 m on both sides. Its length depends on the distance from the pipe to the edge of the roof.

After installing the tie and the inner apron, the metal tile is laid.

From above, an external apron is mounted. It is usually a corrugated sheet of lead or aluminum. In its upper part there is a decorative strip. It is attached to the pipe with self-tapping screws. The attachment point is slightly higher than the parts of the inner apron. Before fixing the decorative strips, the attachment points are coated with sealant. To attach the corrugated sheet, its back side is provided with a self-adhesive coating.

Finished chimney through a metal tile Source tproekt.com

Installing a chimney through corrugated board

Decking is a sheet of metal produced by cold rolling and then profiled. It is mainly made of steel, but can be copper and aluminum. The sheet has ribs of oval, square, trapezoid or polygonal shape. A special coating is made on top, which gives it anti-corrosion properties. The professional flooring is often used as roofing material.

To lead the chimney through the roof, in the case of a square or rectangular pipe, a device in the form of two aprons and a tie is used. The method is the same as for a metal roof. The installation of round pipes in corrugated board is not recommended, because it is difficult to cut the correct circular section in it. But if a round chimney is nevertheless made, the pipe is insulated with a universal elastic adapter.

Accessories for holding round pipes Source metalsteel.com.pl

Passage through ondulin

Ondulin looks like ordinary slate, but its material is completely different. This is compressed cellulose, which is treated with bitumen impregnation. It comes in a variety of colors, is resistant to water, but burns quite well. Therefore, when a passage through the roof is organized, maximum attention is paid to filling with fire-resistant materials. The hole for the pipe in the ondulin is made large. To isolate the junction of the roof and the chimney, an apron is used, which is wound under the roof. In this case, an elastic self-adhesive tape "Onduflash" is used, made of bitumen with an aluminum insert.

Brick pipe through ondulin Source seaside-home.ru

Installation of a chimney in a soft roof

Soft roofing is a combustible material, so it is important here that there is a gap of 13 to 25 mm between the pipe and the coating. The passage of the chimney through the roof is organized depending on what shape it is - flat or pitched. The material from which the pipe is made also plays a role. If the roof is flat, which is a concrete slab, and the pipe is not made of brick, the passage is made as follows:

Around the pipe at a distance of about 15 cm along the perimeter, everything is removed, up to the concrete.

Formwork is installed.

Concrete is poured so that a side is obtained, the height of which is 15 cm.

The roofing is laid on the walls.

Where the roofing material is connected to the rim, a metal strip is installed. Fastening is done with dowels.

A tide is installed on the side.

If the pipe is brick, the concrete side is not made. In this case, the roofing material is put on it and a metal apron is installed on top. A strobe is made in the wall of the pipe (depth 1.5 cm), where the edge of the apron is wound.

When running a pipe through a soft roof, many nuances must be taken into account. Source heatspec.com

The junction is filled with sealant. In the case of a pitched roof, waterproofing is carried out as on other coatings, that is, using aprons (for square and rectangular pipes), as well as flexible or metal adapters (for round ones).

Conducting a chimney in the finished roof

If the chimney is removed not at the stage of building a house, but in an already finished roof, the following is performed:

There is a place for withdrawal, taking into account the requirements of SNiP. This should be the space between the cross beam and the rafters.

A box is made of beams, the cross section of which is equal to the cross section of the rafters. The box is made in such a way that the width of its sides is 0.5 m greater than the diameter of the pipe.

A hole is cut in the roof, equal to the perimeter of the box. To comply with it, through holes are drilled from the inside in the corners of the box.

The roofing material is bent outward, a pipe is inserted into the hole and fixed.

The box is sealed with fire-resistant material for thermal insulation.

The junction of the pipe and the roof is sealed. The flange (adapter) is being installed.

The pipe must be output only through an adapter. Source rinnipool.ru

Video description

Visually about the pipe through the finished roof, see the following video:

Conclusion

In order for the chimney to be correctly led through the roof, you need to know all the subtleties of this work. Thanks to this, the pipe will be installed in the right place, in compliance with the requirements of all rules and regulations for construction. Also, the house will be reliably protected from leaks and the possibility of fire.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work of running chimney pipes through floor slabs and roof construction - knowledge that will be useful to any man who decides to do the work with his own hands. The work is not easy and requires care and responsibility, because the safety of your home and its protection from fires depend on the quality.

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General rules and seat selection

How to run a stove pipe through a wooden ceiling - this must be done so that there are no troubles, as in the photo. The main task of the preparatory stage is to determine the location of the furnace and the chimney to the street. Depending on the materials of the floor slabs and chimney pipes, it will be necessary to perform work taking into account several dimensions:

Chimney outlet schemes through the ceiling and roof

1st floor

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling of the 1st floor is equipped with a metal box filled with a layer of thermal insulation. To do this, you can use expanded clay backfill, filling the cavities with mineral wool. For non-residential premises, the use of asbestos slabs is allowed.

Installation diagram of the chimney through the ceiling with access to the roof (one-story house)

2 or more floors

When passing through slabs of the 2nd and subsequent floors, a situation may arise when the chimney cannot be installed vertically. Builders could move partitions or install a beam in the floor structure.

Therefore, in order not to take risks, when arranging chimneys in a multi-storey building, it is better to use a house ventilation system. If you make a horizontal indent, possible condensate will collect in this place and a thick layer of soot will be deposited on the walls. And it will be difficult to clean the chimney through the turns.

Scheme of installing a furnace chimney in a 2-story house

Scheme with a description of all elements

The output of the chimney through the ceiling

The choice of design and materials depends on the type of chimney. Let us analyze the rules for organizing work for the main materials of pipelines in detail.

round metal

The whole process is divided into several stages:

Important! When installing a steel chimney pipe, we must take into account the general direction of the joints. Inside the building, it is customary to lead them “through the smoke”. The upper pipe is put on the lower one, so the smoke cannot come out even if the chimney is clogged.

brick chimney

Everything is much more complicated here:

The scheme of the output of a brick chimney through the ceiling and the roof of the house

Passage through the roof

The passage of the chimney through the roof is carried out by analogy with floor slabs. The only addition is to provide a reliable layer of waterproofing to prevent water from leaking at the exit of the chimney.

The passage of a brick pipe through the roof

Bricks for rooftop stoves are ceramic, red, of high quality and brand. Here it is influenced not only by the high temperature of the gases, but also by the aggressive conditions of the outside temperature, wind and precipitation.

After crossing with the floor slab, we lay out the pipe to the point of exit through the roof structure:

• we mark and carefully cut out the cavity of the chimney passage, make a size with a margin for the insulation layer;
• we equip the passageway with a metal box with a cavity for the passage of the pipe. The upper cut must be made taking into account the angle of the roof, and is set slightly recessed inward;
• after the chimney exits, we fill the entire space with a layer of thermal insulation, seal all the slightest voids with sealant;
• we start a layer of waterproofing under the surface of the roof structure. Then we put on a steel apron or a rubber sleeve on top. The edges are carefully sealed with sealant.

The main material of the roof covering is laid on top, and the pipe is extruded to the desired size. An “otter” is laid out at the top and a protective visor is installed. Pulling a chimney through the roof is not difficult if you have a good tool and the skills to perform brick and plumbing work.

The passage of a round pipe through the roof

The passage of the chimney through the roof, if the chimney is made of steel, ceramic or asbestos pipes, is carried out in the same way as with a brick chimney (instructions above).

The only difference is that several options for sealing rings have been developed for waterproofing the joint. They greatly facilitate the work, it is not required to lay an additional layer of thermal insulation when using a through coupling.

If it is necessary to install a high pipe, it is fastened with steel braces to special anchors embedded in the roof structure.

Stages of work on the photo:

Cutting the chimney on the roof

Cutting the chimney on the roof is carried out taking into account several sizes:

• the minimum distance from the roof surface to the rafters is 250-300 mm;
• if roofing or roofing material is used as a surface coating - the size to the chimney pipe is from 300 mm;
• if metal or concrete parts are used as rafters, this distance is reduced to 200 mm.

Difficulties arise when pipes pass through the layers of roof protection (steam, waterproofing, wooden lathing of the structure and layers of insulation). We carry out the work very carefully, trying not to violate all layers of insulation and construction.

To install the glass, we perform an additional crate, connecting 2 adjacent rafters with 2 jumpers according to the size of the sleeve.

We carefully tighten all the old layers and tuck them inward, fixing the edges with a stapler or nails with hats. We fill all gaps with a layer of thermal insulation and sealant.

Surface waterproofing is carried out in several stages:

• on the roof we lay a groove over the entire surface of the pipe for drainage and removal of possible leaks;
• we fix and fill all the gaps and install the outer waterproofing apron. It can be made from steel or rubber. We wind its edges under the roof covering and fix it on top of the inner apron of the main structure and close up all the joints;
• now water, when passing through small cracks, will fall into the drainage groove or be removed along the cover of the under-roof apron.

After laying the roof covering layer, install the outer apron and hermetically fix it to the surface of the chimney and roof.

The scheme of cutting the chimney on the roof

Installation of a brick chimney

Final works

Do-it-yourself cutting of the chimney on the ceiling or roof is over. It remains only to dry the oven. But before that, we check the draft in the pipe. To do this, we bring the torch to the open door of the furnace, if the flame draws inward, the draft is normal. In case of insufficient ventilation, it will be necessary to remove construction debris from the pipes and only after that proceed to the next stage of the final.

After the surfaces have cooled, we dry the oven 2 and check all the joints and the chimney itself for tightness, and the absence of gas penetrations into the room. We eliminate possible malfunctions, and only after the final check, you can start operating the furnaces.

Only by qualitatively completing the main stages of work, after carefully checking the finished chimney, you can protect your home from fires and inhale the fragrant smell of burning firewood, and not carbon monoxide coming out of the slots of the chimney.

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is an extremely responsible task in itself, requiring special accuracy, sequence of actions, and strict adherence to the developed technological recommendations. Whatever material is used to cover the roof, it must ultimately provide one hundred percent protection of the building from the destructive effects of precipitation.

One of the most vulnerable in terms of possible water penetration and difficult to install nodes is the adjoining of the roof to the chimney or ventilation pipe. The durability of the truss system, the attic floor, and often even the finishes in the house itself, directly depends on how well such areas will be sealed. Therefore, it is very important to treat this stage of roofing work with special attention and accuracy.

Features of the arrangement of the passage of the chimney through the roof

A high-quality adjoining of the roofing material to the pipe can only be done if the roof has a reliable rigid crate corresponding to the type of roof and the steepness of the slopes, on which the load will be evenly distributed both from the mass of the roof system itself and from external influences.

• The best option is when the chimney is installed even before the arrangement of the crate. That is, in most The design of the truss system provides for a passage for it, reinforced with additional details. In such cases, it will be much easier to connect sheet or piece roofing material to the pipe than in those when it is necessary to organize a passage for the newly erected pipe in the finished crate.
• If the pipe is installed later, then in order to make room for the passage of the chimney, it will be necessary to dismantle some elements of the crate, which may well weaken the overall structure.
• It is also necessary to foresee in advance that the pipe does not fall on the rafter leg, since its partial or complete dismantling is an extremely undesirable operation. If the pipe still falls on one of the rafters, and part of it has to be removed, then before carrying out this process, it is necessary to immediately install retaining posts under the remaining parts, which are fixed to the floor beams. In addition, most often you also have to connect parts of this leg with whole rafters, horizontal lintels.
• Whatever option neither considered, around the chimney, it is imperative to equip an additional reliable frame, which must be firmly connected to other elements of the rafter system and roof sheathing.

Prices for chimney pipes

flue pipe

• The clearance between the chimney and the elements of the truss system is regulated by the rules of SNiP 41-01-2003, paragraph 6.6.22. It states that the distance from the surfaces of concrete and brick chimneys to any parts of the truss system and roofing "pie" made of combustible material should be no less than 130 mm. From ceramic pipes that do not have insulation, this clearance must be at least 250 mm, and in the presence of thermal insulation - also at least 130 mm.

Remaining not closed space between the pipe and combustible or even low-combustible roof coverings, only completely non-combustible materials (usually sheet metal is used for these purposes).

The design of the junctions of the roofing to the pipe

When a reliable basis for arranging the adjoining of the roofing material to the chimney is ready, you can proceed to the installation of the coating sealing elements.

The design of the system for adjoining the coating to the pipe may be different, depending on the selected roofing material. The functions that are assigned to the elements included in the junction design are sealing and waterproofing the joints of the roof covering and ventilation or chimney pipes, as well as the removal and redirection of water flows flowing from the roof ridge to the pipe from above.

The scheme for arranging such an junction should ideally be determined even when drafting the truss system and roofing. The fact is that some options involve the installation of individual structural parts before laying the roofing.

In addition to the type of roof chosen to cover the roof, the location of the chimney, its shape, and the material from which it is made should also be taken into account when drafting the project.

Professional builders usually recommend that only ready-made structures, which are produced by roofing manufacturers, be used for arranging junctions. However, many craftsmen prefer to make these parts on their own.

It should be noted that the chimney pipe passing through the roof directly on the ridge line of the roof is the easiest to seal. With this arrangement, water during rain, as well as snow drifts in winter, are not able to accumulate above the back wall of the pipe, which minimizes the risk of roof leakage in this, perhaps, the most vulnerable junction.

It will not be difficult to equip a reliable connection of the roofing material to the chimney, which is located in close proximity to the ridge line, that is, almost immediately behind the ridge element. A very small space is also obtained above the pipe, which does not allow the accumulation of snow and water.

But to perform high-quality sealing of the chimney located in the middle or lower part of the roof slope is much more difficult. In this case, waterproofing must be especially reliable. Therefore, quite often, and especially, for example, when the roof is covered with a soft bituminous roof, it is necessary to equip an additional pitched structure - as shown in the illustration above. Such a special break in the roof will dilute water flows, directing them along the side walls of the pipe. Such protective extensions to the pipe are usually called grooves.

And, of course, the most difficult thing is to qualitatively equip the junction around the chimney, which falls on the middle or lower part of the valley. The pipe in this case will be in the path of pronouncedly directed flows of water, which, during rain or snowmelt, will flow into the chute of the junction of the slopes. In this case, it is extremely important to reliably seal not only the back side of the pipe, but also its side lines. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to try very hard to avoid such a location of the pipe.

Now, in order to answer the most popular questions that arise in the process of arranging this roof assembly, it is necessary to consider several options for sealing pipe passages through the roof.

Sealing passages of round pipes

As you know, stoves and fireplaces in recent years are increasingly equipped with round chimneys of different diameters. Modern metal chimney pipes most often represent a "sandwich construction", that is, they consist of three layers - two metal cylinders, external and internal, and a layer of thermal insulation between them. As a thermal insulation, as a rule, basalt-based mineral wool is used.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Manufacturers have provided for sealing the adjoining of such round pipes to the roofing with special elements - penetrations. These parts can be made of metal or an elastic, heat-resistant composite material, which is mounted in combination with metal elements.

In principle, according to the same principle, a hermetic adjoining of the roof is also arranged for ventilation pipes.

Metal penetration for round pipes

Variants of finished metal products for arranging the adjoining of the roof to round pipes usually consist of two parts. This is an apron cap and the so-called "sole", which is a rigid base and made of steel sheet, on which the cap is fixed by the manufacturer. Metal penetrations differ from each other in the angle of inclination of the lower plate of the structure with respect to the cap, therefore, are selected depending on the slope of the roof. As a rule, in specialized stores you can always find the right version of the products, since they are produced for roof slopes of various slope slopes.

The upper part of the cap, before mounting the structure on the roof, is cut off to the diameter of the chimney pipe, since it must pass freely through the opening of the cap. Then, the “sole” is rigidly fixed to the roof surface with the help of roofing screws, on which sealing elastic gaskets made of rubber or neoprene are put on.

Very often, when installing a metal penetration on a relief roofing, to enhance the sealing of the abutment, a metal sheet is fixed above the pipe, which is brought under the ridge element and fixed overlay on the upper side of the “foot” of the penetration.

After the sole is fixed on the roof surface, and the pipe is passed through the penetration, the upper edge of the cap is pressed against the chimney using a special clamp, in which a heat-resistant elastic gasket is installed. This element will protect the junction of two elements from moisture ingress into it.

Ready elastic penetrations

As mentioned above, in addition to metal penetrations, you can also find elastic ones on sale, equipped in the lower part with a sole made of soft flexible metal, such as lead or aluminum. Through this plastic, but retaining the shape given to it, framing the "sole" of the penetration, it is fixed to the crate, through the surface of the roofing material. The cap itself is made of weather-resistant elastic rubber, and tightly covers the pipe around the circumference, especially since it is usually also “caught” with a metal clamp.

Slate prices

The advantage of elastic penetrations lies in their versatility, as they can be installed on slopes that are built at any slope. Due to the flexibility of the combined penetration base, the sole is easy to shape the relief of the roofing material.

Such flexible penetrations for round pipes are often referred to as "master flash". There is no shortage of such products in our time. And installation is very simple, and available to any owner of the house.

Video: installation of an elastic penetration for a master flash chimney

Sealing the junction of the roof to the round pipe using aluminum or lead tape

In cases where, for some reason, it is not possible to use ready-made penetrations for sealing pipe passages, a special self-adhesive aluminum or lead tape can be used to perform these works. Due to the flexibility, heat resistance and versatility of this material, you can use it to form a penetration yourself.

Pieces of tape are pasted over the vertical part of the pipe with the transition to the roofing. And then the tape is fixed around the chimney - in this way, sealed abutment joint.

This material is highly resistant to various external negative influences: high and low temperatures and their sudden changes, to moisture, ultraviolet radiation,

In order for the tape to provide high-quality waterproofing of the junction, and the sealing to last as long as possible, the tape must be glued to a clean, fat-free and dried surface of both pipes and roofs.

Options for sealing the junction of the roof to pipes of rectangular or square section

For arranging abutment around pipes having a rectangular or square cross section (most often brick), ready-made standard systems manufactured by roofing manufacturers are also used. In this regard, when purchasing this or that roofing material, you can immediately buy or order a set of penetration parts for a brick or concrete chimney for specific sizes.

This standard sheet metal version can be used for roofing materials such as, profiled sheet, as well as the familiar slate of the old and new modifications. For these coatings, the joint sealing scheme shown below is usually used.

So, before roofing sheets are fixed on the frame of the crate, preparatory work is carried out, which includes the following steps.

• Additional crate bars are fixed around the pipe, their cross-sectional size can be the same as that of other crate elements.
• Then, from the front wall of the pipe down to the eaves of the roof is fixed, so-called"tie", equipped flanging on both sides. The tie is usually made from galvanized sheet metal.
• Further, around the pipe, on top of the “tie”, a wall profile is laid and fixed. Its upper edge, which has a bend in the opposite direction with a size of 8 ÷ 10 mm, is inserted into a pre-cut groove on the chimney wall.
• Then, at this junction of the wall apron and the pipe wall, it is imperative to apply a weather-resistant sealant, that is, intended for external work.
• The next step is the installation of roofing material.
• The final stage is the installation and fixing of the external wall profile - an apron, consisting of four elements, installed on all sides of the pipe. These parts of the apron are screwed to the walls of the chimney, and are also fastened together at its corners.

Another, more modern option for sealing the junction involves the use of self-adhesive waterproofing lead tape, which is convenient for use on both flat and any relief roofing.

When using such a tape, it must be fixed on the surfaces of the pipe walls with the help of special clamping metal strips, which can be made independently. The upper joint of the strips with the pipe walls must be additionally covered with a layer of weather-resistant sealant.

Flexible waterproofing self-adhesive tape is perfect for sealing the abutment of roofing coverings with tall enough embossed pattern, as it easily takes its shape when pasted and retains it. Such a tape is very often used to close joints if the roof is covered with ceramic tiles, slate or ondulin.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tiles

Sealing the adjoining ondulin roof to a brick chimney - step by step

It has already been said above that many manufacturers of roofing materials tend to accompany their products with proprietary systems for sealing pipe passages. One example is the design system for adjoining the pipe to the wavy cellulose-bitumen roofing material ondulin, which is quite popular in our time.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	In this case, a variant of arranging the adjoining of a roof covered with ondulin to a rectangular chimney or chimney is presented. The sealing system will be mounted after the roofing material has been laid on the crate. The gap between the coating and the sides of the pipe, as well as below it, should be 20÷30 mm. On the rear side of the chimney, i.e. facing the ridge, the distance between the pipe wall and the batten can vary between 50 and 100 mm.
	In order to fix the sealing apron along the perimeter of the pipe, it is necessary to include additional elements of the crate in the roof structure in advance, which are fixed along the walls of the chimney pipe. For this additional crate, a beam with a section size of 40 × 40, 40 × 30 or 50 × 30 mm is suitable.
	The first step is to close the junction of the roof with the pipe from the front side of the pipe with a covering apron made specifically for ondulin. Usually, the manufacturer of roofing material also produces additional elements for the design of adjoining, ridge and other complex and vulnerable coating units. Therefore, when purchasing material, you must immediately ask about the range of additional elements, and, making preliminary calculations, they must be immediately included in the project.
	The covering apron is applied to the place of its future installation - along the lower edge of the pipe facing the eaves. Marking is made on the apron, according to which it will be necessary to make cuts. The upper, flat part of the apron should remain exactly the width of the pipe, and the wavy part should have one wave on each side. In this case, it is necessary to cut the wavy part along the lower crest of the wave. First, the marking is done with a pencil.
	And then the apron is cut according to the marked markings. It is most convenient to cut the part with a sharp construction knife.
	Further, the finished apron is pressed against the pipe and fixed to the roof surface using branded roofing nails. The nails must enter through the ondulin into the beam of the crate installed around the pipe.
	In this case, nails are driven into the top of each wave of the apron relief. Fastening is not carried out only on the extreme waves that go beyond the dimensions of the pipe on both sides. It is very important to drive in the nails correctly, strictly vertically to the roof surface. And measure the efforts so as not to deform the coating when the fasteners are clogged too much.
	Now you need to prepare a waterproofing self-adhesive tape "Onduflash-super". This material is excellent for sealing complex areas - the butyl rubber component has excellent waterproofing qualities, and the aluminum base allows you to give the tape very complex shapes. The standard tape width is 300 mm. The length of the first segment should be 250÷300 mm
	The cut off piece of tape is applied to the future installation site and preliminarily bent along the relief of the sealed corner. The function of this segment will be to seal the edges of the previously fixed apron.
	After fitting the tape to the installation site, a protective film is removed from its back, covering the adhesive layer.
	The tape is applied at the area where the roof adjoins the pipe at the front corners so that it can simultaneously close the upper and lower parts of the apron by 70 ÷ 80 mm. In order for the tape to bend into the required position and fit snugly against the material of the roof, apron and pipe, its corner is cut.
	Further, the tape must be pressed with a good effort to all surfaces. It is especially important that the tape fits as tightly as possible along the joint line. First, such sealing is carried out on one lower corner of the pipe, and then the same is done on the opposite side.
	The next step is to attach the side apron to the pipe. The part is pressed against the surface of the roof and against the side wall of the pipe and the cut lines are marked.
	Sections of the upper part of the apron must be made clearly along the vertical boundaries of the pipe, that is, the edges of the apron are cut at a certain angle. And the lower part of the part, located on the roofing, should extend beyond the pipe both in its lower and upper parts by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
	Cuts are made along the marked lines with a sharp knife. First, a metal ruler is applied to the markup and it is necessary to draw a knife along it with gentle pressure.
	That is, the material of the apron is cut through approximately ⅔ of its thickness. Then, from a slight bending force, the apron part breaks off neatly along the cut line.
	In the next step, the prepared side parts of the apron are nailed to the roofing surface, under which additional elements of the crate are fixed. It is enough to drive three nails into each of the side parts of the apron - one in the center and one at the top and bottom.
	Further, a piece is cut off from the waterproofing self-adhesive tape, along the length exceeding the width of the pipe by 200 mm. This segment will go to seal the rear, the most vulnerable part of the chimney penetration.
	The cut off part of the waterproofing tape is applied to the place of its future installation and bent along the line where the roofing sheets adjoin the pipe. At the same time, they try to immediately give the maximum shape to its lower part, repeating the waves of ondulin sheets.
	Next, the protective film is carefully removed from the tape, and the waterproofing material is pressed tightly against the surface of the pipe and against the roofing. The sides of the tape are cut so that the top of the cut parts can be glued to the sides of the pipe, where the apron elements are already fixed. Thus, the tape isolates the junction of the side element of the apron with the pipe wall, preventing water drops from penetrating here during rain.
	The next task is to glue the waterproofing tape on the front side of the pipe. It is fixed on top of the front upper part of the apron, that is, the one that goes onto the pipe. The width of the tape should be 100 ÷ 150 mm, and its length should exceed the width of the pipe by 200 ÷ 300 mm, since it will bend onto the sides of the pipe and hide under the side parts of the apron. The tape must also be pressed very well against the brick or plaster surface of the pipe.
	Further, the upper edge of the waterproofing tape from the front side of the chimney is pressed with a metal fixing strip. Its fastening is made on dowels.
	The same strips are screwed to the sides of the pipe, 15 ÷ 17 mm below the edge of the apron. The photo clearly shows how the fixing rail should be located, the ends of which are cut along the line of the pipe corners.
	Further, the edges of the apron, remaining on top of the screwed side clamping strips, must be slightly bent from the surface of the pipe.
	Now this formed corner between the pipe wall and the slightly bent edge of the apron is densely filled with a layer of polyurethane sealant. For this operation, you will need a special construction syringe gun.
	Now it remains only to cut and lay an additional piece of ondulin on the back of the pipe. Its width should be equal to the width of the location of the side elements of the apron. and the length is from the ridge to the pipe. An additional piece of ondulin is laid on top of the already laid coating, as well as on top of the waterproofing tape glued to it and the pipe.
	The laid additional fragment of ondulin is nailed to the crate directly through the coating that has cooled down below. Fixation is carried out with roofing nails driven into the top of each wave of the coating.
	When the arrangement of the junction of the roofing material with the pipe is completed, you can proceed to the further installation of the ridge elements. This ridge element will close the upper edge of the additional ondulin sheet on top of the pipe.

The information presented above quite convincingly indicates that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in sealing the area where the roof adjoins the chimney pipe. It is quite possible to carry out such work on your own. However, at the same time, one should not forget about compliance with all safety requirements, since the work will take place at high altitude. Performing any installation operations on roof slopes without safety devices is extremely frivolous!

At the end of the publication, we suggest watching a video that shows in detail the process of sealing the junction of a tiled roof.

Video: Sealing the junction with a ceramic tile roof pipe