The passage of the chimney through the wall of the frame house. Chimney from sandwich pipes through the wall: installation rules and step-by-step instructions

FORUMHOUSE users are well aware that the quality installation of a metal chimney directly affects the safety of living in a cottage. We have already written about. It's time to talk about the features of installing a steel chimney.

1. What is a sandwich chimney

Despite the large selection of materials for the installation of smoke exhaust systems, reliable steel sandwich chimneys are most widely used in private housing construction.

A sandwich chimney consists of two pipes of different diameters inserted into each other, and all the free space between them is a place to fill with non-combustible insulation - mineral wool.

Mineral wool simultaneously plays the role of a heater and an insulator.

Sandwich chimneys have the following main advantages:

• High installation speed and low cost compared to brick chimneys;
• Light weight of the smoke exhaust system;
• Smooth inner walls of the chimney provide good draft and help reduce soot formation;
• The use of acid-resistant grades of stainless steel guarantees a long service life of the chimney.

The flue gas temperature directly depends on the type of heating boiler and the type of fuel used. The higher the temperature of the flue gases, the more heated the pipe and, accordingly, all the structural elements through which it passes. The following table will help you understand the dependence of the flue gas temperature on the type of boiler and the type of fuel used.

It should be remembered that an unprotected wood begins to char at a temperature of 200 ° C. Well-dried wood can ignite from an open flame source at a temperature of 270-290 ° C. And if a wooden surface is subjected to constant heating for more than 24 hours in a row, then it can spontaneously ignite already at a temperature of 170 ° C. Therefore, when installing a sandwich chimney, it is important to observe all fire safety measures. And any mistake made at this stage can lead to sad consequences - a fire and loss of property.

Urban:

- Two of my friends' houses burned down due to an incorrectly installed sandwich chimney. Moreover, in both cases, the fire occurred in the place where the chimney exits through the wooden ceiling.

According to statistics, up to 80% of fires occur precisely because of improperly installed chimneys. Therefore, when choosing and installing a chimney, it is necessary to adhere to SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning".

2. Chimney: distance to the floor slab and correct penetration

As practice shows, the greatest number of questions arise when calculating the distances from the chimney to the wooden floors.

VadimPro:

- I built a house with a distance between the rafters of 60 cm. And only later I found out that, according to existing standards, my chimney does not fit into this distance.

And again, SNiPs come to our aid:

vova230:

– According to the norms, when driving through wooden floors, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 38 cm from the inner tube of the sandwich to combustible structures. All this space must be filled with non-combustible material. If the standard passage does not provide this distance, then the dimensions of the furnace passage must be further increased.

If the chimney is laid through protected wooden structures, then the distance can be reduced to 25 cm.

Protection of wooden structures - logs, ends of rafters, battens - is provided by a galvanized sheet with an asbestos sheet at least 5 mm thick laid between it and the tree.

Galvanization performs the following functions:

• Prevents the spread of fire in the ceiling;
• Provides uniform heat dissipation;
• Shields and reflects heat radiation coming from the pipe.

In the case of penetration of interfloor ceilings with a single-pipe steel chimney, the distance to unprotected wooden structures must be at least 50 cm!

Also, the parameters of the chimney should be calculated in such a way that the chimney pipe passes through the ceiling as a whole - without joints with other elements. The chimney itself is installed through a passage pipe-cutting, which is a metal box.

Portal Site Specialist Alexey Telegin from Moscow recommends:

- According to the norms, the thickness of the groove (metal box) should exceed the thickness of the ceiling by 7 cm.

Sealing of ceilings at the place where metal pipes pass from the stove with basalt-fiber cardboard

Installation of PPU chimney

The very process of mounting the cutting in a wooden floor can be divided into a number of successive steps:

1. We cut a hole in the ceiling with a size of at least 700x700 mm.

2. If necessary, remove or strengthen the floor beams.

3. We sew up the perimeter of the cut out opening with fireproof materials, superisol, etc.

4. For tightness, we put a sheet of basalt cardboard under the superisol.

5. We make a supporting frame from a galvanized profile, which is used when installing the GKL.

6. The dimensions of the frame are calculated for the fastening points of the PPU (ceiling-through node).

7. We close the opening with sheets of mineralite or superisol with a hole for the passage of the inner part of the PPU.

8. We fix PPU.

9. Install the sandwich pipe.

10. We insulate the lower part of the PPU and the space around it with non-combustible insulation, this will avoid freezing and the formation of frost and condensation.

It is better to lay down and calculate the smoke exhaust system at the design stage of the house!

It is also important to pay attention to how the pipes are connected to each other. There are two ways - "by smoke" and "by condensate".

• Docking "in the smoke" - the pipe of the lower bend of the sandwich goes inside the pipe of the upper bend of the sandwich. In this case, flue gases move freely up the walls of the pipe;
• Docking "by condensate" - the inner tube of the sandwich: the upper one is inserted into the lower one, the outer tube of the sandwich: the lower one is inserted into the upper one. With this installation, the pipe allows condensate to pass through, it flows down unhindered and does not flow out along the outer part of the chimney, which can lead to a fire.

Kotlasky:

- The condensate pipe is usually installed on modern gas boilers, because. they have a low temperature of outgoing smoke.

In metal stoves, cast iron potbelly stoves, the smoke temperature is about 300 ° C, the steam that is released during the combustion of firewood begins to condense at a temperature of less than 100 ° C. At the moment of kindling, steam, falling on the cold walls of the chimney, is deposited in the form of water droplets, which roll down the smooth walls of the chimney into the condensate collector.

The condensate collector is installed outdoors. It is better to collect a sandwich chimney "by condensate".

3. Features of penetration through the roof

Penetration through the roof is done according to the same principles as penetration through the ceiling. Let's find out if it is correct that when driving through the rafters, the distance to the protected wooden structures can be reduced to a size of 150 mm.

Alexey Telegin:

– It is assumed that the chimney cools down when passing through the roof, and the space around it is well ventilated, so you can reduce the gap to the protected rafters. In my opinion, this may be true for a cold roof, and for an insulated one, it is necessary to apply the norms and distances, as for interfloor floors.

There was also a simpler option - from a metal pipe, but additional difficulties arose with it. And how good it is now that sandwich pipes for chimneys have appeared.

What are the benefits

Why sandwich pipes were able to quickly conquer the market? Simplicity of construction, consisting of an outer and inner pipe, inside filled with mineral wool for thermal insulation. Special fasteners at the end make it easy to install, whether through a roof or a wall. For production, such a reliable material as steel is used. If you know all the details, and even better, watch the video instruction, then assembling such a system with your own hands will not be a problem. But you must strictly adhere to the installation instructions and fire safety in order to avoid problems in the future.

The advantages of sandwich pipes include:

It is clear that the stainless steel from which the pipe is made makes the price of it quite high, and this is a relative disadvantage. And improper installation over time can cause loss of tightness of the structure. But if the first pays off with a long service life, then the second depends only on who will be involved in the installation.

It's important to know

Before starting the installation, it is worth familiarizing yourself with some of the subtleties. For example, it is important to know that the larger the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure will be inside the room, the less heat loss will be. When creating a detailed diagram, consider the fact that even horizontal sections should be up to one meter. Please note that the contact of the system with any communications, such as gas and electricity, is unacceptable. And if wooden parts come across in the way of placing the chimney, then the pipe must be moved away from them using special steel brackets. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed one meter.

Also include in the plan a part of a collapsible pipe or an insert with a door through which it will be possible to inspect and clean soot. Of course, installing a chimney sandwich is a serious and responsible matter, so if you decide to do it without specialists, then understand the degree of responsibility and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.

In the finished building, a chimney is being installed through a wall of sandwich pipes. To do this, take measures to protect the wall from the high temperature of the chimney. Well, if the house is new and it is possible to install the system indoors. But in a wooden house you can’t do without insulating materials. And it doesn’t matter what you choose for this purpose: mineral wool or asbestos, but you have to do it. Such fire safety standards regarding log cabins.

Already at the stage of buying pipes, you should have a diagram and calculations in your hands. A low chimney will not have draft, and often smoke and soot will return inside the room, and if it is too long, it will speed up the process of fuel combustion, and heat will go into the atmosphere. The optimal length of the system is in the range from 5 to 10 meters. In addition to the chimney itself, you will need various tees, pipes, elbows and fixtures.

It is clear that the ideal option is the passage of a pipe through a roof or wall, and it does not matter whether the construction project is taken into account. This guarantees your safety. But if it didn’t work out, then we are looking for a section on the wall where there are no other technological structures nearby. Experts advise to retreat from any communication at least 40 cm, and if this is not possible, then provide for additional insulation.

For different walls, their installation secrets

If you have walls made of logs, then pre-drill the necessary holes, larger than the pipe itself, in diameter. The round shape of the hole will help create a special drill. And now in order:

1. The first way: you will need several heat-insulated pipes of a larger diameter than the chimney, inserted alternately into each other;
2. The second option: we lead the chimney through the wall, laying out the space between them with high-quality thermal insulation.

Passing through a brick or twin block wall is done like this. First, marking is done taking into account the appearance of cracks from the holes made. In order to avoid this kind of problems, put a special metal frame inside. The free space near the pipe must be filled with refractory material and shields should be installed that will close the transition. The main difficulty is to go through the wall, and then to assemble the structure is quite simple. Collected? We fix on the wall.

It is clear that when experienced craftsmen mount, there is no doubt about safety and reliability, but if you decide to do it yourself, then just remember the responsibility entrusted to you for the lives of those who will live in this house.

Step-by-step installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through the wall: video instruction

In the foreseeable past, no one could have thought that the installation of chimneys would be within the power of everyone. And it's clear why. Previously, only a stove-maker knew how to correctly create a structure from bricks of the desired shape and size. Such knowledgeable people were greatly appreciated.

How to properly install a chimney from a sandwich pipe through the wall

In order to create the most comfortable conditions in this corner, in addition to comfort, you should take care of safety and ease of installation.

For this purpose, they have been devised chimneys from sandwich pipes. Due to their special design, combustion products in the form of ash and soot do not settle on the walls of the pipes, which additionally provides protection against accidental ignition.

What is a sandwich tube?

sandwich pipe- This is a special smoke channel, made in the form of two interconnected metal pipes, which differ in diameter. At the same time, a smaller diameter pipe is inside a larger one, and the free space between them is filled with a special refractory material - heat-resistant basalt fiber - using high pressure.

The chimney itself can be represented as a constructor, which is assembled from special elements - tees, clamps and bends.

Ease of assembly is ensured by thoughtful design details. Each element has different thread sizes on both sides, due to which the parts are assembled according to the principle of sockets in sewer pipes. This connection provides the pipes with complete tightness. Clamps are used to further strengthen the connected segments.

How to properly assemble a sandwich pipe?

To begin with, a two-layer pipe is securely attached to the branch pipe of the sauna stove using a starting cone.

Chimney in the sauna stove- the simplest design, because it has no turns and additions. In most cases, this is a straight pipe coming out of the stove and going through the ceiling to the street.

Step-by-step installation of a sandwich chimney in a bath

Despite the fact that installing a chimney from sandwich pipes with your own hands is a very simple task, feasible for a person who has nothing to do with construction, you still need to pay attention to the basic subtleties of the installation. In this article, we will consider installation of a chimney through the wall.

1. Installation takes place in the upward direction, from the furnace to the roof. When assembling the chimney, the narrowed end of the pipe is inserted into the previous, wider one.
2. The sandwich pipe is never installed directly to the oven. First of all, it is better to put a single-wall stainless steel pipe. This will allow you to get more heat output, while protecting other elements of the furnace from overheating.
3. Due to the absence of soot accumulations on the walls of the chimney, condensate is easily removed from it. For this, additional tees are installed.

Tees can be freely moved around the structure on special skids. To create such a design, you need to disassemble the chimney, fixing the landing brackets, then assemble the outer bracket and attach several corners to it.

• The wall should be closed with a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick, and asbestos should be attached to the plywood with screws. The next layer is galvanized steel with dimensions of 120 * 200 mm, also fixed with screws. In a steel sheet, carve a square recess for the pipe outlet, and insert an adapter into it. Then, using a special anti-corrosion varnish, cover the bracket.
• During the installation of the chimney, remember to leave some free space between the wall and the chimney, the so-called concession.

The maximum length of the chimney, starting from the grate and ending with the deflector, can reach 5-6 meters. At the joints of the pipes it is necessary to apply a sealing material with heat-resistant properties (withstanding temperatures up to 1000⁰C). At the end of the installation, be sure to clean the structure from the protective film.

For further cleaning of the chimney from soot, a revision is provided in the body of the pipe - a tee with a door on the side. It cuts directly into the pipe.

For a reliable support of the chimney, you can make a bracket with your own hands from steel corners 30x50 mm. For this, a drill with a grinder and M10 bolts is useful. Instead of bolting, the bracket frame can be electrowelded.

Conclusion

The most time-consuming step in the process of installing a chimney from sandwich pipes is drilling holes in the wall and sheathing the structure with insulating materials. And then, having prepared the necessary material and tools, it is enough just to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

How to install a chimney from sandwich pipes

In recent years, more and more chimneys are made from sandwich pipes. The point is a relatively low price, long service life, quite attractive appearance. It is also important that self-assembly of a sandwich chimney is possible. This is not a very simple matter - there are many nuances, but you can do it yourself, without involving specialists.

Painted to match the roofing

What is a sandwich pipe and what are they

The sandwich pipe was named so for its multi-layeredness: there are two layers of metal, between which there is a heater. Such a structure solves many of the problems that were inherent in a simple metal pipe chimney. Firstly, the insulation layer does not allow the outer metal casing to heat up to critical temperatures, there is no hard radiation from the pipe. More comfortable conditions are created in the room. Secondly, the same insulation significantly reduces the amount of condensate that forms when the pipe is brought outside. Thirdly, since the outer casing is no longer so hot, it is easier to make the chimney pass through the roof or wall.

A sandwich pipe is two metal cylinders, the space between which is filled with insulation

What materials are they made from

Sandwich pipes are made of galvanized or stainless steel. Galvanized sandwich pipes for chimneys are rarely used. Unless for the removal of combustion products of a low-power wall-mounted gas boiler or gas water heater. Can be used for insulated ventilation. They are unsuitable for more serious heating appliances - at high temperatures, zinc burns out, steel quickly rusts, and the chimney becomes unusable.

Sandwich pipes for high temperature flue gases are made of stainless steel. Moreover, stainless steel is used in different grades - from alloys with a low content of alloying metals, to high-alloy heat-resistant. The thickness of the metal can also be different - from 0.5 to 1 mm, as well as the thickness of the insulation - 30 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm. It is clear that the scope will be different, and the price too.

As is clear from the table, different grades of stainless steel have different purposes. Cheaper alloys are used for the outer casing, more heat-resistant and expensive - for the inner. This is necessary to reduce the cost of production, and high resistance to temperatures outside the chimney is not needed. There are even more budget options - the outer casing is made of galvanized steel. Outwardly, these products lose to stainless steel, but they serve normally (with normal insulation and its thickness).

Insulation and its thickness

Between the two layers of metal is a heater. Most often it is stone wool. The thickness of the insulation is from 30 to 100 mm:

• With 30 mm thick insulation, the flue gas temperature must not exceed 250°C. Such temperatures are produced only by gas boilers of small and medium power.
• A 50 mm thick insulation layer can withstand temperatures up to 400°C. Scope - any gas and liquid fuel boilers, wood-fired, provided that the chimney is led outside (through the wall).
• A 100 mm stone wool layer allows it to withstand temperatures up to 850°C. Such a sandwich chimney can be installed on any type of solid fuel boiler, in fireplaces and hearths.

In addition to the thickness of the insulation, it is necessary to pay attention to its brand, or rather, to the temperature range in which it can work. Not all stone wool can withstand temperatures up to 850°C, but only some special brands. If you need a chimney for a solid fuel boiler, you will also have to take into account the heat resistance of the insulation.

A set of elements from which a sandwich chimney of any configuration is assembled

Connection types

The elements of a chimney sandwich can be connected to each other in two ways: sockets and corrugated edges. The socket connection assumes the presence of a slightly wider chamfer on one side. With this design, a high degree of tightness of the chimney is achieved. This type of sandwich pipe is well suited for gas boilers where it is important to prevent leakage. There is a minus: installation requires high accuracy.

The corrugated edge of the sandwich allows you to assemble the chimney without problems. The downside of this solution is that a significant amount of high-temperature sealant is required to ensure tightness, and it costs a lot.

Features of sandwich pipes for chimneys

It is also worth paying attention to the longitudinal seam. It can be welded or folded. If the seam is welded, it must be made in an argon protective environment (so that alloyed metals do not burn out). It is this type of connection that is required for solid fuel boilers, sauna stoves and fireplaces. For all others, you can use the seam connection.

Mounting methods

There are two ways to bring the chimney outside. The first is to lead the pipe through the wall, and then raise it along the outer wall to the required level. The second - up, through the ceiling and roof. Both of them are imperfect.

If the chimney is outside, due to the temperature difference, condensation actively forms in it. Therefore, a tee with a condensate collector (glass) and a cleaning hole must be installed in the lower part of the chimney. This unit allows you to maintain the chimney without much difficulty: the glass is unscrewed, the condensate is drained. Also, soot is periodically knocked off without problems - a special brush for the chimney can be run through the cleaning hole.

Approximate diagram of the passage of the chimney pipe through the wall and roof

If the chimney is led out through the roof, several passage nodes will be needed - according to the number of overlaps. If the house is one-story, you will need one passage through the ceiling, and the second through the roof. You will also need a master flash or apron for a round galvanized pipe.

Installation of a sandwich chimney on the street requires only one pass-through node - through the wall. But it will be necessary to fix it to the wall every 1.5-2 meters. If the walls of the building are combustible (wooden house or frame), the walls are necessarily protected by a non-combustible screen.

Smoke or condensation

Assembly types of sandwich pipes

As mentioned above, one side of the sandwich pipe is slightly wider, the other is slightly narrower. Due to this difference in diameter, the modules are connected to each other. If the wider end is turned up (in the figure on the right), the assembly is called "condensate". With this method of installation, drops of condensate flow down unhindered. The disadvantage of this method is that with insufficient sealing of the joints, smoke can seep into microcracks. This type of installation of a sandwich chimney is used when the pipe is led through the wall. This is where the free flow of condensate is required, and small smoke leaks are not terrible - they are not critical on the street.

If a narrower edge turns up, the second element is put on top of it with a wider part. This type of assembly is called "smoke" (in the figure on the left). In this case, the condensate flowing down the wall can seep through an insufficiently well sealed joint. But the smoke passes freely. This type of assembly is used if the pipe goes indoors (outputs through the roof). The condensate flowing through the pipe, of course, spoils the appearance, but it is not as dangerous as flue gases leaking into the room. Moreover, with good sealing of the joints, condensate will not leak.

In order for the connection of the chimney sandwich modules to be reliable, each of them is usually coated with a heat-resistant sealant, and then tightened with a clamp.

Sandwich chimneys are good because they have a modular structure, which allows you to assemble any configuration, with any parameters. Before you go to the store, you need to know the required chimney diameter, pipe height and those additional elements that will be needed.

Chimney diameter

When choosing the diameter of a sandwich pipe, a simple rule applies: it cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe. If your outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the inner diameter of the sandwich should be the same or larger. It may be wider, but less - definitely not, and narrowing cannot be done throughout the chimney. If the chimney is slightly wider than the pipe, an adapter is purchased, which is placed directly on the boiler outlet, and then the working size already goes.

If there is no boiler yet, but you know its power, you can choose a chimney based on these data:

• boiler power up to 3.5 kW - inner diameter of the sandwich - 80 mm;
• from 3.5 kW to 5.2 kW - at least 95 mm;
• more than 5.2 kW - 110 mm and more.

But it is better to buy (or at least choose) a boiler, and then decide on a chimney, because many manufacturers insure themselves by making the outlet pipes wider - to improve traction.

Installation of a sandwich chimney begins with determining the diameter

Pipe height

The height of the chimney above the roof surface depends on the place of its output, but at the same time its minimum height should be 5 m. That is, if the height of the house is small, in any case, bring the pipe to a height of 5 meters. If the height of the house is higher than 5 m, then the pipe should rise above the roofing material to the following height:

• Should rise above the ridge by 50 cm if it comes out at a distance of less than 150 cm from it.
• If the distance from the ridge to the pipe is more than 300 cm, then the pipe may be lower than the level of the ridge, but the angle should not exceed 10° (see figure).
• If the chimney exits at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge, its height may be at the same level as the ridge element or higher.

Under such conditions, normal traction is provided. The smoke will normally go away regardless of weather conditions. To prevent leaves from entering the chimney, they put special umbrellas, weather vanes, and in windy places - deflectors, which further improve traction.

Height of the sandwich chimney pipe

If it is not possible to bring the pipe to such a height, they put a smoke exhauster - forced draft is obtained. The fan will not be needed all the time, but in some conditions, when natural draft is not enough, a forced draft saves the day.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

There are two ways to lead a smoke tube through a wall. The first option (in the photo on the left) is to raise it indoors closer to the ceiling, and bring it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the flue pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney is on the street.

How can I bring a sandwich chimney through the wall

The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means that, under equal conditions, traction will be better. Also, with this structure, there is less chance of the formation of soot plugs.

If the flue outlet is not at the back of the stove, but at the top, the installation scheme changes slightly - a 90 ° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then the same as in other schemes.

The stove itself is placed on a non-combustible base, the wall behind the stove is closed with a non-combustible screen. The easiest way is to fix a sheet of metal on the wall. You can mount on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be a layer of air between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall will be safe. The second option is to place heat-insulating material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).

Preparation of a place for the installation of a furnace and a PPU installed in the wall with a piece of pipe

A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm on all sides, and to combustible ones - 450 mm. It turns out a solid hole, especially when it comes to walls made of combustible materials. There is one point with which you can reduce the size of the hole for the passage of the sandwich: make the dimensions according to the norms of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.

An example of organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through a wall

The opening can be round or square, as long as fire safety standards are maintained. It is easier to make and sheathe square holes, therefore they are more often made.

This is how a pipe passage through a wall sealed with a sheet of metal looks like

A passage unit is inserted into this hole - a box made of non-combustible material. A sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it, fixed in the center. All gaps are laid with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. Usually it is a sheet of metal.

A passage node is inserted from the side of the room. In this case, it is made of minerite, but it can also be metal

One important point: it is necessary to develop a chimney so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and serviceable.

Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will support the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, with the help of stops, transfers weight to the wall.

A similar design can be welded from a profile pipe of a small section of 25 * 25 mm or 25 * 40 mm.

As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that runs through the wall. At the bottom there is a removable glass in which condensate accumulates. Some models have a fitting with a small tap at the bottom. This is even more convenient - you don’t need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, take it into some kind of container (it is very toxic, so you don’t need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.

Next, the tuba is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will obviously be more than 3 m, it is possible that the height of the chimney is slightly lower than the ridge - not lower than 10 ° in relation to the horizontal line drawn from the level of the ridge.

Lead the chimney preferably above the ridge

But since this house is located in a lowland, to ensure traction, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge. It was fastened to the wall with stainless steel clamps, with a step of a little more than a meter. On the roof there are stretch marks made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. To install stretch marks, there are special clamps "with ears" to which stretch marks are attached.

Fastening stretch marks to the chimney from sandwich tubes

Another important point that many people forget about: at the place where the pipe is installed, on the roof, you need to install a snow retainer section, otherwise, in the spring, the pipe can be blown away with snow (if the pipe is not brought out towards the gable, as in the photo).

How to install a chimney through the roof

When removing the chimney from the sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafter legs on the roof. It is necessary to guess so that the pipe passes between these elements. The minimum distance from the outer wall of the pipe to the fuel element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the fuel element is protected by insulation. To meet this requirement, the pipe often has to be moved. Do this using two 45° angles.

Offset pipe to pass through the ceiling

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins with a metal pipe without insulation. She is black in the photo above. After it, an adapter is placed on a sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

A hole is cut in the ceiling that meets fire regulations - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected by heat-insulating material. Having cut a hole, its edges are covered with non-combustible heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (nailed or fastened with wood screws).

Gray material around the perimeter of the hole - minerite

A chimney sandwich pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. You can’t fix it rigidly, you can only give direction by installing a few slats that will hold it, but it can move up / down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated, its length increases significantly.

The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay, granular foamed glass. Previously, sand was still covered, but sooner or later, it all woke up through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. On the front side, all this “beauty” is covered with a stainless steel sheet, under which non-combustible material is placed (between it and the ceiling). Previously, it was asbestos sheet, but since asbestos was recognized as a carcinogen, mineral wool cardboard was used.

There is one more option. Beat the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-through unit. It immediately has both a box and a decorative stainless screen.

Ready-made ceiling-through node (one of the options)

Having brought the pipe to the attic, they make a hole in the roofing pie. All films at the passage point (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. So the damage is minimal. The exposed crate is cut so that there is at least 13 cm to the pipe.

How to bring the chimney through the roof - the passage of the ceiling and roof

In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In a good way, it is necessary to cut them according to the standard, beat them with the same mineralite. You should get something similar to the following photo.

Correct passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof

Master flash for sandwich chimney - rubber cap with flexible "skirt"

The junction of rubber and pipe is sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. The roof surface under the “skirt” is also coated with a sealant.

Tube-mounted master flash

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Do-it-yourself installation of a sandwich chimney: into the wall, through the roof

In order for the independent installation of a sandwich chimney to be correct and safe, you need to know the rules and fire regulations. How to bring a sandwich pipe through a wall, roof, read the article.

The chimney is an important part of the proper arrangement of the furnace, solid fuel or gas boiler. The efficiency of the heating device and the fire safety of the heating system depend on its proper design and installation.

Chimneys in a house, especially a wooden one, or in a bath should be made of various refractory materials. Brick chimneys are resistant to high temperatures, durable and aesthetic, but at the same time, the porous and heterogeneous structure of the brick contributes to the accumulation of moisture, the deposition of combustion products - soot and soot. As a result, the clearance of the chimney overgrows, the draft deteriorates, and the operation of the furnace becomes unsafe. It is especially undesirable to use brick chimneys in systems for removing smoke from solid fuel, including pellet, boilers with a closed combustion chamber.

Ferrous metal pipes are not recommended for use in wooden houses and baths, as well as when installing a gas or solid fuel boiler: they get very hot and burn out quickly, which can lead to a fire. Sometimes chimneys from such a pipe are mounted in brick garages and other utility rooms, but even there they are ineffective, as they are subject to corrosion and condensation.

The most successful solution is insulated sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel and ceramics. The round section of the pipes facilitates the passage of smoke and ensures good draft. Soot settles less on a smooth inner surface. Due to the insulation, the formation of condensate is excluded. Thanks to the modular system, their installation is easy to do by hand. Structurally, stainless steel and ceramic sandwich chimneys are somewhat different.

Ceramic Sandwich Chimney is a system of modules, each of which consists of an internal ceramic pipe element and a hollow foam block. For thermal insulation, they are separated by a layer of basalt insulation. The modules are delivered unassembled, assembly is carried out on site using special glue and sealant. To install a ceramic chimney, a foundation is required due to their significant weight.

Stainless steel sandwich chimneys are sold in the form of ready-made modules. They are two pipes of different diameters, nested one inside the other, and separated by a layer of insulation. The inner pipe is made of stainless steel, the outer one can be either stainless steel or galvanized sheet. They are assembled much faster than ceramic ones. In addition, due to its low weight, a stainless steel chimney does not need a foundation.

In terms of fire resistance, ceramic chimneys are superior to all others, they can withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees Celsius for a long time, some models are equipped with ventilation systems. The service life of such chimneys is at least 50 years. But the price of ceramic chimneys is high, so their installation is advisable only in residential buildings, cottages and other capital buildings.

General installation rules

Quite stringent requirements are imposed on chimneys. Their observance is mandatory for any structures made of sandwich pipes.
• To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney from the grate of the heating unit must be at least 5 meters.
• The chimney located at the ridge should rise 0.5 m above it, in other cases its height is determined according to the diagram below.

• In this case, it is necessary to take into account the buildings standing next to the house or bathhouse, the outlet of the chimney should be 1.5 m higher than their roof.
• If, as a result of calculations, the height of the chimney above the roof turned out to be more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to foresee its fastening on stretch marks to rigid structural elements in advance.
• If the roof material is combustible - ondulin, roofing felt, soft roof, then the top of the chimney must be equipped with a spark arrestor - a special module with a 5x5 mm mesh.
• The smoke channel must not be narrowed, for example, modules with an internal diameter of 110 mm cannot be installed for a furnace with a 120 mm smoke nozzle. Widening is allowed, however, special adapters must be used.
• The length of horizontal sections should not exceed 1 m. If the vertical pipe is located at a greater distance from the heater, it is necessary to use 45 degree bends.
• Elbows, tees and other adapters of sandwich chimneys must be unloaded - installed so that they do not carry the weight of the higher structure. For this, support platforms are used.
• All module joints must be accessible for inspection. They must not be placed in overlapping areas. To ensure this requirement, it is necessary to select the length of the straight sections of the chimney.

Correct assembly sequence

1. First, the outlet pipe of the boiler or furnace is connected to the lower element of the chimney - a single-layer uninsulated pipe. It can consist of several modules and be vertical, horizontal or bent 45 or 90 degrees.
2. An adapter is used to switch to an insulated pipe. It is put on an uninsulated pipe, smearing the joint with a special sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 1300 degrees Celsius.

• Do-it-yourself further assembly is carried out from insulated elements. They are inserted into each other so that the upper part is put on the lower one. The top can be determined along the edge of the pipe - it is wavy, which facilitates docking. With such an installation, the internal channel is connected “along the smoke”, that is, the direction of the joints is located so as not to interfere with the smoke flows inside. All elements are connected to a heat-resistant sealant.

According to the place of installation, smoke exhaust systems are divided into internal, passing through the interfloor ceilings and the roof, and external, located at the outer wall of the building. The output of the chimney in this case is done through the wall of the house or bath.

• The part passing through the heated premises may be made of a single stainless pipe - its surface heats up strongly during the combustion of fuel and additionally gives off heat. When passing through an unheated attic in a house or bathhouse or outside, the chimney needs to be insulated, so sandwich modules are used for this part of it.
• A straight chimney can rest directly on a heating device - a stove, a pellet boiler. In the presence of bends, bends, it is mandatory to install support platforms at the level of floors, at least every 5 meters.

• When installed outdoors, the system is fixed using wall mounts - brackets with clamps. They are sold complete with chimneys. The lower part of the chimney is supported on a cantilever bracket.
• The pipe is equipped with purges in places convenient for access. They are a tee with a plug put on the outlet. If necessary, the plug is removed and the smoke channel is inspected and cleaned of soot. A plug with a condensate receiver is installed at the bottom of the pipe.

• The greatest attention should be paid to passages through walls, ceilings and roofs. For them, special modules are used: “passage through the ceiling” and “passage through the roof”. The top of the pipe is completed with an umbrella to ensure fire safety, improve traction and ventilation.

In a wooden house

Before you do the installation of a smoke removal system with your own hands, you need to study the fire requirements for chimneys installed in a wooden house.

In addition to the above, they have a number of features:
• the distance from an uninsulated chimney to any combustible surfaces must be at least 25 cm horizontally and 80 cm vertically;
• the passages of the chimney through the roofs are necessarily carried out with the help of passage units - metal boxes filled with heat-insulating material, usually basalt mats;
• in the case of connecting several smoke channels into one, it is advisable to place the vertical chimney in a separate box made of non-combustible material, for example, foam concrete.

An audit of all sections of the stainless steel chimney in a wooden house must be carried out at least twice a year! If you find external damage, discoloration of steel, rust, you must make sure that the inner pipe is intact - it could burn out!

You can get acquainted with simple designs of cold smoked smokehouses and methods for their manufacture at home and in the field.
Details of all the stages of manufacturing a smoke generator for cold smoking are described in the following article:

In the bath

Bath - a place of increased fire danger. The heating of wooden surfaces in the bath reaches 90-100 degrees, and the temperature at which wood begins to char is 120-150 degrees with prolonged exposure. The wooden elements located near the chimney heat up the most. Therefore, fire safety distances must be strictly observed.

The sequence of installation of passages through the wall and ceiling in the bath, which can also be used in the house, is shown in the video.

Since the largest part of the heat loss in a wooden bath occurs through the ceiling, the pipe is often led out through the walls.

Chimney for buleryan

Connecting Buleryan to the chimney with your own hands does not generally differ from other types of heating appliances, but it is necessary to take into account the features of the combustion mode in this type of furnace.

Due to the efficient afterburning of flue gases, their temperature at the outlet of the furnace does not exceed 200 degrees. As it moves along the pipe, it decreases even more, the pipe warms up weakly, which can cause condensation on the pipe walls. When soot is deposited on wet walls, carbonic acid is formed, which adversely affects materials such as brick, ferrous metal, and asbestos.

Therefore, additional requirements are imposed on chimneys for buleryan:
• recommended height - from 3 to 4 meters;
• the length of the horizontal section - strictly no more than 1 meter;
• the material of the inner surface must be resistant to acid - stainless steel or ceramic sandwich chimneys;
• it is recommended to insulate all sections of the chimney except for the exit from the buleryan;
• the chimney must be equipped with a condensate collector and cleanings.

The effective operation of the buleryan is possible only with access to the furnace of fresh air, therefore it is advisable to use a modular ceramic chimney with channels for ventilation, its installation due to the prefabricated modular design can be done by hand.

For solid fuel boilers

Conventional solid fuel boilers, burning coal, wood or having a pellet burner, are characterized by high flue gas temperatures. Pyrolysis boilers with a long burning mode burn the combustion products contained in the smoke more efficiently, therefore they have a lower outlet temperature, and, like buleryan, they are prone to increased condensate formation.

Before ordering chimney accessories for a solid fuel boiler, the following characteristics should be clarified from the technical data sheet:
• boiler type;
• location and diameter of the flue pipe;
• flue gas temperature;
• recommended chimney height for good draft;
• the need for additional ventilation.

You should also inspect the design of the boiler and assess the difficulty of cleaning the flue pipe. If access to it from inside the boiler is difficult, it is necessary to provide an inspection tee in the immediate vicinity of the boiler outlet.

If the pellet boiler is equipped with a closed combustion chamber, it would be more appropriate to install a coaxial chimney with a ventilation system.

For gas boilers

Gas boilers are heating units with a closed combustion chamber, so the installation of a coaxial chimney will be the most effective for them. It is a structure consisting of two pipes of different diameters, while the smaller pipe is inserted into the larger one and fixed in it with the help of jumpers.

Along the inner contour of the coaxial pipe, flue gases are removed from the combustion chamber of the gas boiler to the street, and air moves in the opposite direction along the gap between the chimney pipes. It enters the combustion chamber and supports combustion, while there is no air intake from the room where the gas boiler is installed, which significantly improves the microclimate in the house and eliminates the installation of an additional ventilation system.

Air is a good heat insulator, so the outer surface of the coaxial chimney heats up slightly. At the same time, the air in the ventilation duct is heated, and it enters the combustion chamber of the gas boiler already warm, which increases the efficiency of the boiler.

The installation of a coaxial chimney for a gas boiler is most often done through the wall, less often through the floors and the roof, as this increases costs. Safe distances from building structures when installing a coaxial chimney are shown in the picture.

Video about installing a coaxial chimney

When installing a conventional sandwich chimney on a gas boiler, it is necessary to make an additional ventilation system with your own hands, since the oxygen necessary for combustion will be absorbed from the air.

Proper installation of the chimney is the key to a long and safe operation of the heating system both in the house and in the bath. It is possible to make it with your own hands, but if there is even the slightest doubt in your abilities, it is better to entrust this task to professionals. They will make calculations, help you choose the best type of chimney, install a gas exhaust and ventilation system, and the owner of the house will only have to independently inspect and clean the chimney.

Despite the rich assortment of electric and gas boilers on the modern market, solid fuel stoves are in no hurry to give up their positions. Due to the autonomy of use and affordable price, they are the best choice for country houses, cottages and baths.

For the correct and safe operation of the furnace, it is necessary to correctly design and install the chimney. But often, at the stage of building a house, people miss the need to install a chimney at the same time as building walls. This problem has many solutions: output through floors, roofs. The best option would be to install a chimney through the wall, which will help not only significantly save the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe interior, but also reduce the number of nodes, passages through the floors.

How to properly install, and what materials are best to use - we will tell in this article.

Despite the huge choice of materials for the construction of chimneys, double-circuit steel pipes, popularly referred to as "sandwich", are the most widely used today.

The chimney type "sandwich" is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes of different diameters, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, which simultaneously serves as an insulator and a heater.

Video: Sandwich pipe chimney

Compared with single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and better technical characteristics. For installation of a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. Indeed, due to just one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to a sharp temperature drop in such a chimney, condensate forms, which reduces draft and creates plugs in the pipe.

Therefore, for installing a chimney through a wall, the best option would be to buy a sandwich pipe. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to the low price compared to a brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, the installation of a chimney from this material can be done by hand. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

Advantages and disadvantages of a sandwich pipe

• The heat-insulating layer prevents the outer pipe from heating up to a critical temperature.
• Compactness and versatility of use.
• The smooth surface of the inner casing increases the draft of the chimney.
• Low price compared to ceramic material.
• Operating temperature up to 850 degrees (for single-circuit pipes, for comparison, 500 0).
• Easy assembly.
• Increased fire safety of the home.
• Easy maintenance compared to a solid pipe chimney (less soot accumulates).
• Does not create additional noise when drafting smoke.

The only drawback of the multi-layer construction can be called a decrease in sealing after a long time. Due to sudden changes in temperature, air can penetrate at the junction of sections.

Specifications of sandwich pipe

1. Material. As a heat-insulating material, basalt fiber (mineral wool) is mainly used. This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and chemicals. Mineral wool has excellent heat-insulating/sound-insulating properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. For the inner casing, more expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly produced by galvanized steel, while the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

1. Connection type. Elements of sandwich pipes are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but a large amount of sealant is needed to ensure tightness, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, so that the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for a very precise fit of all parts.

Chimney installation rules

1. In no case should the chimney be laid in the place where communications pass (electrical wiring, sewerage, etc.).
2. To minimize heat loss, most of the structure is recommended to be located indoors.
3. The outer part of the chimney must end with the installation of a deflector to prevent precipitation from entering. Don't forget about the snow guard. They will protect the gas outlet from damage.
4. Observe the step of fixing the structure to the wall no more than one meter in order to avoid further curvature of the chimney.
5. The place where the pipe passes through the wall must be additionally protected with heat-insulating material. To do this, the diameter of the hole must be made slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe.
6. The sandwich pipe cannot be installed as the first pipe above the firebox. It is preceded by the so-called "sandwich start".
7. The length of horizontal straight sections of the chimney should not exceed 1 m.
8. When designing a chimney, keep in mind that when passing through the wall there is a solid pipe without joints. All connections must be visible and directly accessible.

Choosing the type of chimney outlet

The chimney through the wall can be done in two ways. The first option involves raising the pipe closer to the ceiling with a subsequent exit. The second option is a design that goes immediately from the boiler in a straight line.

In the second option, almost the entire chimney is outside the house. The advantage of this type of design is that only one elbow will need to be used, which will affect the traction efficiency. Yes, and the likelihood of soot plugs is much less.

Before performing installation work, it is necessary to draw an assembly plan, calculating the diameter of the chimney and its height. In doing so, some factors should be taken into account.

Warm air rises, which means that the higher the chimney, the greater the thrust. It also depends on the diameter, so it is very important to correctly determine what size chimney you need. The power of the heater also affects its size.

We calculate the diameter of the structure

The diameter of the double-circuit pipe directly depends on the size of the nozzle of the boiler plant. Therefore, it is difficult to draw an installation diagram without knowing what type of heater will be used. A simple rule applies here: the inner casing of the sandwich should in no case be smaller than the nozzle itself. You can take more.

For example, if the diameter of the outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the internal diameter of the sandwich pipe must be the same size or larger. In no case should "narrowing" at the junction of pipes and throughout the entire chimney be allowed, otherwise this may affect the draft.

The type of heater also affects the diameter of the chimney. Therefore, if you are building a smoke exhaust structure before buying a stove or boiler, then immediately consider its power.

If the power of the heater does not exceed 3.5 kW, then the diameter of the inner casing can be limited to 80 mm. For more powerful boilers (up to 5.2 kW), the pipe size should be increased to 95 mm. The larger the diameter of the inner tube, the faster it will cool.

Determine the height of the chimney

The calculation of the height of the chimney pipe depends on the overall height of the house. With an insignificant height of the house (up to 5 meters), the height of the chimney in any case should be at least 5 meters. A short chimney can cause "smoke" at home, and the power of the device is significantly reduced due to poor draft. And an excessively long pipe will increase fuel consumption, as if “forcing” the operation of the heater, which affects the low efficiency of the heating system.

The optimal length of the pipe is considered to be a range of 5-10 meters.

If the house is higher than 10 meters, then we are guided by the roof ridge. The chimney must be 0.5 meters higher than the ridge so that no turbulence is created. Consider the material from which the roof is made. If the roof is covered with combustible material, then the upper part of the chimney must be at a distance of 1 meter from the ridge.

How will we assemble the sandwich: by smoke or condensate?

Before starting construction work, you should decide on the type of assembly of the pipes themselves: “by smoke” or “by condensate”.

The construction “by smoke” is characterized by the build-up of sections inward (clearly seen in the figure):

Inner tube: the lower element is inserted inside the upper element of the sandwich.

The outer tube is built in the same way as the inner tube. The lower section is inserted inside the upper contour.

Each next section builds up on the previous element, as if dressing from above. This type of chimney connection is best used in stoves with high combustion temperatures.

The condensate structure is built in the opposite way:

Inner Tube: Take the top section of the sandwich and insert it into the bottom section.

Outer pipe: Here you must proceed in the opposite way. Take the bottom element of the outer tube, and insert it inside the outer tube of the upper element.

With this construction, the condensate flows freely along the outer casing of the chimney into a special sump.

When is it better to use such an assembly scheme?

• at a low temperature of combustion products;
• for external installation of the chimney;
• in ovens with a long burning function;
• in furnaces with smoldering combustion.

Differences between smoke and condensate connections

Considering our task - to assemble a chimney outside the house, the choice of the type of sandwich connection is obvious. The pipes outside the house, under the influence of low temperatures, will cool faster, which means that the likelihood of condensation is high. Under the influence of moisture, soot begins to dissolve, forming acids. These substances pose a serious threat to the pipe surface.

What tools do you need to mount through a brick or concrete wall?

• screwdriver;
• construction gloves for hand protection;
• stairs;
• building level (to check the verticality of the chimney installation);
• perforator (for holes in the wall).

What materials are needed for installation?

• metal box (pipe);
• dowel;
• set of sandwich pipes;
• silicone sealant (necessarily heat-resistant!);
• tee (necessary in order to change the direction of the smoke and connect the pipe directly to the furnace of the heating apparatus).
• knee (45 0 or 90 0);
• support console, bracket (the whole structure rests on it);
• clamps for connecting sections;
• plug (protective umbrella from precipitation and debris).

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney through a wall (brick or concrete)

• Preparatory work. Determine the location of the chimney.
• Installation of a heating device (fireplace, boiler, stove, etc.)
• Making a pipe exit hole through the wall.
• Installation of a branch pipe (metal box)
• Pipe and boiler connection.
• Pipe outlet and connection with a tee.
• Mounting the bracket to the wall and connecting with a tee.
• Installation of the chimney of the required height.
• Roof fixing and plug installation.

Video instruction for installing a chimney through the wall

Now let's take a closer look at each step of the instruction:

	We determine the place where the heater will be located, and therefore the chimney will be laid. Consider the overall design of the house, the exterior and laid communications. Ideally, the outer part of the chimney should run from the side of the gable. If this is not possible, then it will be necessary to install from the side of the slope, taking care of the safety and stability of the structure.
	We are preparing the place where the heater will be installed. The stove itself (fireplace, boiler) is installed on a non-combustible base. Make sure that the plane is perfectly flat. To do this, check it with a building level.
	With a marker on the wall we designate the future opening for the chimney passage. To do this, measure the height of the furnace and the flue pipe. Consider not only the diameter of the pipe, but also the fire safety standards of the heat-insulating layer that will need to be laid between the pipe and the wall. It doesn't matter what shape you make the hole: square or round. This does not affect fire safety in any way, if all standards are met. Consider box size. Double-check the size of the box and the markings on the wall several times. If everything matches, then proceed to cutting a hole.
	We make a hole in the wall through and through with a puncher. We carry out insulation from non-combustible materials. Mounting foam is suitable for brick or concrete walls, but asbestos sheeting can also be used.
	We insert a box of non-combustible material into the resulting opening. According to the PB norms, the thickness of the branch pipe must exceed the thickness of the ceilings by 7 cm.
	We mount the horizontal part of the chimney. To do this, we connect a single chimney (starting sandwich) with a branch pipe using the “smoke” method, that is, insert the starting sandwich inside the branch pipe. Make sure that the connection runs strictly at an angle of 90 degrees.
	We fix the sandwich strictly in the center of the box, and lay the distance between the walls of the pipe and the opening with heat-resistant insulation (foiled mineral wool can be used). From the outside of the wall (from the street), we close the opening with a box plate.
	We bring the pipe through the wall to the street and connect the tee. The lower part of the tee is allocated for the collection of condensate. The element may end with a removable glass, which will periodically have to be removed and cleaned during the operation of the chimney. And it is better to purchase a model with a fitting and a small tap. Maintaining such a chimney will be much easier. It is enough to bring a hose to the fitting and unscrew the rotary valve, thus draining all the condensate. But keep in mind that the substances accumulated at the bottom of the tee are very toxic. Therefore, do not drain them through the hose directly to the house, but take them aside to a safe distance. Also, make sure that there are not a single joint in the way the sandwich passes through the wall. If the length of the pipe is not enough to lay through the hole with a solid structure, then cut the previous element with a hacksaw and make a joint to the entrance.
	We mount the support bracket with dowels from the outer wall of the house. It will account for the main structure, so take care of its reliability and stability. The bracket can also be built independently, using stainless pipes that are welded at an angle of 90 degrees, with an additional support.
	We assemble the chimney from separate sections of the sandwich according to the previously selected method (“by smoke” or “by condensate”). You can easily figure out how to do this, since one part of a double-circuit pipe is always of a smaller diameter. We “reinforce” the joints of the connected sections with metal clamps. Just wrap the clamp around the pipe, tighten it tightly around the diameter of the sandwich and twist it with bolts or nuts. Treat additionally the joint with sealant. The fastening step should be approximately at least 1 meter, but more frequent fixing is also allowed in order to avoid curvature of the chimney. Whichever assembly element you choose, it is best to mount elbows and tees “by condensate”. All joints are well treated with sealant.
	Along the length of the entire chimney, we fix the structure with additional ties and brackets. Make sure that the retainer does not fall on the junction of the pipes. The integral part of the double-circuit pipe is fixed. If the height of the pipe above the roof exceeds 2 meters, then it is necessary to fix it with a metal cable or an additional bracket under the roof.
	We put on a deflector or a protective umbrella on the upper part of the pipe, which prevents debris and precipitation from getting inside. The choice of deflector or protective hood determines the type of heater. According to building codes, the installation of a deflector on the chimney of a gas boiler is not performed. For such a device, it is better to install a weather vane. It will prevent the blowing of the gas boiler, the creation of turbulence and improve traction.

Instructions for installing a chimney through a wooden wall

In general, the installation process through wooden walls is similar to installing a chimney through a concrete or brick wall, however, some nuances related to fire safety should be taken into account. The maximum temperature at which wood begins to char is 200 0 . At 300 0 it starts to burn.

Unlike the previous installation, here it is necessary to pay great attention to the insulation of the chimney channels through the ceilings, so as not to burn the house and smoke the interior. Moreover, this applies to the entire length of the chimney, starting from the heating boiler and ending with the roof of the house.

We need the following tools to work:

• screwdriver;
• sharp knife;
• electric drill (for attaching the bracket);
• jigsaw;
• drill;
• building level (to check the verticality of the chimney installation).

From the materials prepare:

• a metal box for passing through a wooden wall;
• dowel;
• sandwich pipes;
• sealant;
• tee;
• elbow (45 0 or 90 0) depending on the design of the chimney;
• bracket;
• clamps for connecting sections;
• asbestos cloth;
• foil mineral wool (for insulating the pipe opening);
• protective cap, spark-extinguishing mesh.

	We determine the place where the pipe exits (along a horizontal line from the furnace or under the ceiling). We draw with a pencil or marker the required diameter of the hole. When calculating the general design scheme, do not get carried away with too many bends and transitions, as this may affect the further efficiency of the heating system. Two or three transitions with a change in direction will be enough, and even then try to use a leading angle of 450. Also consider the distance of the chimney from the wall. According to fire safety requirements, it should be at least 50 cm for wooden walls.
	We are preparing a place on which the heating device will stand (fireplace, stove, boiler). Given the wooden floors, it is necessary to make a podium of cement screed above the floor to a height of 20 cm or (if this is not possible) lay a heat-resistant coating of galvanized steel - asbestos cardboard.
	If there are wooden walls at a distance of less than 50 cm, then it is necessary to build a protective screen made of bricks to the height of the boiler. When installing a solid fuel stove (potbelly stove), it is desirable to separate the brickwork from the wooden wall with additional thermal insulation (asbestos-cement sheet). Make sure that the plane is perfectly flat. Check all the time with a building level.
	We make a hole in the wall (consider not only the diameter of the pipe, but also the place where the heat-insulating layer is laid between the pipe and the wall). We install a protective metal box. The distance between the inserted box and the wall is carefully isolated with basalt fiber. Additionally, to increase fire safety, we wrap the passing pipe with an asbestos cloth.
	We remove the pipe from the boiler strictly at an angle of 900. This is a very important point and any deviations are not allowed here, since this will subsequently affect the efficiency of the heater. We make sure that there is no pipe joint on the section of the transition through the wall. If you see that the length of the pipe is not enough, you need to cut the previous pipe and build up a solid sandwich element on it.
	We carefully isolate the passage of the pipe through the wall with heat-insulating material, and fasten a metal plate to the outer part of the house with self-tapping screws, protecting the wooden surface from overheating.
	We install a tee on the pipe, which will serve as a smoke direction vector. The lower part of the tee is designed to collect condensate. We make sure that it is clearly located perpendicular to the chimney outlet pipe through the wall. All seams are carefully treated with sealant. We fix a stable support to the wall of the house or to the ground, depending on the overall design of the chimney channel.
	We begin the vertical build-up of the gas outlet channel from the bottom up according to the previously selected type (“by smoke” or “by condensate”).
	Every 100 cm (60 cm is possible) we fix the chimney to the wall with metal brackets. We follow the strict verticality of the structure. To do this, use the level, checking if there is any deviation. It is also very important to fasten against the solid part of the chimney channel, and not at the junction. We fix the upper part of the pipe with a metal clamp and be sure to install a snow retainer on the roof so that the structure is not damaged under the influence of precipitation.
	We install a cap on the cut of the sandwich with the help of bolts or self-cutting screws. To improve traction, use a deflector. When installing a chimney in a wooden house, you can play it safe and attach a spark-extinguishing mesh to the deflector. It will protect the roof from sparks. This metal mesh will also reliably protect the chimney from getting leaves, birds, debris inside.

As you can see, installing a chimney through a wall does not require high qualifications and more experience. The main thing is to correctly calculate the height and diameter of the chimney and purchase high-quality material.

If you carefully consider all the points and clearly follow the instructions, then you will definitely cope with this task. And the video will help you visually study the process of installing the chimney.

Video. Installation of a chimney for a fireplace

17 June 2014 Alexei

The fact that the operation of any heating apparatus is impossible without a gas exhaust system is known to everyone. But you have to think about where and how it will be installed in 50 cases out of 100.

Because when building a cottage, very often they simply lose sight of the need to equip a smoke channel simultaneously with the construction of walls and ceilings.

In the case of its implementation in an already built house, it is necessary to lay the chimney directly through the wall. How it should be installed will be described below.

How important is such a design as a chimney?

The need to remove combustion products is due to various factors. Among them, the main thing is not even the efficient operation of the boiler or furnace, but the life and health of the people around. Everyone knows that carbon monoxide poisoning can be fatal, so it should not get into the room.

Another fact confirming the need for a chimney is that no fuel will burn without oxygen. And its entry into the system, again, is carried out through the smoke channel.

As for its implementation not in the traditional version - but through one of the walls, this is most often caused by the lack of standard smoke channels.

Installation rules

What you need to know to properly install the chimney through the wall? There are several key points that should be taken into account when arranging it. The first is that communications cannot be located where the channel will pass.

Installation of a chimney, from a sandwich pipe, watch the video:

Secondly, the places where the chimney passes through the wall are closed with a protective casing, but it is better to plaster it, having previously filled the space with heat-insulating material.

Thirdly, the chimney mounts are installed with a gap of 60 mm.

Fourth, for such a design, double-circuit systems are usually used, since they are better protected from mechanical influences with the obligatory installation of a valve that allows you to adjust the draft.

Having studied the rules listed above, you will be able to mount a sandwich chimney passing through the wall in accordance with established standards. This will be a design that perfectly copes with its functions, which means it can make the operation of the equipment efficient and safe for others.

The specifics of the installation of the internal structure

The difference between horizontal chimneys is their most efficient heating. It's easy enough to explain. The heated products of combustion rise up, and since the horizontal structure has a large area, the heating improves. But if the chimney is installed through the wall, sharp corners in the structure are not allowed, as they can lead to turbulence.

Important for horizontal construction and the thickness of the seams. If there is even a small difference, the internal section changes. And of course, clogging of the pipe with soot is unacceptable, otherwise the traction will worsen.

Installation steps

How to install a chimney through the wall? Installation begins from the heater with the connection of the pipe and the boiler, and then proceeds directly to the installation of the structure. How to run a chimney through a wall? To do this, prepare the place of its passage by first marking, and then making a hole for the through pipe.

The next step is the installation of the pipe. It is fastened in an opening made in accordance with its dimensions with the obligatory insulation of their foil mineral wool.

How to make a chimney through the wall if you need to change its direction? In this case, a tee with a cleaning glass is used, which is easy to dismantle for subsequent cleaning. It is fixed with a bracket.

Then the exhaust pipe is fixed on the wall surface with a special fastener with a gap between the elements of no more than 2 m.

Watch the video, the passage of the pipe through the roof:

The last stage is the withdrawal of the structure through the overhang of the roof. At the same time, it is necessary to know that it is not allowed to connect pipe elements to each other at the exit point. Upon completion, a protective umbrella is installed to prevent precipitation from entering the structure.

Features of the chimney through a wooden wall

If it is necessary to install a pipe through the log structure of a building, it will be necessary to insulate it with non-combustible material (asbestos or brick).

This is done in accordance with fire safety rules and will allow the gas exhaust system to be operated for a long time with minimal maintenance and repair costs.

The best option is a vertical installation of the chimney through a wooden wall, which involves the use of one pipe without bends and turns. To adjust the traction, a gate is installed in it.

The chimney is fixed at regular intervals not exceeding 1 m, and the neck is covered.

And remember that the installation of a gas removal system is a responsible procedure, which must be prepared thoroughly. After all, the functionality and efficiency of the entire system depends on the correctness of its implementation.

Before purchasing and installing a combustion products removal system, it is necessary to determine the power of the heating apparatus. It depends on the diameter of the pipe.

The calculation of the height of the structure is performed to obtain good traction, without which the effective operation of the equipment is impossible. The chimney passing through the wall cannot be either too short or too long.

In the first case, smoke and soot will enter the room, and in the second, fuel will be quickly consumed. With a large draft, the operation of the equipment becomes inefficient, because heat is also removed from the room along with the gases.

To avoid such situations, experts recommend that all work be carried out taking into account existing norms and rules. The chimney must be connected to the boiler using the appropriate elements - an elbow, a tee or a pipe.

And those who install heating equipment in an already built house should be aware that it will be very difficult to make the classic installation option. In this case, the best solution is to lead the chimney through the wall and install the pipe outside the building.

This design requires mandatory insulation, because with strong heating, temperature loads will lead to the destruction of the wall.

And it can be done in two ways:

• Using a telescopic chimney passage assembly through the wall (pipes with a diameter greater than the main one, along the edges of which protective plates are installed)
• In filling the space between the wall and the structure with mineral wool (used only when laying insulated pipes)

Conclusion

A chimney in a load-bearing wall is the simplest and relatively inexpensive option for a finished house. It will save the owner from the difficulties and interfloor overlaps and will allow you to complete all the work in a shorter time.

The main thing is to choose the right design parameters and connect them. After all, with the slightest mistakes made during the installation process, the operation of all heating equipment can become inefficient, and sometimes dangerous.