Rules for installing a brick chimney for a sauna stove. Do-it-yourself chimney for a bath from a pipe

Chimneys for a sauna stove are the main type of work to protect premises from smoke and fires. If you decide to do the work yourself, it is important to know how to calculate the structure and step-by-step instructions for installing steel and masonry brick chimneys.

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Chimney device for a sauna stove

The chimney for the stove in the bath will need to be done regardless of the type of fuel or the size of the steam room. The principle of operation of any device is based on the ability of heated air to rise up. Exhaust gases, leaving the outlet channel of the furnace, enter the chimney. They can be laid inside the building and along the outer wall.

Each type has a number of advantages, but the most common method of conducting pipes indoors. When passing through ceilings and accessing the roof, it is recommended to equip such places with an additional layer of heat and waterproofing. It is recommended to use heat-insulating sleeves, or wrap the parts with mineral wool or other material.

The device of the chimney of the furnace in the bath

Gases pass through the channels and exit into the atmosphere. The second job of the chimney is to provide reliable and sufficient draft for the normal combustion of fuel. And if at the beginning, when kindling firewood, it is possible to provide additional traction by opening the ash pan and damper, then when the bookmark is burned, the ash pan must be closed Ventilation of the firebox is the concern of the chimney.

Chimney outlet diagrams

The device of the chimney in the bath for a wood-burning stove, depending on the materials and characteristics of the room, can be carried out according to several basic schemes:

Exit through the roof

Through the wall

The choice of scheme and materials for installation depends on the capabilities of the owners of the bath. The main thing is to correctly calculate the optimal size of the chimney.

Chimney calculation

For ease of calculation, it is customary to determine the main size - the internal section of the pipe, depending on the power of the furnaces. The main dimensions and capacities of stoves for individual baths are given in the table.

In such a simple way, you can quickly calculate the amount of materials and dimensions of the future chimney. The protective hood of the chimney must protrude 1000 mm above the roof ridge. When calculating, it is important to take into account the need to equip the structure with a gate valve. Only after determining the cross section and length of the pipeline is it possible to install a sauna stove with a chimney.

Roof pipe height

Types of chimneys

Let us analyze some design features and advantages of each type of ventilation pipes.

from brick

2 methods of masonry are used in the production of a brick chimney:

Indigenous. Such structures are laid out next to the heater and connected to it using pipes. They are used in the arrangement of furnaces from cast-iron parts and in the production of brick heaters. Such designs can serve several devices at the same time.
The mounted type is laid out during the construction of the heater. They can only serve one device.

A brick chimney requires experience and skills in the production of work. It is important to securely seal the seams, evenly lay each brick on all planes. It is important to adhere to the scheme of laying parts at all stages of the construction of the pipe. The advantages of this design include:

creates a constant and sufficient thrust, regardless of the strength of the wind;
brick is a durable material that can serve for a long time;
the material is absolutely unaffected by open fire;
bricks are able to accumulate and gradually give off heat;
such pipes for a bath are more attractive than steel ones.

metal

They are easier and faster to install, the price of such materials is more attractive than a brick chimney. And more modern sandwich pipes are made with a thin but sufficient layer of insulation between the metal layers. But in terms of reliability and durability, steel pipes are inferior to brick ones.

Among the advantages are:

installation speed;
low material prices;
a smooth inner surface prevents the rapid deposition of soot on the walls, but due to the temperature difference, a layer of condensate is deposited on the steel walls.

Other

Pipes for sauna stoves are made of stainless steel with an inner layer of thermal insulation. Such materials are safe for people. With the help of a double-sided steel pipeline, external exhaust systems can be carried out. It is recommended to use parts with a wall thickness of 8 mm or more, with a thermal insulation layer thickness of 5 mm or more.

Ceramic chimneys are used. Such products are imported into the country from Europe, so the price does not allow the use of such parts by a wide range of consumers. The inner surface of the ceramic chimney is absolutely smooth, so the condensate does not stay on them and rolls into the furnace.

Which is better to choose?

Regardless of which chimney is used in your steam room, a metal sauna stove with a brick chimney or stainless steel chimneys for sauna stoves, their main job is to remove exhaust gases from the room. Steel pipes are not durable, but they are easy to replace and the price of such parts is much lower than brick ones.

A brick chimney takes up more space, a layer of soot is deposited on it faster, but the level of accumulation and gradual heat release is higher. Ceramic expensive. Everyone chooses based on their needs and capabilities. The choice of methods is individual, each has advantages and disadvantages.

Chimney making

We will analyze in detail the process of manufacturing the main structures of chimneys with our own hands.

from brick

The work is divided into several main steps. First of all, you need to do preparatory work.

Materials and tools

For work you will need to prepare:

Master OK;
trowel;
building level;
a solution of chamotte clay or simple clay with sand;
a sufficient amount of refractory bricks;

A pipe to the stove in a brick bath will require work to be carried out in a certain sequence.

Step-by-step instruction

Depending on the type of chimney, you will need to perform different types of work. Let us examine in detail the laying of the chimney at the same time as the laying of the stove (the mounted type of the ventilation pipe).

The device of a brick chimney for a sauna stove

Manufacturing instructions:

Installation of the chimney of a brick bath is ready.

metal

Such a pipe is installed quickly and easily.

Materials and tools

A pipe for a bath stove made of steel pipes will require you to buy:

blanks for the pipeline of the required diameter;
clamps for fastening;
protective visor;
a finished sleeve for isolating the passage through the ceiling;
mineral wool;
roofing material or details of a rigid roof.

Step-by-step instruction

The work is carried out in several stages;

Before starting the installation, we protect the walls with a layer of thermal insulation. To do this, you can use foam plates with a mirror outer surface with an inner layer of mineral wool.
Thermal insulation of the wall
We mount the first short section with a slide gate on the outlet pipe from the furnace. A covered damper makes the air mixture depleted of oxygen and the firewood gradually smolders. This design saves firewood.
The pipes are connected into a socket; we use an asbestos cord to seal the joints. Be sure to install the joints in the direction of the smoke exit. At the joints, we fix the pipes with clamps and fasten them to the wall.
In the place of passage through the plates, we install a heat-insulating sleeve, run a pipe and close the hole with asbestos cord and trim.
Option 1

Option 2
At the exit point through the roof, we make a hole along the diameter of the pipe, securely fix the pipe with stretch marks and clamps. A sealing rubber ring can be put on the pipe or wrapped with an asbestos cord. We insulate the passage, close it with a sheet of metal, seal it with a layer of refractory sealant, and lay the roof covering on top.
We bring the pipe to the required height, unfasten it with stretch marks if necessary.
We install a protective visor.
We cover all joints with wide clamps.

Installation of the chimney of the sauna stove made of steel pipes is over. Timely and complete maintenance and repair will extend the life of the chimney made of different materials.

Cleaning and care

The main work is the cleaning of internal surfaces from soot. At the first decrease in the level of traction, it will be necessary to immediately clean the channels from adhering soot. Such work for prevention is carried out at least 1 time in 30 days.

The work is easy. For cleaning, let's skip a cable or wire from above. At the bottom we tie a metal brush along the diameter of the pipe and stretch it along the entire length. You can tie a weight to the cable and clean the soot from above, lowering a heavy blank. After the work, a general cleaning of the steam room will be required, so it is better to close the shelves with polyethylene and take out light things.

People use several other cleaning methods. In winter, having rolled a snowball along the inner size of the pipe, it is lowered into the pipe and, descending, it will clean off the soot from the walls. The easiest and most effective way is to burn a bookmark of aspen firewood in the oven. Aspen releases moisture, which, settling on a layer of soot, will cause it to collapse.

You can install a powerful fan and direct the air flow into the pipe. Just don't forget to warn the neighbors about your operation. Otherwise, troubles and washing of neighbor's things are guaranteed to you.

Conclusion

Making your own chimneys for stoves is a doable task for men. A brick pipe will require knowledge and hard work to make it, but will last a long time. Steel pipes are easy and quick to install. The main thing is to make a chimney of normal section and the fragrant atmosphere in the steam room will not be overshadowed by puffs of smoke.

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According to the overwhelming majority of lovers of bathing traditions, the Russian steam room, like the Finnish sauna, should be heated with firewood. For this purpose, a furnace is installed in the steam room, and the combustion products are discharged outside. The question is how to properly mount such a chimney in the bath, which will provide good traction and last a long time, and most importantly, safely. This article will allow you to get acquainted with the existing types of chimney pipes and how to install them.

Types of chimneys

Currently, homeowners are installing 3 types of chimneys for a bath:

pipe made of stainless steel or ordinary ferrous metal with thick walls;
double-walled pipe with a layer of fireproof insulation - a sandwich chimney;
traditional brick chimney.

A regular pipe is the simplest option, but it is used less and less. People prefer safety over cheapness, and therefore they are increasingly inclined towards sandwiches. Yes, and black streaks of condensate, spoiling the whole appearance of the shiny surface of stainless steel, few people like it. Although, if you make some effort and mount the pipe as expected, such troubles can be avoided. Below we will look at how to do it right.

For reference. Ordinary metal pipes on steel bath stoves are usually put by the owners, who like to do everything with their own hands and save as much as possible on materials.

The double-walled sandwich construction of the channel greatly simplifies installation work and makes the operation of the bath much safer in terms of possible fire and fire. Since the stove is in any case inside the building, on its way the chimney meets various building structures - a wall, a ceiling, a roofing. And far from always they consist of non-combustible materials, which means that an ordinary hot gas flue pipe poses a high fire hazard.

That is why a chimney made of sandwich pipes is good because the temperature on its surface is much lower than the flash threshold of most building and finishing materials. Nevertheless, in accordance with the fire safety rules, a double-walled and brick flue is also indented to combustible structures. By the way, the first 2 types of channels are mounted together with steel sauna stoves, and the third, respectively, with brick ones.

Note. If the furnace itself is brick, then the pipe for the combustion products is made the same, in other cases metal gas ducts are installed.

According to the method of laying, the installation of the chimney in the bath with your own hands is done outside or inside the building. With an outdoor location, a horizontal or inclined section extending from the furnace penetrates the outer wall, and only then joins the vertical section. The internal layout involves the passage of a vertical chimney through the floor and roof structures. These nodes represent the greatest fire hazard, the consequences of improper installation are shown in the photo:

In the photo, when passing through the ceiling, the distance from the pipe to combustible materials was clearly not maintained, which is why the latter began to smolder. The error in the lower photo is obvious - an unacceptably short vertical section, which in this case should rise above the roof ridge.

Chimney installation rules

Places where the pipe passes through the ceiling and other building structures should be considered taking into account the fact that they are lined with wood from the inside, that is, combustible material. At the same time, it does not matter what material the wall or ceiling itself is built from, it is enough that there is a combustible lining. In general, the postulates of laying chimney channels sound like this:

before installing a metal or masonry brick oven, you need to choose a good place so that the future chimney of the bath does not fall on the supporting structures of the roof. It makes no sense then to make unnecessary turns of the pipe, and it is impossible to turn the brick channel. The total number of pipe turns should not exceed 3;
the horizontal section from the stove to the tie-in into the vertical channel should not exceed 1 m in length. The exception is the flue inclined at an angle of 45 °, sometimes used instead of the horizontal one. But even here you should not get carried away, make this segment as short as possible;
a single-walled metal chimney must be separated from unprotected combustible floor materials at a distance of 0.5 m. If combustible surfaces are covered with a non-combustible screen, the gap can be reduced to 38 cm. All requirements of fire safety standards are detailed in the figure below;
the same figure shows how to correctly install the chimney in height so that its cut does not fall into the leeward zone. Then the force of natural traction will decrease significantly;
the vertical gas duct must be equipped with a system for cleaning and draining condensate.

A modern regular brick chimney has an insert made of stainless steel or ceramic elements inside. This is necessary in order to avoid the destruction of the walls from the effects of condensate, which, due to the uneven operation of the heat source, freezes in the pores of the brick, crumbling it into pieces.

Starting from the attic floor, it is strongly recommended to protect a single-wall pipe with a heat-insulating layer of fireproof insulation, the best option is basalt fiber. Outside, the insulation is wrapped in a galvanized steel casing. Then condensate will not appear outside the pipe, and the attic space will be protected from fire. When installing a chimney through a wall, the same indents are observed as for passing through the ceiling.

First, about brick structures, which are a continuation of the laying of the furnace. The passage knot, called cutting, is performed by expanding the masonry to the standard dimensions, as shown in the diagram above. It turns out that when crossing the ceiling, it is necessary to withstand a wall thickness of one and a half bricks (380 mm), and roofing - 1 brick (250 mm).

Steel pipes for exhaust gases are usually assembled from sections inserted one into the other. Moreover, it is necessary to mount the chimney in such a way that the condensate inside the gas duct can flow down unhindered. That is, the upper section is inserted into the lower one, this is called the "condensate" assembly. As for modular sandwiches, the inner tube of the upper section to be inserted must enter the lower one, and the outer one should wrap around the casing of the lower one from the outside. In this way, precipitation is removed, calmly flowing to the ground.

Important. No “smoke” assembly, that is, inserting sections one into the other, on the contrary, is allowed.

If you decide to make a chimney for a bath through the ceiling, then you should prepare an opening of the required size in the ceiling. Then make a box with a bottom and a hole for the pipe from roofing steel, fix it in the opening and then install the smoke channel. The space between it and the sides of the box is filled with expanded clay, vermiculite or tightly stuffed with basalt wool. Detailed details of the node can be taken from the diagram:

Advice. Instead of a complex passage assembly, you can use a samovar-type water tank that is built into the ceiling and performs 2 functions at once. Similar successful solutions are offered by many furnace manufacturers, the details are shown in the drawing:

The vertical external chimney is attached to the wall on brackets so that each section has at least 1 bracket. If the sections are long, then the brackets are placed at intervals of 2 m. When making turns, you should avoid installing elbows at an angle of 90 °, try to use bends at 45 or 30 °. The upper section of the chimney can be covered from precipitation with an ordinary umbrella or some kind of deflector can be installed. Better is the one that turns after the wind, preventing it from blowing inside the pipe.

How to clean the chimney in the bath?

Brick or stainless chimneys serving sauna stoves should be cleaned as needed. Practice shows that with year-round use of the bath, such a need occurs at least 2 times a year. For this purpose, there are special brushes tied to a rope with a load so that they can be lowered from top to bottom.

It is necessary to drain the condensate through the tap at the bottom of the pipe, climb onto the roof and lower the ruff inside. Before this, you will need to remove the umbrella or deflector. It is very convenient when a chimney with a hole (revision) is installed in the bath, through which access from below is opened. Then cleaning can be done from both sides, and then remove the soot that has fallen through the hatch.

In addition to the mechanical method, there is also a chemical cleaning of the chimney. On sale there is a tool called a “chimney sweep log”, which is placed in the firebox of the stove and burned there in accordance with the instructions. The tool is quite universal, suitable for any solid fuel heaters and has been repeatedly tested in practice.

Conclusion

Installing a sauna stove is only half the battle. Installation of such an important part as a chimney will take no less time, if not more. It is important to ensure compliance with 2 main requirements: compliance with fire regulations and the presence of good stable traction.

The correct stove for a Russian bath is wood-burning, and it requires a system for removing combustion products from the furnace. Sauna chimney calculated and designed taking into account the thermal power of the heating equipment, its location and structural features. For the construction of such a system, different materials can be used, depending on the design of the furnace.

To build a chimney for a bath with your own hands is quite within the power of even a novice master who does not have practical experience. At the same time, it is important to strictly adhere to the rules for the construction of structures of this kind and the recommendations of specialists. The basic requirements for chimneys and ventilation systems are set out in SNiP 41-01-2003, II-35-76, GOST 9.104-79, as well as in the set of rules NPB 252-98, which regulate fire safety measures.

How to make a chimney in the bath on your own and at minimal cost? The answer to this question is simple: you need to purchase the necessary materials and components and assemble the system on your own. The famous auto designer Ferdinand Porsche said: "If you want to do something well, do it yourself." So is it really more difficult to mount a chimney in a bath than to create a cult car.

The choice of the type of system and settlement and design activities

Our distant ancestors built baths that were heated "in black", the smoke from such structures came out of the holes located under the ceiling. Over time, furnaces have improved and several types of chimneys have been developed, which are classified according to the following criteria:

By design features: straight and labyrinth type.
According to the materials used in the construction process: brick, steel or ceramic pipes.
According to the way the channel is led out of the room: through the roof or through the wall.

To answer a perfectly legitimate question, which chimney is best for a bath you should carefully study the project and make a choice. In this case, one should take into account not only the technical characteristics of the equipment, but also one's own capabilities in the performance of work on the construction or installation of structures.

Warning: in the absence of experience in the construction of furnaces, one should not undertake the construction of a complex labyrinth-type structure. Inevitable mistakes due to lack of skills can lead to improper functioning of the chimney and other serious consequences.

For a small home complex, a factory-made or handicraft metal stove with a heater and a water-heating tank is quite enough. It is better to mount a chimney in a bath of this type from ready-made elements purchased from a retail network. Device details must comply with the requirements of GOST 9817-95 and TU 4863-001-78129737-06. The use of substandard pipes can lead to their premature failure.

To answer the question of how to calculate a chimney for a bath, you should determine the thermal power of the heater. It is indicated in the passport or in the technical documentation of the device. The flow area of the chimney is calculated according to special tables that can be found on the website or in building codes.

Important note: the upper cut of the pipe must be at least 500 mm above the roof ridge, this is necessary to ensure stable traction.

The main elements of the chimney for the bath are given in the list:

Steel or ceramic pipe of rectangular or round section.
Knot with slide gate.
Sandwich casing filled with non-combustible material.
Passing unit for protection of building structures from high temperatures.
Header with thermal insulation.
Protective screens for adjacent sections of walls and ceiling.
Heat exchanger on the chimney for heating water.
Umbrella.

A chimney device in a bathhouse with an outlet channel through the wall will require a number of additional elements: a support structure, a tee and a condensate collection pipe.

Installation of a chimney in a bath: the main stages

Preparation for the installation of the system is carried out during construction and roofing work. Installation of the chimney provides for the device in the wall, ceilings and roof openings for the installation of passage units. Separate operations for the convenience of performers are carried out in the process of performing the main construction work.

Important ! A brick chimney for a bath is built along with a stove on a reliable refractory foundation. This design is heavy and needs a stable support.

In general, the installation process of the system is associated with the installation of a heater. Direct installation of the chimney in the bath is carried out in the following sequence:

A gas outlet channel is mounted on the furnace, fixed on the base, to remove combustion products.
a heat exchanger is installed on it and securely fixed.
In places where the channel exits through the ceilings and the roof, passage nodes are arranged.
The part of the pipe passing through the attic and outside is mounted inside the heat-insulating casing.
At the junction of the smoke channel with the roof, a waterproofing unit, the so-called flash-through, is installed.
At the final stage, an umbrella is mounted on the upper cut of the pipe.

If a chimney is built in the bath through the wall, then the opening for the channel is left from the vertical building structure. Particular attention in the course of work is paid to the joints between the elements of the system, they must be airtight and not have excessive stresses. Such loads can lead to their destruction. Installation of an external type chimney has a number of features; the system must be securely fixed to the wall.

Features of system operation

The bath is mainly used for its intended purpose, as a rule, no more than once a week. During operation, carbon deposits form on the walls of the gas outlet channel, which reduces the effective flow area and can ignite. How to clean a chimney in a bathhouse without involving a chimney sweep. It is easy to do this with the help of a special brush; soot is removed from the pipe through the revision hole.

A do-it-yourself chimney to the bath, made and installed, will last a long time with proper maintenance. Directly before the furnace, especially in winter, it is recommended to first burn some newspapers in the combustion chamber. This will allow you to warm up the smoke channel in a gentle mode and will contribute to the creation of a stable draft.

The chimney is designed in such a way that the natural movement of air through the firebox ensures stable combustion of fuel and removal of products outside the room. The draft is regulated by closing the channel by turning the gate damper. This device allows you to save fuel when burning the furnace.

The correct chimney in the bath, subject to simple operating rules, will not only last a long time, but will also help save expensive fuel. A visit to a bathhouse for a Russian person is not just hygiene procedures, but a whole ritual. Its exact observance is possible only under certain conditions for the creation, which the whole complex of equipment is installed.

Before proceeding with the installation of the chimney, you should study its main parameters. Not only the efficiency of the furnace, but also the fire safety of the bath and people's health depend on the correct choice of parameters. Each manufacturer of boilers gives recommendations on the diameter and height of the chimney, depending on the technical indicators, they must be followed as much as possible. Do not think that the stronger the draft, the better the chimney.

Consider the main problems of chimneys.

Insufficient traction. With weak traction, a limited amount of oxygen enters the furnace, the combustion process slows down, and the calorific value of the furnace drops sharply. In addition, there are risks of gases entering the room; incorrect chimney dimensions often cause reverse draft.
Too much traction. Hot gases do not have time to give off heat in the furnace, the fuel begins to "heat the atmosphere".

Chimneys must meet the requirements of SNiP 2.04.05-91 and DBN V.2.5-20-2001, by the way, they require forced ventilation in the premises. This means that fresh air must be supplied to small baths during the heating of the furnace. It should be noted that our compatriots very rarely comply with this requirement - they save heat.

Regulatory documents for free download

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

DBN V.2.5-20-2001

How to calculate the diameter of the chimney

There are two calculation options: complex and simplified, but they all take into account the amount of oxygen necessary to ensure the combustion of fuel.

Another important point. To exclude the formation of condensate on the walls of the chimney, the temperature of the gases at the outlet of the chimney must exceed +120°C. Condensation on the inside of the pipe causes soot to linger, which quickly reduces traction and requires frequent cleaning.

Optimum chimney characteristics

ParameterValue

D - chimney diameter;
Vr is the volume of air.

To calculate, you need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace (F) and the area of \u200b\u200bthe chimney f, divide the first value by the second and determine the percentage. For example, the ratio of the cross section of the chimney to the cross section of the firebox is 10%. This means that the minimum height of a circular chimney is 7 meters, a square one is 9 meters, and a rectangular one is 11 meters. The difference in height compensates for the eddy resistance created by each type of chimney.

You must understand that these values are only valid with a straight pipe, which is difficult to achieve in a bath. For the most part, the chimneys have different turns, this negatively affects the draft. In order to accurately calculate a specific chimney with various curvatures, you will have to invite "professors", and we advise you to slightly increase the resulting diameter. All calculations are made with a large margin, plus some increase - this is quite enough for a solid fuel stove.

Some more practical tips for chimneys

BoardIllustration


If a residential building is heated with firewood, then the rules recommend checking the draft every year before the start of the heating season.
If necessary, the chimney is cleaned. In practice, cleaning is done no more than once every 10-15 years. Baths are heated mainly once a week. Accordingly, it is necessary to clean chimneys many times less often. Conclusion - do not make special complex designs for cleaning.
The main "enemy" of the chimney is wet firewood. During combustion, they evaporate a lot of water, the temperature of the gases drops significantly. Condensation is constantly inside the chimney, to which soot adheres. Under such conditions, the chimney may not last even one season. Conclusion - use only dry firewood.
To increase the temperature in the bath, the metal chimney pipe can be attached to several knees - the heat transfer area increases significantly, the bath warms up faster.
Try not to lead the chimney through the roof; it is much easier to place it at the end of the bath. Thus, it will be possible not only to reduce installation time, but also to eliminate the risks of leaks on the roof of the roof.

Chimneys can be brick, ceramic or sandwich pipes (double). Consider the installation of each of these types.

Masonry brick chimneys

First, familiarize yourself with the device of a brick chimney. This is an existing standard, but for a bath, you can simplify the design a bit if you wish. Of course, it should be simplified wisely, changes should not cause the structure to self-destruct or lack the necessary traction.

Brick chimney device

Laying from the furnace to the ceiling is best done on clay mortar, cement-sand mortar can be used above, only cement-sand mortar above the roof.

How to install a chimney?

Step 1. Make markings for the chimney on the ceiling and roof, the holes must be strictly vertical, use a plumb line or level. Saw holes to the calculated dimensions. Prepare goats and mortar.

Step 2 Start laying out the overhead part. It is laid already on the prepared place of the furnace, the conditional diameter of the passage should provide stable traction under various climatic conditions and furnace firing modes.

An important note - make the inner passage as smooth as possible, close the seams immediately. Any irregularities cause turbulence in the air flow, a large number of irregularities can significantly impair traction. Even with normal nominal bore values, traction will be insufficient.

Check the position of each row, it is impossible to correct the mistakes made during laying, the bricks will have to be removed. In order to constantly control the verticality of the chimney, pull the thread between the corner of the first row of the overhead part and the corner of the hole in the ceiling. Such a simple device will allow you to lay bricks vertically. The thickness of the chimney is half a brick, this is enough for a bath.

Chimney - ordering

Step 3. Fluff masonry. This assembly not only protects the ceiling covering from spontaneous combustion, but also serves as an element for fixing the chimney. Fluffing - expansion of the outer walls of the structure, to increase their stability, you need to use pieces of building reinforcement. The fittings must not protrude into the chimney opening and be visible from the outside.

Fluff sizes

Each new row should protrude slightly (a quarter) above the previous one, after three rows the width of the chimney should be one brick. The widest point should be at the level of the ceiling covering.

Step 4 A very important step. The chimney needs to be fixed. To do this, edged boards should be nailed close to the fluff around the entire perimeter. They will hold the chimney and prevent it from swaying during wind loads. Boards are nailed to the top ceiling. Ideally, the fluff is placed close to the ceiling beams, but this situation is rare.

Step 5 It is necessary to transfer the fluff back to the riser. Gradually reduce the outer perimeter of the chimney. So lay the chimney up to the roof covering.

Step 6 Otter. This design serves to drain rainwater. The size of the riser is a quarter of a brick. You need to put it on the same technology as the fluff. To ensure that the internal dimensions of the chimney do not change, use special thin inserts. The height of the otter depends on the angle of the roof. The main condition is that the otter should start from the bottom of the roofing and protrude two rows above the top point.

Step 8 Sealing the joint between the otter and the roofing. Do all sealing work very carefully, the choice of a specific method and additional elements depends on the type of roofing. There are a huge number of different methods, the decision is made on the spot, taking into account the maximum number of existing factors.

Brick chimneys are among the most complex and expensive types of chimneys, modern materials and technologies make it possible to install simpler, but no less effective designs.

How to install a sandwich chimney

New designs, look great, quickly mounted, have a long service life. All performance characteristics are at the highest level. The only drawback is that the price of these structures is at the same high level.

Manufacturers complete their products with a complete set of additional elements: elbows, tees, clamps, plugs, ceiling-through nodes, heads, protective screens. The specific choice of additional materials should be carried out taking into account the design features of the chimney.

One of the advantages of a sandwich chimney is the presence of a layer of insulation that protects the outer pipe from overheating. In addition, this layer allows the inner pipe to heat up quickly, which minimizes the amount of condensate, and this prevents soot from adhering to its walls.

Algorithm for installing a sandwich chimney

Step ##IllustrationDescription


Step 1		Using a plumb line, mark the places where the pipe exits through the ceiling and roof, make holes. Do not forget to leave a distance between the sandwich pipe and the wooden ceiling structures of about ten centimeters along the perimeter of the hole. For thermal insulation, use mineral wool or glass wool, carefully close the pipe entry into the ceiling. Do not be afraid that the mineral wool will become damp, the high temperature of the pipe will quickly dry it out.
Step 2		Remove all dimensions, determine the installation location of the unloading unit. It is made in the attic of the bath, it takes on the load of the pipe coming out of the ceiling. In addition, the unloading unit does not allow lateral vibrations to appear. If you have a large distance between the attic floor and the roof, then you need to install an unloading unit, if the distance does not exceed 1.5 meters, then additional stops are not needed. The unloading unit consists of metal corners and installation elements. Metal corners are fixed to the legs of the truss system, make the fastening as reliable as possible.
Step 3		Install a starter sandwich on the stove outlet, it should fit snugly into the pipe, select dimensions at the time of purchase or change the diameter of the smoke outlet from the stove.
Step 4		Please note: the inner pipe must enter the socket at the outlet of the furnace, and not cover it. All individual pipe sections are inserted one into the other, the transitions and bends must be additionally fixed with clamping clamps.
Step 5		At the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling, a ceiling groove should be installed to close the outlet in the ceiling and make the structure stable. A pipe of a slightly larger diameter (drift) is welded to the ceiling groove than the diameter of the outer pipe of the sandwich, due to this the abutment area increases and deformation is eliminated during the occurrence of strong lateral loads. The pass allows the sandwich chimney to move up/down and does not allow lateral vibrations. In order to minimize heat loss through leaks, it is recommended to use mineral wool. Place it under the ceiling cutout and tightly pull it to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or nails.
Step 6		Make holes in the crate and roofing. Next, proceed to sealing the exit point of the chimney, for this, use the roof penetration. All joints must be sealed with sealant. If you wish and if you have free time, you can put an additional sheet on the cover. The waves must match, secure it with self-tapping screws with sealing rubber washers. Treat all accessible and “suspicious” cracks with sealant. The chimney outlet must be 50 cm above the level of the roof covering.
Step 7		Install a fungus on top of the chimney.

As an experienced master can notice, the installation algorithm is significantly simplified. We did this specifically to speed up and reduce the cost of work. At the same time, the functionality and safety of the chimney has not deteriorated. You can, of course, install spark arresters and deflectors, thermofungi and weather vanes, and other details. If you have the desire and money - install.

Video - Chimney from a sandwich pipe

Video - Installation of a chimney

New systems, characterized by high performance, very reliable and beautiful, relatively easy to install. They consist of three parts: an inner ceramic pipe, a layer of insulation and external facing ceramic bricks of a special profile. At the corners, ceramics have holes for installing metal fittings. At a price more expensive than sandwich chimneys, manufacturers produce a large number of different types of ceramic chimneys that differ in appearance and design features.

Do not require additional protection of wooden architectural elements. The disadvantage is that they can only be upright. We will consider the easiest way to install these types of chimneys in a bath.

Step 1. Prepare the installation site, it must be level. Chimneys can be installed on a separate foundation near the stove or on the top surface of the stove, it all depends on the characteristics of the bath. For masonry, you need to use a special glue, the solution does not provide sufficient strength.

Prepare metal reinforcement with a length of ≈ 1 meter, the diameter of the reinforcement is within. 5÷10 mm. With its help, we will additionally fix the structure, this will make it possible to completely eliminate violations of the integrity of the chimney. Make holes in the ceiling and roof, you don’t need to give a margin, a ceramic chimney will perfectly protect wooden elements from high temperatures.

Step 2 Install the first two halves of ceramics, lubricate the lock with glue, check the position of the halves, align them if necessary. Insert metal fittings about one meter high into the side holes. The gaps between the reinforcement and ceramics must be filled with glue. It is not necessary to achieve complete filling of the hole, it is enough that in several places the glue connects the reinforcement and ceramics.

Step 3 Wind the thermal insulation around the ceramic pipe, pull it a little to the pipe with a metal wire or a special clamp. Do not tighten too much, do not allow the heat insulator to compress. As a rule, a layer of pressed mineral wool is used as a heat insulator.

Step 4 Insert the pipe into the ceramic hole, check its position. To speed up the process, you can immediately wrap all ceramic pipes with insulation, the number of pipes must correspond to the height of the chimney.

Step 5 Put the second ceramic on the glue, check the position again. Now you need to insert another pipe. It is placed in the socket first on the glue. It is difficult to get to the lower socket, you need to make an elementary adaptation. Take a small plastic bag from a dense film, cut off one corner. It should look like a package that women use while spreading cakes with cream. Through the cut corner, the glue will lie exactly in the socket of the pipe. Remove the remaining adhesive from the inner plane of the pipe immediately, do not allow the appearance of various streaks. They swirl the air currents and significantly worsen the draft of the chimney.

Step 6. Repeat the described operations, constantly monitor the position of the chimney. If the length of the protruding reinforcement has become shorter than the height of one block, insert new rods into the holes. Bring the chimney to the attic of the bath.

Step 7 Carefully seal the gaps between the chimney and the ceiling tiles. For these purposes, you can use ordinary wooden skirting boards or a decorative baguette.

Step 8 Fix the chimney in the attic. Cut boards to fit the hole, lay them around the perimeter of the chimney, and nail them firmly to the attic floor. If the height of the attic does not exceed one and a half meters, then such a fixation is sufficient. If the height is greater, you will have to make another design to fix the vertical position of the chimney. Secondary fixation is made to the rafter legs as high as possible. You can make stops from wood or use metal corners. Choose a specific design, taking into account the exit point of the chimney and the features of the truss system of the bath.

Step 9 Seal the roof where the chimney exits. Select the sealing method and materials depending on the characteristics of the roofing. These works in themselves do not require great skill, they only require attention and strict implementation of all technological operations. For sealing, you can purchase factory-made additional elements or make them yourself. We recommend choosing the first option, the roof is not the place where you can experiment. All leaks inevitably become the cause of big problems.

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Video - How to install a ceramic chimney

We strongly recommend that you - if you saw a brick and a trowel only on TV, do not immediately start laying the chimney. Lay out at least 10 rows of bricks on the ground, "fill your hand and eye", learn how to tie, expand and narrow the wall. And further. Do not read articles that begin with the words "making a brick chimney on your own is very simple." Such articles are written by those who have not done anything themselves and have not seen how others do it.

It is better to practice in advance in the laying of the chimney, without using the solution

After completing all the work, you need to check the "operability" of your design. For brick ovens with brick chimneys, this is not easy. At first, there will never be draft, the stove and chimney must “dry and heat up”. If it’s summer outside and you have time, open the windows in the bathhouse, the blower and furnace doors in the oven, and the valves in the chimney. In this position, the chimney should dry for approximately two weeks.

If you do not have time, then heat with firewood, they should only be completely dry. You need to heat it daily, but without too much enthusiasm, do not throw a lot of firewood. Take only a few dry logs for each fire. After the firewood burns out, do not close the firebox and the valve, let the masonry dry until the next day.

How to remove the pipe in the bath: external and internal design

Our sauna is associated with a light steam and a pleasant crackle of firewood in the stove, hot stones in the heater and the smell of a freshly brewed broom. But live fire is associated with smoke, and if the pipe is not made correctly, then carbon monoxide poisoning can be done in 20-30 minutes. The pipe in the bath is planned before the construction of the bath; it must be assembled with high quality and correctly. Only in this way the bath will be safe and will not harm its owners. How to remove the pipe in the bath with your own hands, what features and subtleties that you need to know we will tell our readers.

The pipe in the bath is removed in two ways: inside and outside the structure.

Design features of the chimney for the bath

Planning a chimney in a bath is always associated with the choice of design. It is necessary to understand all types, to know how to correctly calculate the size, display and install. Before drawing up a project, it is necessary to briefly study these aspects.

What pipes are used for a bath

The chimney in the bath can have two devices: external and internal. Each has its pros and cons:

External arrangement is less fire hazardous, do-it-yourself installation and fixing is also easier. The disadvantages are that the pipe goes outside and heat loss increases.
The internal arrangement is complex, but all the heat gets into the bath. The main disadvantage is a high degree of fire hazard.

Sandwich pipe is easy to install with your own hands.

Design flaws can be prevented by applying high-quality insulation. We advise you not to save on time and effort and to carry out an internal chimney, although it is more difficult to install, it will reduce the cost of heating the steam room of the structure. For a small bath in a summer cottage, it is easier to remove an external chimney. In any case, the choice is up to the user.

Materials for the chimney take different: red brick, ceramics or metal. They tolerate temperatures above +100 °C well and are durable.

It’s easier to buy a ready-made sandwich chimney. It is easy to mount and install, and the internal asbestos gasket makes the device safe.

The design of the external and internal chimney

The design of the chimney is selected depending on the features of the selected stove. The complete set of the pipe includes several nodes, each has its own functional features. For a bath with a brick stove, brick, metal, ceramics can be used, and for a metal stove, a ceramic or metal chimney can be used. You can use a brick, but laying out a pipe with your own hands will be difficult. We'll have to hire a bricklayer - a stove-maker.

The main components of the chimney (design listings start from top to bottom):

Head (probe) - prevents sparks from entering the roof and neighboring buildings, as well as from flooding during rain.
Flash Master.
PPU (Ceiling node where it passes through).
Chimney made of double sandwich or brick.
Single iron pipe.

When choosing a brick structure, you must be prepared for complex cleaning and maintenance. A massive foundation is needed under the stove, since a brick chimney weighs a lot, the entire load will fall on the stove.

A simpler assembly that does not require special knowledge is a ready-made construction made of sandwich pipes. It consists of a double structure between which asbestos is laid. More heat-saving and lightweight. They are made up of separate elements: an elbow, deflectors, tees, rain protection, adapters and a gate. Fasten with brackets that are mounted with clamps.

What to pay attention to when installing

It is necessary to remove the pipe in the bath, taking into account a number of its features (material, design). The installation is influenced by sanitary and environmental standards, the material from which the bath was built. Do not forget that traditionally it is a tree.

Compliance with some norms and rules will make the design reliable and safe:

Any must be insulated with environmentally friendly and non-combustible material: expanded clay, asbestos, stone wool.
It is necessary to insulate the place where the chimney passes only with foil material. It is often confused with materials covered with lavsan foil, and it is highly flammable and melts at temperatures above 300 °C.
The chimney is removed so that the structure does not touch any wooden elements: floor beams, roofs, walls. To isolate the joints, they are sheathed with metal sheets. The exit point can only be insulated with non-combustible mineral wool or expanded clay embankment.
Inside the ceilings, you need to mount a special iron box, into which the structure is inserted and covered with expanded clay. You don't need to make a box for a sandwich.
From above, in order to avoid contact with the roof around, a casing is made of metal sheets.
All joints and seams can be sealed with special iron foil tape or foil.

How to choose the size and shape of the chimney

Scheme of the output of the pipe in the bath.

When designing a chimney in a bath, you need to adhere to the standard shape and size. The best option is a cylindrical shape. A simple form is connected with the fact that any bend in the knee additionally organizes zones of accumulation of ash and soot, the structure will often have to be cleaned. And cleaning a structure with numerous bends is more difficult.

The main dimensions that need to be determined are the diameter and height of the structure. They must be taken from SNiP.

Bath pipe diameter

The power and choice of the stove are directly related to the choice of diameter and height of the chimney. Here are some values for a rectangular and square chimney in the form of a table:

Furnace power, kW	Chimney diameter, mm
Up to 3.5	140x140
3,5–5,2	140x200
5,2–7,2	140x270

For a round stove, the diameter of the chimney is taken equal to or greater than the outlet of the stove. In order to calculate the diameter, you need to know the formula that regulates that for 1 kW of stove power, take at least 8m2 of pipes. So, for a 20 kW stove, the chimney area will be at least 160 m2. In diameter, it is not less than 14 cm.

Sauna chimney height

The height is calculated depending on the type and height of the roof ridge. It is necessary to take into account neighboring buildings, especially if the bath is attached to the main house. According to SNiP, the height of the chimney of the bath must correspond to the indicators indicated in the table:

For a flat roof, the height of the chimney of the bath must be at least 1 m. For a high pipe (more than 1.5 m), special extensions must be installed, they will strengthen the structure.

It is important to take into account the moment of beveled and horizontal elements of the chimney. A length of more than 1 m is unacceptable. An acceptable size will prevent soot from accumulating on the walls of the bath pipe and will not interfere with traction.

Do-it-yourself chimney installation

Before work, you need to buy all the necessary materials and components. All work takes place in stages: preparing holes for the pipe outlet, installing a protective box, assembling the pipe.

Preparation of holes for pipe outlet

Do not install a pipe with too many bends.

Holes in a new bath under construction are best done at the stage of assembling floors and roofs. In an already assembled structure, you will have to do it from scratch. If laying inside the bath is chosen, then holes are cut out in the ceiling and roof, the outer one provides for one in the wall near the bath stove.

The places of the holes must be sheathed on both sides with sheets of metal 0.5 mm thick. They will protect the surface from fire. The holes are made with a square section of 450x450 mm. dimensions depend on the sandwich pipe adapter. For a brick chimney, the size of the hole must be equal to the specified width of the chimney masonry. For more information on how to properly make a hole in the ceiling of the bath, see the video:

Manufacturing and installation of a protective box

Prefabricated protective box for sandwich pipe.

You can make an adapter for a metal and sandwich pipe with your own hands: 2 metal sheets 50x50 cm in size are taken and an outlet for the pipe is cut out in the middle. A box is made from 4 sheets, which is connected by welding. The box is insulated with stone or mineral wool from basalt and covered with metal foil. A pipe will be inserted into it, it will protect the floors from heating.

Next, a metal protective apron is attached to the roof. You can buy it ready-made "Flash-Master". The box is put in place between the ceiling transitions and screwed with screws. For a brick pipe, it is not necessary to make a metal protective box. Next, the chimney is installed.

Installation of a chimney

The assembly of the pipe in the bath must be completed by installing an anti-rain fungus.

To fix the pipe, you need to drill places for fastening opposite the chimney outlet. Sandwich pipe is made in such a way that all parts are simply installed into each other.

First, the first link from the oven 50 cm long is mounted. It is fixed into the prepared holes with metal fasteners to the wall and the oven. Further, the second link is displayed in a metal box. If the diameter of the second link is less than the outlet of the first, then a special adapter is used.

Having installed the second link, the box is filled with expanded clay into the adapter. If the stove is not located strictly under the hole in the ceiling, then a knee is used. It is not necessary to use more than three knees in one pipe design, soot and soot will accumulate in the bath pipe.

A fungus is mounted on top of the pipe, you can do it yourself from a sheet of metal, an old tin can. It's easier to buy ready-made.

The outer pipe is assembled with one difference, first the elbow is mounted to the wall and only then the main structure. In the same way, an adapter box is placed in the wall, insulated and filled with expanded clay. From the box to the street goes the main pipe. On the outside of the bath, a tee is attached to the pipe, where a revision with a window is located. They will help to clean the building from soot. All parts of the pipe outside are attached to the wall in stages. On the facade of the bath, you can use only a double sandwich construction, only a single one above the roof. The wall under the pipe is insulated with metal or asbestos material.

Do not rush to assemble the pipe, it is better to carefully fix each link. How well the bath pipe will be removed depends on how fireproof the bath will be. The safety of not only the wooden walls and transitions of the bath is important, but also the people who will use the building. You should not save on insulation, it is better to perform it with high quality from expensive material. Only in this way will the steam be light and the bath safe.

The easiest and at the same time the cheapest way to make a sauna stove is to use a piece of ordinary steel pipe. Such a design will function quite normally in any room, regardless of its size. Moreover, thanks to the hermetic casing, the furnace made of a pipe will not emit carbon monoxide during operation, which means that it is absolutely safe for humans. Therefore, there is no need to build any additional fences.

How to weld a stove for a bath from a pipe? In fact, there is nothing complicated here - with the appropriate equipment and skills in working with a welding machine, the manufacturing procedure will take only a few hours.

Preparing a site for the oven

First you need to take care of the foundation. To make it, you need to follow these steps.

Table. Instruction

Step ##IllustrationDescription


Step 1		In the place where the furnace will be located, a hole 50 cm deep is dug. The length and width depend on the dimensions of the future structure (the article discusses the use of a pipe Ø 50 cm, which means that the dimensions of the foundation should be approximately 70x70 cm).
Step 2		The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble and carefully compacted. The thickness of the already compacted layer should be at least 30 cm.
Step 3		A thin layer of liquid cement mortar is poured over the crushed stone “pillow” (cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 4, water - as needed) and left for 24 hours to cool. This is the sole of the future base.
Step 4		Waterproofing is laid on top of the hardened cement - several layers of roofing material.
Step 5		Next, the pit is poured with concrete prepared from cement, sand and fine gravel in a ratio of 1: 2.5: 4 (+ water)
Step 6		The surface of the poured foundation is checked by level. If everything is in order with horizontality, you can proceed to the removal of a brick platform.
Step 7		A platform is built from red or fireclay bricks (the dimensions are the same - 70x70 cm). Bricks should be laid in one or two rows, and only on clay mortar. As a result, the platform should rise above the finished floor by about 15-20 cm.

It is also necessary to protect the walls of the room from strong heat. To do this, a protective screen is constructed from bricks laid "on edge" and linked with the same clay mortar.

The height of the screen should be 120 cm, the future oven will be located about 20 cm from it.

Making a vertical furnace from a steel pipe

The process will use a 1.5-meter pipe Ø 50 cm, the wall thickness should be at least 1 cm. The algorithm of actions is as follows.

Step 1. First, the pipe is cut into two parts - 90 cm and 60 cm. The smaller part will serve as a water tank (by the way, the diameter of this segment may be smaller), and a furnace with a heater will be installed in the larger one.

Step 2 A rectangular cutout for the blower is made from the bottom of the larger segment. The hole should be 50-60 mm high and 180-200 mm wide. The blower itself, by the way, will also serve as an ash pan.

Step 3 A round steel plate 12 mm thick and with a diameter corresponding to the inner diameter of the pipe used is welded above the blower hole. A hole is cut in the center of the circle for the grate. It’s easier to buy and install a ready-made “store” grate, but if you wish, you can do everything yourself - weld reinforcing bars on the hole in the form of a lattice, but so that the gaps between them correspond to their diameter.

Step 4 A niche is cut out with dimensions of 300x250 mm for the combustion chamber (at the same time, approximately 50 mm should remain to the bottom of the chamber). Then a pair of hinges is welded, a pre-cut door of the appropriate size is hung on them. A latch is attached to the door.

Note! If the firebox needs to be moved to an adjacent room, then a special rectangular apron can be welded around the door with an indent from it (the door) by 50-100 mm on each side.

Step 5 Further, a cutter is made above the combustion chamber - a rectangular steel sheet with cut corners. Through these cut corners, the sheet is welded to the body. The gaps remaining between the sides of the sheet and the walls of the pipe are enough for the passage of flue gases. This will contribute to the movement of smoke along the walls of the pipe, due to which they will warm up more intensively.

Step 6 Above, about 70-100 mm from the cutter, a grate is welded to the body, made in advance of reinforcing bars Ø 1.2-1.5 cm. This grate will serve as the bottom of the heater. The heater door is installed so that a person can easily open it from the steam room. The manufacturing technology here is the same as for the door to the furnace.

Step 7. From above, the body is welded with a steel sheet with a hole made in it (the diameter of the latter must correspond to the diameter of the prepared chimney pipe).

We weld the steel sheet in which the cover will be installed

Step 8. As noted above, a piece of the same pipe that was used for the body can serve as a water tank (if desired, the tank can be made of sheet steel). It is important that the bottom of this tank is exactly the same as the top of the heater. With the help of a welding machine, a pipe is attached to its bottom - it will pass through the center of the entire tank and protrude from above by about 350-400 mm.

It is also necessary to equip the tank with a cover made in the form of a semicircle. To do this, a piece of steel that will close the tank is cut into two parts. One of them is welded, and the other is attached to the first with the help of loops - this will be the semicircle cover.

Step 9 At the bottom of the tank crashes a tap to drain the water.

Note! It remains only to weld the gate to the chimney, about 30 cm from the water tank.

For this design, you can make a remote firebox. It is necessary to cut a sheet of steel, cut and weld it. The steps are shown in the photo.

Video - Making a furnace from a pipe

Video - Vertical oven from a pipe

Basic requirements for the installation of the furnace

For further installation work, a number of requirements must be observed.

The furnace is installed on a pre-prepared foundation, with a 20-centimeter indent from the wall.
In the place where the pipe will go outside, a thickening of about 120 mm is made.
All wooden elements are covered with insulating material (it can be, for example, asbestos or felt) with a layer of clay applied to it.
The section of the chimney between the ceiling and the roof is plastered and covered with lime mortar.
The height of the pipe section protruding above the roof must be at least 50 cm.
Shelves should be placed next to the wall where the stove is located. When installing a shelf, care must be taken that the person sitting there does not touch the ceiling with his head.

Creating a Horizontal Furnace

The horizontal design implies the presence of a mounted water tank and an outdoor heater. Such a stove is more compact, and due to the increased depth of the furnace compartment, it will allow you to quickly heat the room. During the manufacturing process, you need to perform the following steps.

Step 1. A piece 80 cm long is cut out of a steel pipe with a diameter of 50 cm. The edges are carefully aligned and cleaned.

We prepare the pipe

Step 2. A grate platform is being created. To do this, a rectangle measuring 80x40 cm is cut out of a steel sheet with a thickness of 1-1.2 cm. A hole is made inside the rectangle, after which reinforcement is welded to it (the rectangle). Alternatively, you can purchase a ready-made grate made at the factory.

Step 3. The grate is welded inside the body. The pipe itself at this time is located so that the seam on it is under the grate. The fact is that the metal burns out mainly in the places of welding, and such a simple technique will help to significantly reduce the thermal load on the seam.

Step 4 A facade (remote firebox) of a rectangular shape (height - 0.7 m, width - 0.6 m) with a rounded top is made from a steel sheet. A pair of rectangular cutouts is made in the facade - for the doors of the blower and the firebox.

Step 5 The back of the structure is also made of steel sheets, but the dimensions here are different - 0.9x0.7 m. By the way, the upper part of this element will also serve as a limiter for the heater.

Step 6 The back and front are welded to the body. A frontal limiter for the heater is welded in the center of the body, while it - the limiter - must exactly follow the contours of the body from below and the rear part from above.

Step 7 A rectangular hole 150x150 mm is cut out from the top of the case (in its rear part). On top of it, a furnace roof is installed, made of sheet steel, with a hole for the chimney. It is important that the hole is 12-15 cm closer to the facade - this will ensure not only cutting off the flame, but also complete combustion of the fuel (see the drawing diagram above).

Step 8 A chimney pipe is welded to the arch. By the way, the vault will also be the bottom of the heater. It is necessary to weld a reinforcement grid 20 cm high on the walls of the vault - this will increase the volume of the heater.

Step 9 The doors of the ashpit and firebox are attached. The furnace is cleaned with a grinding wheel in order to remove rust and scale residues, after which it is covered with a layer of heat-resistant polymer-based paint. The first heating is done outdoors to cure the paint.

Note! The chimney is brought out into the street in the same way as in the case of a vertical stove.

Step 10 A water tank is mounted on top of the back. To do this, a shelf is welded there, the dimensions of which correspond to the dimensions of the bottom of the tank. The heater is laid with stones, while one important rule is observed: it is necessary that their flat surfaces fit as tightly as possible to the iron walls in order to heat the latter more efficiently.

Video - Making a furnace from a pipe (horizontal version)

Summing up. A few words about IR radiation

Iron stoves have many advantages, but they all have one drawback - during operation, they form hard infrared radiation, which leads to uneven heating of the air in the room. But this problem can be eliminated by making brickwork around the heater. The brick should be placed about 10-15 cm from the stove, so that the air will circulate freely along the walls. In addition, the masonry also performs a protective function - an accidental touch to a heated brick will not lead to a burn, which cannot be said about hot metal.

Two or three holes remain in one of the lower rows so that cold air penetrates inside. Warm air will rise, driven by convection. You may also be interested in learning about the operation of a gas stove in a bath.

Installing a sandwich pipe in a bath

Sandwich chimneys are considered the best option for removing combustion products from stoves, especially in wooden baths. We offer you to get acquainted with the technology of installation of double-walled chimneys and the features of their designs.

Preparatory work
Mounting order
wall mount
Passage through the attic
Passage through the roof
The sandwich chimney is the easiest option for self-assembly of the combustion products removal system. Lightweight and compact structural elements are quickly assembled using auxiliary elements. Of course, when assembling a sandwich pipe for a bath, a number of points must be taken into account.

General requirements for a chimney in a bath

The following requirements affect the dimensions and design of the chimney in a sandwich pipe bath:

The optimal length of the pipe from the stove to the fungus on the roof is 5 m.
The pipe is mounted vertically, without ledges. Permissible deviation of the pipe from the vertical - 30 degrees, with a maximum deviation to the side - 1 meter.
If the size from the roof to the pipe head is more than 1.5 m, install a brace to fix the structure.
If the roof is covered with flammable materials, install a 5x5 mm spark arrestor mesh at the end of the pipe.
The pipe on a pitched roof should protrude 50 cm above the ridge. The pipe on a flat roof should be 1 m above the roof.
The horizontal part of the smoke duct - up to 1 m.
The joints of the pipe elements must remain visible; they are not allowed to be located inside the roof slabs.
It is forbidden to place cleanings, horizontal outlets in the attic. The pipe in the attic should be directed upwards.

How to choose a chimney sandwich for a bath

The sandwich chimney is made by connecting individual parts of the chimney 1 m long. Each section of the structure consists of three components - an inner and outer pipe with a heat-resistant layer. For the chimney, fasteners and auxiliary products are also needed. Double-wall chimneys are produced in many designs and differ in their parameters - diameters, type of insulator and its thickness, pipe material, etc. To avoid mistakes when choosing elements of a sandwich pipe, use the recommendations.

Determining the section of the chimney for a bath

The chimney must have the same section as the furnace outlet flange. If necessary, you can determine the cross section of the pipe for the furnace by calculation, using the requirements of SNIP:

For a 3.5 kW boiler, pipes with a cross section of 0.14x0.14 m are used.
For a boiler with a power of 3.5–5.2 kW - 0.14x0.2 m.
For a boiler with a power of 5.2-7 kW - 0.14x0.27 m.

Find out or calculate the thermal power of your furnace and determine the cross-sectional area of the chimney, which will ensure that the requirements of SNIP are met. Select a sandwich chimney that has a round shape according to the estimated cross-sectional area.

Selection of a pipe for a bath according to the material

The inner chimney pipe is made of stainless steel. If possible, choose a pipe with the thickest wall, it is more rigid. Do not buy a pipe with a wall of less than 1 mm. The outer pipe can be made of any metal, even galvanized steel. It is better that the outer pipe is also made of stainless steel - when heated, the material practically does not elongate, which cannot be said about a galvanized sheet.
Stainless steel pipes are only externally the same. When buying, you can determine the quality of products as follows:

Try to find out the composition of the pipe metal. Quality samples are made of austenitic steel, with the addition of molybdenum, chromium, nickel. These substances make it possible to resist corrosion and acidic substances.
Inspect pipe welds. The presence of burnt seams is not allowed.
Stainless steel pipes are expensive. You can reduce the cost of installing a sandwich pipe in a bath if you make a combined chimney: in a steam room with high humidity, high fire safety requirements and in order to give a representative look, install stainless elements, in other places - galvanized.
For a bath, buy sandwich pipes with heat-insulating material that can withstand temperatures over 800 degrees. Such characteristics are possessed by asbestos, mineral, expanded clay heaters.
The thickness of the insulator layer with the same material properties can be from 20 to 60 mm, so be sure to be interested in the composition and properties of the insulation before buying.

Connection of pipe elements for a bath

On the market, you can find samples that are joined together and fixed in various ways - flanged, bayonet, “cold bridge”, but for a bath it is recommended to choose between a “smoke” or “condensate” connection.
The difference between the connections is as follows:

The “smoke” connection ensures that no smoke escapes through the joint into the room. But, on the other hand, condensate flowing down the walls of the pipe can get through the cracks inside the sandwich and damage the insulation.
In the “condensate” connection, the inner pipe of the upper sandwich enters the socket of the lower pipe, so moisture does not get on the insulation. In this case, there is no guarantee that the smoke will not leak out.
The customer chooses the connection method himself. For rooms, the "smoke" method is usually chosen, because a small amount of condensate forms in the sandwich chimneys.
When buying, check the quality of the docking of the modules. A good connection will be provided by samples from one manufacturer.

Preparatory work before installing the pipe in the bath

Before installing a sandwich pipe in a bath, or rather, at the stage of building the foundation of the furnace and roof, check the location of the chimney axis. The pipe should not cross the rafters and beams of the attic and roof and pass at a distance of less than 25 cm from the wall. It is possible to carry out preliminary installation of the furnace and chimney in a minimum volume. The work is carried out when at least the subfloor is ready and the wooden elements of the roof are fixed.
Install the oven on the subfloor. Set the device to its standard position in a vertical plane, taking into account the height of the floor “pie” and the thickness of the floor covering. Drop a plumb line from above into the center of the furnace outlet flange and see the results. If the roof's load-bearing elements do not intersect with the plumb line, cut off the excess elements to allow the pipe to be installed. Postpone the main work until the end of the construction work on the floor.

Installation instructions for the chimney in the bath

The procedure for installing a sandwich pipe for a stove in a bath looks like this:

Install the ceiling-through unit (PPU) at the point where the pipe passes through the ceiling.
Install the first pipe element, which must be single-walled, on the furnace exhaust flange. The sandwich pipe is mounted starting from the second level.
Install alternately double-walled pipes and other elements of the chimney (tees, elbows - if required by the pipe design), lead them through the ceiling, fasten them to each other and to the walls.
Insulate the passage of the pipe to the attic.
A revision with a stand for inspecting the internal cavity of the pipe and cleaning it from soot and other similar elements should be mounted up to the attic.
Continue the installation of the chimney in the attic and bring the pipe to the roof. It is allowed to install only sandwich pipes in the attic, it is forbidden to install additional elements.
Perform thermal insulation at the place where the pipe passes through the roof.
Secure the outer part of the pipe with braces (if it protrudes high above the roof). Install a spark arrester and fungus on top of the finished product.

Fixing a sandwich pipe in the bath to the wall

The pipe is narrowed on one side, so for assembly it is enough to install one pipe into the other. To seal gaps and joints, a chimney sealant is used that can withstand temperatures of 1000 degrees. The absence of gaps in the joints increases traction.
When connecting pipes, adhere to the following rules:

For inner tubes, the sealant is applied to the outside of the upper inner tube.
On the outer pipes - on the outer surface of the upper pipe.
At the joints of a single-wall pipe with a sandwich chimney or with other modules - outside, around the circumference.
Sandwich pipes are interconnected with clamps on one side.
Sandwich pipes are connected to tees and adapters with clamps on both sides.
Pipes are attached to the wall with brackets every 2 m.
The tees are fixed to the supporting structures with brackets.

The passage of the chimney in the bath through the attic floor

Installation of a sandwich pipe in a bath should be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNIP regarding the thermal insulation of the chimney when passing through wooden floors. The temperature in the firebox, especially if firewood is used, reaches 800-1000 degrees. It easily heats the chimney (and boards in the ceiling) to a high temperature, which is critical for wood.
To ensure the safe passage of the pipe through the attic floor, a ceiling-pass assembly (PPU) is used. The product is made in the form of a box measuring 300 x 300 mm. There is a hole in the horizontal wall through which the sandwich pipe passes. PPU made of stainless steel or galvanized iron can be found on the market in finished form. The device is mounted in the ceiling opening before the pipe is assembled.
Thermal insulation of the pipe in this place is performed in the following order:

Install the PPU in the opening in the ceiling together with the heat insulator and secure.
Install the sandwich pipe on the lower elements so that the connection is above the attic floor.
Check that there is a gap of at least 130 mm between the pipe and the ceiling.
This gap can be left unfilled, but it is better to fill the internal space between the pipe and the PPU walls with mineral wool.
Close the joints at the bottom and top with stainless steel sheets. Also lay a heat insulator between the sheets and the ceiling.

The passage of the chimney in the bath through the roof

Consider the features of the passage of a sandwich pipe through the roof:

Make sure that the distance from the pipe to the ceiling wall is at least 130 mm.
Cut out the roof sheet from the steel sheet. It is a sheet with an inner hole equal to the diameter of the pipe and larger than the opening in the ceiling.
Put the roof sheet on the pipe.
Thread one end of the pipe into the roof opening from the attic side, install the other end into the lower pipe.
From the side of the roof, install a lead base (corner roof groove) on the pipe, lower it onto the roof. Tap on the base with a hammer and fit to the surface of the crash.
From the side of the attic, fill the gaps between the pipe and the ceiling with basalt cardboard and basalt wool.
Raise the under-roof sheet all the way up and secure it with wood screws.
To ensure the joint is sealed, coat the joint with a rubber-based bituminous roofing sealant.

Video instruction for installing a sandwich pipe in a bath with your own hands:

Installation of a sandwich chimney is a laborious job that requires concentration and attention from the performer. The main thing is to choose high-quality materials that will ensure the reliability and safety of heating the bath. Author: TutKnow.ru editors

The chimney is the soul of the bath. The chimney can be safely called the "soul and heart of the bath" and this will not be an exaggeration. The quality of your future rest in the bath will largely depend on how competently and efficiently you equip it.

A well and smoothly functioning chimney is, firstly, an excellent park, and secondly, a guarantee of fire safety. The correct flue for 99 percent excludes a possibility of a smoke and pollution of the room.

Features of the construction of the chimney

Chimney types

Currently, several types of chimneys are in operation, which, in fact, are divided into two categories: root and mounted. Mounted chimneys are called chimneys, which are mounted directly on the furnace, indigenous - on the side of it. The choice of the chimney pipe will largely depend on what type of stove you are going to use when heating the bath. There is an option in which one chimney serves several stoves, but in this case the entire system must be equipped in such a way that the connecting links from the stoves to the chimney are cut at different heights at intervals of at least one meter from each other. In this case, the diameter of the chimney must correspond to the total power of all furnaces. The diameter is calculated in such a way that the smoke emitted by the operating furnace is fully ensured.

The height of the chimney mainly depends on the height of the building itself. We recommend that you immediately make sure that the gap between the roof ridge and the chimney pipe horizontally is at least one and a half meters (or more). If this distance is less, care must be taken to ensure that the level of the chimney is 50 centimeters higher than the level of the ridge. If the chimney is further from the ridge, they must be aligned vertically.

The internal chimney has a number of undeniable advantages and therefore is the most popular and sought-after option for arranging a Russian bath.

Advantages of an internal chimney

Convenience during work (work is carried out in an already rebuilt building).
Simplicity and convenience in service.
Sufficiently powerful traction, which is provided, in many respects, due to the verticality of the pipe.

Ideally, the chimney pipe should be vertically oriented. However, it often happens that for some reason (or a number of reasons) it is impossible to make the structure completely vertical. In this case, it is recommended to create a chimney project in such a way that the length of each of its non-vertical (diagonal) sections does not exceed one meter. Without this, it will be very difficult for you to get normal draft and prevent soot from depositing on the surfaces of the chimney - after all, hot air will rise vertically. Ideally, the use of horizontal pipe sections should be completely abandoned.

What and how to make a chimney?

Most often, Russian baths are equipped with stoves-heaters. The main options for a chimney for such a furnace are metal pipes. During the operation of such pipes, sooner or later, we are faced with their significant drawback - condensate that settles on the surfaces during cooling and flows down. As a result, the speed of kindling the furnace is reduced, in addition, a rather unpleasant odor is formed. To avoid the above situation, place the pipe in a fireproof case of thermal insulation or overlay it with bricks. The second option can be considered more preferable due to the simplicity of the work process itself, for which, by the way, you can use an inexpensive brick.

There should be no extra holes in the walls of the chimney, any hole is a guaranteed penetration of cold air from outside, cooling the smoke. It is not recommended to use large diameter pipes - this can also lead to cooling of the smoke and a decrease in its speed, the consequence of which is the formation of condensate. The thickness of the brick walls of the chimney must be at least 120 millimeters when inside the bath and at least 38 centimeters if it is located in the outer wall of the building.

It is desirable to make the inner surface of the chimney as smooth as possible. The more scratches and roughness, the worse the draft will be and the more soot can accumulate inside the chimney. Therefore, it is initially worth whitewashing the pipe and grouting it for the timely identification and elimination of possible defects.

Another popular option for arranging a chimney in a bath is a sandwich pipe. For its operation, you do not need brickwork or a case (case) made of thermal insulation, which will greatly facilitate the installation of the structure.

Fire safety

Fire safety is paramount! Arranging a chimney in the bath, do not forget about fire safety measures. It is important that there are as few docking points as possible in the pipe, and in areas where they pass through the roof and ceiling, they should not be categorically. Branch pipes should be installed in the passages between the ceilings, and a layer of non-combustible materials should be created between the chimney pipe and the ceiling (make a pipe cut). The thickness of such cutting should exceed the thickness of the ceiling. A similar layer (from thermal insulation) must also be created at the place where the pipe passes through the roof. The chimney must be located at a distance of at least 250 millimeters from unprotected rafters, battens and, in general, from combustible roofing materials. Any non-combustible layer must have a thickness of at least 120 millimeters.

From above, the chimney must be equipped with special protective equipment, in particular, a protective cap (mushroom) and a spark arrester, as well as a roof cut, which provides sealing when the pipe passes through the roof.

water tank

An important stage in the process of installing a chimney is installation of a heating water tank. There are various mounting options. For example, a tank can be attached to the wall of a pipe, in another embodiment, the pipe will pass directly through it (in this embodiment, water heating will be more efficient). The main criterion when choosing a tank is the size of your stove (direct proportionality). The best option is a stainless steel tank. When choosing a tank, it is necessary to take into account the size and diameter of the chimney pipes to ensure a tight connection between the components (good draft and optimal water temperature).

Let the bath bring you health, pleasure and good mood!

Video

With this material they read the same:

Rules for installing a brick chimney for a sauna stove. Do-it-yourself chimney for a bath from a pipe

Chimney device for a sauna stove

Chimney outlet diagrams

Chimney calculation

Types of chimneys

from brick

metal

Other

Which is better to choose?

Chimney making

from brick

Materials and tools

Step-by-step instruction

metal

Materials and tools

Step-by-step instruction

Cleaning and care

Conclusion

Types of chimneys

Chimney installation rules

How to clean the chimney in the bath?

Conclusion

The choice of the type of system and settlement and design activities

Installation of a chimney in a bath: the main stages

Features of system operation

How to calculate the diameter of the chimney

Masonry brick chimneys

How to install a chimney?

How to install a sandwich chimney

Video - Chimney from a sandwich pipe

Video - Installation of a chimney

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Video - How to install a ceramic chimney

How to remove the pipe in the bath: external and internal design

Design features of the chimney for the bath

What pipes are used for a bath

The design of the external and internal chimney

What to pay attention to when installing

How to choose the size and shape of the chimney

Bath pipe diameter

Sauna chimney height

Do-it-yourself chimney installation

Preparation of holes for pipe outlet

Manufacturing and installation of a protective box

Installation of a chimney

Preparing a site for the oven

Making a vertical furnace from a steel pipe

Video - Making a furnace from a pipe

Video - Vertical oven from a pipe

Basic requirements for the installation of the furnace

Creating a Horizontal Furnace

Video - Making a furnace from a pipe (horizontal version)

Summing up. A few words about IR radiation

Installing a sandwich pipe in a bath

General requirements for a chimney in a bath

How to choose a chimney sandwich for a bath

Determining the section of the chimney for a bath

Selection of a pipe for a bath according to the material

Connection of pipe elements for a bath

Preparatory work before installing the pipe in the bath

Installation instructions for the chimney in the bath

Fixing a sandwich pipe in the bath to the wall

The passage of the chimney in the bath through the attic floor

The passage of the chimney in the bath through the roof

Features of the construction of the chimney

Chimney types

Advantages of an internal chimney

What and how to make a chimney?

Fire safety

water tank

Video

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