Wiring in copper pipes in a wooden house. Which wire is best for wiring in a wooden house - recommendations for choosing and advice

But the resinous array of dried wood - dangerous object for the appearance of an accidental spark: can turn into a tragedy with technological errors or negligence during installation.

Therefore, for the installation of electricians in a wooden house in a hidden way, you can only take on having basic technical training and having thoroughly studied the rather tough current regulatory documents:

GOST R 50572.1-93;
SNiP 3/01/01-85;
SNiP III-4-80;
SNiP 2.08.01(6.17).
"Rules for the installation of electrical installations" (PUE).

Wouldn't it be better to entrust this crucial stage of construction professionals?

Why is hidden wiring in a wooden house so attractive?

Yes, of course aesthetics of walls and ceilings:

there are no wiring elements that violate the design of the room;
sockets and switches recessed into the wall do not cause inconvenience when arranging furniture;
the surface of the wall is easier to use for wallpapering;
properly executed wiring increases the degree of fire safety of the building;
ease of replacing the cable in the pipe;
less risk of mechanical damage to the wiring;
protruding electrical fittings do not collect dust and do not become a support for the web.

What makes hidden wiring an object of increased danger

Inaccessibility for constant revision of the state of insulation and replacement of areas subjected to aging and destruction (microdamages can cause a short circuit);
complications in the work on supplementing the electrical circuit with new points after the expiration of time;
the technical complexity of installation, effective only during the construction of the house;
the need to create false structures that can hide insulating pipes;
the high cost of work, materials;
the cost of a special tool.

What are the features of installing hidden wiring in a wooden house?

You must be prepared for the fact that according to the wiring diagram you will pull not only wires and cables, but also meters of steel or copper pipes - a prerequisite for insulation. In a wooden house, even a centimeter of wire should not come into contact with wood. Pulling a cable or wire through a tube is a troublesome task that requires patience.
To introduce insulating pipes into the body of the wall, you will have to ditch, drill, cut down a place for wiring. This work is dusty, dirty, laborious.
Vertical channels are drilled during the laying of the crowns of the log house, horizontal (with a special drill) - after the completion of the walls.
A conductor is laid in the holes - a wire with which the cable will be pulled.
All places for installing wiring elements and transitions from one room to another must be well insulated with metal boxes, sleeves, "glasses", linings, asbestos wrapping or insulation with alabaster plaster.
The number of main channels becomes essential: for a large number, a corrugated pipe of a rather large diameter will be required as insulation, which is difficult to hide in a log wall.
The importance of the residual current device (RCD) is increasing, several such devices can be installed with hidden wiring: to turn off the external circuit, the internal circuit and the circuit with the highest power load.

Rules for performing internal wiring in a wooden house

Electrical wiring is carried out only on the basis of a scheme agreed with specialists, with a minimum number of turns and bends.
The electric main is laid exclusively in non-combustible materials.
During installation, priority is given to fire safety tasks, not so important - to aesthetic wishes.
It is advisable to lay channels in the structural recesses of door and window openings, under skirting boards, and false ceiling lining.
Corrugated pipes used as channel insulation are protected from all sides with asbestos gaskets during installation. For the same purposes, taking into account the estimated power of the wiring, alabaster or cement plaster, concreting is used.
Galvanized insulating pipes and boxes are connected by threading, welding. Sharp edges are protected by plastic caps. Copper protective elements in the connection are flared.
The wall thickness of the pipe is selected taking into account the cross-section of the conductors of the wire (example: 2.8 mm - for an aluminum conductor of 10 mm2, or a copper conductor of 4 mm2).
The cable (together with the insulating layer) inside the insulating pipe must occupy up to 40% of the internal volume.
The insulation resistance is measured twice: before and after pulling through the pipe.
Distribution boxes must remain freely accessible.
For concealed wiring, wires and cables with a triple insulating coating and marking "ng" are used.

Wiring in the ceiling of a wooden house

The advantages of wooden floors include:

high bearing capacity;
resistance to vibration;
preservation of the geometry of the structure;
reducing the overall weight of the structure;
erection speed;
versatility of use;
suitability for floor screeding.

Flaw there will be one, and it will be revealed during the fire:

wooden floors quickly pick up an open fire;
are prone to collapse.

How to be?

Cable protection with pipes.

Therefore, there are no concessions for electrical wiring along floors: only the placement of cables in pipes. By the way, electrical wiring on floors is the most convenient way to install hidden wiring. Gates for pipes to switches and sockets, in this case, descend from the main cables.

Metal tray for complex floor routing.

True, if the change in the direction of the wires is very frequent and at different angles, then it is more rational to use blind copper trays with lids instead of pipes. They can lay out several wires at once and in any direction. They perfectly isolate the wiring from the wood of the floors, and are attached to each other by riveting. Such trays, in order to reduce the cost of work, are also made of galvanized steel.

The process of laying trays is complicated by the need to take into account and bypass the structural elements of the house or cut them with subsequent reinforcement. In this case, you can not do without the skills of performing tin work.

Mandatory grounding of each tray separately will be required. At the turn, the trays can form an angle that is dangerous for the integrity of the cable, therefore, in this place, corrugated insulation is put on it.

Tray insulation with hidden wiring can also be used from the inside of the ceiling, subsequently closing the entire false ceiling structure with drywall or tongue-and-groove board treated with fire retardants.

Risk is not always a noble cause.

The most primitive installation method is electrical wiring on ceilings in layers of alabaster or cement plaster, when one layer is laid down, and after laying the wires, 2-3 cm of a new layer are thrown. This method is very risky for fire safety (due to the likelihood of cracking) and is rarely used.

The type of cable for a wooden house will differ from that used in urban development.
The most suitable cable is NYM, it has triple insulation and a sheath made of non-combustible material (polyvinyl chloride).
The greatest reliability in protecting the electrical network from emergency failures is possessed by difautomatic devices that combine 2 protective devices - a circuit breaker and an RCD (residual shutdown device).
It is worth remembering: grounding each junction box and each pipe will not be superfluous.
The connection of pipes must be reliable: use welding or soldering.
When choosing pipes, give preference to pipes made of copper: they bend better and easily take the shape of a prepared gutter.
To protect the cable from damage when pulling it is necessary to use end sleeves made of plastic.
Settlement of the house should be taken into account to prevent pinching of the highway.
When lining the walls with clapboard or wooden wallpaper, you can do without drilling the walls, passing the main wiring pipes through the slotted grooves.
You can combine hidden wiring with open: in places where wires are connected to sockets or switches.

A wooden house pleases its inhabitants with lightness and indescribable comfort. But wood, for all its merits, is a combustible material that requires increased attention from the point of view of fire safety. But since the need to equip a house with electricity is not discussed today, before starting work, you need to carefully read the rules for installing electrical equipment (PUE) and the provisions of GOSTs. There are no particular difficulties in observing these rules, but you need to know about them.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

Codes of rules for PUE and SNiP are developed by security experts. This is not a whim of an armchair official, but a list of necessary norms, the observance of which brings the level of "carelessness" as close as possible to the desired one. It can be said that life itself writes these dry chapters, behind which human tragedies are sometimes hidden.

The main cause of fires in wooden buildings is a short circuit in the electrical wiring.

Fire statistics unfortunately leave no doubt that timber construction is always at the forefront of fire risk. However, if you remember that for hundreds (or maybe thousands) of years our ancestors lived in wooden log cabins, there is hope that everything is possible, you just need to correctly deal with the wiring. After all, it is in the vast majority of cases that it causes a fire.

The main requirements contained in the PUE and GOSTs are as follows:

The calculation of the wiring should be made with a margin of up to 30%. This applies primarily to the selection of the cross-sectional area of the wires, since the degree of heating of the insulation and the likelihood of a short circuit during operation depend on this. In order to cover the whole picture of electrification as a whole, it is necessary to prepare a working draft with a detailed diagram and specification of electrical wiring, and upon completion of work, get certified and receive a wiring passport.
The quality of the connections should not allow the slightest possibility of electric shock to the inhabitants of the house.
Heating and ignition of cables is unacceptable, as this will most likely lead to arson of the entire house. The possibility of short circuits must be completely excluded.

The PUE welcomes the installation of lighting in wooden houses using 12-volt lamps and LED equipment, which is considered the safest today. For example, in mines and mines, especially those where methane gas accumulates and an explosion can occur from a single spark, all equipment is powered by a current of 12 volts. The same is done in cars.

A significant obstacle that makes it difficult to independently carry out work on installing wiring in a wooden house is the lack of a single document regulating the installation. The main regulations are dispersed in the regulatory documents of GOST and SNiP and are not systematized. Therefore, when drafting a project, it is better to contact a specialized organization that has a license for this kind of activity.

Preparation of a power supply project

Project documentation should include all the details of future wiring. It displays the location of lighting fixtures, sockets, mounting boxes, switchboard. The specification describes in detail the brands of conductors used for wiring, their total number and ratings. All electrical devices involved in the power supply scheme, such as an electric meter, RAM, automatic machines and others, are calculated in advance for compliance with the loads that are expected during operation.

A power supply project usually includes a wiring diagram indicating the markings of the cables used, the type of devices installed and the estimated load on each of them

The presence of a project is a sign of a civilized and responsible approach to business.

You can, of course, separate the cables without it, but:

practice shows that wiring without a preliminary project, as a rule, costs 10-15% more. At the same time, errors are possible, the correction of which also costs money;
in the event of a fire, the insurance company will require a certified home electrification plan. In its absence, the coverage of damages will be postponed for an indefinite period (until the circumstances are clarified). Well, if only one house burns down. In densely populated areas, a fire can spread to neighboring areas. The culprit will be the owner of the wooden structure from where the fire began to spread. The only way to prove your innocence is to present a certified plan for the electrification of the premises;
the presence of a plan significantly reduces the cost of preventive and repair work on electrical wiring during further operation, and also helps to quickly find and eliminate the source of damage to the power supply.

A full-fledged project consists not only of drawings, but also of a detailed description of all elements and equipment. It usually includes:

A graphic representation of all levels of the living space, on which, using the accepted symbols, the locations of the cable routes, consumers and electrical equipment are reflected.
Single-line electrical supply schemes.
Detailed calculations of ground loops.
Cross-sectional area of conductors.
List of switching devices.
The maximum current and voltage of the meter.
Calculations of the power of electrical receiving devices.

In addition, the project must provide for outdoor lighting of the site and the connection of courtyard buildings - a bathhouse, a garage, utility rooms.

The electrical wiring project of a private house must contain a calculation and diagram of the outdoor lighting device for the adjacent territory

Project documentation is developed in several stages:

Formulation of the problem. Power supply is planned in accordance with the terms of reference and conditions. The customer expresses his vision to the contractor orally or with the help of a schematic image. As one of the options, a design project can serve as an order form.
Development and approval of the project. If necessary, the project is defended and coordinated with representatives of inspection organizations. The parameters of electrification and their compliance with regulatory documentation are being specified.
Project implementation support. Sometimes it is also called supervised installation, during which the designer exercises direct control over the execution of work.

Calculation of the cable section

The calculation of conductors consists in determining two parameters:

In conditions of increased requirements for fire safety, the rules require the use of three-core wires without fail. This measure is dictated by the need for protective grounding of the entire power supply system.

In private houses, wiring should be carried out with a three-core cable: one core is a phase wire, the second is zero, the third is grounding

Table: selection of cable section depending on the current strength

Section of cable laid openly	Single-phase switching, 220 V		Three-phase switching, 380 V		Cross section of the cable laid in the pipe
Section of cable laid openly	continuous current when heating the cable up to 60 o C	power, kWt	continuous current when heating the cable up to 60 o C	power, kWt	Cross section of the cable laid in the pipe
0,5	10	2,2
0,75	13	2,8
1	15	3,3	12	8	1,5
1,5	20	4,4	18	12	2,5
2,5	30	6,6	27	18	4
4	40	8,8	35	23	6
6	50	11	45	30	10
10	75	16,5	65	43	16

Calculation of electrical installation devices

Electrical installation devices - sockets, switches and junction boxes are selected based on the technological conditions of their operation.

Selection of input cable and circuit breaker at the input

Of great importance in ensuring the safety of electrical wiring is the correct input of electricians inside the house. When choosing a cable and a circuit breaker, it should be borne in mind that in the future the load on it will only increase - the number of household appliances and units that are used at home increases over time.

The cross section of the input cable must be calculated for the future: over time, the number of electrical appliances used and their total power consumption will only increase

The task of an electrician is to choose a cable that will allow the use of electrical appliances without the risk of overvoltage of the lead-in conductor. The optimal placement of the introductory circuit breaker (AB) is considered to be its location in front of the meter. Its task is to turn off the internal network in case of excessive current consumption, for example, in case of a short circuit. But at the same time, it should not turn off at the maximum allowable load. In order to calculate the rating of the input AB independently, use the formula I nom \u003d P / U x cos (f), where I nom is the rated current, P is the total power of all devices, cos (f) is the power factor, which for most electrical appliances can be consider equal to one. 10% is added to the obtained value of the rated current and a circuit breaker is selected relative to it. Most often, in a private house, AB with a rating of 25 A is enough.

The introductory circuit breaker must withstand the maximum load from all switched on electrical appliances, but open the network when too high currents appear, for example, from a short circuit

Three-phase power supply of a private house

The vast majority of wooden houses use single-phase power. But if it is planned to use high-powered units - for example, powerful electric welding or woodworking machines - a three-phase current supply is necessary. In this case, to calculate the installation devices, you must contact a specialist. Calculations are made according to more complex formulas and in relation to a specific situation.

Do-it-yourself wiring installation in a wooden house

If there is an agreed project, executed in accordance with all legislative norms, you can carry out the installation of electrical wiring yourself. To do this, stock up on the necessary tools and materials, as well as familiarize yourself with the safety rules. Consider the main stages of electrification of the house.

Switchboard installation

The switchboard is the main point of power management. It is a cabinet, inside of which there are devices for monitoring and recording the consumed current. It can be metal or made of dielectric plastic.

The switchboard contains control and monitoring devices for the electrical network: meters, circuit breakers, residual current devices, etc.

The shield is mounted in a convenient place for use, at a height of 1.5 to 1.7 m from the floor surface. Most often, it is located near the front door in such a way that when leaving you can turn off the electricity, and when you return, turn it on. An introductory cable is connected from the power lines to the shield, then the electricity is distributed throughout the house. Inside the shield is installed:

electricity consumption meter;
circuit breakers on a DIN rail;
RCD (residual current device);
tires for grounding and zero circuit output.

An introductory circuit breaker can also be placed here, but it is also practiced to locate it outside the house at the point where the overhead line is connected to the home network. This option is not without meaning, since the risk of excessive load on the input cable is significantly reduced.

The switchboard is installed first. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of automation, using proven and reliable brands of devices from well-known manufacturers.

Video: switchboard overview for a private house

Entering the cable into the room

There are two options for entering the cable from the power line into the house.

Air method, which uses a self-supporting insulated conductor.
Underground method, when the cable is brought into the room from underground.

The first option is more common due to speed and economy. The second is more expensive, but has a number of advantages, such as a long service life and independence from atmospheric disasters.

The underground cable entry method is more laborious, but more reliable and durable.

In any case, the rules prescribe to lead the cable into a wooden house through a metal thick-walled (from 2.5 to 3.3 mm) pipe. Its inside must be painted or galvanized, and the installation is carried out at an angle of 3–5 o to the horizontal plane so that the resulting condensate can freely flow out (GOST R 50571.15–97 (IEC 364 5 52 93): clause 522.3.2).

The cable is led into a wooden house through a metal sleeve, which is placed at an angle to organize the drainage of condensate

The installation of a metal sleeve and cable entry is always carried out from the outside of the wall. The installer must be suitably qualified and authorized. Most often, this work is performed by employees of the energy supply organization.

Video: cable entry into the house and connection to the shield

Installation of switches and sockets

In wooden buildings there are certain nuances in the installation of switches and sockets.

If hidden wiring is installed, the sockets, in accordance with the PUE, should only be metal. Despite the fact that the contact pair of modern switches is securely hidden inside a plastic (or ceramic) base, a microspark occurs with each use of the device. The same thing happens in the outlet when the plug is plugged into it. In ordinary stone walls, this is not dangerous. But in dry wood, in which wood dust can also accumulate, such a spark can lead to the most unforeseen consequences.
In wooden houses, hidden wiring can be done, but all electrical appliances must be installed in metal sockets
For outdoor wiring, when the cables fit the sockets and switches along the wall surface, dielectric plates are used to separate the device from the wood. You should not neglect this, it is better to think in advance about how to make such a lining aesthetic. Retail chains offer a wide variety of protective pads for every taste and color from plastic to metal. According to the rules, the size of the site should cover the wall by 10 cm on each side (counted from the basement).
For safety reasons, when wiring outdoors, electrical appliances are placed on dielectric plates.

Otherwise, the installation of sockets and switches is no different from installation in a stone building.

First, the wall is marked. It is best to use a building level or a laser level.
Next, socket boxes or protective pads are installed.
The base of the device is mounted on them.
After connecting to the wires, the outer casing is attached.

All of the above applies to junction boxes as well. It is recommended to design wiring in such a way as to minimize their number.

Wire connection

Based on the same prerequisites for increased fire hazard, it is recommended to connect conductors in wooden buildings using factory terminal blocks. Twisting is allowed only in the case of additional soldering of current-carrying wires and using plastic caps.

Wire connections must be made using special terminal blocks, twists can only be used as a last resort

Grounding and installation of RCD

A residual current device (RCD) is designed to protect a person (and pets) from electric shock in case of a possible leak on damaged insulation or the metal case of household appliances.

In the electrical wiring diagram in a private house, it is necessary to provide for the presence of an RCD device that protects against electric shock in case of accidental leaks

The device is able to detect minimal leakage and react to it by opening the circuit. The level of sensitivity depends on the brand of the device. The choice is made according to the main parameter - the leakage current, which is expressed in milliamps. If the RCD is included in the whole house protection circuit, a leakage current value of 30 mA is sufficient. If the device is intended to protect individual premises, for example, a bathroom or a bathroom, a higher sensitivity of 10 mA is selected. The RCD is installed in the switchboard. The connection diagram provides for the location of the RCD in front of the circuit breakers.

The residual current device for the common circuit of the house is selected for a leakage current of 30 mA

Video: connecting a circuit breaker and RCD

The same tasks are assigned to the grounding of all electrical installations inside the house. Separately, we can say about the grounding device. In order for the stray current removal system to work properly, you need to follow the recommendations for self-arrangement of the ground strip.

The ground loop consists of three metal plates fixed on reinforcing pins.

To do this, you will need metal fittings of three meters in length and three meter pieces of corners.

Do not forget about the seasonal expansion and contraction of the metal under the influence of changing air temperature.

To prevent the ground bus from breaking, a “compensation hump” is made in it, which is designed to absorb thermal changes.

Methods for open wiring

In practice, three types of external wiring are used in wooden houses:

Corrugated wiring. Cables run inside a plastic or metal corrugated sleeve. The advantage of this wiring is the low cost of materials and the speed of installation. The corrugation is attached to the ceilings and walls with the help of special clips. The disadvantage is the ability of corrugated sleeves to accumulate dust, which is difficult to remove from them. In addition, over time, the wiring can sag, and it needs to be tightened.
Laying cables in corrugated hoses is very simple and convenient
Wiring in cable channels. One of the most popular types of wiring today. This is due to the fact that recently manufacturers have begun to produce a large assortment of connecting fittings, with which you can wire wires in any configuration without compromising the appearance. The main advantage of this type of wiring is affordability, speed of installation and a high level of maintainability. In this way, cable channels compare favorably with corrugations, which, in the event of repair of wiring, will have to be completely replaced. A big plus of wiring in cable channels is the availability of cables and the possibility of updating them if necessary. The only thing to keep in mind when installing cable channels is house shrinkage. Newly built wooden houses shrink significantly (up to 5% per year). And this means that the wiring lines can be deformed.
Wiring in the cable channel allows you to have access to cables at any time
Retro wiring. Quite a popular trend in interior design. It consists in the fact that the wires are fixed on the walls with the help of ceramic insulators in an open way. The cable is twisted in the manner of a twisted pair and in this form is pulled to lamps or sockets. The solution is not new, this is how wires were laid in residential premises 60-70 years ago, but at the same time it perfectly complies with safety standards - the cable does not touch the wall, remaining at a distance of 10 mm from the surface.
Retro wiring looks very aesthetically pleasing and meets electrical safety standards as much as possible

The choice entirely depends on the aesthetic inclinations of the inhabitants of the house. On sale there are all the necessary materials to realize your preferences in terms of design solutions.

Video: outdoor wiring in a cable channel in a wooden house

Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house

If, for some reason, the customer is not satisfied with the external location of the wiring in the house, the cables are bred in a hidden way. In a wooden structure, this is a rather time-consuming and painstaking procedure. Each wire, regardless of its thickness, must be packed in a metal tube. Sockets and junction boxes must also be made of metal. Pipes are supposed to be protected from corrosion. To do this, they must be painted from the inside with moisture-resistant enamels, and to drain condensate, drill small holes at certain intervals. For the same purpose, it is necessary to place the pipe at an angle so that drops of moisture can flow out. To avoid damage to the insulation, the ends of the pipes are cleaned from sharp burrs and are additionally equipped with plastic tips.

For a hidden wiring device in a wooden house, cables inside the walls are laid in metal pipes and led out into niches closed by metal sockets

The best material for such wiring is copper pipe. Its cost is quite high, but due to the plasticity of the metal, bends can be made without special equipment. A steel pipe is much cheaper, and threaded adapters and spurs are provided to give it the necessary shape.
Steel pipes are cheaper than copper pipes, and there are special fittings for bending them.
If the wiring is installed at the construction stage, hiding it in the walls is simplified. Especially if it is a frame structure. In houses made of logs or timber, all wiring channels are cut out in the walls after they are erected.
For laying cables in wooden walls, strobes can be cut
Another way, allowed by the PUE standards for wooden buildings, is to locate the wiring inside the plaster applied over the wood. This method was practiced in old buildings - shingles (plywood reinforcement) were stuffed onto the logs and a layer of cement plaster was thrown. According to the rules, the plaster layer in this case should be from 10 mm on all sides. The modern analogue of this technology is the sheathing of a wooden wall with drywall, which in essence is dry plaster. With a standard drywall sheet thickness of 12.5 mm, the wall must be covered in two layers.
If you put a drywall sheet on top of a wooden wall or ceiling, hidden wiring can be done under it.

A big disadvantage of hidden wiring in a wooden structure is the inaccessibility of cables. If any problems occur, it will be very difficult to replace the old cable with a new one. However, this type of wiring has its fans. Especially among designers who are primarily concerned with the aesthetic solution of the home.

Video: hidden wiring in a wooden frame

Wiring test

After completing the installation, the customer needs to invite employees of the electrical laboratory. The purpose of the test is to measure the resistance of the system as a whole, ground resistance and test all automation: RCDs, circuit breakers, current flow meter. If all parameters correspond to the norm, the customer receives a protocol signed by a responsible person. This document is presented to the service company when concluding an agreement for the supply of an object with electricity.

After the work is completed, it is necessary to invite a specialist to check the system and obtain a test report for the electrical wiring

When carrying out the wiring installation activities yourself, it is important to observe personal safety measures. Electric shock can cause irreparable harm to health, cause death. Installation is carried out only when the power supply is switched off. Putting the equipment into operation is carried out in the presence of an authorized representative of the design organization.

The technology of electrical wiring in wooden houses has its own characteristics. Not only will it be necessary to pull the cable from the nearest substation to connect to the network, but the wiring inside the premises must be carried out in compliance with special safety standards.

Wiring Requirements

Wood is the most popular material used in the construction of private housing. Despite its merits, wood is a fire hazardous and highly flammable material.

Regardless of the material - brick, gas silicate blocks, concrete, timber, when a fire occurs, an open fire spreads to the furniture and interior decoration of the room. First, everything inside the room burns down, and only after that the load-bearing walls, partitions and roofing begin to burn.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in wooden buildings:

Safety - Wiring must be routed in such a way as to minimize the possibility of overheating and ignition of the cable, as well as to prevent the transmission of open flames to adjacent wooden structures.
Design - the technical characteristics and performance of the wires and components used must correspond to the calculated peak load in a particular section of the electrical network. To prevent heating, the cable cross-section is selected with a margin of 20–30%.
Laying method - it is preferable to carry out electrification of wooden buildings in an open way. This allows you to easily and at regular intervals to diagnose the state of the power grid.
Isolation - the location of the input node (electric panel) must be isolated from the interface with wooden structures. Ideally, if the electrical panel is installed in a room with a partition made of non-combustible materials.
Conductor - as a conductor, it is better to use a three-core copper cable with insulation from non-combustible materials. Laying the cable in PVC corrugation is strictly prohibited.
Automation - an automatic switch must be installed for each group in the electrical network. The circuit breaker current rating is selected in accordance with the load on the site. It is highly not recommended to overestimate the current rating, as this will lead to overheating of the conductor.

It is not recommended to carry out independent laying of a power cable and installation of an electrical network without appropriate experience - this should be done by specialists. But every owner of a private house must know the basic rules of electrification. This will allow him to diagnose the existing wiring, and also make it possible to control the quality of work of hired electricians.

Regulations

Rules for the installation of electrical installations is the main document for the design of electrical wiring

General requirements and rules for electrical wiring are described in the following documents:

PUE, edition 7 - the main document used in the design of the electrical network. It describes in detail the choice of conductor, switchgear, automation and lighting.
SNiP 3.05–06–85 - electrical wiring in old and new houses. Connection methods and rules for entering a power cable into a dwelling.
SNiP 31–02 - requirements for the installation of a power supply system in residential buildings. The document complies with the rules and regulations described in the PUE.

The information contained in these sources is described in technical language and may be incomprehensible to an unqualified specialist. For self-study, we recommend that you rely on the "Electrical Installation Rules", since this document most clearly articulates the meanings and concepts necessary for wiring in private homes.

Preparation of a power supply project

An example of two electrical network device diagrams in a wooden house

After consideration of the application by the managing body, an agreement and technical conditions necessary for connection to the local electrical network will be prepared. Then you can proceed to the design of the power supply, which is performed in the following sequence:

When drawing up a project, one should be guided by the EMP. According to this document, electrical wiring is laid strictly in a vertical or horizontal direction. The optimal angle of rotation is 90 o .

The socket group, switches and junction boxes should be located in open areas with free access. Usually, switches are mounted 80–150 cm from the floor level, and a socket or socket group - 50–80 cm. The number of sockets varies from 1–6 pieces. The exact amount depends on the size of the room, but not less than one piece per 6m 2.

When designing a cable route, it should be taken into account that the minimum distance from the openings should not be less than 10 cm. If the cable can come into contact with metal elements along the route, then it is removed by 15–30 cm in any convenient direction.

Choice of wire and devices

The cross section of the electrical wiring, taking into account the total power of the electrical network

When arranging private power networks, two types of cables are used: NYM and VVGng. The NYM type cable is a power cable that meets the European standard and is used for laying electrical networks with a rated voltage not exceeding 660 V. VVGng cable is a bare power cable, double vinyl braided, operating in networks with a constant voltage of not more than 1 kW.

The cross section of the cable for laying electrical networks is determined in "mm 2". For designation, the marking is applied to the cable insulation and is indicated by two numbers. The first digit indicates the number of wires inside the single insulation. The second digit is the cross-sectional area of the conductor. For example, when an electrician says that a three-core copper cable is needed one and a half squares, this means - NYM cable 3x1.5 mm.

The easiest way to determine the minimum cross-section of the power cable core for a particular section of the network is a special table. This method is proven, as it is used in the design of electrical networks in apartment buildings. The table for selecting the cross section of the core can be found in the photo above.

As a rule, a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5–4 mm is used for socket groups, and an aluminum cable with a cross section of 1.5–2.5 mm is used for lighting. In the case of wooden houses, it is recommended to use only copper wiring, as this will protect the electrical network from overheating.

Wire of various sections for wiring in a wooden house

According to the PUE, each section of the electrical network is equipped with a residual current device and a circuit breaker designed for the corresponding current indicators. To calculate the current strength, the standard formula is used -I \u003d P / U cosφ, where:

I - current strength;
P is the total power of electrical appliances connected to one section of the power grid;
U - voltage in the mains;
cosφ is a constant coefficient. In household networks, it is almost always equal to 1.

For example, it is required to determine the current strength for the network section to which household equipment with a total power of 3 kW will be connected. I \u003d 3000 / 220 \u003d 13.64 A. Taking into account a small margin and rounding, it turns out that this section will require an RCD and a diphatomat, designed for a rated current of 16A.

To determine the type of circuit breaker, it is necessary to calculate the minimum short-circuit current: I short circuit = 3260 x S / L, where S is the conductor cross section in mm2, L is the conductor length in m. As a rule, in networks with a mixed load, which will be presented in most private houses, type “C” machines are used.

Sockets are selected taking into account the power of electrical appliances. Usually, these are sockets with grounding, rated for 16 A current. It is worth remembering that if it is planned to use several electrical appliances in a particular room, then it is better to install a socket group for 2-3 products than to use a “tee” in the future.

Selection of input cable and automation

On the left - an electric meter, on the left - an RCD with a lead-in cable

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house - step by step instructions

It is optimal if the switchboard is installed in a special room with a concrete partition or wall

The technology for installing electrical wiring in a wooden house will consist of several stages: supplying a power cable to the house, installing a switchboard, laying a cable route, connecting contacts and checking performance.

To carry out the work, you will need to prepare an electric drill with a crown nozzle, a screwdriver, a Phillips and slotted screwdriver, an indicator screwdriver and protective rubberized gloves.

Switchboard installation

Switchboard for a private house for 12-24 modules

The switchboard is a device for entering a power cable and distributing incoming electrical energy. Inside the shield there is electrical equipment responsible for the connection, accounting, safety and correct operation of the power supply system.

Ready-made switchboards from the manufacturer are a plastic, metal or combined box with a door, DIN rail, zero and ground bus. The shield dimensions are selected according to the number of modules used. For wooden houses, a shield for 12–15 modules is enough.

The installation of the shield consists of several stages:

When using a shield for 16–24 modules, as a rule, there are two DIN rails in it. It is better to install an introductory machine, a counter and an RCD on the upper rail in the required quantity.

Circuit breakers will be located on the lower din-rail. This type of distribution of modules will allow faster and more convenient connection. After mounting all the elements, it is recommended to mark the modules according to their group. The shield assembly sequence is shown in the video below.

Cable entry into the room

Laying a power cable to a residential building by air

The input of a power cable into a residential building can be performed in two ways: underground and by air. The first method is more reliable, since an armored cable protected by a corrugated pipe will be used. In this case, the wiring itself will be located under a 30-40 cm layer of earth.

A trench 70–80 cm deep is dug to lay the cable. A 15–20 cm layer of fine-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the trench and it is well compacted. Further, a protective corrugation is laid on the sand cushion, through which an armored cable is passed. Then the corrugated pipe is covered with a 10–15 cm layer of sand. At the end, the pipe is completely walled up in the ground.

Laying a power cable to a residential building underground

Cable routing through the air is carried out in cases where the distance between the house and the substation is too large. For this, a cable with a carrying cable is used, which is pulled between the supporting and residential buildings. If the distance from the post to the house exceeds 20 m, then an intermediate support is installed between them.

When a power cable is inserted through a load-bearing wall, a sleeve made of non-combustible materials is installed at the interface. It is optimal if the cable is introduced in the immediate vicinity of the location of the switchboard.

Installation of overhead switches and sockets

Removing the button and the face of the socket before installation

Overhead switches and sockets are used for both open and hidden wiring. The technology for installing a switch and a socket is similar, so let's take the process of installing a switch from Schneider Electric as an example.

The installation process consists of the following:

At the end, the operability of the switch is checked and the final assembly is carried out. The installation technology of the surface outlet is similar. As a rule, a three-core cable is used to connect sockets, therefore, when connecting, a yellow-green cable (ground) is present, which is connected to the central terminal.

Connection of wires and contacts

When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, the use of "twists" is not allowed. Ideally, if part of the cable from the difavtomat to the point of consumption is made from a single piece of wire.

To do this, before cutting the cable, it is required to mark the wall surface. Next, using a tape measure, you will need to measure the cable route and only then cut the cable with a margin of 20 cm.

Wago terminal blocks for wiring connection

If a cable connection is unavoidable, then it is better to use:

Terminal block - divided into products with a tightening screw and clamping plates. The latter are more optimal, since a plate is used to contact the cable and the bus, which does not damage the conductive core.
The spring terminal is the simplest and most effective connection method, in which the core is held in contact with the plate by a spring clip. Can be used to connect both aluminum and copper cables.

When installing electrical wiring in a wooden house, we recommend using terminal blocks from Wago. Products are distinguished by high build quality and have a wide range of products for cables of various sections. To connect, it is enough to strip the cable by 10 mm, lift the clamping levers up and lead the cable into the terminal hole.

Methods for open wiring

Exposed retro wiring using ceramic sockets and insulators

Opening wiring is the best solution for wiring in a wooden house. The open method of laying the cable from the switchboard to the point of consumption has been used for a long time - previously the cable was located on ceramic insulators. Thus, the wiring did not have direct contact with the wooden wall.

Now this technology is called retro-wiring and is used in rooms where the total peak power is quite small and does not exceed 4 kW. In residential buildings with high peak load, this technology has a lot of disadvantages and limitations.

Open wiring in a wooden house without additional insulation

For an open wiring device, it is customary to use:

Some homeowners use a combination approach. For cable laying in straight sections, a steel straight pipe is used, and metal corrugation is used as rotary elements. This approach is not aesthetically pleasing, but it is quite reliable. For safety reasons, all metal pipes and other elements must be connected to the ground loop.

Works related to electricity require attention, compliance with the rules and accuracy. And do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house requires even more attention: the material is very fire hazardous. Therefore, when planning and installing, pay attention to the requirements and recommendations of regulatory documents. If you do not have enough experience, it is highly desirable to invite a competent electrician for advice before connecting, and even better before starting installation. He will be able to point out to you flaws and miscalculations.

Wiring diagram in the house

According to current regulations, when connecting electricity without a transformer, the power consumption for a private house should not exceed 15 kW. It is found by adding up the power of all electrical appliances that can be turned on at the same time. If the figure found is less than 15 kW, the introductory machine is set to 50 A. If the power is greater, a transformer is also needed. Its parameters will be indicated to you in the project, since in this case, you cannot do without it.

Where to put the introductory shield, hull requirements

Recently, representatives of energy supply organizations have demanded the installation of meters (and introductory machines, respectively) on the street. This is done in order to be able to control consumption even if the owners are not at home. But this requirement is not supported by anything, and, if you wish, you can install everything inside the house. But more often, in order not to quarrel with the controllers, the requirements are met, and an automatic machine and a counter are installed on the street.

For outdoor installation, the circuit breaker (AZ) and the meter must be in a sealed case, protected from dust, dirt and moisture. The protection class for installation must be at least IP-55. For the convenience of monitoring readings, there should be a window in the door of the box for the electric meter. For installation inside a wooden house, the requirements are somewhat lower: IP-44, but the housing must be metal.

Organization of entry into the house

After the introductory machine, an electric meter is installed, then another RCD is installed - for an emergency shutdown of the power supply in the presence of a short circuit, and then the cable is connected to the electrical panel inside the house. inside the house should be one step lower than the one installed outside. In this case, if there are problems, the machine in the house will work first and you will not have to climb the wall every time to the introductory machine installed there.

Single-pole automata are installed in the shield, to which wires are connected that diverge throughout the premises. They are mounted on DIN rails, their number is recruited depending on how many separate “branches” of power supply are required. To find out how many machines should be in your shield, count the number of required groups, two or three free machines are added “for development”. This will be the "branches". According to the quantity received, select the electrical panel in size.

Divide consumers into groups

When planning a wiring diagram in a wooden house, all connection points are divided into separate groups (they are often called consumption groups). For example, all sockets on the ground floor are powered by one machine, a separate device is placed on lighting fixtures in the house, and another one is used for street lighting. If some powerful electrical equipment is used - a boiler, an electric boiler, an electric stove, etc. - for them it is desirable to conduct separate branches of power supply and install personal machines. Separate protection devices are also installed for the power supply of outbuildings (if you do not want to pull separate inputs to them and install a separate meter, but only on condition that the power of all electrical appliances does not exceed 15 kW).

From a safety point of view, it is better to make as many separate branches of the power supply as possible. This will increase the number of machines and increase the cost of the project, but will reduce the number of potentially dangerous connection points. It is in the places where the conductors are removed that problems most often arise: the contacts oxidize, heat up, then start to spark. Therefore, it is better to make the number of connections as small as possible.

And, at the last stage, it is advisable to draw a diagram of the distribution of electricity in the premises on the plan of the house. At the same time, consumer groups are easier to draw in different colors. So you can more fully imagine what the wiring diagram in a wooden house will look like, it will be easier to do it yourself. For example, everything may look like the photo below.

Types of electrical wiring in a wooden house

After installing the shield and installing all the necessary machines, you can start wiring electrical cables in the house. There are three ways to lay an electrical cable in a wooden house:

Features of closed wiring in a wooden house

As you understand, closed wiring can be done at the construction or overhaul stage. Moreover, when laying it, there are features: all connection nodes must be mounted in special metal boxes, to which there must be free access. They cannot be hidden under the finish, because their covers are selected to match and / or try to place them in places that do not attract attention.

If hidden wiring in a wooden house is carried out not with a cable, but with insulated wires, the wall thickness of metal pipes is regulated:

for copper wire with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm 2, the wall thickness can be any;
with a cross section of up to 4 mm 2, the thickness of the metal wall must be at least 2.8 mm;
if the cores have a cross section of 4.5 to 10 mm 2, the pipe must have a wall of at least 3.2 mm;
with a cross section from 10.2 to 16 mm 2, the wall should not be thinner than 3.5 mm.

When laying electrical cables, there are no requirements for the wall thickness of a metal pipe, therefore it is permissible to lay cables (they have double and triple insulation) in a metal corrugation or, as they say, in a metal hose. It's much more convenient and faster.

Laying the cable in a corrugated metal hose (metal hose) is much more convenient and requires less time and money

But in any case, since the wires will be hidden, access to them is extremely limited. Making changes to an existing network is troublesome and expensive. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of closed electrical wiring in a wooden house, carefully check the circuit and do everything very carefully and scrupulously.

Rules for installing electrical wiring cable channels

When installing open wiring or laying it in cable channels, there are also rules. They relate to how far from the floor, ceiling, corners and other structures they can be placed. All these norms for greater clarity are displayed in the photo.

Selection of the cable section and its connection

The cross section of the cable conductors is selected depending on the planned load (in kW) and the material of the conductor. It is not necessary to do all the wiring with a cable with the same core. You can save money without sacrificing security. To do this, a section is selected for each section, depending on the power of the devices that will be connected here. Their power consumption is summed up, about 20% of the reserve is added, and the section is selected in the table according to this value.

To connect the power supply in a wooden house, fire safety requirements are added. The main thing is that the wire sheath must be non-combustible. In such wires, the name contains the letters "ng". Double () or triple (NYM) cable insulation is also required to provide the required degree of protection.

In order for the wiring in a wooden house to be done correctly with your own hands, it is best to use cables with multi-colored cores. Then you definitely will not confuse zero with phase or ground. Usually the colors are distributed in this way:

If you buy a European-made cable, there are different colors:

"earth" - yellow-green;
"zero" - white;
"phase" - red.

Choice of sockets and switches

To ensure fire safety in a wooden house, sockets and switches with a metal mounting plate should be installed. First, it is mounted on the wall, then the outer panel is installed. The use of plastic plates is allowed, but the plastic must be non-flammable and have the appropriate fire inspection certificate.

Moreover, for the safe connection of most modern equipment, three-wire sockets with a ground wire are required. It is also required when lighting is connected, but this is often not done indoors. But for outdoor lighting, grounding is necessary: here the operating conditions are much more complicated.

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house: installation rules

In a wooden house, you must constantly remember that the material is combustible and in this case it is better to play it safe. Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house is done in compliance with the basic rules:

First, the entire scheme is assembled, the performance of each branch () is checked. We check each of the power lines for the absence of a short circuit, “to ground”. Only then the wires are connected to the machine. We recommend that you immediately sign what is connected. Then it's easier to troubleshoot. Having connected one line, turn on the power supply, connect the load. If there are no hits, great - you can continue. Turn off the machines (which goes to the already checked line and the introductory one), work with the next line. After all the lines are checked and connected (signed), the introductory machine turns on. Then, gradually, one by one, the lines turn on.
Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house is carried out only with whole pieces of cable without connections and twists.
Wiring is done in stages. Having laid a piece of cable, be sure to check the integrity of the insulation of the laid piece of cable. To do this, the cores and insulation are “ringed” relative to the ground and cores.
When cutting the cable, a margin of length is left - at least 15-20 cm. If, with an incorrect connection, it will be possible to redo it without pulling the cables.
Be sure to follow the colors of the wires.

Subject to these rules, electrical wiring in a wooden house, made independently, will be safe and reliable.

Overhaul or construction of a country or country house, the construction of office outbuildings is usually completed by supplying electricity and interior decoration. Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house requires special attention, as well as compliance with a number of special instructions, norms and requirements. This is due, firstly, to the fire safety rules for electrical installation in wooden houses, and, secondly, to the low thermal conductivity of wood and its hygroscopicity.

The installation of electrical appliances and electrical wires in a wooden structure has a number of features that must be taken into account during construction or repair. Electrical wiring in a wooden house, the rules for installing and fixing electrical outlets, circuit breakers, electrical energy meters have a number of differences compared to the electrical facilities of a brick house.

Properly installed electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands will help ensure trouble-free operation of the power supply system of a house or cottage.

Step-by-step instructions for performing the work include a number of mandatory actions:

determination of the type of power supply - overhead line or underground cable;
production of a power supply scheme for the premises, taking into account the power of all consumer electrical appliances;
layout plan of the electrical panel, circuit breakers, electric meter;
marking the location of lighting devices, stationary electrical appliances and electric heaters;
determining the location and number of electrical outlets and switches. Electrical cable wiring plan for each connection point, indicating the length and required cross-section of the electrical wire.

Drawing up a diagram and power supply plan

When drawing up a power supply scheme, an electrical cable installation plan, the following must be taken into account:

The switchboard with an electric meter and circuit breakers should be installed near the front door at a height of about 1.5 m. This is due to ease of access to the switchboard and security conditions.
An input safety circuit breaker is mounted in front of the electric meter.
For each group of consumers, a separate circuit breaker is installed to protect against overloads.

The optimal height of the lighting switches is 1.5 m, they must be located in the entrance area from the side of the door lock or door handles. Electrical outlets are usually located at a height of 0.8 - 1 m above the floor, their number and location is determined by the number of electrical appliances used. When drawing up a plan for the location of sockets and switches, one should also take into account the arrangement of furniture so that pieces of furniture do not block access to them.

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house imposes increased requirements on the electric cables used in the work. For wooden buildings, it is necessary to use only a cable with a copper core, double or triple insulation, made of non-combustible material, as well as a section corresponding to the load.

The scheme and layout of electrical appliances will allow you to calculate the total required amount of electrical cable and auxiliary elements. These include junction boxes, connection blocks, sockets and switches. After acquiring the necessary materials, electrical wiring in a wooden house can be mounted quite simply and quickly.

Various mounting methods

Electrical wiring in a wooden house (see photo) can be mounted in various ways:

external wiring on brackets or porcelain insulators;
concealed wiring in cable channels;
laying a hidden cable in a hose or pipe;
wiring in a cable box.

External or open wiring in a wooden house of an electric cable using mounting brackets or porcelain insulators is one of the easiest and most affordable installation methods. The disadvantages of external wiring include: