How many bricks do you need for a chimney. Do-it-yourself brick chimney laying

Chimneys are used to remove combustion products and generate draft in furnaces. By design and location relative to the furnace, chimneys are root, mounted and in the form of a channel in the main wall. Pipes installed on the furnace are called mounted pipes. This is actually a continuation of the smoke channel of the furnace; they are convenient because they do not take up space in the room. Indigenous chimneys are arranged in the form of a pipe riser standing separately at the furnace on its own foundation.

Their use is especially justified in wooden houses with a group arrangement of heating devices. In brick buildings, it is better to arrange smoke channels in the internal capital walls.

Wall chimneys do not take up living space and do not require the cost of materials.

The determination of the cross section of the smoke channel of the pipe is carried out depending on the heat transfer of the furnaces. The size of the cross-section of the channels must correspond to the amount of flue gases flowing through them and be at least 130x130mm for furnaces with heat transfer up to 3500W. For furnaces with a heat output of more than 3500W, the pipe section is made 130x250mm. For Russian stoves and fireplaces with a large portal, the chimney section is 260x260mm.

Depending on the size of the channel, the masonry is carried out in different ways: in four “four” bricks, five “pyaterik” bricks or six “six” bricks.

The chimney consists of the following parts:

Chimney masonry does not differ from stove masonry.

The difficulty is laying it at the place where it passes through the attic floor and the expansion device above the roof. The main requirement is the verticality of the array, dense filling of the joints, and the achievement of a smooth surface of the smoke channels.

The laying of the built-in pipe is a continuation of the laying of the furnace, since it is installed on its ceiling and is carried out on the same mortar until it passes through the attic floor.

At the point where the pipe passes through the ceiling, a horizontal cut is arranged - the walls are widened. Horizontal cutting is done for fire safety.

The cutting and the pipe are placed simultaneously with the dressing of the seams, the outer wall gradually expands, and the inner channel goes in one section.

This is achieved by overlapping the outer masonry by 4 cm in each row.

Non-combustible thermal insulation, such as basalt mats, must be laid between the cutting and wooden beams.

In a freshly cut wooden house, cutting should be done taking into account the shrinkage of the walls, lowering it lower by 4% of the height of the walls.

It is better to lay the riser within the attic space using a beacon.

To do this, 2-3 rows of pipes are laid out above the cutting. A plumb line from the roof plane is lowered to one of the corners.

Masonry brick chimney

A nail is hammered into the point on the roof lathing from which the plumb line is lowered. A nylon thread is tied to the nail, and the lower end of the thread is tied to a nail hammered into the seam of the chimney masonry in the corner. The laying is carried out along this corner, checking after 3-4 rows with a square or measuring the diagonals.

The greatest difficulty is laying pipes above the roof.

There, the masonry is led to a complex clay-cement mortar. I make the solution like this: in the clay-sand mortar, from which the furnace is used, I add 1 liter of cement, a little water for 10 liters and mix thoroughly with a mixer.

If the pipe is laid without adding cement, then it may turn out like this.

The riser of the pipe is brought out above the lower edge of the roof by 2 rows and they start laying the otter - widening the pipe that protects the riser from atmospheric precipitation.

Lay it with careful dressing of seams. The first row is increased by a brick overlap by a quarter in one direction to form an overhang over the roof towards the slope. The second row begins the formation of an overhang from the sides and makes it an overlap on both sides of a quarter of a brick.

The inner walls of the channel are strictly vertical. Since the pipes can be of different sections, and the roof has a different slope, the otter is placed individually each time. Here is one of the options for the ordering of the otter and the ordering of the fluff.

Laying fluff is a rather laborious and time-consuming job. To increase productivity, fluff can be made of reinforced concrete. For reinforcement, 5-7 mm reinforcement is used at the rate of 4-5 bars on each side of the plate.

Two bars of reinforcement must necessarily lie on the brickwork.

The slab for fluffing can be made on site or separately with subsequent laying. In both cases, it is necessary to make formwork. When manufactured on site, the formwork is fixed as firmly as possible. The width of each side of the formwork must be at least 250mm from the "smoke". Between the fluff and the ceiling, it is imperative to put a heat-insulating material. In this photo it is two layers of 5mm asbestos.

When passing the ceiling with a double-circuit metal pipe, the hole in the ceiling is closed with a sheet of galvanized iron, on which a basalt insulation is placed and wrapped around the pipe.

Sometimes, to simplify laying, instead of laying an otter, I make such a belt.

Above the otter, put the neck of the pipe of the same section as the riser.

Finish laying with a head. To protect the pipe from atmospheric precipitation, it is desirable to install a cap made of galvanized iron or other material on it. The cap protects the upper part of the pipe and prevents the penetration of moisture into the channel.

The head of the pipe plays only a decorative role, it can not be done.

If a head is made at the pipe, then the internal section in this place should not change so that there are no swirls of smoke in the pipe.

In order for water not to stagnate on the horizontal surfaces of the otter and the head, they are plastered with a slope.

The height of the pipe above the roof has a significant effect on the operation of the furnace.

If the pipe is located in the zone of wind backwater, then in windy weather, smoke can go into the room. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to set the height of the pipe relative to the roof ridge according to the figure.

If you do not follow this rule, then this can happen.

After the laying of the pipe is completed, so that precipitation does not fall into the attic and does not damage the pipe riser, it is necessary to close the gap between the pipe and the roof with galvanized iron or other material.

Here is a version of the pipe without the otter.

To prevent water from flowing down the pipe under the roof, an incision is made through the pipe with a grinder to a depth of 10 mm.

Then the apron sheet is inserted and the groove is filled with sealant.

You can learn more about laying chimneys and working on the roof from the video guide “Do-it-yourself stoves”.

Here are pictures of the finished pipes.

Protective materials for wooden structures
Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation
You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation
Help - sandwich pipes
Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bath
Protecting the oven from fire

If you decide to build a bath, then do not forget about the high-quality insulation of the stove, chimney, walls and ceiling. Otherwise, you may have serious problems with the ignition of the ceiling of the building. Therefore, we will try to dwell in more detail on the topical problem today - do-it-yourself pipe insulation in the bath.

Protective materials for wooden structures

Due to the fact that the chimney and the furnace heat up quickly, a fire can occur. Moreover, according to tradition, wood is the material for the bath.

Back in the old days, it was customary to insulate walls, a ceiling, a stove, a chimney with an asbestos layer, clay and other available materials that conduct heat energy rather poorly and are resistant to elevated temperatures.

So how to overlay the pipe from the stove today? Insulation of the chimney structure is necessary both for the purpose of fire safety and protection against condensate, so that cooling is slower and the smoke exhaust system lasts longer.

It is a mistake to think that a few metal sheets will be enough to isolate from fire, with which the ceiling around the chimney is upholstered. After all, the metal also heats up quickly, so it will not protect against fire, and as a heat insulator it will also not work.

Red brick is not always needed for pipe lining, although it is endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties.

The reason is that such a design is not suitable for every bath in design.

To better understand how to wrap a chimney pipe from fire, consider two options for insulating materials in the form:

Furnace pipe insulation: thermal insulation

This is a unique material, the structure of which includes foamed polyethylene, located between a pair of foil sheets.

With the help of thermal insulation, you can qualitatively insulate the chimney, and on your own.

The thickness of the thermal insulation varies from 2 to 10 mm, and the thicker the material, the greater its resistance to high temperatures.

The top layer of the foil serves as a reliable protection of the pipe from significant overheating. With the help of a wire or adhesive tape of a metal craftsman, a thermal insulation is attached, which is then wrapped around the chimney.

You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation

Modern material includes two layers: heat insulator and foil. The second - plays a reflective function and can save up to 90% of the thermal energy in the building. Folgoizol is a harmless material compared to other analogues, since compacted food acts as a foil. The material is resistant to ultraviolet and elevated temperatures within the range of -65 to +175 degrees Celsius, a good insulator.

Who still does not know how to insulate the chimney pipe in the sauna, we recommend covering the steam room ceiling, walls and chimney with foil insulation. As a result, you will get a room that is similar in design to a thermos. In the sauna, heat will remain, and the bath will quickly gain temperature, and then slowly cool down.

Help - sandwich pipes

For those who wish to equip a safe chimney in the bath, we suggest using a sandwich pipe.

This design includes several sections that are easily placed into each other, i.e. looks like a layered cake.

We lay out a brick chimney

Here are the main components of a sandwich pipe:

• stainless steel layer (inside);
• insulation in the form of basalt / mineral wool (in the middle);
• steel with zinc coating (outside).

This creative design represents the insulation of a chimney built into a common system and is designed to solve two problems at the same time:

• protection against soot accumulation inside;
• maintaining the optimum outside temperature.

It is easy to assemble a sandwich pipe on your own and use it for a sauna with an iron stove or a bath.

What to do if you built a Russian steam room with a brick stove? Below we will consider how to overlay the pipe in this situation in order to protect it from ignition.

Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bath

At elevated temperatures, refractory red brick retains its operational properties, therefore it is in demand when building a chimney in a bath with a stone stove. In this case, you are guaranteed protection of the pipe from fire and long-term preservation of heat.

The service life of the structure depends on how competently the brick pipe is folded. Do not save on materials during the construction of the chimney, because.

then the repair will cost you much more.

Let's take a closer look at how to isolate the pipe in the bath from the ceiling:

1. With the help of asbestos, overlay the outlet of the pipe on the ceiling and through the roof.
2. Using galvanized material, insulate the walls from the inside of the pipe.

   Standard iron sheets are completely unsuitable for this purpose due to their tendency to corrode.

3. Run a box around the pipe at the points of its passage through the ceiling.
4. Pour expanded clay inside the box to retain heat and protect wooden floors from ignition.

You professionally wrapped the pipe, but the work on arranging the chimney did not end there.

The next step is to insulate the furnace, ceiling and walls of the bath.

Protecting the oven from fire

Modern metal stoves are mounted on a foundation, sheathed with sheets of the same material at the back and side of the wall. If you yourself beat the furnace only with metal, then its appearance will not be very aesthetic. It is better to make the outer masonry with red brick, which isolates the stove from fire and retains heat in the bath.

Due to the fact that asbestos releases toxic substances at elevated temperatures, it is not recommended to use it in a steam room.

Natural felt is considered harmless, which, moreover, is a good insulator. At a price, this material is more expensive than asbestos sheets, and when smoldering, it emits a specific smell (felt does not light up), which can be immediately felt.

If you intend to install the stove on a wooden floor, then first it is better to lay a felt material in a couple of layers, then lay out a brick in three rows. For walls and floors, it is advised to lay sheets of metal as an insulator, the height of which varies from 50 to 70 cm.

And you will no longer have questions about how to wrap the chimney pipes.

Before starting construction work, smoke brick channels must be prepared, corresponding to the special design of the furnace, the features of the internal layout of the premises, the structural differences of the roof.

Further, until they cover the neck of the cut (blank). It should be noted that regardless of the external size of the inner section, the vertical smoke along the entire length is the same and is approximately 140x270 millimeters (average parameters, but in fact it may vary depending on the power of the heater and the size of the smoke).

After five rows of doors, the section begins to adhere to the external dimensions of the first row of approximately 590 x 450 mm, which is achieved by inserting half and a quarter of the bricks. To avoid deflection in the flue section, insert 60mm brick slabs inserted inside. In the third row, the dimensions of the brick chimney change again and are already 510 × 650 millimeters.

Brick slabs are also inserted inside. The outer dimensions of the fourth row are made of 570 × 710 millimeters, and inside - bricks with a thickness of 90-100 millimeters. The fifth and sixth lines are made of solid brick and strictly follow the dress code. If necessary, cutting can be continued for another type.

After the wall is completed, the brick-and-brick structure is moved to the attic, where the hoist is installed.

To reach it outside, there must be a first opening on the roof. The foundation is built very quickly and easily, since it involves the implementation of conventional masonry and does not require manipulation of the dimensions of the pipes.

When it comes to the roof, all work moves towards the roof. The vortex pattern continues to rise one or two rows above the roof, after which the construction of the otter begins.

This segment of the chimney consists of nine types, while it is arranged so that the outer dimension of each successive row exceeds the previous block of bricks.

At the same time, the size of the smoke channel must remain the same, so carefully select the interior panels with which it is configured. At the beginning, the bricks are laid in such a way that only one gap is formed in front, and the external size of the chimney does not change at the edges. In the third row, the otter becomes wider due to the front bricks, which means that the front ledge gradually starts to appear on the sides.

In the fourth line, the side projections increase in length. The more their length increases in the fifth line, the greater the difference between the chimney and the roof slab. In the sixth order, this gap is almost completely closed, and in the seventh case, the formation of the side surfaces is completed.

As a result of all the transformations described above, an anterior and two lateral projections are formed, the last protrusions remain.

As you can see, at the moment there is nothing that even many experienced builders would ask the question of how to build a brick chimney, because the matter is rather complicated and requires the most attention and compliance with all technological requirements.

The last fourth projections are formed in the eighth order. Of particular importance is the observation of the ligation of bricks and the careful selection of brick slabs, which allow the smoke channel to remain unchanged with a constant change in the external dimensions of the pipe.

Brick chimney - we build a reliable structure independently

Finally, the ninth type of otter is defined similarly to the eighth, and at the same time, the neck of the chimney already begins at this stage. Its size may vary depending on the height of the chimney. At this stage, you must adhere to the rules and regulations that apply to the height of the chimney above the roof, as this will have serious consequences for the draft during the operation of the stove (see "Chimney with hands").

So, we figured out how to build a brick chimney, but you need to look for some of the nuances and problems that you will have to face in the process.

During the implementation of the wall, it is necessary to control the thoroughness of the ligation of bricks with each other, especially for half, quarter and other parts and brick slabs.

It will not be a big problem for a skilled worker with stoves to distribute a portion of the required size from the whole brick, but for those who do not have enough experience, this can be very difficult.

The best way out of this position is to buy a special grinder. This makes it easy to obtain masonry elements for the chimney of the required size, which is especially important if the panels are needed to form a smoke channel between the cutter or otters.

It is important to remember that the thickness of the seam directly affects the strength of the brick, and because it is thinner, the chimney will become stronger.

In this regard, you must carefully measure the location of the future installation, in accordance with these data, use the cutting line of the knives, and only after that you cut. Sometimes it may even be necessary for some bricks to be irregular in shape, so a mistake here can cost broken bricks and waste time.

To summarize all of the above, it is easy to understand that it is very difficult to install a brick chimney with your own hands on a person who does not have enough experience.

But don't give up, because this is an easy way for beginners to take advantage of the building. Also read: "Do-it-yourself wind chimney."

Alternative brick chimney design

If the above method of laying a chimney seems too difficult and impossible for someone, then don't give up and don't give up. There is an alternative way to install a brick chimney that has the least amount of skill. This means making normal masonry, in which the entire chimney that emerges from the pipe and ends with the head will be of the same size.

There is a logical question: what in this case cuts and tears? They will also be, but they will also be made of concrete. Also read: "Chimney diagram for a gas boiler."

Brick brick for gas boilers and ventilation, detailed video instruction:

Before starting work, it is necessary to first place metal rods, wire or fittings with a diameter of 5-7 millimeters.

When installing a chimney in places where it is necessary to cut an otter, the envelope parts must be installed in brick. It is important to ensure that metal elements do not cross the smoke channel. After completing the chimney wall, it is only necessary to install the support in the right place, prepare the cement mortar and fill it (see also: “Do-it-yourself chimney cleaning - methods”).

As you can see, even without a lot of experience and with minimal brick brick knowledge, your hands for building a chimney without resorting to the help of builders, but instead opted for the installation of metal pipes, which, when performed, are much worse than brick chimneys.

If you have something that does not work right away, without panic, just study the circuit more carefully, see the advice of experienced craftsmen, try to figure out what is causing the problems, the next attempt will surely be successful.

The reward for hard work and inertia will be a good and functional chimney that will last over a decade and keep your heating equipment working properly.

Also read: "The device of the chimney in the bathroom."

The technology of laying a brick chimney in itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the brick oven itself, the pipe usually does not have internal channels that are complex in configuration. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot ignore the enormous importance of this department of the furnace, since the quality of the heating of the house and the safety of both the building itself and the people living in it directly depend on it.

Therefore, in order for all the work to be successful, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, relying on the recommendations of experienced craftsmen and on the developed and tested design schemes.
When erecting a chimney, it should be remembered that the evenness of the inner walls of the channel is no less important than the aesthetics of the outer masonry. Not only the stability of the required draft in the furnace depends on this circumstance, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves on smooth walls, without protruding mortar and deep seams, a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste, and the channel overgrows much slower.

What are brick chimneys?
Brick stove chimneys can be of different types, depending on their installation location, stove design, and how many heaters will be connected to the pipe. So, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: these are mounted, root and wall.

Mounted chimneys. The most widely used constructions are packed pipes. They are good because they are compact and do not take up any additional space in the room at all, but are simply a vertical continuation of the furnace.
A mounted chimney is, in fact, a continuation of the furnace up. Very often, the ordering of the furnace immediately includes the layout of the initial section of the pipe.
They are erected on top of the last row of bricks covering the furnace, around the left hole.

Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, truss system and rises above the roof.

Root chimneys. This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove to it, or several heating appliances located on one or even several floors.

The root chimney allows you to connect metal furnaces to it. As well as several heating devices located at different levels of the building.
In addition to metal, brick ovens can also be connected to such a pipe. This type of chimney is especially convenient if it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in neighboring rooms.

For example, for the kitchen you need a stove with a hob, and for the next room - only a heating one. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a root chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heaters are connected.

Not only two, but also three or four stoves located on different floors of the house can be connected to a pipe of this type. In any case, it is necessary to calculate the size of the internal chimney channel very accurately, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices are operating simultaneously.

Wall chimneys are built near the main (external or internal) walls or built into them. They can be used, just like the main ones, to connect several furnaces located on different floors of the building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is, as it were, outside the living quarters, without occupying their area. For example, on the first floor of the house a fireplace can be built and connected to the wall chimney (there the pipe will be more similar to a wall-mounted one according to the principle of structure), and on the second floor the smoke outlet of a metal furnace is embedded (as in the version with a root requirement).

The disadvantages of this version of the chimney are the considerable cost of the project and the complexity of the work. Firstly, the construction of this structure will require much more building material.

Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise in winter, with temperature changes, condensate will form in the internal channels, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the heater. Therefore, if this version of the chimney is chosen, it would still be wiser to sacrifice the area inside the premises and lead the pipe along the inner wall of the house.

Parameters of brick chimneys
The main sections of the brick chimney
A brick chimney is divided into departments that have an owl purpose and are named differently.

These features must be immediately clarified so that in the future it will be easier to understand the description of the work on the construction of the pipe (Figure 5).
1 - Pipe head. Laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are shifted to the outside to form a kind of “visor”, as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the walls of the chimney from precipitation.

2 - The neck of the pipe is located immediately below the head and has the same perimeter over its entire height, without protrusions, extensions or narrowing.
3 - "Otter" has a more complex masonry scheme, since a protective function is assigned to it. Firstly, the “otter” masonry, hanging over the gap formed at the junction of the roofing material and the pipe walls, closes it from the penetration of precipitation, and forms a space for the installation of a waterproofing material.

Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the place of passage through the roofing, due to the increased thickness, the necessary level of thermal insulation is created.
4 - A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted in the lower part of the otter, forms a kind of ebb, which closes the junction of the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 - "Fluffing" - this expanded part of the pipe, located in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits passage through the attic floor.

The walls of the "fluff", like the "otter", are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and they cannot be allowed to overheat.

6 - Roofing structure.
7 - The riser is a straight section of the pipe, which has an even masonry along the entire height and is located in the attic space from the “fluff” to the “otter”.
8 - Attic floor.

9 - An umbrella cap is often fixed on top of the head, which will protect the internal chimney channel from water and debris entering it.

The main function of the chimney is to effectively remove combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere.

How to build a brick chimney: a storehouse of useful tips for self-building

To do this, the chimney is connected to numerous channels located in the furnace structure, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then during the operation of the heater, good draft should be created inside the channels, which will contribute to the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the fact that the heat generated by it will fly out of the furnace literally “into the pipe”.

In a word, everything needs a “golden mean”.

Scheme of the correct ratio of the height of the chimney pipe, depending on the location on the roof (Figure 6):
If the chimney exits through the roof covering at a distance L1 not exceeding 1500 mm from the ridge (when measured horizontally), then its upper end edge must be raised above the ridge by at least 500 mm.
The chimney pipe passing through the roof at a distance of 1500 to 3000 mm from the ridge (L2 in the diagram) must be at least at the level of the ridge.

The chimney, installed from the ridge more than 3000 mm (L3), must, with its upper edge, be located on a conditional line drawn through the point of the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizontal.

In any of the above cases, regardless of the distance to the ridge, the height of the pipe above the roofing cannot be less than 500 mm. This fully applies to all flat roofs.

At the end of the topic of chimney parameters, there is an important remark. Do-it-yourself calculations are great, but the role of a properly designed and built chimney is so important (both for heating efficiency and for safety) that professional design is always the best option.

Self-activity in such responsible matters is a very risky business.

A brick chimney is a classic solution that has been used in everyday life for quite a long time and does not lose its popularity, despite the fact that more and more modern solutions are being introduced today.

This structure is being built at the stage of building the object and can have a different configuration.

1. Features of brick chimneys
2. Types of bricks used for the chimney
3. Pros and cons of brick construction
4. Preparation for work
5. Step by step description of work
6. Features and nuances of masonry

A little about chimneys made of bricks

The heating system and the outflow of combustion products in the house must be organized without fail.

For this purpose, in particular, a brick chimney is used, through which exhaust air is removed during the operation of heating appliances. Usually, a diverting structure made of such material is used for single heating and heating devices.

By configuration, a brick chimney can be square or round.

But the second option will cost more due to the complexity of the masonry. The diverting structure is being built in parallel with the construction of the walls of the building. Today it is allowed to build a chimney with a side length of at least 140 mm, and if the configuration is round, then the diameter should be 140 mm. In former times, the allowable limit was 150 mm.

We watch a video, a little about the installation work of a brick chimney:

The thickness of the walls is also regulated by certain standards.

It is not recommended to violate the integrity of the structure with holes for the cable and so on. The brick chimney must be solid, and in addition to this, the inner surface of the pipe must be as smooth as possible, without brick protrusions and cement sagging at the seams.

Type of brick for chimney and their features

Gas heating determines the type of material used in the construction of the outlet structure.

The difference between them lies in the value of the maintained temperature.

So, in the first case we are talking about 800 degrees, and in the second - about 1,000 degrees.

All other options, such as lightweight, porous or hollow material, are prohibited. Unlike the walls of the house, brick chimneys of various types cannot be plastered from the inside.

The erection of different parts of the structure is marked by the use of a cement mortar that is different in composition.

For that part of the chimney, which is located above the roof, a cement-sand working mixture is used.

Brick chimney - what you need to know

For laying below the roof level, cement-lime or lime mortar should be used.

If we compare brick chimneys of various types with other structures, for example, with a sandwich chimney, then in this case a single-walled solution is used. "Sandwich" is a double-walled version, that is, it is assumed that the chimney consists of two pipes: a larger and a smaller diameter.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick construction

Brick chimneys of various types have gained a high degree of popularity due to a number of features that will be discussed below:

• Increased resistance to high temperatures, as already mentioned, fireclay bricks withstand a limit of up to 1,000 degrees, while combustion products from the stove and fireplace reach the border of 750 degrees;
• An increased degree of thermal conductivity ensures a high efficiency of heating equipment, since brick chimneys of various types do not contribute to the rapid outflow of heat;
• The cost of construction from this material is low;
• Aesthetic value is no less important, especially in cases where a building is built in a certain style.

But in addition to the advantages, a brick square chimney has a number of significant disadvantages:

• The corners of the structure contribute to the formation of vortex flows, which in turn are a factor in counteracting the outflow of combustion products;
• The walls of the discharge structure are not always perfectly smooth, which contributes to the deposition of soot on the rough surface, and this eventually leads to a decrease in the working space, as a result of which traction deteriorates;
• Regular exposure to aggressive environments and temperature changes, which contributes to the formation of condensate, leads to the fact that the chimneys for red brick stoves are gradually destroyed.

In view of the foregoing, and also, taking into account the features of other types of diverting structures, the user decides for himself which option is preferable.

But still, the most common today is the laying of a brick chimney.

Preparation for work

The beginning of construction work of any type is the preparation of a project. In order for the outlet structure to function effectively, it is necessary to take into account a number of rules:

1. The dimensions of the pipe, namely its height and diameter, are determined by the characteristics of the heating equipment. But a brick multi-format chimney pipe cannot be less than 5 m.

   The relationship between these parameters and the traction force is obvious, since the larger the pipe section with insufficiently powerful heating equipment, the weaker the air outflow will be. And if the pipe diameter is too small, then even if there is sufficient height, the chimneys for red brick stoves will “smoke”.

2. The construction of the outlet structure in rooms that are well heated is carried out without pipe insulation.

   But on the site adjacent to the ceiling (up to 60 cm in length), a sandwich structure is mounted.

3. The construction of a brick chimney implies the need to provide free access for maintenance. For this, the butt joints of the structure are located at different levels with the ceiling. Otherwise, if difficulties arise in the operation of the system, it will be very problematic to get to the desired section of the pipe.

Watch the video, the beginning of the pipe:

It is important to have a good idea of ​​what elements make up the construction of a brick chimney.

So, the main components of the design:

• Overhead pipe - conducted from the furnace itself;
• Fluffing - this is the name of the laying of a brick chimney pipe, which is made with a broadening of up to 300 mm, but at the same time the original inner diameter of the pipe is preserved;
• Riser - rises in the attic and leads to the very roof;
• Otter - laying a chimney pipe, which is carried out with a widening of up to 100 mm and is an obstacle to the penetration of precipitation into the room;
• Neck - built on the principle of a riser and erected immediately after the otter;
• The head is the last section with a broadening that crowns the pipe.

Description of works

About what kind of brick a multi-format chimney is laid, it has already been said above.

Having dealt with the stages of work, you can proceed to the beginning of the masonry:

1. An overhead pipe is being built. Laying is carried out by means of a dressing method. At this stage, you should stop before reaching about 6 brick rows to the ceiling.
2. A do-it-yourself chimney made of red brick is further built with a broadening, which is called fluff.

   The recommended dimensions of this element are: 140X270 mm along the inner perimeter of the pipe, and 590X450 mm are selected from the outside. Construction is carried out using plates to get the desired result. The next row has the following parameters: 510x650 mm, while plates with a thickness of 60 mm are also used. The result is a row with dimensions of 570x710 mm. When the widening is ready, another row of the same dimensions is erected, taking into account the dressing.

3. A brick multi-format chimney for a metal furnace is built further in size than the overhead pipe, but above the fluff.

   This part is called the riser. At this stage, you must first prepare the outlet for the pipe in the roof.

4. Chimneys for red brick stoves are built after the riser is taken out of the roof no higher than 2 rows. Then the laying of the otter begins. This is another expansion. In height, this section is equal to nine rows, each of which is wider than the previous one by about half a brick. Brick plates are still installed inside the widening. As you can see, it is really possible to build a brick multi-format chimney for a metal furnace and other heating equipment on your own, but these sections with broadening are the main difficulty.
5. When thinking about how to build a red brick chimney with the highest quality, one should take into account the need to block the hole formed between the roof and the pipe.

   This is done by increasing the width of the rows of bricks.

6. When choosing which brick is suitable for the chimney, you need to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue. Since during the construction of the neck it is desirable that its quality and color harmoniously fit into the overall picture of the house.

   The head is built on the principle of fluff.

Masonry features

In addition to which brick to choose for the chimney, you should also pay attention to the thickness of the seams. The thinner they are, the more durable the structure can be as a result. If it was not possible to give a beautiful shape to the widenings, you can correct the flaws with a concrete mixture.

We watch a detailed video, the stages of work:

The sleeve of a brick multi-format chimney is not a prerequisite.

But such a measure allows you to get a completely sealed pipe, which will increase the reliability and efficiency of the design. The sleeve involves the installation of a stainless steel pipe inside the brick walls of the chimney. This option is only possible on straight sections.

Thus, in addition to the main stages of work, there are a number of nuances that you also need to know about in advance so that the chimney design turns out without flaws and lasts as long as possible.

The brick chimney is the most important element of the furnace heating system. It removes the products of combustion and creates a draft for the entry of fresh air into the furnace of the heating device. Brick chimney laying is a complex building process. It requires certain skills and knowledge.

What are brick chimneys - requirements, size, configuration

There are three types of chimneys.

1. Mounted construction. She continues to bake. Such a chimney is mounted on a concrete pipe fixed on the ceiling. Its slab is reinforced and must have a thickness of at least 5 cm.
2. Root construction. A separate foundation is being built for it. The root pipe is rarely used and only in cases where it is impossible to make a chimney of another type.
3. Wall outlet channel. It is built in the internal load-bearing walls of brick or stone.

Sometimes the construction of a wall chimney is carried out in an external load-bearing wall. Then additional work needs to be done:

1. Thicken the wall from the inside (in the form of a pilaster) in the area where the pipe will pass.
2. Stop hypothermia of the chimney, it will reduce draft due to steam condensation. To do this, it is necessary to maintain the required distance from the pipe to the outer plane of the bearing wall.

What to consider when building a chimney

The laying of the pipe must be carried out so that there is a sufficient distance between it and the outer side of the load-bearing wall - see the table with dimensions.

Chimneys are not allowed to be laid out in the corners of rooms and in areas where walls intersect. If the building is residential, the wall thickness of the pipe must be at least 10 centimeters. Complete tightness of the structure should be ensured; it should not let combustion products through.

Often the house is made of concrete, cinder and foam blocks, a silicate variety of brick. In this case, the sections of the walls along which the chimney will pass must be laid out of red brick. Their minimum thickness should be 12 cm. This requirement also applies to piers, partitions between smoke-removing channels.

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Before you lay out a brick chimney with your own hands, you should consider fire safety standards:

• the gap from the outer plane of the chimney to the walls of flammable materials must be at least 40 cm.
• in the areas of the passage of the chimney through the ceilings, it is necessary to make thickenings (edge).

The chimney channel along its entire length should be assembled so that the dimensions of its internal space are constant.

Structure height

The vertical length of the pipe most of all affects the efficiency of traction. A well-built chimney must have a height of at least 5 m. The height difference between the roof plane and the pipe head is also of great importance.

1. The top of the chimney must be flush with the ridge. Or rise slightly above it at a distance of no more than 3 m from it.
2. If the roof is flat, then the smoke outlet should rise above it by at least 1.2 m.
3. The distance from the grate of the furnace to the pipe mouth must be at least 5 m.
4. The height of the chimney above the roof depends on the point of its exit relative to the ridge or parapet. This value varies from 0.5 to 1.5 m.

Construction cross section

The dimensions of the chimney must be no less than the cross section of the outlet pipe of the stove. It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the smoke channel of the structure, based on the heat output of the heating device.

The cross section of the channel must correspond to the volume of combustion products passing through it and be not less than:

• 13 × 13 cm for stoves with heat output up to 3.5 kW;
• 13 × 25 cm for analogues with heat transfer more than 3.5 kW;
• under the Russian stove, which has a large portal, you should fold a brick pipe with a section of 26 × 26 cm with your own hands.

Which brick is better to use

High-quality work on laying pipes is possible only with the use of the best materials. Carefully burnt red full-bodied kiln bricks are used for the construction of the chimney structure. Suitable for work and refractory fireclay blocks. The grade of the material must be at least M-200.

When a brick chimney is laid with your own hands, you need to choose evenly painted blocks with clear edges. In this case, they can be placed on a minimum layer of mortar. The blocks must be single, that is, have dimensions of 25 × 12 × 6.5 cm.

When moving the chimney to the roof, single and double silicate bricks of the M-150 brand can be used. They have a high level of frost resistance.

What mortar is used for masonry

When working, the stove-maker can use different masonry mixtures:

1. Clay-sand mortar is used for laying red brick. Its proportions are 1:2. If the clay is very oily, then 3-4 volume fractions of sand are added.
2. When installing refractory blocks, a masonry mortar of refractory clay, fireclay and sand is mixed. The proportion of the mixture is 1:1:2.
3. To install the chimney in the attic, you can use a cement-lime-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:1:2.
4. For the head on the roof, you can use a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 2.

The mortar for laying the stove chimney after mixing it with water should have a creamy consistency.

masonry rules

The cross section of the structure must be a multiple of the dimensions of the bricks. The thickness of the outer pipe walls of the wall-mounted structures must be at least half a brick. The thickness of the outer walls of the bottom of the root structures for greater stability should be equal to a whole brick with a transition at the top to half a block.

Air ducts inside the structure should be placed in a vertical direction. It is impossible to mount hogs horizontally at the level of attic floors. This is required by fire safety regulations.

Each stove must be equipped with its own chimney. Rarely, a project allows two heaters to be connected to one channel. They should have a single-level arrangement, with a height cut of 75 cm or more.

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When installing two heaters (or a stove and an exhaust network), two channels can be connected in one riser. Their sizes remain the same. However, the installation of a two-channel chimney with a half-brick cross-section of half-brick channels is done in incomplete blocks. Five solid and two ¾ bricks are placed in each row. In this case, a reliable ligation of the masonry is achieved.

Installation of a double structure (chimney and ventilation duct) with half the size of the channels per solid block is made with eight bricks. If it is carried out when alternating even and odd levels, it will not be possible to connect the delimiting partition with the masonry of the outer wall. Therefore, the alternation must be done through three rows.

The first level is assembled from eight solid blocks. In the second, five whole and four ¾ blocks are placed. With this layout, the reliability of the structure increases.

Design features and pipe departments

Before you start laying a brick chimney with your own hands, you should study its design:

1. The first part of the chimney is the lower neck of the structure. She is placed on her shoulders. A valve is installed in it. When mounting the neck, the bricks are tied up.
2. Fluff is laid at a distance of 5-6 brick levels from the ceiling. This extension goes up to the attic.
3. The part of the device that is laid out with one's own hands in the under-roof room is called the riser. It goes to the base of the roof.
4. An otter is laid out from the roofing. It expands on all sides by at least 10 cm. This element of the device prevents precipitation from entering the house.
5. Next, the neck is laid out. Its dimensions are the same as those of the main pipe trunk.
6. Then the cap is placed. A deflector is mounted on it, which protects the chimney from precipitation.

Stages and process of laying a brick stove chimney

You should have a chimney diagram with its order in your hands. According to it, you must carry out the construction.

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Here is a step-by-step process for laying a stove chimney:

1. Prepare tools, materials and solution.
2. Take measurements to the gate and fluff.
3. Start laying blocks (mortar thickness should be 5-10 mm) pipes from the stove. Check the evenness of all rows with a level in all planes. After 3-4 levels, clean the channel from excess solution.
4. Fix the frame at the gate mounting point. It should not disturb the position of the top of the bricks. Therefore, cut a recess in them according to the dimensions of the frame.
5. Continue the construction of the structure to the level of the fluff. Calculate the number of rows that will need to be laid out to bring the fluff to the required size. Please note that in one row, the perimeter of the pipe increases by ¼ of the block width. The fluff should fit snugly with the floor beams. When they are located at a distance from the chimney structure, make persistent frames.
6. Next, in order, mount the fluff. It can be made square or rectangular.
7. For the calculated number of rows, go from fluff to the main dimensions of the riser. Bring it to the roof.

How to make a hole for a stove chimney in the roof

The dimensions of the hole in the roofing should be calculated accurately. Having laid the chimney up to the roof, using a plumb line and a hammer with a nail, mark the angular dimensions of the structure on the roof. Do it from the side of the attic.

Connect the holes punched with a nail with a pencil. So you get a rectangular projection of the section of the structure on the surface of the roofing. Then count 10 cm from all sides of the figure and draw a small rectangle inside it.

Connect the corners of the figures and cut out the smaller one by sawing the coating along the lines connecting the corners. Unscrew the resulting four strips along the leaning board. Do this so that they almost reach the vertical. Then the roofing will tightly press against the wall of the chimney fixture.

Cover the remaining unprotected triangular gaps between the strips at the corners of the chimney inside with mortar, leaning bricks against them. Do the same outside.

Placement of the chimney above the roof

At the level of the roofing, begin to mount the otter. The instruction says that it is more difficult to lay it down than fluff. The building must be expanded carefully and gradually. Taking into account the slope. When laying a brick chimney with your own hands, it is required to increase the stability of the structure. Therefore, wall steel plates into the otter and fix them to the rafters.

File the ends of the blocks. So you reduce the gap between the otter and the roof. You can do it differently: put sheet metal between the bottom of the pipe element and the roof lining. It will not allow precipitation to seep onto the rafters and into the attic.

Installation of the chimney is completed by arranging the head and installing a deflector on it.

Conclusion

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Laying a brick pipe with your own hands is a complex and time-consuming process. Before him, it is necessary to carry out calculations and draw up a diagram of the structure. When laying, you must strictly adhere to it and follow all the rules of construction.

The traditional brick chimney for a gas boiler is quite in demand, despite the many shortcomings and low thermal performance. Despite the apparent simplicity of the design, during the construction of a brick channel, it is extremely important to adhere to the existing norms set forth in the SNiP. The safety of operation and the efficiency of gas equipment depend on compliance with the requirements.

Is a brick chimney allowed or not with a gas boiler

Existing regulations allow the use of brick chimneys for gas boilers. At the same time, the conditions that the smoke exhaust system must comply with are separately stipulated. If violations are found, the gas service inspector may refuse to put the heating equipment into operation.

The laying of the channel must be carried out by a qualified bricklayer. It is better to refuse from the installation of a chimney for a gas boiler made of bricks with your own hands, without special building skills. As practice shows, only an experienced stove-maker can take into account all the nuances associated with the calculation and subsequent installation of the structure.

Chimney requirements for a brick gas boiler

The main purpose of the chimney is the safe removal of combustion products from the boiler. The essence of all requirements is to prevent possible ignition, as well as carbon monoxide poisoning during the operation of heating appliances. In particular, the SNiP and PB indicate:

From time to time, new requirements for a brick chimney for a gas boiler appear. Even before starting construction, find out about the existing standards in the Gas Service. Up-to-date information will avoid unnecessary costs and facilitate the commissioning of the structure.

Mono-brick chimneys for gas boilers

There are several options for brick chimneys, among which the mono-design has the worst thermal performance. Under the constant influence of an aggressive environment, the brick collapses, the seams crack and lose their tightness. For this reason, after 5-6 years of operation, it will be necessary to repair the pipe and replace the damaged sections.

During construction, the following conditions are met:

The disadvantage of a brick smoke exhaust system is a short service life and high requirements for the quality of the masonry. It is difficult to properly lay out the chimney yourself, so it is better to use the services of a qualified bricklayer.

Combined brick smoke exhaust systems for gas boilers

Combined systems are distinguished by better thermal performance than a conventional brick chimney. The main feature of the design is the presence of a core made of steel, ceramics or asbestos cement. Thanks to the combined installation scheme, the disadvantages inherent in brick channels are almost completely leveled.

When choosing combined systems, it is necessary to pay attention to the technical parameters of the core, which ultimately determine the performance of the chimney.

Brick and stainless steel chimneys

The existing schemes for the construction and restoration of existing chimneys provide for the possibility of using three main modifications that differ in the material of the internal contour. The consumer is offered one of three options:

Before commissioning, it is mandatory to line the old brick chimneys for use with gas boiler equipment.

The combination of brick and ceramic pipes

This design is one of the best in its characteristics. The ceramic is resistant to acids and can withstand temperatures up to 1000°C. The ceramic pipe has good traction performance, quickly warms up and enters the operating mode.

A freestanding brick chimney with an internal ceramic pipe for connecting a gas boiler is used as an alternative.

Problems with a brick chimney with a ceramic core are extremely rare. The design is distinguished by a long service life and the resistance of the ceramic walls of the pipe to burnout. With proper installation, the chimney will last at least 50 years.

Chimney made of asbestos-cement pipe lined with brick

A chimney made of asbestos pipes, lined with bricks, cannot compete in its characteristics with stainless steel and ceramics. Asbestos-cement systems have gained popularity due to their low cost and availability of the material. Along with this, pipes have several significant drawbacks:

• Abundant production of condensate- an asbestos-cement pipe, even inside a brick, cools quickly, which leads to a large amount of condensation. As a result, dampness of the chimney and destruction of the structure often occur.
• Low aerodynamic performance– asbestos pipes cannot be used for condensing boilers and gas equipment with a closed combustion chamber.

In terms of its thermal and aerodynamic properties, as well as the ratio of cost and durability, the leading position is occupied by a brick chimney shaft with a stainless steel pipe inside.

How to make a brick chimney for a gas boiler

If the existing SNiP and GOST are not observed, the danger of a brick chimney with gas heating increases. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of building material, masonry mortar, thermal insulation.

It is important to prevent the rapid formation of condensate and provide for the possibility of regular maintenance of the smoke exhaust system.

What kind of brick is the chimney for a gas boiler made of?

To use the chimney from gas appliances, ceramic bricks are used, made from baked clay. The material retains heat well and is able to withstand temperature extremes. It is strictly forbidden to make a chimney from silicate brick.

Any ceramic brick is not suitable for a smoke exhaust system, but only a certain brand. Moreover, for the manufacture of the outer and inner parts, material with different markings is used.

• Fire resistance - the material is assigned a class "A" or "B". The first is designed for heating up to 1400°C, the second 1350°C.
• Strength - bricks of the M 250 or M 200 brand are needed for masonry. High density leads to an increase in heating time, therefore, it is not recommended to use building material marked M300 and higher.
• frost resistance- the chimney is made of solid ceramic bricks with a resistance factor of F300.

The wall thickness of the brick pipe should be 15 cm (half-brick masonry). When laying, the geometry and right angles of the structure are strictly observed.

The chimney can be made of facing bricks, but the material that can withstand frost does not tolerate heating / cooling. After several heating seasons, the surface begins to crack and crumble. When condensation occurs, the facing material loses its strength.

It is correct to make a brick chimney for a gas boiler in a private house, from solid brick, class "A" or "B", with strength M 250 and frost resistance F300.

What masonry mixture is used in the construction

The composition of the mixture for laying a brick chimney pipe is selected depending on which part of the structure is being built. As practice shows, the use of ready-made refractory and heat-resistant masonry mixtures is optimal. The resulting solution is acid-resistant and able to withstand negative atmospheric phenomena.

If there is no financial opportunity to purchase a ready-made adhesive composition, the mixture is made independently.

• clay mortar- is heat-resistant, used for the construction of a structure located in the house. Clay is soaked by water, so the mixture is not suitable for the outer parts of the chimney.
• cement composition– it is necessary to use cement mortar for parts of the chimney located outside the building. To increase the strength and give the solution acid-resistant characteristics, special additives are added to the finished mixture. The same solution is used in the manufacture of the foundation of the chimney.

A brick chimney is laid out on a clay or cement-sand mortar, depending on which part of the structure is being built. Ready mixtures are used for the entire smoke exhaust system, regardless of location, relative to gas equipment and the building.

The ready-made composition of the solutions includes all the necessary additives and plasticizers, which allows you to make a perfectly even seam without leaving voids. The only drawback is the high cost of masonry.

How to insulate a brick chimney

The need to insulate a brick pipe is primarily associated with the need to reduce the amount of condensate produced. The heating of the walls above the dew point is carried out faster, which leads to a decrease in the volume of moisture that falls out.

The technology for insulating an external brick chimney is as follows:

• First you need to repair the brick pipe. Damaged areas are replaced. The influxes from the masonry mortar are removed, the pipe is primed.
• To align the pipe, and remove the cracks and chips that have appeared, you will need to plaster the brick surface. Works are carried out on lighthouses. The solution is allowed to dry. It is forbidden to heat the chimney during this period.
• The brick pipe is thermally insulated - the thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm for the outer cladding, it is attached to a special adhesive, after which the plates are fixed with anchors. A reinforcing mesh is pulled from above, embedding it in a layer of glue.
• Finishing work in progress.

The material used to insulate brick gas chimneys can be any basalt thermal insulation. Stone wool does not ignite even when exposed directly to open flames.

To insulate a brick pipe in an unheated attic, mineral wool is used. The material costs about half as much, and in the absence of precipitation, it performs heat-insulating functions well.

Rooftop chimney

Most often, the rules associated with the passage of roofing, installation and cladding of the roofing part are violated. The rules for the passage of a brick chimney through a wooden floor when heated by a gas boiler are as follows:

• When passing through slabs or roofing, fire breaks are observed. SNiP 01/41/2003 states that from an uninsulated chimney to combustible structures there should be at least 38 cm. For insulated pipes, the gaps are reduced to 5 cm. The space is filled with basalt insulation.
• For penetration, a special box is made, installed under the roofing.
• The head of the chimney is insulated with basalt slabs, lined with ceramic tiles on top or lined with facade plaster.
• The height of the pipe is calculated depending on the distance from the ridge. There is a general recommendation that the brickwork in a private house be higher than the top level of the roof. In some cases, in accordance with this instruction, it will be necessary to rebuild the existing brick chimney for the installation of a modern gas boiler.
• The head of the pipe is covered with a deflector to increase the traction force.

The connection of a gas boiler to an existing brick chimney is carried out only if the pipe height is sufficient and after the system is necessarily lined.

How to prevent condensation and how to remove moisture

The main factors in the formation of condensate are the following reasons:

Elimination of condensate moisture is carried out using a special condensate trap that hermetically closes the chimney channel.

Repair of a brick chimney pipe from a gas boiler

Reconstruction of an old chimney may be required in several cases:

• Fault detected during regular masonry inspection.
• Re-equipment of the smoke exhaust system, allowing the use of conventional brick oven chimneys for modern gas boilers.

Before carrying out repair work, the cause that led to the destruction of the brickwork is determined and eliminated.

Why does a brick collapse on a gas chimney?

The frequency of checking brick chimneys is at least once a year, before the onset of the heating season. Inspection shows the presence or absence of mortar falling out of the seams, brick cracking and other violations. The causes of destruction are:

Do I need to line a brick chimney and with what?

A chimney liner is required in the following cases:

To avoid the destruction of the structure of the brick smoke exhaust system in the future (average service life is 6 years), sleeves are carried out. A stainless steel pipe or corrugation is installed in the chimney.

Additional sealing of chimneys in brick walls for individual gas boilers is required only if ducts designed for ventilation are used.

How to clean a brick pipe with gas heating

You can clean the pipes yourself, which, as practice shows, often leads to the destruction of the brickwork. Without a certain qualification, it is not recommended to clean the chimneys, since the internal walls of the channel are destroyed during the work.

Alternatively, you can call a specialist for cleaning. Work on average will cost from 600 to 3000 rubles. The time taken is from 3-6 hours, depending on the degree of pollution.

Advantages and disadvantages of connecting a gas boiler to a brick chimney

Brick chimney channels have certain pros and cons. The advantages include:

1. Low cost with the possibility of using an existing pipe.
2. Possibility of connecting a gas boiler with an open combustion chamber to a brick chimney.
3. Availability of building and finishing materials.

The disadvantages of the design are:

1. Short service life.
2. High requirements for the quality of masonry and the qualifications of the worker carrying out construction work.
3. The need for insulation.
4. Many restrictions - making a gas chimney in an external brick wall, using an old channel without a sleeve, connecting the system to condensing boilers and equipment with a closed combustion chamber, is prohibited.

Technical characteristics, in particular thrust indicators, aerodynamic properties, short service life, cast doubt on the feasibility of installing a gas boiler with a brick smoke exhaust system. To connect, select or .

A chimney is an indispensable element in the construction of stove heating. This design is needed to remove the products of combustion of wood, coal, gas and other materials burned in the furnace.

There are different types of chimneys, differing in pipe material and cross-sectional shape, but despite the emergence of new high-tech materials, the square (rarely rectangular) brick chimney remains the most popular.

There are 3 types of chimney designs. They differ in the way they exit the furnace, the number of connected heaters, and so on.

Each type has its pros and cons in the application, as well as some installation features.

Wall-mounted chimneys

Wall-mounted chimneys are the most common type of construction. In this case, the pipe is simply an extension of the stove, going up through the roof. The advantages of such a system:

• Compact and rational use of space. In any case, the space above the stove would be empty (due to safety requirements), and the chimney is the only element allowed in this area.
• Ease of installation. The design of a brick chimney is very simple and does not require any skills (the skill of laying bricks has probably already been obtained during the construction of the furnace).

The disadvantage of a wall-mounted chimney is that it is mounted for one specific appliance. If there are several stoves in the house, each will have to build its own chimney or use a different type of design.

Indigenous chimneys

In this case, the chimney is a common riser, to which several heaters can be connected using metal pipes, and the stoves can be located both in different rooms and on different floors.

Of the disadvantages - additional space is required not only for installing a chimney, but also for supply pipes. Also, quite complex cross-sectional calculations for each element of such a design in order to ensure normal traction.

Wall chimneys

The chimney got its name because it is always located near the main wall (internal or external). If the chimney is located against an external wall, then most of its structure is on the outside of the house and requires an additional foundation. When installed indoors, the chimney must run inside the wall.

The advantage of a wall chimney is that several appliances can be connected to it on different floors, but they must be strictly one above the other.

Also, the internal wall chimney is a kind of additional source of heat, since the hot pipe gives off heat in all directions, including rooms adjacent to the main wall. True, the efficiency of such heating is minimal and is simply an additional advantage of a wall chimney.

The main disadvantage is the high cost of materials and the need for additional space.

How a brick chimney works

A brick chimney consists of several sections, some of which are indoors, and some are outdoors.

The design features are such that when passing through the attic floor, the pipe walls should be as thick as possible in order to reduce the risk of fire in the truss system. At the same time, going beyond the roof, the structure of the chimney itself must cover the hole in the roof so that atmospheric precipitation does not penetrate into it.

1. In most cases, the chimney pipe is a continuation of the stove, i.e. on top of it, the required number of rows of bricks is completed to the attic floor.
2. The next element is fluff. In the fluff, the width of the pipe is 2-3 times its usual size while maintaining a constant internal section. The thick walls of the pipe are a kind of buffer that protects the flammable elements of the attic system from contact with the heat passing through the pipe. At this level, the air is still too hot due to the close proximity of the furnace.
3. Next comes the riser - a piece of pipe from the attic floor to the top of the roof. It is a brick pipe in its usual section.
4. At the place where the pipe exits the roof, according to technology, there should be an “otter”, but it is often neglected. The element is similar to fluff, but is installed in such a way that a brick peak is formed above the roof, repeating the angle of the roof. An otter is needed in order to close the hole through which the pipe exits from precipitation. Usually, a special apron (metal or other material) is placed around the otter to provide better protection.
5. Further, the neck of the pipe rises above the roof - the external analogue of the riser.
6. The whole structure ends with a head, which is a small visor. It is rather a decorative traditional element of the pipe, since its protective functions are minimal. For this reason, the head is also often neglected.
7. A metal cap is installed on top of the head, which protects the chimney from rain and debris getting inside.

Most of the problems of unstable operation of a brick oven are usually associated with unbalanced draft in the chimney. It is especially important to correctly calculate and fold the design of the chimney for a massive stove, designed to use low-calorie fuel - firewood, pellets, peat or sawdust briquettes. The draft, and hence the rate of combustion of the fuel, depends on the temperature of the exhaust gases and the thickness of the chimney wall. The faster the wall of the chimney pipe warms up, the more stable and even the stove in the bath begins to buzz.

How to choose and calculate a brick chimney

Before making a chimney, you will have to rack your brains and calculate the dimensions of the future channel, look at literature and projects, maybe look at your neighbors or acquaintances - see their version of the chimney for the house and for the stove in the bath. No matter how smart advice or calculations are, there is nothing to replace practical experience.

The operation of the chimney of a stove for a bathhouse and a residential building are similar, but have specific differences. For a bath, a stove is built with the fastest possible acceleration of heat and warming up the room; for a house, the economy of the stove and the ability to flare up in any weather are important.

Before laying the chimney for the stove in the bath, you will need to carefully consider a few basic questions:

• Calculate the power of the firebox and determine the maximum and minimum height of the pipe, the exit of brickwork on the roof;
• Determine the location of the chimney in the structure of the bathhouse, prepare a place for the foundation and the node for passing the pipe through the ceiling and roof;
• Choose a chimney design with minimal resistance to the movement of hot gases. This option will allow you to quickly “disperse” even slightly damp firewood into the flame.

Important! In addition, the chimney must be easy to maintain and clean the channel from soot. Therefore, it will be necessary to provide for an inspection entrance in the design, with a size not less than the cross section of the chimney.

Most often, it is installed at a level of 40-50 cm above the bundle - the junction of the furnace furnace with a free-standing chimney column. Such an entrance should be blocked by a special block - a brick plug, and hermetically sealed with a metal hatch on screw fasteners. A properly made inspection entry has practically no effect on the level of traction, but makes it possible to clean the channel without much effort. At the same time, under the size of the revision, you can make a ruff for cleaning chimneys with your own hands.

The simplest chimney for a brick oven

Most often, the owners choose the easiest way - to make a brick oven and chimney in the house or in the bath. Is it always justified?

When is a brick chimney needed?

If the stove in the bathhouse or house is built of brick, it would be logical to make the chimney well with brickwork. For large stoves in a house with a constant heat load, a brick chimney will be the simplest and most durable system for venting gas. Brick walls accumulate and retain heat well, which allows you to light the stove every 10-12 hours without any problems.

For gas-fired brick ovens, sauna stoves, hobs, the brick chimney option is optional. For a gas burner during the heating period, the main thing will be a arch and a furnace furnace correctly constructed of bricks. For a sauna stove, it is important to ensure rapid heating with the possibility of slow afterburning of a wood-burning bookmark within 5-6 hours. A brick chimney is perfect for these purposes, but due to the heavy weight, a solid foundation will be required to a depth of at least 70-80 cm.

Important! To thoroughly fix a heavy brick chimney pipe, you will need a powerful foundation and additional chimney fastening, as in a residential building.

In this case, the stability of heavy and high brickwork can be ensured if the upper part of the brick pipe is tied with stretch marks to the walls, ceiling and roof frame.

In some cases, the use of a brick pipe does not make sense at all. For example, for a small bath from a wooden beam with a strip foundation for a stove and a brick chimney, most of the floor will need to be poured under the foundation, with a volume of at least two cubes of concrete with rubble filling. The walls of the house and the frame on the roof will simply not be able to hold the high and heavy structure of the chimney without a meter-long foundation.

For a brick cooking oven, it is better to make only an overhead pipe, it is recommended to assemble the rest of the channel instead of brickwork from sheet metal with external thermal insulation. For the brewing scheme, high temperature and smooth draft adjustment are more important.

Brick chimney construction

The power of the furnace is directly related to the size of the cross section of the chimney channel:

1. For small heater stoves, a square section with a rib of 120-150 mm will suffice. Most often, this is a channel that has four bricks in a row, so often the size of such a section is called a four;
2. For a bath of 15-20 cubic meters or a fireplace, you will need a chimney with a section of the size of a "five" or 125x250 mm. When laying in a row, five bricks are placed;
3. For Russian stoves and large sauna heaters, the “sixth” size is used with a channel of 250x250 mm. This is a very large section, and should only be used for low-set pipes or a very large furnace firebox.

Structurally, the laying of the chimney is no different from the laying of the stove itself. The only area that requires the hands and skill of a professional is the overhead pipe. In this place, it is necessary to correctly perform the dressing of the laid brick. For a simple chimney tower structure, the pipe can be made of alloy metal and connected to the main brick duct, as shown in the figure.

What is the height of the pipe? There are certain recommendations for the installation and layout of the height of the brick pipe and the ridge of the roof of the house. If the pipe is located at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, it is raised to a height of up to half a meter above the highest point of the roof, at a distance of up to three meters the pipe cut can go level with the roof ridge, everything that is further away should not be 0.2-0.3 m below the ridge.

They try to raise the total height of the chimney to a level of 5 meters, this allows for a "cold" air flow in the region of 1-2 m 3 / hour, which is quite enough to ignite the stove. Higher pipes will make the oven uneconomical.

Conventionally, brick chimney masonry can be divided into two parts - up to broadening, or fluff, and above it. The fluff is a thickening or strapping of bricks that allows you to fix a very unstable high structure in the ceiling system of the house. Despite the obvious inefficiency of fluff, it should not be neglected, except for the possibility of attaching to ceiling beams. This element reinforces the relatively thin brick pipe and prevents the development of cracks due to transverse wind loading.

In addition to the fluff, the chimney pipe has an otter and a head. The first element is a belt or thickening on the top of the chimney pipe located above the roof. You can not do it, it works like an umbrella over the junction of the roof to the brickwork. The head can be made of steel or brick. Both elements do not particularly affect the operation of the furnace, therefore, in simple designs, they can be replaced by a decorative casing and a cap that buries the cut from water and snow.

When choosing the design of the chimney, give preference to simple and reliable vertical pipes. They are unpretentious in work and do not demand frequent service.

If you choose the right mortar materials and masonry bricks, keep the vertical above the stove, then this option will serve you faithfully for many years. Such a chimney is quite simple to set up and modify in case of changes in the design of the furnace.

Materials used

For masonry, you can take high-quality red brick of the M100 brand, without cracks and signs of warping. Fireclay is usually used in overhead pipes and in places where the flow of gases is reversed. The temperature at the inlet to the pipe can rarely rise above 800 ° C, therefore, in most cases, masonry from the base to the head is made with ordinary brick. Another thing is coal or combined stoves, in which case the lower tier of bricks is supplemented with inserts of dinas or fireclay.

You can not use silicate and clinker bricks, materials with the addition of organic fibers, natural stone fillers, they all crack under the influence of temperature, and silicate bricks, even at low temperatures, are susceptible to corrosion due to the large amount of carbon dioxide.

Metal chimney for stove

A fairly large amount of work in the manufacture of a brick chimney, especially the upper parts of the structure, forces the owners to look for alternative options, for example, from a metal or asbestos-cement pipe. Despite the outward appeal of the idea, in practice, metal or asbestos is used to install the top of the chimney. On the lower part of the riser, transition sections made of alloyed steel from the furnace to the flue pipe can be installed.

Pipes made of alloyed cast iron are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics. Unlike brickwork, a cast iron chimney is not subject to shrinkage or cracking of the material. It perfectly picks up heat and, due to the high thermal conductivity of the material, provides a very even and stable draft in the channel. For a bathhouse or a cooking stove, such a chimney is more interesting than heavy brickwork. The service life of such a pipe can easily reach several tens of years.

But the cast-iron channel, 150 mm in diameter and 4-5 m long, is very sensitive to the correct setting of thermal gaps on the chimney mount. Due to the high coefficient of thermal expansion in case of hard pinching of the pipe surface, the metal can crack even at the first attempt to warm up the furnace.

A freshly built brick chimney requires no less gentle and careful handling during drying and sedimentation processes in the masonry. During the first week, only paper and wood chips are burnt in the canal. After a couple of weeks, after the solution has set, the temperature is slowly raised to the operating temperature and, having closed all the holes and shutters, they are also slowly cooled. If there are no problems, you can proceed to normal use.