Roof passage for pipes without thermal insulation. Adjoining the roof to the chimney pipe: features of the device for adjoining the roof to the chimney pipe with video instructions

When installing a chimney in a house or bath, you need not only to fix it correctly, connect it and calculate the aerodynamics for good traction. It is essential to ensure competent chimney passage through the roof- so that in the future there are no leaks in this place and the rafters are not charred.

And here it is necessary not only to make a neat hole in the coating, but also to seal the penetration as much as possible, select sealants and at the same time maintain the aesthetic appearance of the entire roof. There are really a lot of subtleties and nuances!

First of all, even at the stage of building a roof, you need to design the exact location of the chimney. For this, there are certain rules that regulate the height and location of chimneys on the roof:

Today in Russia, the passage of the chimney through the roof of the house is carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003. They are a little outdated, but it is they that guide the supervisory services, and therefore this document is important.

Be careful also with such a fashionable combination of a chimney and other pipes, ventilation and sewer, into one large box. Sometimes this is how architects want to reduce the amount of unnecessary visual details on the roof.

The result is huge boxes on the roof, which sometimes have up to 6 meters in length and up to 1.5 in width. Moreover, it is much more difficult to correctly bypass them with roofing elements than the same 6-8 pipes, but separately.

When you have determined the place for the future chimney, then it's time to prepare the truss system for installation. And this already depends on how wide the chimney itself is and what shape it is.

Metal apron and flexible bands for rectangular chimneys

So, let's start with the traditional, albeit rather outdated version - a square brick chimney.

After all, its installation, starting from a special separate foundation to sealing the joint with the roof, is quite complicated. But at the same time, of course, the quality is still not guaranteed, because a lot depends on the selection of materials and the professionalism of the stove-maker.

Designing and fixing the chimney

An ordinary brick chimney has a regular rectangular section, which is not always good for internal aerodynamics. At the same time, more modern metal and ceramic chimneys are much easier to maintain and install.

In any case, the chimney is located as close as possible to the ridge, which reduces the snow load on the pipe itself and reduces the volume of water that will flow around it. And, therefore, the risk of leaks will be much less.

Usually a rectangular pipe is placed along the direction of the slope:

In total, with rafters in such a place, you need to do the following. Here's how to install the apron:

• Step 1. First of all, use the lower abutment strips, which are applied to the chimney wall and mark the line in the upper part.
• Step 2. A grinder is making a strobe along this line.
• Step 3. Next, remove the dust so that small particles of cement and sand do not get on the surface of the roof waterproofing. It's just that over time they will turn into an abrasive that can damage the roofing material.
• Step 4. If the chimney does not fit in the hole between the rafters, and you have to cut more than one rafter, then the outer rafters must be strengthened. To do this, they are made paired.
• Step 5. If the pipe runs straight through the ridge, then the ridge run is installed on both sides of the pipe, and the rafters of the upper part are already supported on the crossbars.
• Step 6. If the chimney is removed from the ridge, then place one edge of the apron on the chimney, and hide the other end under the roofing material. If the pipe is close, then put a protective apron right under the ridge beam and fix it with special elements, and then treat it with a moisture-resistant sealant.

Here is the layout of the rafters:

But, using additional bars in the rafter system, remember that wood and polymer materials are sensitive to high temperatures. Therefore, SNiPs indicate the minimum distance between the chimney pipe and the elements of the roofing pie - at least 130 mm.

If, in addition, you use a ceramic pipe without insulation, then this clearance should be at least 250 mm. And right at the point of passage through the roof, the pipe should have a retreat - a special thickening.

In addition to support bars, today many chimney manufacturers recommend using special mounting kits:

Myself the passage of the chimney through the roof also implies the use such a special attachment, which is called a comfrey. It is installed directly on the chimney pipe as a decorative and functional element.

And to ensure the necessary traction, the height of the pipe must be at least 5 meters from the grate to the mouth. In this case, the mouth of the chimney must be reliably protected from precipitation. To do this, there are such special items on sale as deflectors, an umbrella and other nozzles, including metal mesh traps.

We go further. If the pipe is adequately less than one meter wide and falls straight into the valley, then it is positioned so that one of the upper corners of the bases is as close as possible to the middle of the valley. In such a solution, you will need non-standard additional elements.

If the width of the chimney is more than 80 cm, then a small gable roof is created from the side of the ridge - a slope. Moreover, it is important to make it from the same material as the roof itself, although sometimes it makes sense to give preference to metal.

Just remember that the slope itself is a problematic element that creates two valleys on the roof at once (and valleys are always the weakest points). In such a design, it is difficult to lay heat, steam and waterproofing, as well as to provide the desired level of ventilation.

Also, a rather wide chimney usually prevents the ventilation of the insulated roof, and additional ventilation elements must be installed next to it before and after the pipe. For example, aerators or ventilation tiles.

Also, the lower the chimney is in the valley, the more snow will accumulate behind it. Therefore, it will be necessary to install reliable snow retainers above the pipe level. But avoid placing the chimney close to the roof windows, otherwise the combustion products will constantly be drawn into the under-roof space.

And, finally, most often the fact that the chimney pipe is installed incorrectly is already detected at the stage of assembling the roof truss system. At this stage, it is still allowed to move the chimney, if possible. For example, if it has not yet been laid out of brick, although this is more an exception to the rule than a common practice.

Sealing the passage through different types of roofing

Here, for example, is how a chimney is carried through a roof made of composite tiles:

This is an instruction for the passage of a square chimney through a soft roof:

As you can see, an apron with special accessories protects the chimney from any leaks. In addition, today for natural roofing, like ceramic or cement-sand, very convenient flexible adjoining tapes are produced. They are made on the basis of lead or aluminum, and an adhesive layer is applied to the inside.

As for the metal roof, special elements are also sold for it. Although you still have to tinker:

By the way, usually in the installation instructions for the selected roofing material there is always a detailed explanation of exactly how to bypass the chimney, and there is always the opportunity to purchase the necessary strips from the same manufacturer that produced the roofing you like.

Roof penetrations and chimney pipes with round section

Metal round systems always need additional fixation. Such elements must be fastened with crimp clamps. For every two meters of such a chimney, a bracket is installed that fastens them to the wall, and for a tee - another support bracket. Also, special brackets are used to fasten steel pipes.

The chimney passage assembly itself depends on its cross-section and shape, the slope of the roof, as well as on the type of roofing material used:

Here is a very detailed video clip of the output of the chimney with a circular section on the roof:

Ready-made soft penetrations for any designs

A round pipe is a little more difficult to bypass than a square one. But for this, roofing is being produced today. chimney duct in the form universal order book or master flush:

What is such a passage? This is a special nozzle for the chimney in the form of an elastic material made of silicone or EPDM rubber. Both options tolerate temperatures well from -74 to +260°C. The penetration itself rests on a steel sheet well fixed to the roof.

Pull this collar onto a round pipe with a soapy solution, and then coat it with roofing sealant under the flange. This penetration is good because it can take any shape, and therefore it does not matter at what angle of the slope it is mounted. The whole process is much faster and more accurate than in the case of a brick chimney.

So, this elastic apron must be attached directly to the passage and pressed with a metal sheet in the form of a circle or rectangle (make holes in it for self-tapping screws in advance).

Here's what a competent chimney through the roof looks like in practice:

Metal fittings for rigid fixation

In the case of arranging chimneys on a roof without relief (not always), instead of flexible passage products, a metal passage pipe is used. These are also finished products, painted or made of galvanized steel:

Such branch pipes are made mainly from alloy steel of standard sizes and for standard roof slope angles.

Here the instructions are slightly different:

• Step 1. Make a suitable hole in the roof. To do this, use a marker and a suitable tool - a grinder, a jigsaw or scissors.
• Step 2. Carefully remove the insulation from the hole and saw off the grate that will interfere.
• Step 3. Fasten a sheet of fire retardant material to the inside of the roof so that there is a margin of 15 cm in a circle for each side.
• Step 4 Route the chimney and secure it with a clamp.
• Step 5. Put on the passage element and fix it on the roof surface with screws and special sealant.
• Step 6. Continue to increase the pipe segments to the desired height - until the pipe itself is at least a meter above the ridge.

If you want to insulate the entire structure at the point where the pipe passes, then use only a non-combustible heat insulator, like stone wool. It can simply be stuffed between the wooden structural elements and the chimney itself. It is needed so that condensation does not occur in this place.

Round chimney pipes also tend to complicate the whole process in that they have bends in their path and sometimes they even have to be carried through the walls, and only then through the roof:

Pass-Through Device for Dissimilar Materials

There is also such a practice as passing a pipe through the roof using a through box. This is beneficial when the roof itself is made of different types of materials, which have different resistance to fire.

In this case, a box of the required dimensions is made from a fire-resistant material, a pipe is passed through it so that at least 15 cm remains to the walls, and the space is covered with expanded clay.

Here is an example of organizing such a box:

When you installed the chimney on the roof, did you have any difficulties?

Heating appliances are a necessary attribute of any residential building, providing a comfortable temperature for life during the cold period, which lasts 9 months in most regions of Russia. However, additional comfort comes with a certain degree of fire risk. Therefore, special attention is paid to the chimney, through which smoke and combustion products are removed from the heat generators and removed to the outside of the room. This article will tell you how to bring the chimney through the roof in compliance with all safety requirements.

As a rule, the work of a stove-maker or an installer of gas equipment does not include chimney installation services; the homeowner must provide the passage of the chimney through the roof on his own. The imaginary simplicity of the task makes home craftsmen refuse the services of professional roofers. However, poor-quality output of the pipe to the roof threatens with serious consequences:

1. Through the leaky passage of the pipe, moisture seeps into the masonry, gradually destroying it.
2. High humidity inside stimulates the spread of molds and fungus. Spores of some types of fungus are dangerous for the human condition, so it is not safe to use an infected tube. In advanced cases, both the chimney and the stove masonry are subject to replacement.
3. The penetration of water into the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof reduces the thermal insulation properties of the insulation by half. Moreover, after the thermal insulation layer has dried, its characteristics will never return to the previous level.
4. Even the truss system suffers from poor-quality removal of the pipe through the roof, since moisture penetrating into it through a leaky passage leads to decay and destruction.
5. Slots near the pipe passage disrupt the normal air circulation inside the attic, leading to increased energy losses and heating costs.

By the way, not only stove chimneys are brought to the roof, but pipes from gas boilers and ventilation outlets are also placed there, for the installation of which they use the same methods.

The choice of the location of the chimney outlet and its height

The first condition for a high-quality outlet of the pipe through the roof is the correct placement of the chimney on the roof. The functioning of the entire heating system depends on this factor, therefore, in order to avoid errors, installation is carried out in accordance with construction and fire safety requirements:

• Chimney pipes are placed in the immediate vicinity of the highest point of the roof, at a distance of 1-1.5 m.
• The recommended height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge to ensure normal stove draft is 0.5-1.5 m.
• The greater the height of the chimney, the greater the traction force in the furnace or gas boiler it provides.
• The lower the chimney is located on the slope, the longer it must be in order for the recommended height of the chimney above the roof to meet the recommendations.
• Parameters such as the height of the chimney, the diameter of the section are selected according to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the thermogenerating device or on the basis of a calculation.
• The chimney consists mainly of vertical sections of pipes, the length of horizontal segments should not exceed 1 m.
• The outlet is placed between the elements of the truss system so as not to violate its integrity.

The main difficulty in passing the pipe through the roof is that during the passage of smoke, the temperature of the walls rises, which poses a risk of ignition of combustible materials of the truss system.

Elastic penetration

Most often, in private construction, they are faced with the installation of metal pipes of circular cross section. To ensure the tightness of the passage, use a special device - an elastic penetration. This product is made of high-strength silicone or rubber, having the shape of a funnel with a wide flange in the form of a square or circle, called an apron. Elastic penetration, due to its properties, takes any shape, adjusting to the angle of inclination of the ramp. It withstands extreme high or low temperatures, exposure to harsh chemicals and has a wide palette.

When purchasing an elastic penetration, they are guided by the diameter of the pipe and the color of the roofing material. Universal models, in the form of a stepped pyramid, are suitable for any size, adjustment is carried out by trimming the penetration to the desired level. Installing an elastic apron on the roof is very simple, you need to put it on the chimney passage, apply a metal circle with holes for fasteners, process the joint with a fire-resistant sealant and fix it with a screwdriver. For roofs with steep slopes, a special type of plastic penetrations is used with a given flange mounting angle.

Metal spigot

In hardware stores, you can find another type of penetration for round pipes - a metal pipe through. It is used to pass the chimney through a roof that does not have a relief. The prefabricated alloy steel spigots have a standard roof angle, which is matched to the roof slope. To complete the installation, you must:

Cut a suitable hole in the roof. To do this, using a marker, markings are applied to the surface of the roof. Depending on the roofing material, cutting is performed with a grinder or sharp scissors, stepping back 1-2 cm inside the circle.

• Remove the waterproofing and thermal insulation material from the hole made, freeing the passage for the chimney. If necessary, remove the elements of the crate by carefully sawing them off.
• On the underside of the roof, fix a sheet of fire-resistant material with a hole of the required diameter of such an area that there is a margin of 15-20 cm on each side of the chimney.
• Push the pipe module into the hole, dock it with the laid chimney, tightening the junction with a clamp.
• Put the outlet pipe on the pipe, fixing it on the slope surface with fire-resistant sealant and self-tapping screws with a rubber cap.
• Attach the pipe with new segments so that the height of the chimney reaches 0.5-1.5 m above the level of the ridge.

Some craftsmen prefer to use a different method - they pre-solder the chimney pipe into the passage pipe, cover it with thermally insulating material, for example, stone wool, and only then this design is mounted in the passage.

Conclusion of rectangular and square pipes

Made of brick, most often square or rectangular, so other methods are used to bring it to the roof. This task is for an experienced kiln master, and not a home craftsman, because a special masonry technique is used in the process. When the chimney approaches the roof, a hole of the appropriate size is cut out in it with an allowance of 2-5 cm, through which the stove-maker leads out. Although heat-resistant brick perfectly retains heat inside the pipe, asbestos sheets are chipped from the inside of the passage to protect the rafters from fire.

A soft waterproofing tape on a lead or aluminum base is attached to a brick pipe using a metal profile, the lower edge of which is fixed to the roof with a sealant. After that, the unsightly waterproofing is closed with a special decorative apron. It consists of four additional parts and is installed under the roofing material, making the passage neat and well protected.

Output box installation

The roofing device consists of layers of several materials, the refractory qualities of which are expressed in different ways. While most roofing materials are non-flammable and non-combustible, truss systems traditionally made from timber do not. In order to safely lead the chimney through any material, a passage box is mounted:

• First of all, a box is purchased or made from a refractory material, for example, metal or asbestos. The size of the box is selected in accordance with the cross section of the pipe, so that there is at least 15 cm between their walls.
• After making the hole, a box is installed in it, the upper edge is aligned with the level of the roof slope.
• The chimney is led out through the hole in the duct. The edges of the waterproofing film and vapor barrier are glued to the pipe using a fire-resistant sealant and reinforced tape.
• Expanded clay is poured inside the box or stone wool is laid to insulate the chimney. Thermal insulating materials are placed taking into account the fact that they should not impede air circulation.
• Outside, the chimney pipe, depending on the shape and roofing material, is finished with an elastic penetration, a decorative apron or a metal pipe.

A well-made chimney outlet does not spoil the appearance of the roof, does not allow moisture to pass through and is safe from the point of view of fire safety standards. Follow the correct technology for passing tubes through ceilings to protect yourself and your property.

Video instruction

The exit point of the smoke channel through the roof is a complex structural unit. What are the requirements for its implementation, as well as for the height and location of the part of the pipe protruding above the roof?

Let's trust the experts

Determining the height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge

As for the height of the chimney, the regulatory document (SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning") states that at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from the ridge, the pipe should rise above it by at least 50 cm; at 1.5-3 m - be not lower than the ridge, and at a distance of more than 3 m - not lower than the line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10 ° to the horizon. But there are no clear regulations regarding the location of the chimney on the roof. What do experts say about this?

The basic postulate: the closer the pipe to the ridge, the better. In this case, the head of the pipe (that is, that part of it that protrudes above the roof, which means it is in the cold zone) will be very small; thus, the likelihood of condensation in the chimney in winter is reduced. The condensate containing aggressive substances that falls inside, at the very mouth or on the protective and decorative umbrella of the pipe, is by no means harmless. It can cause poor draft in a fireplace or boiler, damage to the finishing material of the head and roof, and even shorten the life of the chimney.

When placing the pipe at a great distance from the ridge, in particular in the area of ​​​​the cornice overhang, it must be taken into account that it will experience increased loads during an avalanche of snow from the roof. To protect the chimney from damage, it is imperative to mount a snow retention system on the slope

Many are of the opinion that the chimney should generally be brought to the ridge line. This facilitates the installation of the junction at the exit of the pipe, and also, since snow will not accumulate here, it practically eliminates the occurrence of leaks. However, such a solution may not always be possible. Firstly, you will need a rafter system where there is no load-bearing ridge beam, or creating a gap in the beam for the chimney and reinforcing it with supports, which is problematic in the case of a mansard roof. And secondly, accessories for the output of the pipe through the ridge are produced only for channels of square or rectangular section.

What roofers categorically do not recommend doing is to displaychimney in the valley. The implementation of the junction here is very difficult, and leaks are almost inevitable, because rainwater will pour onto the pipe from two slopes at once, and in winter a whole snowdrift will grow here. In addition, it will be necessary to seriously complicate the roof truss structure.

Chimney outlet through the insulated roof

Chimney passage through the roof

As you know, the layers of vapor and waterproofing that protect the insulation in the "pie" of the mansard roof must be continuous throughout the roof. In addition, the polymer films used for this purpose are combustible. The question arises: how to comply with the fire safety SNiP requirements, which state that there should be a distance of at least 13-25 cm between the outer walls of the chimney and roof elements made of combustible materials (depending on the type of pipe)?

Experts propose to turn the section of the roof hugging the chimney into a separate zone: on the sides of the pipe - with the help of rafter legs, and above and below it - with the help of transverse beams. Thus, a kind of box is created, the dimensions of which are determined on the basis of SNiP. The volume of the box is filled with high-density stone wool, it is a non-combustible insulation, moreover, it can do without steam and hydro protection.

The adjunction of the insulating films of the “pie” to the box is performed traditionally: they are cut crosswise, the edges are brought to the rafters or cross beams and fastened with nails (staples). Joints are sealed with special tapes or adhesives.

So that the chimney does not “pierce” the supporting rafter or fall into the valley area, its location must be clearly defined at the design stage of the building

Opening for chimney

There is another approach to the problem. Since the outer walls of modern multi-layer chimneys, as a rule, do not heat up more than 60 ° C in the exit zone through the roof, nothing threatens the films, and therefore, they can be brought directly to the pipe, fixing with adhesive tape. At the same time, a groove made of stainless steel (or made from the same film) must be installed in the waterproofing layer above the pipe to remove moisture that has fallen under the roof.

Important! When choosing a chimney with a heat-insulating layer, it should be taken into account that a number of factors affect the temperature of its outer surface at the point of exit to the roof: the height of the pipe, the type of heating equipment, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, etc.

The output of a steel pipe through the eaves of an insulated roof has a certain advantage. Since there are no steam, hydro and heat insulating layers in the design of the overhang, there are thus no problems with wiring the smoke channel through the roofing "pie" while ensuring the continuity of all layers and guaranteeing fire safety.

It will also significantly simplify the task of bringing the pipe through a U-shaped cutout in the cornice overhang, which excludes the very presence of an junction with the roofing. True, in this case it will be necessary to provide for an additional drain in the cutout area.

However, it must be borne in mind that, being removed from the ridge, the chimney will turn out to be quite high and will experience serious wind loads. And therefore, to strengthen it, you will need a stretching system, for which you will also have to provide a sealed passage through the roof.

Attachment to roofing

Conclusion of a ceramic chimney to the roof

The main thing with its device is to ensure the removal of water from here, flowing down the walls of the head and along the slope of the roof, for which an apron is provided around the pipe. For chimneys of rectangular or square section, it is created using accessories for roofing. When ceramic roofs andcement-sand tiles plastic self-adhesive tapes (lead, aluminum) are used, which are glued with one edge to the pipe, and with the other - to the roof. To prevent water from leaking under the tape, its upper edge is closed with a metal bar of a curved profile, fixed with heat-resistant dowels and the joint is treated with roofing sealant.

On shingle roofs the apron is usually formed from a valley carpet or ordinary tiles laid with a call to the pipe, and on metal-tiled it is made from smooth sheets of the same material.

When making the junction on the side of the chimney that is higher along the slope, the apron must be brought under the roofing. Thus, the overlying roof element will cover it with an overlap, which will eliminate the possibility of leaks.

razuklonka

If the width of the rear wall of the chimney (that is, facing the ridge) is more than 80 cm, then behind the pipe it is necessary to arrange a ramp, or, in other words, a groove, a small pitched structure, which is a fracture of the roof, which will dilute water flows on the sides and will not give to accumulate here a mass of snow.

Creating a ramp is no easy task. After all, two short valleys appear in this zone, requiring the same high-quality performance as the “real” ones.

A wide chimney creates another difficulty: making it difficult to ventilate the under-roof space, it makes it necessary to install special ventilation elements on the roof - aerators, etc.

Elements of a steel modular chimney

Manufacturers of round chimneys (three-layer insulated structures in a stainless steel shell) produce ready-made elements that ensure the tightness of the junction of the pipe to the roof. These are the so-called passages consisting of a steel sole and an apron-cap attached to it. In order to prevent their damage during temperature deformations of the pipe, the passages are rigidly fixed only to the roof, and a “skirt” is put on the joint of the cap with the pipe - a steel collar with an elastic heat-resistant gasket that does not allow water to penetrate under the apron.

The passage element built into the roof is sealed with pieces of heat-resistant plastic tape (based on lead or aluminum) or framed with a special lead detail, giving it a roof relief profile. Please note: the upper edge of the sole should be brought under the cover, and the bottom edge should overlap it.

Sometimes, in order to increase the tightness of the metal penetration, the steel sheet of the sole is mounted on top of the roof, bringing it directly under the ridge element. From the point of view of protection against leaks, the solution is reliable, but not aesthetically pleasing.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work of passing chimney pipes through floor slabs and roof construction - knowledge that will be useful to any man who decides to do the work with his own hands. The work is not easy and requires care and responsibility, because the safety of your home and its protection from fires depend on the quality.

General rules and seat selection

How to run a stove pipe through a wooden ceiling - this must be done so that there are no troubles, as in the photo. The main task of the preparatory stage is to determine the location of the furnace and the chimney to the street. Depending on the materials of the floor slabs and chimney pipes, it will be necessary to perform work taking into account several dimensions:

Chimney outlet schemes through the ceiling and roof

1st floor

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling of the 1st floor is equipped with a metal box filled with a layer of thermal insulation. To do this, you can use expanded clay backfill, filling the cavities with mineral wool. For non-residential premises, the use of asbestos slabs is allowed.

Installation diagram of the chimney through the ceiling with access to the roof (one-story house)

2 or more floors

When passing through slabs of the 2nd and subsequent floors, a situation may arise when the chimney cannot be installed vertically. Builders could move partitions or install a beam in the floor structure.

Therefore, in order not to take risks, when arranging chimneys in a multi-storey building, it is better to use a house ventilation system. If you make a horizontal indent, possible condensate will collect in this place and a thick layer of soot will be deposited on the walls. And it will be difficult to clean the chimney through the turns.

Scheme of installing a furnace chimney in a 2-story house

Scheme with a description of all elements

The output of the chimney through the ceiling

The choice of design and materials depends on the type of chimney. Let us analyze the rules for organizing work for the main materials of pipelines in detail.

round metal

The whole process is divided into several stages:

Stages of work on the removal of a steel chimney through the ceiling

brick chimney

Everything is much more complicated here:

The scheme of the output of a brick chimney through the ceiling and the roof of the house

Passage through the roof

The passage of the chimney through the roof is carried out by analogy with floor slabs. The only addition is to provide a reliable layer of waterproofing to prevent water from leaking at the exit of the chimney.

The passage of a brick pipe through the roof

Bricks for rooftop stoves are ceramic, red, of high quality and brand. Here it is influenced not only by the high temperature of the gases, but also by the aggressive conditions of the outside temperature, wind and precipitation.

After crossing with the floor slab, we lay out the pipe to the point of exit through the roof structure:

• we mark and carefully cut out the cavity of the chimney passage, make a size with a margin for the insulation layer;
• we equip the passageway with a metal box with a cavity for the passage of the pipe. The upper cut must be made taking into account the angle of the roof, and is set slightly recessed inward;
• after the chimney exits, we fill the entire space with a layer of thermal insulation, seal all the slightest voids with sealant;
• we start a layer of waterproofing under the surface of the roof structure. Then we put on a steel apron or a rubber sleeve on top. The edges are carefully sealed with sealant.

The main material of the roof covering is laid on top, and the pipe is extruded to the desired size. An “otter” is laid out at the top and a protective visor is installed. Pulling a chimney through the roof is not difficult if you have a good tool and the skills to perform brick and plumbing work.

The passage of a round pipe through the roof

The passage of the chimney through the roof, if the chimney is made of steel, ceramic or asbestos pipes, is carried out in the same way as with a brick chimney (instructions above).

If it is necessary to install a high pipe, it is fastened with steel braces to special anchors embedded in the roof structure.

How to correctly lead the chimney through the roof slope?

The exit point of the smoke channel through the roof is a complex structural unit. What are the requirements for its implementation, as well as for the height and location of the part of the pipe protruding above the roof?

Let's trust the experts

Determining the height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge

As for the height of the chimney, the regulatory document (SNiP "Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning") states that at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from the ridge, the pipe should rise above it by at least 50 cm; at 1.5–3 m - be not lower than the ridge, and at a distance of more than 3 m - not lower than the line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10 ° to the horizon. But there are no clear regulations regarding the location of the chimney on the roof. What do experts say about this?

The basic postulate: the closer the pipe to the ridge, the better. In this case, the head of the pipe (that is, that part of it that protrudes above the roof, which means it is in the cold zone) will be very small; thus, the likelihood of condensation in the chimney in winter is reduced. The condensate containing aggressive substances that falls inside, at the very mouth or on the protective and decorative umbrella of the pipe, is by no means harmless. It can cause poor draft in a fireplace or boiler, damage to the finishing material of the head and roof, and even shorten the life of the chimney.

When placing the pipe at a great distance from the ridge, in particular in the area of ​​​​the cornice overhang, it must be taken into account that it will experience increased loads during an avalanche of snow from the roof. To protect the chimney from damage, it is imperative to mount a snow retention system on the slope

Many are of the opinion that the chimney should generally be brought to the ridge line. This facilitates the installation of the junction at the exit of the pipe, and also, since snow will not accumulate here, it practically eliminates the occurrence of leaks. However, such a solution may not always be possible. Firstly, you will need a rafter system where there is no load-bearing ridge beam, or creating a gap in the beam for the chimney and reinforcing it with supports, which is problematic in the case of a mansard roof. And secondly, accessories for the output of the pipe through the ridge are produced only for channels of square or rectangular section.

What roofers categorically do not recommend doing is to display chimney in the valley. The implementation of the junction here is very difficult, and leaks are almost inevitable, because rainwater will pour onto the pipe from two slopes at once, and in winter a whole snowdrift will grow here. In addition, it will be necessary to seriously complicate the roof truss structure.

Chimney outlet through the insulated roof

Chimney passage through the roof

As you know, the layers of vapor and waterproofing that protect the insulation in the "pie" of the mansard roof must be continuous throughout the roof. In addition, the polymer films used for this purpose are combustible. The question arises: how to comply with the fire safety SNiP requirements, which state that there must be a distance of at least 13–25 cm between the outer walls of the chimney and roof elements made of combustible materials (depending on the type of pipe)?

Experts propose to turn the section of the roof hugging the chimney into a separate zone: on the sides of the pipe - with the help of rafter legs, and above and below it - with the help of transverse beams. Thus, a kind of box is created, the dimensions of which are determined on the basis of SNiP. The volume of the box is filled with high-density stone wool, it is a non-combustible insulation, moreover, it can do without steam and hydro protection.

The adjunction of the insulating films of the “pie” to the box is performed traditionally: they are cut crosswise, the edges are brought to the rafters or cross beams and fastened with nails (staples). Joints are sealed with special tapes or adhesives.

So that the chimney does not “pierce” the supporting rafter or fall into the valley area, its location must be clearly defined at the design stage of the building

Opening for chimney

There is another approach to the problem. Since the outer walls of modern multi-layer chimneys, as a rule, do not heat up more than 60 ° C in the exit zone through the roof, nothing threatens the films, and therefore, they can be brought directly to the pipe, fixing with adhesive tape. At the same time, a groove made of stainless steel (or made from the same film) must be installed in the waterproofing layer above the pipe to remove moisture that has fallen under the roof.

Important! When choosing a chimney with a heat-insulating layer, it should be taken into account that a number of factors affect the temperature of its outer surface at the point of exit to the roof: the height of the pipe, the type of heating equipment, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, etc.

The output of a steel pipe through the eaves of an insulated roof has a certain advantage. Since there are no steam, hydro and heat insulating layers in the design of the overhang, there are thus no problems with wiring the smoke channel through the roofing "pie" while ensuring the continuity of all layers and guaranteeing fire safety.

It will also significantly simplify the task of bringing the pipe through a U-shaped cutout in the cornice overhang, which excludes the very presence of an junction with the roofing. True, in this case it will be necessary to provide for an additional drain in the cutout area.

However, it must be borne in mind that, being removed from the ridge, the chimney will turn out to be quite high and will experience serious wind loads. And therefore, to strengthen it, you will need a stretching system, for which you will also have to provide a sealed passage through the roof.

Attachment to roofing

Conclusion of a ceramic chimney to the roof

The main thing with its device is to ensure the removal of water from here, flowing down the walls of the head and along the slope of the roof, for which an apron is provided around the pipe. For chimneys of rectangular or square section, it is created using accessories for roofing. When ceramic roofs and cement-sand tiles plastic self-adhesive tapes (lead, aluminum) are used, which are glued with one edge to the pipe, and with the other - to the roof. To prevent water from leaking under the tape, its upper edge is closed with a metal bar of a curved profile, fixed with heat-resistant dowels and the joint is treated with roofing sealant.

On shingle roofs the apron is usually formed from a valley carpet or ordinary tiles laid with a call to the pipe, and on metal-tiled it is made from smooth sheets of the same material.

When making the junction on the side of the chimney that is higher along the slope, the apron must be brought under the roofing. Thus, the overlying roof element will cover it with an overlap, which will eliminate the possibility of leaks.

razuklonka

If the width of the rear wall of the chimney (that is, facing the ridge) is more than 80 cm, then behind the pipe it is necessary to arrange a ramp, or, in other words, a groove, a small pitched structure, which is a fracture of the roof, which will dilute water flows on the sides and will not give to accumulate here a mass of snow.

Creating a ramp is no easy task. After all, two short valleys appear in this zone, requiring the same high-quality performance as the “real” ones.

A wide chimney creates another difficulty: making it difficult to ventilate the under-roof space, it makes it necessary to install special ventilation elements on the roof - aerators, etc.

Elements of a steel modular chimney

Manufacturers of round chimneys (three-layer insulated structures in a stainless steel shell) produce ready-made elements that ensure the tightness of the junction of the pipe to the roof. These are the so-called passages consisting of a steel sole and an apron-cap attached to it. In order to prevent their damage during temperature deformations of the pipe, the passages are rigidly fixed only to the roof, and a “skirt” is put on the joint of the cap with the pipe - a steel collar with an elastic heat-resistant gasket that does not allow water to penetrate under the apron.

The passage element built into the roof is sealed with pieces of heat-resistant plastic tape (based on lead or aluminum) or framed with a special lead detail, giving it a roof relief profile. Please note: the upper edge of the sole must be brought under the coating, and the lower one must overlap it.

Sometimes, in order to increase the tightness of the metal penetration, the steel sheet of the sole is mounted on top of the roof, bringing it directly under the ridge element. From the point of view of protection against leaks, the solution is reliable, but not aesthetically pleasing.

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How to install and bring the chimney pipe through the roof, to what height

Heating appliances are a necessary attribute of any residential building, providing a comfortable temperature for life during the cold period, which lasts 9 months in most regions of Russia. However, additional comfort comes with a certain degree of fire risk. Therefore, special attention is paid to the chimney, through which smoke and combustion products are removed from the heat generators and removed to the outside of the room. This article will tell you how to bring the chimney through the roof in compliance with all safety requirements.

The consequences of poor installation

As a rule, the work of a stove-maker or an installer of gas equipment does not include chimney installation services; the homeowner must provide the passage of the chimney through the roof on his own. The imaginary simplicity of the task makes home craftsmen refuse the services of professional roofers. However, poor-quality output of the pipe to the roof threatens with serious consequences:

1. Through a leaky passage of the pipe, moisture seeps into the masonry, gradually destroying the brick chimney.
2. Increased humidity inside the chimney pipe stimulates the spread of molds and fungus. Spores of some types of fungus are dangerous for the human condition, so it is not safe to use an infected tube. In advanced cases, both the chimney and the stove masonry are subject to replacement.
3. The penetration of water into the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof reduces the thermal insulation properties of the insulation by half. Moreover, after the thermal insulation layer has dried, its characteristics will never return to the previous level.
4. Even the truss system suffers from poor-quality removal of the pipe through the roof, since moisture penetrating into it through a leaky passage leads to decay and destruction.
5. Slots near the pipe passage disrupt the normal air circulation inside the attic, leading to increased energy losses and heating costs.

By the way, not only stove chimneys are brought to the roof, but pipes from gas boilers and ventilation outlets are also placed there, for the installation of which they use the same methods.

The choice of the location of the chimney outlet and its height

The first condition for a high-quality outlet of the pipe through the roof is the correct placement of the chimney on the roof. The functioning of the entire heating system depends on this factor, therefore, in order to avoid errors, installation is carried out in accordance with construction and fire safety requirements:

• Chimney pipes are placed in the immediate vicinity of the highest point of the roof, at a distance of 1-1.5 m.
• The recommended height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge to ensure normal stove draft is 0.5-1.5 m.
• The greater the height of the chimney, the greater the traction force in the furnace or gas boiler it provides.
• The lower the chimney is located on the slope, the longer it must be in order for the recommended height of the chimney above the roof to meet the recommendations.
• Parameters such as the height of the chimney, the diameter of the section are selected according to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the thermogenerating device or on the basis of a calculation.
• The chimney consists mainly of vertical sections of pipes, the length of horizontal segments should not exceed 1 m.
• The outlet is placed between the elements of the truss system so as not to violate its integrity.

The main difficulty in passing the pipe through the roof is that during the passage of smoke, the temperature of the walls rises, which poses a risk of ignition of combustible materials of the truss system.

Elastic penetration

Most often, in private construction, they are faced with the installation of metal pipes of circular cross section. To ensure the tightness of the passage, use a special device - an elastic penetration. This product is made of high-strength silicone or rubber, having the shape of a funnel with a wide flange in the form of a square or circle, called an apron. Elastic penetration, due to its properties, takes any shape, adjusting to the angle of inclination of the ramp. It withstands extreme high or low temperatures, exposure to harsh chemicals and has a wide palette.

When purchasing an elastic penetration, they are guided by the diameter of the pipe and the color of the roofing material. Universal models, in the form of a stepped pyramid, are suitable for any size, adjustment is carried out by trimming the penetration to the desired level. Installing an elastic apron on the roof is very simple, you need to put it on the chimney passage, apply a metal circle with holes for fasteners, process the joint with a fire-resistant sealant and fix it with a screwdriver. For roofs with steep slopes, a special type of plastic penetrations is used with a given flange mounting angle.

Metal spigot

In hardware stores, you can find another type of penetration for round pipes - a metal pipe through. It is used to pass the chimney through a roof that does not have a relief. The prefabricated alloy steel spigots have a standard roof angle, which is matched to the roof slope. To complete the installation, you must:

Cut a suitable hole in the roof. To do this, using a marker, markings are applied to the surface of the roof. Depending on the roofing material, cutting is performed with a grinder or sharp scissors, stepping back 1-2 cm inside the circle.

• Remove the waterproofing and thermal insulation material from the hole made, freeing the passage for the chimney. If necessary, remove the elements of the crate by carefully sawing them off.
• On the underside of the roof, fix a sheet of fire-resistant material with a hole of the required diameter of such an area that there is a margin of 15-20 cm on each side of the chimney.
• Push the pipe module into the hole, dock it with the laid chimney, tightening the junction with a clamp.
• Put the outlet pipe on the pipe, fixing it on the slope surface with fire-resistant sealant and self-tapping screws with a rubber cap.
• Attach the pipe with new segments so that the height of the chimney reaches 0.5-1.5 m above the level of the ridge.

Some craftsmen prefer to use a different method - they pre-solder the chimney pipe into the passage pipe, cover it with thermally insulating material, for example, stone wool, and only then this design is mounted in the passage.

Conclusion of rectangular and square pipes

The chimney of stoves and fireplaces made of bricks is most often square or rectangular, so other methods are used to bring it to the roof. This task is for an experienced kiln master, and not a home craftsman, because a special masonry technique is used in the process. When the chimney approaches the roof, a hole of the appropriate size is cut out in it with an allowance of 2-5 cm, through which the stove-maker leads the pipe to the roof. Although heat-resistant brick perfectly retains heat inside the pipe, asbestos sheets are chipped from the inside of the passage to protect the rafters from fire.

A soft waterproofing tape on a lead or aluminum base is attached to a brick pipe using a metal profile, the lower edge of which is fixed to the roof with a sealant. After that, the unsightly waterproofing is closed with a special decorative apron. It consists of four additional parts and is installed under the roofing material, making the passage neat and well protected.

Output box installation

The roofing device consists of layers of several materials, the refractory qualities of which are expressed in different ways. While most roofing materials are non-flammable and non-combustible, truss systems traditionally made from timber do not. In order to safely lead the chimney through any material, a passage box is mounted:

• First of all, a box is purchased or made from a refractory material, for example, metal or asbestos. The size of the box is selected in accordance with the cross section of the pipe, so that there is at least 15 cm between their walls.
• After making the hole, a box is installed in it, the upper edge is aligned with the level of the roof slope.
• The chimney is led out through the hole in the duct. The edges of the waterproofing film and vapor barrier are glued to the pipe using a fire-resistant sealant and reinforced tape.
• Expanded clay is poured inside the box or stone wool is laid to insulate the chimney. Thermal insulating materials are placed taking into account the fact that they should not impede air circulation.
• Outside, the chimney pipe, depending on the shape and roofing material, is finished with an elastic penetration, a decorative apron or a metal pipe.

A well-made chimney outlet does not spoil the appearance of the roof, does not allow moisture to pass through and is safe from the point of view of fire safety standards. Follow the correct technology for passing tubes through ceilings to protect yourself and your property.

Video instruction

How to properly install a chimney through the roof

Heating appliances are an indispensable element of every residential building. They are designed to provide a comfortable room temperature for living in the cold seasons. In the regions of Russia, this period averages 6 months, in some places - up to 10 or more. Getting additional comfort is associated with a certain risk of fire.

For this reason, increased attention must be paid to chimneys that bring smoke and combustion products from heating devices outside the premises. This article will look at how to bring the chimney through the roof safely and according to all modern rules and regulations.

The chimney is used in devices where heat is generated by burning various fuels. This fuel is wood, coal, gas or other combustible substances. The removal of combustion products through the pipe through the roof is regulated by the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003. Some points are considered partially obsolete, but most supervisory services rely on this document. Therefore, the requirements and standards contained in it are binding.

What can a bad installation lead to?

Often, the list of works of a master stove-maker or installer of a gas or electric heating boiler does not include work on arranging a chimney. It is understood that the passage of the chimney through the roof is laid at the construction stage, or the homeowner will mount the chimney on his own. The apparent simplicity of such work provokes the owners to refuse to use professional roofers. They do not think about what serious negative consequences a poor-quality outlet of the chimney to the roof can lead to. Frequently occurring problems:

Not only chimneys from stoves, fireplaces and other solid fuel devices are raised above the roof. Exhaust pipes from gas heaters, as well as ventilation pipes, are also taken out there. When installing them, exactly the same methods are used as for chimneys.

The height of the pipe and the place of its passage in the roof

The chimney on the roof can only be placed correctly if the pipe outlet through the roof is chosen correctly. This factor can affect the correct functioning of the heating system. To prevent errors during installation, it is necessary to be guided by existing fire safety requirements, as well as building rules and regulations. The main points of arrangement:

The main problem with arranging a pipe through a roof lies in the fact that when smoke or combustion products pass, the temperature of the structure rises, and this can lead to the ignition of the materials from which the roofing or truss system elements are made.

Flexible passage for round chimney

Usually, in private residential construction, one has to deal with the arrangement of chimney and ventilation pipes of circular cross section. How can the chimney be installed through the roof elements, in order to also ensure the sealing of the passage? For this, a special design is used - an elastic passage element of the roof. This product is made of special durable silicone or rubber. The shape resembles a funnel with wide fields of round or square shape. These fields are called an apron. The elastic passage element, due to the flexibility of the material, can take any configuration. This allows it to be used on roofs with any angle of slope and any final coatings. The material from which it is made must withstand the highest possible low and high temperatures, as well as be resistant to the external environment. Elastic penetrations are available in various colors and configurations.

When choosing which penetration to purchase, you need to focus on the diameter of the chimney and the color of the roof finish. Universal products are produced, similar to a stepped pyramid, they are suitable for any pipe diameter. The size is adjusted with scissors, which cut the penetration to the required level.

Installation of an elastic apron on the roof is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to attach it to the chimney passage, press it from above with a metal circle, in which holes for self-tapping screws are provided, apply fire-resistant sealant to the place of contact with the roof and screw it on with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

For roofs with extremely steep angles, it is necessary to use a special type of penetrations with a fixed angle of mounting the pressure flange.

Rigid metal spigot

For the arrangement of chimneys, you can use another type of passage products for pipes of a round configuration - a passage pipe made of metal. It is used in cases where it is necessary to equip the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof without relief. Such finished products made of galvanized or painted steel are made to a fixed angle of the roof slope.

To purchase, you need to measure this angle at your roof. The installation of such a product is carried out in the following order:

In some cases, it is recommended to use a different method. Its essence is that it is necessary to pre-make a chimney pipe in the passage box, overlay it with a special insulating material, for example, basalt wool, and after that the whole structure is laid in the roof.

Arrangement of rectangular chimneys

When the laying of the chimney pipe approaches the roof, it is necessary to cut a hole of the estimated size in it with a tolerance of about 6 cm. With the help of it, the pipe will be removed above the roof. Despite the fact that heat-resistant brick perfectly retains heat inside the chimney, this pipe must be lined with asbestos sheets from the outside. This measure will protect the rafters from exposure to high temperatures.

Waterproofing on an aluminum substrate is attached to the protruding part of the brick pipe with a metal profile, and its lower edge is fixed to the roof with a sealant. Further, the ugly waterproofing of the chimney on the roof is covered with a special decorative apron. It consists of four parts and is mounted on the roof, making the transition aesthetic and protected from influences.

Properly equipped pipe outlet will not spoil the appearance of the roof, will not allow moisture to penetrate and is completely safe according to fire safety requirements. Finishing the chimney on the roof is carried out depending on the design of the roof and the desire of the homeowner.

Installing a chimney is a rather responsible and complicated job. It is necessary to think over all the stages of installation in advance and get advice from a specialist.

All roofs of buildings have pipes going out. It can be a smoke or ventilation duct. Properly executed passage of the chimney through the roof ensures not only the removal of combustion products, but also guarantees comfortable living for the residents of the house.

To this day, there are disputes between experts about the place of installation of the pipe. Some argue that it should be closer to the roof ridge. Explaining this by the fact that in this case the main part of the pipe will be within the closed attic, which means it is protected from atmospheric influences.

Some argue that it is best to place the chimney on the ridge. Masters motivate this by the fact that in this way it will be possible to avoid the formation of snow pockets in winter, which are the cause of leaks. And, of course, the installation of such a passage assembly is the easiest.

There is a third option for finding a chimney, according to which some distance from the center of the roof is assumed. The fact is that a fireplace or stove can be arranged in any part of the house and then it is easier to arrange a chimney above them. With this option, the correct arrangement of the pipe connection with the ceiling plays a very important role.

What should be the passage through the roof

Most of the problems arise when organizing the exit of the chimney through an insulated roof. Since it consists of many layers, it is both insulation and insulating materials, as well as the crate and the roofing itself.

The main condition for such a passage device is the safety of the wooden structures of the roof, their protection from contact with a hot pipe. To solve this problem, mineral wool is used, with a base of basalt or fiberglass.

The node of the equipped chimney passage through the roof can be of different shapes. It depends on what material was used in the construction of the channel itself.

The pipe is usually shaped like:

The first two types are created during the construction of a brick chimney and block materials. The use of metal pipes or stainless steel pipes, as well as asbestos-cement products, leads to the creation of round shapes.

Whatever the shape of the chimney, it is imperative to install a cap on the chimney pipe to protect the internal surfaces of the channel from the effects of precipitation. On metal as well as asbestos-cement pipes, special umbrellas serve as protection, and a structure with a closed upper part and holes on the sides is placed above the brickwork.

The basic rule that must be observed, regardless of the location of the pipe on the roof, is that it must rise above the ridge by at least 50 centimeters.

The exit of the chimney through the roof is equipped with a protective apron. It is usually made of galvanized metal, which is covered with a special polymer metal on top. This option is good for rectangular or square pipes.

Round penetration device

Today, metal pipes for chimneys are made multilayer, with a heater placed between the inner and outer shell. In order for the passage of the chimney through the roofing and ceiling to be hermetically sealed, ready-made metal assemblies should be used.

They are a steel sheet with an apron attached to it in the form of a cap.

The chimney is passed through this cap, and the so-called “skirt” is put on top of it, covering the joints between the walls and the apron. For greater tightness, an elastic gasket with heat-resistant qualities is sometimes used.

To make a passage through the roof of a round pipe, in addition to metal aprons, it is also possible to use silicone or rubber products. When choosing such a penetration, it must be taken into account that the size of its inner ring must be less than the diameter of the chimney.

If it was not possible to select a ring of the required diameter, then experts advise choosing a smaller penetration and adjusting it to the desired size during installation. After that, the sealing ring can be pulled onto the pipe. In this procedure, the use of laundry soap or other substance that can facilitate dressing the cuff is allowed.

After the ring is firmly seated on the pipe, it must be pressed as tightly as possible to the roofing material. Make sure that there are no gaps around the pipe. You can enhance the tightness by applying a sealant around the edges of the ring and fixing it to the roofing with self-tapping screws. The distance between the fasteners should be about 4 centimeters.

A positive feature of round penetrations is the possibility of their installation on any roofing material. The elasticity of the product is very high. The properties of the material from which it is made, allows you to arrange reliable waterproofing on any roofing, regardless of the configuration of its material. So, for example, a chimney passes through a relief metal tile.

Roofing experts advise using penetrations made of EPDM membrane rubber or silicone. Since it is these materials that best tolerate significant temperature changes, which happens quite often in our climatic conditions.

When installing aprons, one rule should be observed - their upper edge should be brought under the coating, and the lower one should be put on top, overlapping the roofing material.

Installation of square and rectangular pipes through the roof

The passage of the chimney through the roof truss system and the arrangement of the passage is accompanied by the installation of a kind of frame around it, which is formed by rafter legs and transverse beams laid from above and below the pipe. It must be placed in compliance with the distances provided for by SNiP.

The distance can be from 13 to 25 centimeters, it depends on the material of the chimney. The space around the chimney is filled with insulation.

It is recommended to use high-density mineral wool boards for this. Due to the fact that such insulation does not get wet, there is no need to lay additional vapor and waterproofing layers around the chimney.

The roof insulation is attached to the duct surrounding the chimney in this way. Rolled materials at the passage point are cut in an envelope shape. The edges of the envelopes are fixed using staples or nails on the wooden elements of the roof: rafters and beams. For the reliability of waterproofing, special tapes should be used, the use of sealants is allowed.

An important nuance of the passage of the chimney through the wooden roof is the arrangement of a drain chute located above the pipe and designed to protect the chimney from water. Usually it is made from special anti-corrosion metal elements or a waterproofing film.

The passage of the chimney through the wooden roof can be done in a different way. In the case when the chimney is made using modern materials, has a multilayer structure, then the fastening of hydro- and vapor barrier materials can be carried out directly to the walls of the chimney.

Since the outer surface of such a chimney does not heat up above 60 degrees, the roofing insulating materials are not threatened by fire.

With this option, it is also possible to install a special seal for roof penetrations. All materials are attached to the pipe with adhesive tape, and a clamping bar is installed on top of the pipe, which will close the junction.

A little about the overlap and the passage through it

Before the chimney exits into the attic space, it must first pass through the ceiling. For this, special pipes are used. They are made of non-flammable materials and reliably insulate the chimney.

The passage through the ceiling for the chimney and ceiling must be absolutely safe.

Especially if the wall is made of wood. Then an air gap must be left between it and the pipe. In addition, foil non-combustible mineral insulation is laid along the diameter of the hole in the ceiling. The same protective layer of insulation is placed between the pipe lining and the ceiling.

It can be especially pointed out that in the place where there is a chimney passage through a wooden ceiling, joints in the pipe should not be allowed. It is necessary to calculate the parameters of the smoke channel in such a way that through the ceiling covering its entire section.

And yet, if the pipe is laid on the second floor, they must be protected from accidental contact by arranging a casing with the installation of a crate for the ventilation hole, which is necessary to remove the generated heat.

Sealing rule

To protect the chimney pipe from water ingress into the cracks where it passes through the tiles, you can use a special elastic tape made on the basis of lead and aluminum. There is an adhesive on the back of it.

With its lower part, the tape is attached to the roof, and the other - to the chimney pipe. The section of the tape glued to the chimney pipe is pressed with a metal bundle, and the flanging is additionally sealed with a sealant, which means that the penetration of water under the protective tape is completely excluded.

Watch the video, a simple way to seal and seal

A chimney passage is equipped through the roofing and is equipped in an identical way. But instead of an elastic band, a valley carpet is used. The same principle is used to insulate the chimney when passing through the metal tile. With this option, the apron is made of sheet material, similar in color to the roof covering.

Installing a chimney through the roof is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. There are many nuances, non-observance of which can lead to unwanted leaks and destruction of the pipe. Some points should be familiar with in advance.

There is nothing wrong with consulting experts or finding the right material on the pages of specialized sites. But then you will not have to make repairs soon after installation.

Chimney passage nodes through the roof and wall

During the installation of chimneys in a private house or bath, not very experienced performers make a lot of different mistakes. Moreover, most of the flaws fall on those places where it is necessary to lay a chimney in the wall or cross the structures of the ceiling and roof. These are very important nodes, any mistake in their implementation can lead to fire and a fire in the house. In this regard, this material provides exhaustive answers to the questions of how to correctly bring the chimney to the street through the wall and roof.

How to bring a pipe through the roof

In capital buildings made of brick or aerated concrete with floor slabs, it is customary to think over the arrangement of chimneys in advance, even at the design stage. When everything is calculated correctly, then there are no problems, the chimney is located directly in the bearing brick wall together with ventilation channels.

The crossing of the ceiling inside the house is carried out simultaneously with its construction, as well as the removal of the pipe to the roof. In buildings made of non-combustible materials, fire safety requirements are met automatically, since the high temperature of the exhaust gases does not threaten brick or aerated concrete structures.

There are only 2 caveats:

• when using combustible insulation in the attic, make sure that the distance between it and the channel inside the chimney is at least 38 cm. The ceiling near the pipe must simply be insulated with non-combustible basalt fiber;
• the distance from the brick pipe wall to the nearest wooden structure (rafters, lathing) must be at least 130 mm.

The output of a brick chimney pipe to the roof consists in tightly fitting the roofing to it, followed by sealing the joints. The junction with slate can be done the old fashioned way - using strips of roofing material and hot bitumen or mastic. The method is not suitable when new roofing materials are used - corrugated board or metal tiles. Here you need to make parts of the apron from metal of the same color, and then fix them to the chimney with self-tapping screws on dowels, smearing them with a waterproof sealant from the inside.

Important. The lower part of the part, fixed from the side of the ridge, must be brought under the roofing, otherwise water leakage is inevitable.

Now about how to make a roof passage assembly with a metal chimney. In this situation, the correct solution would be to install a sandwich pipe with fireproof insulation inside. It must be understood that, according to fire regulations, a distance of 500 mm will have to be maintained between a single-walled steel channel and the nearest roofing piece made of wood. When installing a sandwich, the wooden structure is already considered fireproof, and therefore the interval is reduced to 380 mm.

For reference. Unlike a chimney, an exhaust duct leading to a roof does not require such strict regulations. It is good enough to seal against water leakage.

Since the metal chimney pipe is round, it is difficult to make an external seal without such a detail as a master flash. It is simply pulled over the pipe from above and fixed with its “sole” to the roofing.

In exceptional cases, when the temperature of the metal surface exceeds 100 °C, a special round apron made of galvanized steel is installed instead of the silicone master flash. A similar situation is not uncommon at the exit of the flue from the bath, where the temperature of the combustion products reaches 600 °C. Also, the master flash is not suitable for a soft roof made of shingles or roofing felt, steel parts are more appropriate here.

Passage through a combustible ceiling

In this case, the best way to bring the chimney through the ceiling to the attic is to install a ready-made ceiling-pass assembly. It is made of galvanized steel of the required dimensions and for different diameters of channels, but it is not at all expensive.

To install the node, you will need to make an opening in the ceiling, then fasten the lower part and pass the pipe through it.

Important. It is not allowed that the joint of the chimney sections get inside the ceiling-through unit. If this happens, it is necessary to select sections of a different length.

Then everything is simple: the cavity of the node is tightly stuffed with basalt fiber, after which its upper part is installed. If you do not want to buy a finished product, then you can make a similar assembly with your own hands by cutting the part to the size of the galvanized opening.

Then a hole is made for the pipe and the sheet is attached to the ceiling. To perform stuffing with basalt wool, on the other hand, you can make a box from sheet minerite, basalt cardboard or, at worst, from wood, as shown in the photo:

It is just as easy to correctly remove the stove chimney from bricks without performing the cutting masonry. Bearing in mind the distance required by the rules (380 mm from the inner wall of the channel), an opening is cut out in the wooden floor. After that, the laying of the pipe continues, and then the opening is hemmed from the inside with galvanization and stuffed with a basalt sealant.

Attention! It is not allowed to fasten a metal chimney to the supporting structures of the roof. The reason is the thermal expansion of the material due to heating from the removed combustion products.

How to run a chimney through a wall

When the outer wall is made of brick or other non-combustible material, it is quite easy to bring the gas duct through it. A round through hole is cut out, where a metal sleeve is then placed. You can do without it if the opening is drilled perfectly round for the outer size of the sandwich. Also, it will not be possible to install a sleeve when the chimney passes through the wall at an angle other than 90 °.

Bearing in mind the inadmissibility of joints in the thickness of the wall, a pipe is passed through the hole, the gaps around it are filled with a fireproof sealant. It remains only to install and attach it to the vertical section. If the house is built of wood or frame technology, then you should be guided by the same rules as when installing a ceiling-passage unit.

This means that in order for the chimney to exit through a wooden wall, it is also necessary to cut an opening in it and put a finished element in it or make one yourself. Then fill the cavity with basalt wool and close it on both sides with sheets of galvanized iron. In the event that it is necessary to pass an ordinary single pipe through a wooden wall (for example, from a bathhouse), then the width of the opening should be increased by 120 mm in each direction (up to 500 mm).

Fixing the chimney to the wall

For the correct installation of a gas duct made of metal outside the house, a number of simple rules must be observed:

• to install the lower part of the pipe with a tee and a condensate drain, it is better to use a special bracket as a good stop;
• inserting sections one into the other (for condensate), fasten the chimney to the wall with clamps every meter;
• do not allow the clamps to coincide with the joints of the sections;
• when bypassing the roof overhang, do not use 90 ° elbows, but only 45 or 30 °;

if the drainage system has not yet been installed, then it is necessary to leave room for laying the gutter, choosing fasteners of a suitable length.

Conclusion

The installation of wall, ceiling and roof passage nodes must be treated very responsibly, especially when the chimney is made of a single steel pipe. What can result in non-compliance with the listed rules can be seen in the photographs that the Internet is full of.

How to make the passage of the chimney pipe through the ceiling and roof

The device of the chimney cannot be attributed to typical operations for the construction of a private house. There are different types of ceilings, roofing "pies" and coatings, which makes it difficult to work according to a single instruction. We offer to go over the main steps and learn how to make a chimney cutting safe and aesthetic.

Type and heat transfer of the chimney channel

The chimney can be made of masonry, ordinary steel or insulated sandwich pipe. In each case, an individual approach is needed, because in fact there is a different intensity of heating, and a method of fastening the cutting of the ceiling and roof.

Brick chimneys are the most practical and easy to arrange. The high heat capacity of the masonry does not allow the temperature on the outer surface to rise to fire hazardous values. In addition, parts of cuttings and protective covers can be easily and securely fixed to a brick chimney. Well, the fastening of the waterproofing apron of the roof is completely carried out according to the simplest scheme without the use of "proprietary" shaped parts.

Insulated composite pipes are used just as widely, but in some aspects they are inferior to brick ones. They do not look so natural and almost no additional load can withstand. Even more: chimneys of complex shape and long length require additional fixing, which is not good for aesthetics. The heat transfer from such pipes is greater than from brick ones, despite the presence of a heater, they are able to heat the surrounding space quite strongly and require additional lining.

Finally, uninsulated pipes are often used - asbestos-cement, or even steel. Conducting such a chimney through the ceiling and roof is carried out according to the most complex scheme. The lining should not only insulate heat, it must be heat resistant. In addition to incombustibility, it is required to maintain integrity and mechanical strength during cyclic heating/cooling.

Making a hole in the ceiling

In addition to the difficulties associated with different types of chimneys, there is a certain amount of uncertainty due to the variety of ceilings. The easiest way is with concrete monolithic ceilings: an angle grinder with a disk for cutting concrete is cut into them, adhering to the minimum allowable offset from the chimney pipe. Since the floor material is non-combustible, thermal insulation will require a minimum.

It is more difficult with structural strength, especially when passing prefabricated ceilings or if the width of the chimney is 2–3 times the spacing of the slab reinforcement. It is advisable to provide for the need for an opening at the stage of installation of the ceiling, by constructing a reinforced steel hoop or by filling the end of the opening with the inclusion of additional reinforcement.

The opening in the frame floor is more difficult to arrange. First you need to determine the location of the supporting beams. Approximately in the center of the opening, you need to make a hole with a wide crown, to clarify the removal of the beams and their direction by touch. Outside, we apply markings within the free space, then cut out a section of the floor and the draft ceiling with a jigsaw or hand circular. Most likely, the full profile will not be cut out immediately by the beams, but now they will become available for further manipulations.

You can cut out fragments of the beams with an ordinary hand saw and then complete the trimming of parts of the floor and ceiling. To restore the strength of the supporting system of the ceiling, it is enough to add a pair of crossbars, which are equivalent in power to the total cross section of the removed parts. The allowance for the thickness of the inserts must be made in advance. In the cavity at the open ends, it is necessary to lay a heater and sheathe the opening with a thin board or sheet materials. For greater reliability, you can repeat the sheathing with materials with low thermal conductivity - heat-resistant GKL or MGL.

We will describe the filling of the passage opening with a heat insulator and the restoration of the skin a little later. Now it is only worth noting that, due to thermal linear expansion, the chimney and its lining must be located independently of each other with a small gap, otherwise the formation of cracks can spread far beyond the junction area. The internal surfaces of openings in ceilings made of conditionally combustible materials should be treated with flame retardants, as well as the ceiling and floor area 50–60 cm from the passage.

Passage through the roof

When passing both through the ceiling and through the roof, the main rule applies - do not join the pipes in the plane of their section. In addition, it is better to join segments under the roof than above it, even if this requires the purchase of additional pipe moldings.

The opening in the roof is made from the inside. If there is sheathing and insulation, they are dismantled and, with the help of a plumb line, the section of the chimney is transferred, marking the ellipse on the crate. Along its contour, you need to drill several holes in places from which it is convenient to start cutting with a jigsaw, while sawing through both the roofing and the crate under it.

When the hole is made, it is necessary to disassemble the coating 30–40 cm from it. Next, you need to expand the opening in the crate by the thickness of the thermal insulation. The simplest way to equip a cavity for filling with insulation is to tie the rafter legs with jumpers, forming a rectangular pocket.

Thermal insulation of the chimney and the device of the passage unit

Chimneys made of masonry do not require thermal insulation as such. Instead, fluffing is performed - the expansion of the channel at the place of its passage through the overlap. Laying out the fluff is easy: it starts 3-4 rows below the ceiling. Each subsequent row of expansion is laid out, starting with the outer bricks, which are released behind the chimney profile for half their width. The cavity formed inside is paved with bricks placed on edge.

It is worth warning that when laying a brick chimney, you need to give time for shrinkage, collecting no more than 10–12 rows in one day. This is especially true of channels called mounted, that is, laid out on top of the stove or fireplace, and not next to them. If the dimensions of the opening were chosen correctly, after laying the fluff, there should be a gap of about 15–20 mm between it and the skin.

The insulation of the passage of composite and simple pipes is arranged in a completely different way. Basalt wool is used as a filler for the opening, this is true for the passage both through the roof and through the ceiling. The thickness of the thermal barrier is always chosen individually, on average it is 200–250 mm for composite pipes and about 400 mm for non-insulated pipes.

For the convenience of laying the filler, the opening is hemmed from below with sheet heat-resistant material - magnesite or asbestos-cement slab, sheet steel or roofing sheet. A hole should first be made in the overlay, with a cross section of 10–15 mm larger than the channel on each side.

A similar operation is performed in the roof passage. With the only exception that the surface is inclined and the hole for the channel must be oval. If the chimney is made with an uninsulated pipe, it is necessary to divide the opening space with a casing sleeve. Inside it, the space is filled with a dense heat-resistant material, for example, a soaked asbestos briquette with the addition of cement and a bonding fiber.

Varieties of roof cuttings, restoration of waterproofing

If it is quite simple to restore the floor of the ceiling, then the lining of the passage through the roof should completely exclude water leakage. To isolate brick chimneys of rectangular cross section, they are cut along the ring with a depth of about 30–50 mm. From thin sheet metal, you need to bend Z-shaped profiles in the amount of four pieces. The upper shelf they are inserted into the groove, the lower one is adjacent to the roofing. In addition to the external apron, an internal one is also arranged, which does not cut into the body of the chimney and mates with the roofing waterproofing.

The inner apron is made with an L-shaped (ridge) profile with a shelf width of 150 mm or more. Installation begins from the highest point: the ridge is nailed to the chimney with dowels, the waterproofing is applied and fixed with glue. On the sides, you need to leave releases of about 200 mm, which are cut along the fold line and wrapped on the sides of the chimney channel.

Before the final fixing of the petals, the side parts of the apron are mounted, and before they are fixed, the lower segment of the casing is mounted. It is important to properly fill the waterproofing: along the fold line of the lower part of the apron, it is released over the metal ridge. Next, the roofing is restored and the upper lining is mounted - the dressing scheme with the coating is the same as in the previous stage. It is recommended to lubricate the junction of both linings with mastic or plastic sealant, completely eliminating the penetration of moisture.

If the brick chimney is arranged strictly vertically, in the case of pipes, it is recommended to shift the passage place as high as possible to the roof ridge. In this case, it is enough to put a wide metal plate under the ridge, and then isolate the connection to the pipe with an elastic cuff. Otherwise, you can’t do without purchasing a special roof cutting kit, but in this way the likelihood of a leak will be guaranteed to be eliminated. Each type of roofing has its own set of grooves that repeats the shape of the surface and is sealed with a pipe or sealant or a heat-shrinkable neck.

How to make the passage of the chimney pipe through the ceiling and roof

The device of the chimney cannot be attributed to typical operations for the construction of a private house. There are different types of ceilings, roofing "pies" and coatings, which makes it difficult to work according to a single instruction. We

Installing a sandwich pipe through the finished roof

Over the past few years, chimneys have been made using a sandwich pipe. People are attracted by its appearance, low cost and long service life.

A very important factor is the ability to install a sandwich chimney with your own hands.

Of course, the installation of such a chimney requires certain skills in construction and knowledge of some nuances. However, with great effort, such work can be done independently. The main thing is to figure out how to do it right and not lose sight of safety precautions and comply with fire regulations. Carefully monitor the insulation of the chimney.

How to run a chimney through a roof

Such an operation requires a preliminary study of the location of the rafters and installed floor beams.

The pipe must be between these parts. The outer wall of the chimney must not touch the combustible element. A minimum distance of 13 cm must be maintained. Moreover, the combustible element must have a heater. To fulfill such a requirement, it is very often necessary to make a displacement of the pipe. To do this, the pipe in two places is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees.

Important! Installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through the roof, starting from a solid fuel boiler, is carried out with a steel chimney pipe that does not have insulation. You can see it clearly in the picture below. She is painted black. A sandwich adapter is installed at the end of the pipe. The passage unit is connected to a sandwich chimney with insulation.

A special hole is made in the ceiling. It must be done in accordance with fire standards. The distance from the chimney must exceed 250 mm, and the ceiling must be covered with heat-insulating material.

Along the edges, the hole is protected with a fireproof heat-insulating material - minerite. It can be nailed with ordinary nails or use self-tapping screws.

The sandwich is inserted into the box made. Its direction is made vertical, deviations are not allowed.

The pipe does not need to be fixed very rigidly and firmly, it is enough just to create a direction. 2-3 planks will keep her from falling. But the vertical movement will be completely free. This design is done so that the pipe can move up or down. When heated, the pipe increases in length, and this requires additional space and freedom of movement.

The free remaining space is covered with basalt wool. You can fill everything with expanded clay or foam glass granules.

A few years ago, ordinary sand was used. However, he gradually spilled out through the existing cracks. Today, this option has been completely abandoned.

The front side is wrapped in stainless steel. A non-combustible gasket is made under this sheet. In previous years, the gasket was made from asbestos sheet. Today, asbestos is considered a carcinogen, so it has been replaced with mineral wool.

You can also use another method. Close the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and only then install the assembled passage assembly made of stainless steel sheet.

After the pipe is led into the attic, a hole is made through the roofing pie. The waterproofing is cut in a "criss-cross" type. The resulting triangles are carefully wrapped and then fixed with a construction stapler. The opened crate is cut off, maintaining a distance to the chimney of more than 13 cm.

The right photo (red arrows) shows an incorrectly made pipe passage through the roof. The distance separating the pipe from the boards is made very small. With proper manufacture, the edges are upholstered with mineralite, the fire standard is maintained. The following photo shows the correct passage.

After the roof decking is done, the pipe is closed with a master flush. An appropriate skirt is made corresponding to the shape of the roof.

The junction of the pipe and rubber gaskets is treated with a heat-resistant sealant.

Sandwich modules must be tightened with clamps. The internal chimney can also be pulled together with their help.

Completion of installation

After assembly is completed, the protective film must be removed from the pipe. The length of the chimney is considered ideal, starting from the grate and ending with the head within 5–6 meters. This value should be given special attention. Then all gaps and existing seams are sealed.

The operation is performed with a heat-resistant sealant designed for treating chimneys. It is able to withstand heating pipes over 1000 degrees. Sealant processing is as follows:

• Internal pipes. The outer surface of the upper part is covered;
• External pipes. One outer surface is processed.

The junction of a double-walled pipe with other parts is processed only from the outside of the entire circumference;

The places where the modules and the single-wall pipe are combined are sealed according to the last option.

After completion of all work, it is imperative to check the condition of hazardous areas for temperature control.

To facilitate the maintenance of the chimney, a special revision is provided. This part has a removable part or is equipped with an opening having an opening door.

Typical mistakes

When a chimney is installed in a wooden house, fire safety must be strictly observed. It is very important to correctly make and process the passage of a sandwich pipe through floors made of wood.

These places must be well protected. Usually, sheet steel is used for this, in which holes are made. The free space is closed with non-flammable heat-insulating materials.

To facilitate the work, a special ready-made unit (PPU) is often installed. Its appearance is very similar to the box. Its installation is done to perform certain actions:

• If the house shrinks and deforms, the chimney must retain its original position;
• PPU protects wooden floors and does not allow them to ignite.

When work is being carried out to install a chimney, a passage is made with violation of ceilings and roofs, it is imperative to comply with all fire requirements.

The best option for laying a chimney is to install a special sandwich system.

All problems appear only if low-quality heat-insulating materials were used during installation.

For example, the installation of conventional general building insulation instead of a special non-combustible material.

Basalt wool is considered one of the options for such insulation.

Sometimes it is used incorrectly. This material is able to accumulate heat. If you simply wrap it around the chimney, then after 4 hours of operation, the insulation will begin to give back the accumulated heat. The chimney will start to overheat.

To prevent this from happening, you need to install a special steel sleeve. It should cover the cutting insulating layer. As thermal insulation, you can take superizol.

The sleeve should look like a cylinder. The height of the product must be equal to the thickness of the cut. The sleeve will not allow the temperature to rise, and will remove heat from the cutting.

It is very important that a micro-ventilation system be made around the sleeve, which is an air gap of small thickness - 3 mm. The air moving around the sleeve will cool it, resulting in a decrease in temperature.

Installing the sleeve will allow you to use the heater for a long time without possible overheating.

The passage of the chimney through the roof: its significance, options

Heating devices that provide a comfortable thermal regime in the house are a severe necessity. The explanation for this lies on the surface, in most regions of our country the winter period lasts about 9 months and that is why stoves, fireplaces, etc. are installed in many houses. But it must be remembered that such devices are a source of increased danger and cases when a fire occurs due to improper chimney design. Properly executed passage of the chimney through the roof will ensure maximum safety of the building.

What threatens the wrong chimney device?

Before running the chimney through the roof, the homeowner must understand what consequences he can expect if there are errors made at the design or direct installation stage.

If the pipe on the roof does not provide the necessary tightness, then the moisture that will accumulate there will sooner or later lead to the destruction of the brick chimney body. The presence of excess moisture in the chimney creates favorable conditions for the reproduction of mold and other harmful microorganisms. The ingress of water into the chimney leads to a decrease in the parameters of the insulation and after drying this material will never recover. In addition, as a result of errors made during the installation of the chimney, the rafters may also suffer. Since moisture that has entered the chimney can lead to the development of foci of decay on their surface. One of the most common mistakes in arranging the exit of the chimney is the presence of gaps, leading to a violation of the air movement inside the roof.

Only a small list of troubles is indicated that a homeowner who decides to independently carry out the passage of the chimney through the roof can expect. Therefore, it makes sense to invite specialists to perform such work, who can both choose the right place and decide which way the chimney pipe exits through the roof will be optimal.

How to choose a place for the output of the pipe

In order to perform the correct passage through the roof, it is necessary to observe a number of simple conditions defined by the rules. The chimney must be placed at a distance of 1 to 1.5 m from the top of the roof. The height of the pipe relative to the highest point should be between 0.5 and 1.5 m. The thrust will reach its maximum if the maximum allowable pipe height is used. In general, when determining the diameter and height of the pipe, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements that the manufacturer of the heating device determines.

The chimney on the roof is a set of pipes located in vertical and horizontal planes and drawn through the ceiling. In this case, the length of horizontal sections should not exceed 1 meter. The pipe outlet must be placed between the components of the truss system in such a way as to reduce the likelihood of a significant increase in the temperature of the surrounding elements. Otherwise, the prerequisites for the appearance of a fire source will be created.

Penetration for a chimney pipe - when is its device required?

The passage through the roof is performed in the following cases:

• construction of a new building;
• roof overhaul;
• arrangement of heating devices, including stoves, in the existing building.

During the construction of a new building, there are no difficulties with the arrangement of the chimney. All necessary solutions are laid down at the design stage. Questions about how to run the chimney through the roof begin to arise when the homeowner decides to install an additional heat source (fireplace, boiler, etc.). He must solve many issues related to the arrangement of hydraulic insulation and the implementation of measures related to ensuring the fire safety of the structure. Of course, he must know how to correctly bring the pipe to the roof.

By the way, as an option, some owners of suburban real estate equip chimneys passing along the walls of buildings with their own hands. This solution is acceptable if the installed thermal equipment runs on liquid fuel. Residents will be deprived of the opportunity to inhale fumes emanating from the fuel and its combustion products.

Consequences of going through the roof

The passage of the chimney through the roof must ensure fire safety. The gases generated during the combustion of fuel create a high temperature in the chimney, which can cause the roof elements to ignite. This is especially true for systems constructed from materials with low fire resistance. So, if the supporting system of the roof is made of wood, then it is necessary to mount an additional crate at the place where the pipe passes.

Considering that many roofing materials contain polymers that are not highly resistant to fire, the pipe must be protected by thermal insulation and the distance between it and the edge of the material that can catch fire must be at least 13 centimeters. If the pipe is not equipped with thermal insulation, then this distance should be increased to 30 cm.

The passage of the pipe through the roof violates the integrity of the coating, including layers of thermal and hydraulic insulation. If you do not provide high-quality cutting of the roof around it, then, most likely, the insulation will get wet, with all the ensuing consequences.

In addition to reducing the parameters of hydraulic and thermal insulation, there is a decrease in the strength of the truss structure. This can happen if the arrangement of the chimney is done by hand in an operated building.

Options for the passage of a brick chimney through the roof

There are several ways to bring the pipe through the roof. If the pipe is made of brick, then a hole must be made in the roof, the size of which should be 25 centimeters larger than the size of the chimney section. If the roofing material is not combustible, then this size can be reduced. The main thing is the correct passage of the chimney through the roof.

The passage through the roof, lined with tiles, is additionally equipped with an additional structure, consisting of rafters and battens. A non-combustible material must be laid between the chimney and wooden structures, as a rule, mineral wool is used for this. In addition, the wood used in the arrangement of the roof must be treated with compounds that prevent them from burning and rotting.

IMPORTANT! If, when arranging the chimney outlet, it rests against the ridge beam, then it must be cut, and the free ends should be installed on vertical racks.

On the roof, it is necessary to make a metal apron, which with one edge must be wound onto the chimney itself. And the other end should be hidden under the roofing material. This design is acceptable for chimneys located at a distance from the ridge. If the pipe is located in close proximity to the ridge beam, then a protective apron must be placed under it. At the same time, it must be fixed with fasteners and treated with a moisture-resistant sealing compound.

Wiring with elastic materials

As usual, during the construction of private houses, one has to deal with the installation of pipes made of metal. To ensure the tightness of the passage of the pipe through the roof, a device called elastic penetration is used. For the manufacture of this device, polymeric materials are used, for example, silicone or rubber. This detail is made in the form of a funnel, at the base of which a square or round flange is formed. The physical and technical properties of this part allow it to take the form that the slope forces it to take. In addition, the elastic penetration is resistant to high temperatures, chemically aggressive substances, etc. The use of various pigments in the manufacture of this part allows them to be produced in various colors.

When choosing an elastic penetration, the consumer should be guided by the diameter of the pipe and the color of the roof. Such details are in the form of a funnel or pyramid. They fit most chimney diameters through metal tiles and other materials.

The installation of this part is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to cut a hole in its body equal in size to the diameter of the pipe. Then it is necessary to put it on the pipe and, using a metal ring, in which holes for fasteners are made, fix it to the roof surface. Of course, the junction of the outlet must be treated with a flame-resistant sealant or a chimney roof sealant must be used. For roofs with a steep slope, specially made elastic cones are used. By the way, such details are used in the arrangement of the chimney through corrugated board.

metal pipe

On the construction market, you can find another version of these products, made from a metal sheet of alloy steel and designed to lead a chimney. Finished products, as a rule, are performed with a standard slope angle. They are used for roofs on which flat roofing material is laid. To install this part, it is necessary to cut a hole of the required shape in the surface of the roof. An angle grinder or roof shears can be used to make the hole. After that, it is necessary to remove layers of hydro and thermal insulation from it. On the reverse side of the roof, it is necessary to fix a sheet of fire-resistant material, in which a hole has already been made in advance.

Then, the chimney component must be inserted into the holes made, docked with the already installed chimney module. A clamp must be put on and tightened at the connection point. The outlet pipe must be installed on the chimney pipe and fixed on the slope surface. In this case, we must not forget to treat the junction with a sealant resistant to fire. After the last output segments are installed on the assembled connection, and their height is 0.5 - 1.5 meters, the work on creating the passage can be considered completed.

Rectangular pipe outlet

Stoves, fireplaces and some other heating systems most often have rectangular (square) chimneys. To correctly remove the chimney, you must perform the following operations.

As the chimney is brought to the roof, a hole is cut out in it, the dimensions of which should have an allowance of 2–5 cm, to the side of the hole. Through it, a conclusion to the roof will be made. The equipped passage must be lined with asbestos or mineral wool. For this, you can use asbestos sheets. They will protect the passage unit, for example, through an ondulin roof, from fire under the action of high temperatures emanating from the chimney. After the pipe is brought out into the street. Around its base, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing and close it with an apron made of bent aluminum sheet. These sheets are called additional elements, and they must match the color of the roofing material in color.

Lead box

Finishing the pipe on the roof can be done using a special box. The roof is made of several types of material, which have different resistance to flames. And therefore, for a safe output through a wooden wall, a special box is equipped on the roof. It is made of fire-resistant material with dimensions that must match the size of the chimney. The distance between the walls of the box and the outlet pipe of the chimney must be at least 15 cm.

After installing the box in its place, its upper edge is compared with the level of the roof slope. To increase its protective properties, expanded clay or similar material is poured into the space between the chimney and the box.